thanks. i was quickly suspecting this. unfortunate.Fudoh wrote:as far as I know you're out of luck using intel graphics.
Questions that do not deserve a thread
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
are you using an rgb output pcb? i was under the impression that they don't do well out-of-the-box and need something like this https://videogameperfection.com/product ... -4-1b-vgp/H6rdc0re wrote:I have horizontal line and color bleeding on one of my SNES JRs. I have already swapped all capacitors, the 7805, C11 swap, a new fuse and tried a different power supply, RGB Scart cable and display. Does anyone have any ideas what I can still check out?
it works well for me.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I'm having a pretty hard time finding any input lag data on 1440p/144Hz monitors. Did DisplayLag.com just drop off after 1080p became old news?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Yep I’m using that VGP RGB Mod.vol.2 wrote:are you using an rgb output pcb? i was under the impression that they don't do well out-of-the-box and need something like this https://videogameperfection.com/product ... -4-1b-vgp/H6rdc0re wrote:I have horizontal line and color bleeding on one of my SNES JRs. I have already swapped all capacitors, the 7805, C11 swap, a new fuse and tried a different power supply, RGB Scart cable and display. Does anyone have any ideas what I can still check out?
it works well for me.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Did you check the RGB cable for components? Sometimes they have extra caps in them. Maybe could be effecting things? That's about the only thing I can think of. If you checked all the resistors values for the snes jr as stated on the vgp page and you read borti's page and followed all advice, you need a specialist.H6rdc0re wrote: Yep I’m using that VGP RGB Mod.
This thread viewtopic.php?f=6&t=58863
might contain a clue, i would say post there and maybe there's an answer
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I'm looking for a tidy way to extend an s-video input. On my CRT, the only s-video input is on the back, so it's kind of a pain to use. I'd like to extend that (with audio) out to the front, preferably with a little box that I can plug consoles into when I want to use them (I normally would not have anything plugged in). For that, seems like I'd be looking at a switcher even though I don't need the switching functionality. Any suggestions on a decent quality one that has an input on the front? Otherwise I guess I could make a little box with wires coming out the back, but... laziness.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I did this a couple years ago so I could connect S-Video and composite sources to an RGB/YPbPr decoder that also had its inputs on the back. Looks weren't super important to me, so I ended up using some ~3-foot RCA and S-Video cables, along with female-to-female adapters for each, then the adapters were all bound together with Velcro cable ties to keep them all together. The bundle came around to the front of my setup for easy access. Like I said, it wasn't pretty, but it was functional.thebigcheese wrote:I'm looking for a tidy way to extend an s-video input. On my CRT, the only s-video input is on the back, so it's kind of a pain to use. I'd like to extend that (with audio) out to the front, preferably with a little box that I can plug consoles into when I want to use them (I normally would not have anything plugged in). For that, seems like I'd be looking at a switcher even though I don't need the switching functionality. Any suggestions on a decent quality one that has an input on the front? Otherwise I guess I could make a little box with wires coming out the back, but... laziness.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I have observed that video signal convertors seem to 'choke' when the image becomes white, like when something explodes or a magical effect. They stop outputting a signal while this happens. Why is that? I observed it years ago with a component to VGA converter, and have seen it happen today with a HDMI to VGA converter. The former was powered, while the latter is probably passively powered by the HDMI input.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/The ... _259979856
This is a scanline of all white.
Normally, the video chip locks on to the horizontal sync falling edge, but in cases of sudden dark to white transitions, there is a large voltage swing.
If the signal is not adequately filtered and conditioned, the chip can loose a few of these falling edges, and that causes the dropout.
The problem is well known, and several solutions are usually employed. Yet it still can fail, if the sync signal just isn't clear enough at all times.
This is a scanline of all white.
Normally, the video chip locks on to the horizontal sync falling edge, but in cases of sudden dark to white transitions, there is a large voltage swing.
If the signal is not adequately filtered and conditioned, the chip can loose a few of these falling edges, and that causes the dropout.
The problem is well known, and several solutions are usually employed. Yet it still can fail, if the sync signal just isn't clear enough at all times.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Considering that the HDMI to VGA converter seems to be some unbranded Chinese thing, and that the transition wasn't sudden, it probably doesn't employ any solutions. I wonder if branded converters like HD Fury, Tendak and Portta fare any better.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I'm still terrible with audio gear. Need to get a stereo amp because my display's internal amp is busted. What kind of connector do I need? Is this a port for a common headphone plug or something else? Checking on the monitor itself is a real pain since I'd need to have someone help me move it and replug everything.
blog - scores - collection
Don't worry about it. You can travel from the Milky Way to Andromeda and back 1500 times before the sun explodes.
