Optoma HD3000

[Fudoh]

The RGB inputs on the HD3000 won't sample in the neccessary 720x480p resolution, but in 640x480 only, so there's no point in doing that.

[SGGG2]

I'm using GSMode Selector to force "VGA 640x480".

[telemetry]

Adding to this thread, I had the pleasure of receiving one of the very-good condition units (mint in box?) from Ebay today and had quite a good time setting it up. Once I got it working, scaling on the PS2 and GameCube looked amazing with several 480i titles. The Wii is a bit of a wash, but that's what I expect from the Wii.

Unfortunately, then a rather odd thing happened -- I went out to dinner with my wife and unplugged the Optoma before I left (to be honest, I can't remember whether it was in standby or not).

Trying it again at home now, I'm not getting an HDMI signal on my television. Double-checked the cables and everything is attached correctly. The blue LED is shining on the front of the HD3000, but nothing is happening on the television. I've also tried the "slowly press Up to cycle resolutions" but that doesn't work either.

Have I prematurely broken my brand new scaler? Or is it just glitchy (as I've heard) and needs a reset? I'm not sure how to reset it blind though.

[SGGG2]

I don't think there's a way to do a blind reset. Try reseating all the cables after leaving it unplugged for a minute or two.

[telemetry]

Well, darn, after ten minutes I tried again and everything is working fine. Immediately did a factory reset just to be safe.

How temperamental! I love the scaling and deinterlacing quality, despite the bugginess.

[Thamiel]

Mine is quite finicky too. Nature of the beast I guess.

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

[telemetry]

I think someone mentioned earlier in the thread, power-cycling it once before use (right after plugging it in) seems to put everything in shape...otherwise the OSD menus may freeze or something else weird.

Maybe this improves with a firmware update? Mine is actually on C03, but sadly I don't have an older computer with an RS port, so I'll have to make due for now.

[telemetry]

After using a PC with RS232 to firmware update my projector-bundle HD3000, very happy with the 1080p scaling result. I think I may have gotten confused with the software update -- I used one of Fudoh's firmware links marked as C05, but the HD3000 reports version C04 after the installation. (Admittedly the link had multiple firmware files and exes within, and I might've installed the wrong one).

The Wii also looks better than I expected -- the previously noisy input now seems shaper, and better quality than my TV's internal scaler.

[telemetry]

Small addendum here: since I liked the sharpness of the Wii scaling result, I noticed while using Virtual Console that the Optoma also seems to recognize 240p output from VC titles (while running in 480i mode, it's been discussed that the Wii can output a 240p signal).

Of course the Optoma recognizes this incorrectly and tries to de-interlace it, but there is clearly a flash between the 480i Wii menu and the 240p VC game as the Optoma resyncs.

I am impressed at all that the Optoma is recognizing this in the first place. It recognizes the PS2 240p output in the same fashion, but from Fudoh's reviews and elsewhere it seemed only the PS2 was able to do this. I was surprised I could get the same effect with the Wii, even if it's more novelty than useful (running Wii at 480p for all general purposes), kinda makes me want to double-check other sources.

I would also mention that my Optoma did not handshake 240p signals at all (PS2 or otherwise) while it was on C03 firmware. 240p recognition (with 480i treatment) only started working after the C04 update.

[tongshadow]

Hey, sorry for reviving this thread but I've found an Optoma HD81 for a really low price and I'd like to know how it fares compared to the 3000.
It looks identical to the 3000 outside but has an extra RS-232 input in the back.

[Blair]

Hey, sorry for reviving this thread but I've found an Optoma HD81 for a really low price and I'd like to know how it fares compared to the 3000.
It looks identical to the 3000 outside but has an extra RS-232 input in the back.

I'll share what I've learned.

They should function exactly the same, the main difference is the HD81 has a few more options for controlling a projector system (heating up the lamp, key stoning, focus etc.) some other issues to think about, I know that some versions might not be user serviceable or upgradable. you want to make sure you can have relatively stable firmware. my HD3000 is listed as [HD3000-E C04 2006/10/11] hopefully you can find something comparable or later. (I also don't know if the firmware files are interchangeable, I would assume they probably aren't) if the firmware on the device is too old, your output could be locked at 720p instead of the full 1080p the unit is capable of.

since the unit's settings are optimized for older projectors a lot of people forget that gamma adjustment setting needs to be toned down to about -4 or -5 if you're going to hook it up to a decent modern HDTV. also the component inputs can be a little finicky and can show video noise (depending on the source) so its always better to use the BNC connectors on the back for both component (YUV) and RGBHV or RGBS sources.

remotes are also a bit rare for this device, so if anybody wants to help me map the remote codes so they cab be release to the public, send me a PM, as I think that would be good for the. community. (as of right now I haven't found any universal remote services that have compatibility with the device)

[tongshadow]

Hey, sorry for reviving this thread but I've found an Optoma HD81 for a really low price and I'd like to know how it fares compared to the 3000.
It looks identical to the 3000 outside but has an extra RS-232 input in the back.

