Questions that do not deserve a thread

[vol.2]

Will a PSone power supply work with a Genesis 2? The Genesis says 10v and the PSone PSU is 7.5v but apparently it gets stepped down to 5v inside the console anyway? I've read conflicting things on this so want to make absolutely sure, thanks. I know they're both center positive at least.

If they are the same polarity and both DC, then it shouldn't hurt to try it. If it doesn't work, it would be because the circuit is designed to have a minimum input voltage to produce the "step down" voltage. I did a quick check up on it, and it seems that the VR used requires a steady 7VDC to operate, so the PSOne supply is right at the limit. It's possible that the supply could drop down below 7VDC in normal usage and the console would cut out

that's why the OG supply is 10V, because you can't always count on a wall wart supply to be super steady. So you can try it, and it should work, but there's no guarantee that it won't cut out while you're playing something

[AaronSR]

Thanks. I know there was also that video posted awhile back on MLIG regarding the PS2 slim power supply which is 8.5v which probably would be better if I had one but I have a Triad for everything else so was just curious if this would work. If not I can get the reverse polarity adapter + 5.5x2.1>4.7x2.1 adapter.

[vol.2]

Thanks. I know there was also that video posted awhile back on MLIG regarding the PS2 slim power supply which is 8.5v which probably would be better if I had one but I have a Triad for everything else so was just curious if this would work. If not I can get the reverse polarity adapter + 5.5x2.1>4.7x2.1 adapter.

Yeah, like I said, it's kind of unclear if the PSOne supply would ever dip below 7VDC, but the datasheet of the voltage regulator inside the genesis 2 is pretty clear about it's absolute limits (7V).
Honestly, I would just go to a thrift store and look for a 9VDC power supply of sufficient current supply. They are super common and it shouldn't take too long to find one

[jd213]

Rondo also sells a Triad + Adapter for the Genesis 2 and several other Sega consoles:
https://rondoproducts.com/products/rond ... p%3A225192

[AaronSR]

Yeah I ordered the necessary adapters, thanks. I already had the triad but it would've just saved me buying these adapters had the PSone worked since its the only center positive console I have annoyingly.

[vol.2]

Seriously though, just as a general PSA, thrift stores and charity shops in the US are practically overflowing with old power supplies of good quality. 9VDC is an extremely common voltage, and you can find 3-4 amp units aplenty. In my area they put them in plastic bags and hang them on the walls, but I've seen smaller shops just dump them in bins.

Reversing the polarity of a power supply is as simple as cutting the cord and flipping the leads. I typically use solder and heat shrink and then I carefully label the wall wart with the "flipped" tip sleeve information. I have done this at least a dozen times for various Sony consumer electronics which were pretty consistently center negative in the 80s and early 90s.

[ldeveraux]

Seriously though, just as a general PSA, thrift stores and charity shops in the US are practically overflowing with old power supplies of good quality. 9VDC is an extremely common voltage, and you can find 3-4 amp units aplenty. In my area they put them in plastic bags and hang them on the walls, but I've seen smaller shops just dump them in bins.

Reversing the polarity of a power supply is as simple as cutting the cord and flipping the leads. I typically use solder and heat shrink and then I carefully label the wall wart with the "flipped" tip sleeve information. I have done this at least a dozen times for various Sony consumer electronics which were pretty consistently center negative in the 80s and early 90s.

You can also get polarity reversers on Amazon or any electronics retailer if you're not into cutting your cables. I have of course cut my own in the past!

[SavagePencil]

When I finish upgrading my video chain to 4K, will I need to replace my HDMI audio extractor to one that supports 4K, or will my old one continue to work?

[vol.2]

When I finish upgrading my video chain to 4K, will I need to replace my HDMI audio extractor to one that supports 4K, or will my old one continue to work?

probably will work, but it would case by case per the unit. unless someone has the exact same one as you and can confirm it works fine, I don't think you can be sure without actually trying it

[pedroTFP]

I'm looking for a wall mount for a 55" OLED that has both direction rotation (in order to play TATE) AND has and extensible arm too.
Do you have any link?

As an alternative, should I chain two wall mounts togheter?

[Rastan78]

Check out the ergotron HX

https://www.ergotron.com/en-us/products ... 20aluminum

[Dochartaigh]

I'm looking for a wall mount for a 55" OLED that has both direction rotation (in order to play TATE) AND has and extensible arm too.
Do you have any link?

As an alternative, should I chain two wall mounts togheter?

Check out the ergotron HX

https://www.ergotron.com/en-us/products ... 20aluminum

I would check out this one for $170 (less than HALF the price of the above). It's super heavy duty though... don't know if you were looking for something small or what... I bought it (have, but never used yet) because I wanted TATE for shmups, needed a huge VESA mounting size + needed the massive 200 pound limit for plasmas which are WAY heavier than modern TV's.

https://www.displays2go.com/P-28302/Swi ... 90-Screens

[vol.2]

I am wondering if having multiple displays on a PC will impact frame rate while playing a game on only one of them

I have three monitors hooked up (one is projector for watching movies on the wall) and I only would ever use one of them for gaming at a time. Is it hurting frame rates to just have the windows desktop up on the others?