Don't worry about it. You can travel from the Milky Way to Andromeda and back 1500 times before the sun explodes.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Can't be 100% sure from the pic but very likely to be a standard 3.5mm audio jack (i.e. a headphone jack). You should be able to just use any pair of headphones to confirm.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
If you get a cheap stereo av receiver from like goodwill, they'll need RCA in, so the likely cable will be a male 3.5mm headphone to male RCA red/white.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I happened to find it on Amazon. The brand seems to be Chnano. Chinese nano? Don't seem to have a website, though.BenoitRen wrote:the HDMI to VGA converter seems to be some unbranded Chinese thing
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HDgaming42
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Trying to aquire a Super Famicom 1-chip for a reasonable price. There's a seller who's listed:
Nintendo Super FamiCom SFC Console Good Condition Tested Boxed PA1
I can find no reference to what "PA1" might mean. I'm afraid it's a mispelling of PAL (I'm ebay paranoid), but that couldn't be the case with nothing but Japanese writing all over the console, correct?
This serial would seem to fall within the range of 1-chip units, would it not? I know there are no guarentees, but I doubt the seller is keen on opening the unit to confirm. Waiting to hear back...
https://superfamicom.org/console-serial-database
Thanks!
Nintendo Super FamiCom SFC Console Good Condition Tested Boxed PA1
I can find no reference to what "PA1" might mean. I'm afraid it's a mispelling of PAL (I'm ebay paranoid), but that couldn't be the case with nothing but Japanese writing all over the console, correct?
This serial would seem to fall within the range of 1-chip units, would it not? I know there are no guarentees, but I doubt the seller is keen on opening the unit to confirm. Waiting to hear back...
https://superfamicom.org/console-serial-database
Thanks!
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
not sure if it's the case here, but I've noticed a trend of asian ebay sellers putting seemingly nonsensical 2-3 character alphanumeric codes at the end of their listingsHDgaming42 wrote:Trying to aquire a Super Famicom 1-chip for a reasonable price. There's a seller who's listed:
Nintendo Super FamiCom SFC Console Good Condition Tested Boxed PA1
I can find no reference to what "PA1" might mean. I'm afraid it's a mispelling of PAL (I'm ebay paranoid), but that couldn't be the case with nothing but Japanese writing all over the console, correct?
This serial would seem to fall within the range of 1-chip units, would it not? I know there are no guarentees, but I doubt the seller is keen on opening the unit to confirm. Waiting to hear back...
https://superfamicom.org/console-serial-database
Thanks!
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The PA1 is certainly just an identifier for the seller.
BUT that serial certainly is NOT a 1CHIP SFC. Japanese 1CHIP units have a S249 or S25 at the start of their serial number. Even S248 units are confirmed to be no 1CHIP units yet.
BUT that serial certainly is NOT a 1CHIP SFC. Japanese 1CHIP units have a S249 or S25 at the start of their serial number. Even S248 units are confirmed to be no 1CHIP units yet.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The HDMI to VGA should definitely not have issues like that.BenoitRen wrote:Considering that the HDMI to VGA converter seems to be some unbranded Chinese thing, and that the transition wasn't sudden, it probably doesn't employ any solutions. I wonder if branded converters like HD Fury, Tendak and Portta fare any better.
If you loose picture by the HDMI source showing a white image, the device is probably faulty (or underpowered).
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HDgaming42
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I clearly have no idea how to interpret that serial # database data...Fudoh wrote:The PA1 is certainly just an identifier for the seller.
BUT that serial certainly is NOT a 1CHIP SFC. Japanese 1CHIP units have a S249 or S25 at the start of their serial number. Even S248 units are confirmed to be no 1CHIP units yet.
Does the CPU/PPU1/PPU2 combination have to read 2/1/3? It seems like 0/0/0 is the only other entry (more likely the default and simply not provided). I don't see any pattern whatsoever on that site between SFC serials between the cutoffs you've mentioned...
How is one to determine which ones are 1-chip? Is there an alternate resource?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
me neither, just use this one:I clearly have no idea how to interpret that serial # database data...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/ ... utput=html
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Any PS2 experts here?
I haven't played PS2 for a long while, but has it always have noisy picture? I'm playing through RGB, using Retro-Access BNC cables, to a PVM, with the PS2 modded for CSync (with C300PSI's mod), and I'm getting a lot of horizontal noise. (Yes, I've tried multiple cables as well). It's really noticeable on the save screen for Persona 4, especially when I turn my PVM into Blue-only mode. I can see the noise through the OSSC as well, but at least I can turn on the LPF to help a bit. Is the PS2 just always like that and I've never noticed?