I'll share what I've learned.

They should function exactly the same, the main difference is the HD81 has a few more options for controlling a projector system (heating up the lamp, key stoning, focus etc.) some other issues to think about, I know that some versions might not be user serviceable or upgradable. you want to make sure you can have relatively stable firmware. my HD3000 is listed as [HD3000-E C04 2006/10/11] hopefully you can find something comparable or later. (I also don't know if the firmware files are interchangeable, I would assume they probably aren't) if the firmware on the device is too old, your output could be locked at 720p instead of the full 1080p the unit is capable of.

since the unit's settings are optimized for older projectors a lot of people forget that gamma adjustment setting needs to be toned down to about -4 or -5 if you're going to hook it up to a decent modern HDTV. also the component inputs can be a little finicky and can show video noise (depending on the source) so its always better to use the BNC connectors on the back for both component (YUV) and RGBHV or RGBS sources.

remotes are also a bit rare for this device, so if anybody wants to help me map the remote codes so they cab be release to the public, send me a PM, as I think that would be good for the. community. (as of right now I haven't found any universal remote services that have compatibility with the device)

Thanks for the quick reply! Yea, I have no way to determine whether its 720p or 1080p, but it's definitely a deal breaker for me. Although, for the price (around... 50$?) it's really tempting to get yet another video processor. I already have a VP30 ABT 102 and an iScan HD (thats kinda useless right now), but apparently the Optima scales 480p much better than the DVDOs and I mainly play on my original Xbox and PS2, using component cables of course.

[Steamflogger Boss]

Hard to go wrong at $50. Even if it doesn't work for your needs you could probably quickly move on from it and not lose any money.

[tongshadow]

And what about updating the unit through the RS232 port? I managed to update my old DVDO VP30 with a RS232 to USB cable that uses a special chipset, but apparently it doesnt work at all for the Optoma?

[Fudoh]

And what about updating the unit through the RS232 port?

can be done. The HD3000 has two RS232 ports. On for communication on the back and one on board for updates.

[tongshadow]

And what about updating the unit through the RS232 port?

can be done. The HD3000 has two RS232 ports. On for communication on the back and one on board for updates.

Just to make sure we're on the same page, here's a picture of the model in question

[Fudoh]

The "standalone" HD3000 only have one RS232 on the back (they're missing the "to the projector" one), but I would still assume that they're identical otherwise except for the firmware. Many users updated their 720p only models successfully to full 1080p and it this price it would be stupid to pass on the unit.

[noonan2678]

Sorry for the offer in this post, but figured it relevant... I have an HD3000, basically brand new in the box. Message me if interested.

[tongshadow]

Ok just got my Optoma HD81 controller aaand, well, I knew it was a picky machine but not to the point that I cant even turn it on!
All it gives me is a blinking red light, power on button does nothing nor the remote. Maybe I just messed up the connections, do I need to loop the HDMI AV Out to AV In? I'm just using a component source.

I hope its not dead

[Blair]

sounds like it might be a sync or handshake issue, what's the component video source? (make sure it's not a PlayStation 2) usually want to start out with a 480p source when calibrating the Optoma.

the Power led should be a solid blue, if you're not seeing anything on the monitor could be because the output isn't set up properly. when you first turn on the unit try pressing the top silver button on the inner control panel every few seconds to see if you can get it to sync to a resolution supported by your display. then you can get into the menu options

I don't use the HDMI loop at all on my setup. I have HDMI output directly connected my television, and the HDMI input on the Optoma connected to a five port fossmon HDMI switch.

[tongshadow]

Source is an Xbox, and I'm not getting the blue led at all, its just red blinking all the time right after powering on.

[Blair]

here's a link to the user manual and service manual just in case you don't have them (http://www.filedropper.com/hd81documents)

so I have a few ideas/theories.

because it's a projector control box it might be set on a timer for 30+ seconds to heat up the lamp (the user manual says that there's pop up message). how long have you waited with the unit powered on to see if anything happens? ( according to the manual there should be a skip this step option but you can't see it, so you might have to click the middle button or one of the arrow keys off to the left or right to get that to work)

which HDMI out port are you connecting to your display? "HDMI To AV Receiver" or "HDMI From AV Receiver" ???

a red blinking light on the control box is "not" one of the documented error codes ( at least I didn't see it when I was reading through the manuals), but that is one of the documented error codes on the projection side (it's related to fan control) since the projector has its own indicator lights, I don't think that's what this code on the control box is indicating.

