Questions that do not deserve a thread

[ldeveraux]

You guys are the worst, thanks

[tongshadow]

You guys are the worst, thanks

You welcome.

[PhyChris]

has anyone tried to replace their OSD with a different one yet? blanking, I2c commands and all?
Just for fun.

Edit: like an FPGA or something else with RGB output for a custom UI

[ldeveraux]

What's the current best SCART switch we should be using? I have 4x Bandridge switches matrixed into another switch and I'm starting to see some video degradation. I already own all the cables and don't want to go full out composite on all my systems at this time. Is the GSCARTSW still recommended? I'd need 2 so would hope to not have to go that route as they aren't cheap. is the Hydra 2 Revised any good, it's considerably cheaper.

[vol.2]

has anyone tried to replace their OSD with a different one yet? blanking, I2c commands and all?
Just for fun.

Edit: like an FPGA or something else with RGB output for a custom UI

It's not unthinkable that someone here would do something like this, but it's not the most common subject on this forum. You would have more joy somewhere like hackaday.io or even on EEVblog forums. Something where general maker stuff or hardware hacking is the main focus rather than hardware as it relates to arcade cabinets and video game consoles and related. Most people hacking into an OSD on Shmups are doing so to inject an RGB signal for a better game quality game console input

[Dochartaigh]

What's the current best SCART switch we should be using? I have 4x Bandridge switches matrixed into another switch and I'm starting to see some video degradation. I already own all the cables and don't want to go full out composite on all my systems at this time. Is the GSCARTSW still recommended? I'd need 2 so would hope to not have to go that route as they aren't cheap. is the Hydra 2 Revised any good, it's considerably cheaper.

Best is still the old Extron Crosspoints, used on ebay. Professional grade equipment (mine was something like $44,000.00 USD back in the day...). You DO need adapters for your SCART which can add up... but if you do the math on something like the uber-expensive GSCART (which in my eyes it's exorbitantly priced, and a pretty cheap Crosspoint + Adapters, the last time I did that math (market may vary now) the Crosspoint was STILL cheaper than the gscart AND has a MASSIVE list of features the GSCART doesn't have (starting with the ability to lossless-switch everything: composite, s-video, RGBS, RGsB, Component, RGBHV/VGA, etc.).

[ldeveraux]

I don't really want to futz about with more adapters. With that said, apart from the GSCARTSW, are either the Hydra or ShinyBow or Gamescare still decent?

[PhyChris]

I have a JVC 32750 with a ta1242n jungle. I tried an RGB mux mod and ran into some trouble with triggering Blanking. Ys was working fine before I removed the PiP board but now after patching Ys over the PiP circuit the OSD still works but when I hit the switch it goes totally blank 'black screen' ...
When looking at the PiP board it seems the Ys was running through small 'buffer' circuit before it hits the jungle chip.

Symptoms:
Blanking Switch = OFF: RGB shows through OSD text like it did before I removed the PiP board and fed it an RGB signal. (seems normal)

Blanking Switch = ON: The screen goes totally black with no OSD or anything.

any idea on what i could try?

[vol.2]

any idea on what i could try?

best to post in the RGB Mod thread, or start your own thread: viewtopic.php?t=56155&start=5100

[PhyChris]

any idea on what i could try?

best to post in the RGB Mod thread, or start your own thread: viewtopic.php?t=56155&start=5100

Thanks again

[tisurame]

Does Extron RGB interfaces (like RGB 109xi) can also take "sync on luma" or "composite on sync" and output a clean sync?

[orange808]

Does Extron RGB interfaces (like RGB 109xi) can also take "sync on luma" or "composite on sync" and output a clean sync?

No.

[vol.2]

Okay this is probably a pretty dumb one, but I couldn't find a satisfactory answer from google.

What's the reason for using 75 Ohm BNC terminators VS just lowering the G2 and contrast on the set without them? If the monitor looks good and the color tracks perfectly without them, why bother?

[LDigital]

Okay this is probably a pretty dumb one, but I couldn't find a satisfactory answer from google.

What's the reason for using 75 Ohm BNC terminators VS just lowering the G2 and contrast on the set without them? If the monitor looks good and the color tracks perfectly without them, why bother?

I have wondered this too. On my BVM if I terminate then the brightness goes ridiculously low to the point that brightness needs to be pumped to max to compensate. This feels off to me so I leave them unterminated. Hopefully it’s not breaking anything

[Dochartaigh]

What's the reason for using 75 Ohm BNC terminators VS just lowering the G2 and contrast on the set without them? If the monitor looks good and the color tracks perfectly without them, why bother?