[Kez]

I am wondering if having multiple displays on a PC will impact frame rate while playing a game on only one of them

I have three monitors hooked up (one is projector for watching movies on the wall) and I only would ever use one of them for gaming at a time. Is it hurting frame rates to just have the windows desktop up on the others?

No, any impact would be miniscule. One thing to watch out for is running background processes - especially web browsers. I have a habit of leaving multiple tabs with YT videos paused, and that uses so much RAM. When playing a game it's best to close pretty much every app that you can.

[SGGG2]

What’s the point of diminishing returns in terms of real world contrast for VA monitors without local dimming? Given the backlight has to light up the entire display during dark scenes. The only 32” 4K 120hz monitors with high contrast are the Samsung Neo G7 and 8, which are both expensive and have poor quality control

It probably makes sense just to wait at this point, AOC has 27” 1440p miniLED display for $280 and Samsung’s prepping the 2nd generation of QDOLED. Don’t suggest WOLED, I can’t use it.

[AaronSR]

Is there anywhere in the UK I can buy NTSC composite cables for an AV Famicom? I can only find PAL ones which apparently are different: https://www.reddit.com/r/Famicom/commen ... able_from/

I don't mind getting relatively cheap ones because I plan to get an NESRGB installed asap but until then composite will suffice.

[tongshadow]

What’s the point of diminishing returns in terms of real world contrast for VA monitors without local dimming? Given the backlight has to light up the entire display during dark scenes. The only 32” 4K 120hz monitors with high contrast are the Samsung Neo G7 and 8, which are both expensive and have poor quality control

It probably makes sense just to wait at this point, AOC has 27” 1440p miniLED display for $280 and Samsung’s prepping the 2nd generation of QDOLED. Don’t suggest WOLED, I can’t use it.

Pictures with close contrasting elements, like star fields, will destroy any miniLED because the clouding/halo'ing will be very obvious. While any self-emitting display will remain looking amazing.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtAivRxLFAg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jGtEqkenBg

[jd213]

Is there anywhere in the UK I can buy NTSC composite cables for an AV Famicom? I can only find PAL ones which apparently are different: https://www.reddit.com/r/Famicom/commen ... able_from/

I don't mind getting relatively cheap ones because I plan to get an NESRGB installed asap but until then composite will suffice.

Pretty sure composite video is the same in PAL territories, so any properly wired PAL or NTSC composite cable should work fine.
https://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:nintendomultiav
You'd only have to worry about certain RGB cables since CYSNC can use a different pin.

[DMC]

A beginner's question, the old "mame recording uploaded to youtube looks blurry-issue".
Here's my end result:
UPDATE I made a higher resolution render (4k lol) just to get the VP9 codec, so slightly better https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JV7R-aZgSjU

I tried to follow Emphatic's suggestion from many years ago.
1.Run MAME (Great Mahou Daisakusen) with record option in my cabinet pc -> inp file
2.Run MAME on my laptop with inp playback + avi write -> .avi file (about 30gb)
3. Use VirtualDub to resize the raw output to 3:4 @ 480x640 -> although I also compressed here Xvid MPEG-4, seems to look ok to me (8.6GB) [I know CPS2 games has a slightly different Aspect ratio but 3:4 is what I am used to.]

Then I used Davinci Resolve because I wanted to cut a few segments in the beginning and the end, and adjust the volume in some parts of the game.
Whenever I render stuff it looks very grainy and blurry, especially once it is uploaded to Youtube.

I suspect I mess up with upscaling or something rather than compression?
Timeline resolution and Format resolution is set to 480x640,
Output also 480x640.
Monitor, I'm not sure what this does but default is "HD 1080p 60", I cannot enter custom values here.
In Render, I've tried a lot of stuff, such as set restricted to bitrate to 30k, 60k. Resolution 480x640, 60 frames, not sure what keyframes does. Something simple I am missing, I usually don't care about image quality that much, but I thought this results was just below my threshold.

[AaronSR]

Pretty sure composite video is the same in PAL territories, so any properly wired PAL or NTSC composite cable should work fine.
https://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:nintendomultiav
You'd only have to worry about certain RGB cables since CYSNC can use a different pin.

Alright I bought literally the cheapest (new) cable I could find (£3) since they're only temporary and they work perfectly, thanks.

UPDATE I made a higher resolution render (4k lol) just to get the VP9 codec, so slightly better https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JV7R-aZgSjU

Yeah when it comes to youtube you really wanna upscale your stuff to get the better codecs (for VP9; 1440p will do it, not sure about AV1 unless you actually have to upload in AV1).