the unit might be waiting for a signal from the RS-232 reports about projector status, or some of the pins on the RS-232 ports might be bent or broken (might want to inspect this)

could be that it needs a factory reset (might have to do a blind button combination to achieve this, should be listed in one of the manuals)

it's possible we might have been wrong about the HD81 controller box being able to work as a stand-alone scaler like the HD3000 (even though it's the exact same hardware). it might not work without the connection of an RS-232 cable to something (like the projector). (or the firmware might need to be updated so it can work as an external unit without a projector) somebody probably has to contact Optoma to get this answer. (as I haven't been able to find any information on that question).

it's possible that it will only work without the projector connected in "service mode" (blind button combination to enter service mode should be in the service manual)

it's possible that the firmware might be corrupted and needs to be re-flashed (according to the service manual this can be done without the projector) but I think that's a long shot.

it's also possible that something entirely different could be wrong and that the unit just needs to be serviced by a technician. either way without more testing or more information from Optoma, the only other way you can learn more is by getting your hands on one of the projectors (the HD81 or HD81-LV) but I say we should probably get in contact with somebody that knows this device (like a representative from Optoma) or someone that has a confirmed functioning HD81 processor on hand to test without the projector.


***Edit***

ok, according to a user in this avsforum thread (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video- ... alone.html) projector bundled HD81 and HD3000 processors "are" locked to a projector (it's confirmed by the user that the processor light will flash/blink red with no connection to a projector, just like you described. so it looks like we are on the right track).

and (at the time the thread was posted) Optoma had released no official fix for this problem. (that might've changed, but somebody still probably has to contact them to find out) however the user in question found a way around this problem by using a PC and connecting to the serial port, he was able to send a signal tricking the processor into turning on without a projector. (see the thread for details)

(note on terminology: he refers to his "HD81 processor" as an "HD3000" and his projector as an HD81, semi-confusing I know).

Sorry for the semi cross-posting (I asked in the Projector session about the communcation between the HD81 and the HD3000 and posted my findings there). Anyways, here's the pertinent post that should help you use your bundled HD3000 processor as a standalone.

Ok, got everything working the way I want. I'll recap previous info plus add some new stuff.

Connect at 19200 baud, 8-n-1. You'll be plugging the serial cable to the port that says "To projector", NOT the one that says "For control". Might seen counter intuitive at first, but remember we're spoofing what the projector would send.

Keep sending *3001 (have to insert carriage return at end). Not sure exactly how often, but once every 100ms seems to be more than enough. Previous testing seems to suggest that it needs to be more often than 500ms, but I haven't played around with it too much.

When the HD3000 sees *3001, it will power itself up. I tested this by sending *3001 in a loop, unplugging the HD3000, then plugging it back up. Within seconds the power light turned blue, and in about a minute or so I had picture.

My linux box runs Slackware 12.0, so these instructions may be specific to my distro, though it should work on most distros out there.

You need to have a serial port. I used a usb-to-serial adapter. Once drivers were installed and /dev/ttyUSB0 was seen, I was good to go.

Set the serial port to 19200,8,n,1. Probably overkill, but the command I used was:

Code: Select all

stty -F /dev/ttyUSB0 raw speed 19200 -crtscts cs8 -parenb -cstopb

Call a script that sends *3001 (and carriage return) in a loop. I created a bash script called hd3000.sh. Here's the code:

Code: Select all

#!/bin/bash
while [ 1 ]
do
echo "*3001\
" >> /dev/ttyUSB0
sleep 0.1
done

Start everything in your startup scripts, reboot to test, and that's it. Now, this will keep your HD3000 on at all times. If this bothers you, and you want it automated, you can install a usb-to-ir receiver that'll receive the remote command you use to turn your projector/tv/whatever on and off (hopefully you have discrete codes). When it sees you're turning your tv on, it can start up the script that sends *3001. When you turn your tv off, it can simply stop the script (if you hate flashing lights, just start another script that'll send *3000 instead).

I'm using linux because I already have a linux box that's on 24/7. Windows will work fine too, in fact that's what I tested with. I used Eltima Serial Port Monitor. Once you get it setup, have it send "2a 33 30 30 31 0d" (minus quotes) as hex in a loop every 100ms. You need the pro version which cost $150 (standard doesn't come with the send option). I'm sure you could find a cheaper/free alternative, but this came with a 14-day trial and it worked for me, so there you go.

Hope this helps someone..

[tongshadow]

Wow thanks for all the help Blair! I have never heard about this even after reading this whole thread and some others in AVS, geez what a picky device.
Omg thats a lot of work but I can do it, I still have my serial to USB cable and basic programming isnt a problem for me.

At first I thought I had a broken unit because I remember someone on AVS mentioning the red blinking light means that, but it seems like there's some hope for me.
I'll test that method and see if I can at least turn the LED blue, that would be more than enough for me. Now, I just hope theres a way to make it completely indepedent from the projector.