If you're talking about PVM's and BVM's, those are MEANT to be used with terminators. PVM's generally auto-terminate (inside circuitry, no external terminators needed); BVM's need external terminators by design.

I have wondered this too. On my BVM if I terminate then the brightness goes ridiculously low to the point that brightness needs to be pumped to max to compensate. This feels off to me so I leave them unterminated. Hopefully it’s not breaking anything

Something is wrong with your monitor if it isn't working properly with terminators. I would get it looked at by somebody since commonly if one thing is broken, it can also cause other things to break through time.

[vol.2]

If you're talking about PVM's and BVM's, those are MEANT to be used with terminators

Yes, I understand that some monitors are MEANT to be used with terminators. What I don't understand is why you have to.

I have a monitor that needs terminators, but I didn't realize it at first, so I just turned down the brightness and it was 100% fine. The color tracked perfectly in HCFR, and the gamma was spot on. I then put terminators on it, and I had to just turn up the G2 because the brightness went down.

So my question is, why does it matter? Is there some reason of wear on the electronics or something? If so, what could be damaged by running the G2 lower? And not that much lower as well, the difference in "correct" brightness with the terminators on and off is miniscule.

Obviously, there must be some reason that people do this, so I just want to understand why.

[Dochartaigh]

Yes, I understand that some monitors are MEANT to be used with terminators. What I don't understand is why you have to.

Totally making an educated guess here, but when you use the OUTput of the monitors, when you either manually remove the terminator (BVM), or the PVM does it automatically when you plug in the cable - it gives it a little more juice to get the signal over to the other monitor, via whatever length of cable you're using.

When it doesn't have to power the other monitors signal, if it was used without termination (either you didn't physically put one on, or the PVM's auto-terminating isn't working right), the signal is then too high (bright) on your monitor.

Why PVM's are auto-terminating, and BVM's require a manual one, guessing again, but probably something that the built-in termination circuit on the PVM doesn't give quite a perfect 1:1 signal to the other daisy-chained monitor (maybe 0.98:1 lol)... and on BVM's they wanted that feature to be PERFECT... and found a simple external terminator worked better on the BVM's (giving true 1:1 hopefully), so that's what they used since BVM's ARE master monitors, and expected to outperform all others.

[vol.2]

When it doesn't have to power the other monitors signal, if it was used without termination (either you didn't physically put one on, or the PVM's auto-terminating isn't working right), the signal is then too high (bright) on your monitor.

I sort of suspect this. In which case, simply turning down the brightness a little is absolutely fine and give identical results. I think it's probably just a feature for the broadcast environment that enables simplification of daisy-chaining with respect to signal levels. If you are only ever going to operate a monitor in isolation, I think it probably makes zero difference if you use a terminator or not, as long as you turn it down a little

But idk, I'm still willing to hear anyone who thinks there's another reason.

[vol.2]

Okay, I asked on another forum and a broadcast engineer gave me a good answer.

If you don't terminate, the signal will be reflected from the monitor input back towards the source. If the source has a good, accurate 75 ohm impedance it will absorb that reflection and no harm is done. Otherwise part or all of the signal will be reflected back towards the monitor. Depending on cable length this can cause frequency response errors or possibly ghost images.

In practice, it's often not a problem if a monitor is left unterminated. The frequency response errors and ghost images will often be negligible. Most monitors will tolerate excess video amplitude. There's no question of stressing or harming a monitor with 2Vp-p of video. But just because you can often get away without terminating doesn't make it right.

So, it's not really a huge issue if you leave them off, but you might end up seeing ghosting or frequency response errors if you are using a source without proper 75 ohm impedance. Essentially, it generally doesn't matter. Putting the 75 ohm terminators is more or less a redundancy to eliminate any chances of reflection. So in that regards, it's best to do it just to be safe, especially if you don't know what's going on with your sources.

[tisurame]

Does any knows if a matrix VGA switcher from Kramer accepts "sync on luma" or "sync on composite" on the sync input/outputs?

I know Extron switchers needs clean sync, but I'm not sure about Kramer.