[vol.2]

What is this thing for? Just if you memory goes bad on a cart?

https://voultar.com/index.php?route=pro ... duct_id=76

[bobrocks95]

What is this thing for? Just if you memory goes bad on a cart?

https://voultar.com/index.php?route=pro ... duct_id=76

It's mainly for fan translations. So you keep the original cart mostly intact and plop a new ROM overtop. Definitely for a very particular kind of person. At the price, I'd rather just swap the whole board out and keep the original untouched: https://retrostage.net/?product=snes-blaster

[vol.2]

What is this thing for? Just if you memory goes bad on a cart?

https://voultar.com/index.php?route=pro ... duct_id=76

It's mainly for fan translations. So you keep the original cart mostly intact and plop a new ROM overtop. Definitely for a very particular kind of person. At the price, I'd rather just swap the whole board out and keep the original untouched: https://retrostage.net/?product=snes-blaster

Thanks

Hmmm. Then I guess you would put the new image on the memory after you solder it into place using some kind of cart dumper to interface with it?

[SGGG2]

Why are some of the blue MVS 161 in 1 carts going for as little as $10 and $20 on Aliexpress? The average price is closer to 50. EDIT: Never mind, that’s for the case only

[VEGETA]

I want to ask about power supplies... like the Triads... what is the amount of ripple and noise that is considered good? meaning how many mV p-p is it?

and for the triads, anyone has such measurements? any scope measurement figures?

[vol.2]

I want to ask about power supplies... like the Triads... what is the amount of ripple and noise that is considered good? meaning how many mV p-p is it?

and for the triads, anyone has such measurements? any scope measurement figures?

How good is good enough is really a case by case thing, but they are going to be better than OG equipment in most cases. You don't need to run tests, Triad PSUs have datasheets. go look at the product page and find the datasheet and read it. For example: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tr ... tHEA1nI%3D

But if that's not good enough for you and you really want to go overkill on it, look for supplies that are rated for medical use. They have stricter testing procedures for those as they have to be reliable in a life and death situation. Will cost you though.

[ASDR]

I want to ask about power supplies... like the Triads... what is the amount of ripple and noise that is considered good? meaning how many mV p-p is it?

and for the triads, anyone has such measurements? any scope measurement figures?

The issue I had when I looked into this is that it really needs to be specified more accurately than just a P2P figure. Noise measured at the barrel connector is of course vastly different than directly at the output with a ground spring on the probe. Many noise specifications list a 20Mhz BW cap, some don't say anything about BW. Some specify a specific load, others don't. How and under which circumstances you measure seems to influence the results about as much as the actual PSU.

[VEGETA]

I want to ask about power supplies... like the Triads... what is the amount of ripple and noise that is considered good? meaning how many mV p-p is it?

and for the triads, anyone has such measurements? any scope measurement figures?

How good is good enough is really a case by case thing, but they are going to be better than OG equipment in most cases. You don't need to run tests, Triad PSUs have datasheets. go look at the product page and find the datasheet and read it. For example: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tr ... tHEA1nI%3D

But if that's not good enough for you and you really want to go overkill on it, look for supplies that are rated for medical use. They have stricter testing procedures for those as they have to be reliable in a life and death situation. Will cost you though.

the one you linked has about 1.45v of ripple which is very bad, other Triads I saw has like 150mv which is also bad. thus, I wonder why people claim they are good. unless they consider 100mv is a good rating but honestly i don't think so. voltage signals are about 0.7 to 1v anyway.

The issue I had when I looked into this is that it really needs to be specified more accurately than just a P2P figure. Noise measured at the barrel connector is of course vastly different than directly at the output with a ground spring on the probe. Many noise specifications list a 20Mhz BW cap, some don't say anything about BW. Some specify a specific load, others don't. How and under which circumstances you measure seems to influence the results about as much as the actual PSU.

you can still do some easy and accurate measurements.

they way i do it is using the spring attachment to the scope which limits ground loop then measure the thing on pcb connector pins while managing my wiring (like not putting them near ac lines and so on). this gives accurate reading. people do faraday cages but this is overkill.

the next thing to test is full load test... meaning plug it in and run a heavy game, simple as that. a mistake is done by using pure resistive load since consoles are dynamic and sips power at 50 or 60 hz cycles which could give more ripple.

I designed my own dreamcast internal plug-and-play universal power supply and measurements at full load is about 20-30mv p-p total ripple figure while original PSU is about 70-90. my design uses a medical grade ac-dc module plus extra filtering before and after + extra protection before and after. I plan to release it after releasing my other product which is dreamcast battery mod board... therefore i try to see what people are thinking about such devices.

[VEGETA]

Hello

I need to extend my twin famicom original controllers, I could cut the wires from outside the console then do the extension but was looking for something more elegant if possible with proven wiring diagrams.

for your kind help

[ASDR]

Hello

I need to extend my twin famicom original controllers, I could cut the wires from outside the console then do the extension but was looking for something more elegant if possible with proven wiring diagrams.

for your kind help

You could just open up the controllers, desolder the wires and extend them with a new multicore lead and some heat shrink, that'd be rather easy to do and wouldn't require any knowledge or wiring diagrams. On the regular Famicom the controllers are not soldered in on the console side but connect to a header. If that's the case for the Twin Famicom as well you could make an extension cable for that. I personally would just leave the console untouched and use the extension port with a regular external Famicom controller. IIRC they're just regular DB-15 and a Neo Geo controller extension cable might work if they're still too short for you. If you need two controllers you can also get Famicom->2x NES adapters and use any pair of NES controllers with it.