And again, thanks for the help!

Also, about the connections which HDMI out should I use? To Projector or To AV Receiver?

[Fudoh]

"to the projector".

From the left to the right:

1-3 are inputs on the switch
4 is output from the switch
5 is input from the switch
6 is the processed output.

On the regular HD3000 unit, you simply connect the ports 4 and 5 using a short HDMI cable, if you want to use the built in HDMI switch.

[tongshadow]

Oook, so I bought a RS-232 cable to connect my USB-to-serial adapter to my computer and... a bunch of funny things happened.

1- I managed to get it on Stand-by (solid red LED) and even Power On with the blue LED! All I had to do was connect the serial cable from the VP's "To Projector" to my PC's USB. It looks like it really to detect *something* in the RS-232 Projector port. I didnt even need to send any commands through the serial port.

Now this is where things get weird.

2- After Power On and getting the blue LED, I still get no image and then the LED becomes solid red after exactly 45 seconds. During these 45 seconds it's completely unresponsive, it wont even Turn off by pressing the button.
I can Power on using the controller btw, so I'm sure it also works.

3- If I try to communicate with it through any Serial program (I use Teraterm), it returns to the Red Blinking LED.

Sooo... I might just be in the right path, but perhaps I really need to build a program so it can properly recognize the "Ghost Projector", or maybe it really works but I'm just doing something wrong during the power on sequence (where I get the blue LED).

What a piece of hardware... lol
Is there any way I can reset the unit? or maybe updating it? I also bought a serial PCI board just in case, would this work?


EDIT:
HDMI cable was faulty apparently, so I used another and I got a signal. But my monitor says it's "Out of Range", probably need to synch to a supported resolution.

[Blair]

And again, thanks for the help!

you're welcome! hopefully with enough information we can get that thing up and running!

EDIT:
HDMI cable was faulty apparently, so I used another and I got a signal. But my monitor says it's "Out of Range", probably need to synch to a supported resolution.

that's a very good sign, if you're able to get a solid blue light and the monitor is reacting then I bet you are pretty close to getting it working. (when my HD 3000 arrived I had a similar problem, my monitor wouldn't sync with it, after using the re-syncing procedure I haven't had a problem since. I always keep its output resolution set to 1080p60)

yeah, you definitely have to have quality HDMI cables for this stuff, (I know it's a bit controversial) the only HDMI cables I trust with my equipment right now are the Amazon basic cables, and the monoprice RedMere. (even the OSSC and VP50 have problems with cheaper/offbrand HDMI cables)

if you still don't have it working check out the re-syncing procedure in the manual and give it a shot on your monitor with the best cable you have, until you get a picture. (if all else fails try another pc monitor, or television). good luck!

here's another post by josetann with a few more bits of information on his process of discovery (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digita ... d3000.html)

[tongshadow]

Thanks again, plenty of useful information there but I'm afraid my quest for that sweet 480p scaling is over

Heres what happened. While I was trying to send different codes through RS232 (followed the same procedure as that guy on AVS) apparently one of the codes (I think it was *3002\) "bricked" the VP, now it wont do the power up sequence anymore, as soon as I hit the power button the blue LED immediately becomes red and it returns to stand by mode.

Before this we had similar symptoms, power up sequence (blue) for 45 secs then back to stand by mode (red).

Now, unless theres a code or someway to completely reset the machine to its former state, I think this is it...

Oh well, at least it wasnt that expensive but I still wanted to see that perfect progressive scaling

[tongshadow]

Since I'm completely out of options, I guess it wont hurt to try a Firmware upgrade (is it even possible with the device in Stand-by mode?)

Does anyone have links for the firmware?
Instructions would be appreciated too!

[Fudoh]

http://pms.hazard-city.de/HD3000.rar

[tongshadow]

Ok looks like I managed to get it to its former state by performing the upgrade mode reset (holding the left button while connecting it to the power), so thats good news

Now I have a few questions regarding the update since it apparently failed.

1- Which file is actually the Firmware, MCU BIOS or MCU FW(U126)? I know it may seem obvious, but there are separate updates for the Firmware and the MCU. It refers to one as "Link MCU Upgrade" and "BOX MCU Upgrade", which is which? Now it might be different for the HD3000 so
2- I'm following the HD81 service manual Blair has sent me (many thanks!) and one of the steps is: "Link PC and control box by pluging the RS232 cable to PC and “for control” port on the control box"
Yes, exactly written like that. Now, I thought I had to use the internal RS232 cable at all times, but apparently I need to disconnect it and plug it into the To Control external port? I need some clarification please.

I'm using a PCI Serial Card btw, I also have a FTDI chipset Serial to USB cable but apparently these dont work at all for updating right?
That's it for now, I hope I can get answers from more experienced users since I apparently getting pretty close to making this work