[wwse]

HDfury Nano GX if somebody wants it in Germany
55€
https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/ ... 5-175-3902

[VEGETA]

I tore down my twin famicom player 1 controller, see images here: https://imgur.com/a/mHq4r01

it has some resistors inside and i measured them to be like this:

r3 47k
r5 220 from red to chip pin 3 (qd ??)
r2 220 from yellow to chip pin 9 (p/s)
r4 1k
r1 251k


green wire -> vcc
brown wire -> gnd


I plan to do good controller extension by using JST connectors like those: https://mikroelectron.com/Product/1-Set ... -Pin-Pitch

since internally it uses those standard ones.... mere 15-20 cm extension is good enough for me and won't change the look and feel of the console.

I wonder if I would need to worry about adding resistance to the pads since i really don't like to do that and start guessing wire colors...etc.. such small distance is doable i guess, plus my controllers do have resistors as mentioned above.

[vol.2]

I wonder if I would need to worry about adding resistance to the pads since i really don't like to do that and start guessing wire colors...etc.. such small distance is doable i guess, plus my controllers do have resistors as mentioned above.

I don't think it'll make any real difference. The buttons are all on the other side of a shift register from the cable anyways. If changing the length or characteristics of the cable itself effect the impedance, it will only impact the termination, and I would seriously doubt that the console would not be tolerant of the difference.

I would just try it and if you have issues worry about it later. You will most likely not have any

[pedroTFP]

I'm constantly browsing local flea markets in search for CRTs to add to my collection.
How do I know for sure if, let's say, a certain Trinitron set is 50hz or 100hz? I look on service manuals but can't find the info, nor in the user manual.

[VEGETA]

want to ask you, is saturn type b and type c power supplies can fit interchangeably?

i know they are of different voltages but for now i just want to know if they fit since output connector seems off in type b meaning the connector is on a different place.

[Marc]

Trying to connect an OG Bbix to an HDTV bef9re I end up buying a CRT I have no room for.....
Looks like washed out shit with the powered HDMI adaptor I'm using. I've seen similar boxes that accept the composite cables from the Xbix rather than just plugging directly in, is this likely to be much of a jump, or am I just wasting mire time and money.

[pedroTFP]

To my best knowledge, this is the best adapter you can get: https://electron-shepherd.com/collectio ... ectronxout
Much much better than the cheap crap you can find on AMZ and such.

[vol.2]

Trying to connect an OG Bbix to an HDTV bef9re I end up buying a CRT I have no room for.....
Looks like washed out shit with the powered HDMI adaptor I'm using. I've seen similar boxes that accept the composite cables from the Xbix rather than just plugging directly in, is this likely to be much of a jump, or am I just wasting mire time and money.

Xbox? This thing works well, but they are in between batches right now, not sure about their restock.

Or you can obviously just buy the component video cable and then use an upscaler to attach it to your HDTV. You would want something that can take a 480p input like the Retrotink 5X

However, you may get sufficient quality out of just using the component cables if you HDTV has a component input because the XBOX can do 480p (so it doesn't need to be deinterlaced) for almost the entire catalog. It would depend on how well your HDTV does line doubling and how picky you are about the results

[Marc]

Trying to connect an OG Bbix to an HDTV bef9re I end up buying a CRT I have no room for.....
Looks like washed out shit with the powered HDMI adaptor I'm using. I've seen similar boxes that accept the composite cables from the Xbix rather than just plugging directly in, is this likely to be much of a jump, or am I just wasting mire time and money.

Xbox? This thing works well, but they are in between batches right now, not sure about their restock.

Or you can obviously just buy the component video cable and then use an upscaler to attach it to your HDTV. You would want something that can take a 480p input like the Retrotink 5X

However, you may get sufficient quality out of just using the component cables if you HDTV has a component input because the XBOX can do 480p (so it doesn't need to be deinterlaced) for almost the entire catalog. It would depend on how well your HDTV does line doubling and how picky you are about the results

No component, HDMI only, shame as it looked spectacular on my old HDTV. I actually did a side by side of OutRun 2 via component, BC X360 HDMI, and Online Arcade, and there was something pleasingly chunky about the component in comparison. I've ordered a cheap scaler box, fingers crossed.

[vol.2]

No component, HDMI only, shame as it looked spectacular on my old HDTV. I actually did a side by side of OutRun 2 via component, BC X360 HDMI, and Online Arcade, and there was something pleasingly chunky about the component in comparison. I've ordered a cheap scaler box, fingers crossed.

If the upscaler uses the component input, you can at least take advantage of the 480p output. Usually the worst aspect of the cheapo scalers is the bad deinterlacing and lag introduced because of it. Also the composite output is going to have crappy color fringing and other artifacts that have to be filtered.