I haven't played PS2 for a long while, but has it always have noisy picture? I'm playing through RGB, using Retro-Access BNC cables, to a PVM, with the PS2 modded for CSync (with C300PSI's mod), and I'm getting a lot of horizontal noise. (Yes, I've tried multiple cables as well). It's really noticeable on the save screen for Persona 4, especially when I turn my PVM into Blue-only mode. I can see the noise through the OSSC as well, but at least I can turn on the LPF to help a bit. Is the PS2 just always like that and I've never noticed?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I'm not familiar with the csync mod, but I have 3 or 4 modded PS2's with HDD's, using a variety of RGB SCART (with and without sync stripper), Sony OEM Component, HD Retrovision component cables, etc. and they're all very clean video output. I have a feeling it's your individual PS2 and/or cable and/or the mod itself.lechu wrote:Any PS2 experts here?
I haven't played PS2 for a long while, but has it always have noisy picture? I'm playing through RGB, using Retro-Access BNC cables, to a PVM, with the PS2 modded for CSync (with C300PSI's mod), and I'm getting a lot of horizontal noise. (Yes, I've tried multiple cables as well). It's really noticeable on the save screen for Persona 4, especially when I turn my PVM into Blue-only mode. I can see the noise through the OSSC as well, but at least I can turn on the LPF to help a bit. Is the PS2 just always like that and I've never noticed?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
my understanding is that, when the PS2 is in RGB mode, anything 480p/1080i is output with SoG (csync and luma are disabled). the csync mod is supposed to create support for csync in those modes for ppl that have 480p PVMs (or PC monitors).Dochartaigh wrote:
I'm not familiar with the csync mod
i agree that my stock PS2 is sharp as a tack and it's either OPs particular unit or a problem with the mod.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Kez wrote:Can't be 100% sure from the pic but very likely to be a standard 3.5mm audio jack (i.e. a headphone jack). You should be able to just use any pair of headphones to confirm.
Yeah it's a standard 3.5mm audio plug. Had the right cables lying around. Thanks guysEinzelherz wrote:If you get a cheap stereo av receiver from like goodwill, they'll need RCA in, so the likely cable will be a male 3.5mm headphone to male RCA red/white.
blog - scores - collection
Don't worry about it. You can travel from the Milky Way to Andromeda and back 1500 times before the sun explodes.
Don't worry about it. You can travel from the Milky Way to Andromeda and back 1500 times before the sun explodes.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
When connecting to a monitor that takes YPbPr over its VGA input, is there any disadvantage of using a 4BNC/5BNC to DSub 15 adapter instead of a 3RCA to DSub15 adapter? I want to connect a component video source to my monitor and I have a lot of 4/5BNC to DSub15 adapters lying around, and I’m worried that the cheap 3RCA to DSub15 adapters I see online could hurt the image quality.
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
no harm in thatdiamondtron wrote:When connecting to a monitor that takes YPbPr over its VGA input, is there any disadvantage of using a 4BNC/5BNC to DSub 15 adapter instead of a 3RCA to DSub15 adapter? I want to connect a component video source to my monitor and I have a lot of 4/5BNC to DSub15 adapters lying around, and I’m worried that the cheap 3RCA to DSub15 adapters I see online could hurt the image quality.
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MysticSynergy
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Question - I'd like to use my PS4 on a Sony BVM 201FU. Been doing some research but wanted to ask the experts here to make sure I've got it all sorted or correct.
My chain would (theoretically) be as follows: PS4 in safe mode > HDMI to VGA Tendak converter > VGA input via Extron 160xi > BNC output from Extron as RGBs to Sony BVM.
Would this work? What do I need to use for the Sync output? Just a regular yellow composite cable with BNC? Still need to figure out audio too.
I know this is entirely unnecessary but I think it would be fun to play the new MegaMan Zero/ZX Collection on the PS4
Any tips / suggestions?
My chain would (theoretically) be as follows: PS4 in safe mode > HDMI to VGA Tendak converter > VGA input via Extron 160xi > BNC output from Extron as RGBs to Sony BVM.
Would this work? What do I need to use for the Sync output? Just a regular yellow composite cable with BNC? Still need to figure out audio too.
I know this is entirely unnecessary but I think it would be fun to play the new MegaMan Zero/ZX Collection on the PS4
Any tips / suggestions?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
That chain sounds like it should work fine. Regarding wiring of sync, any BNC cable should work fine.MysticSynergy wrote:Question - I'd like to use my PS4 on a Sony BVM 201FU. Been doing some research but wanted to ask the experts here to make sure I've got it all sorted or correct.
My chain would (theoretically) be as follows: PS4 in safe mode > HDMI to VGA Tendak converter > VGA input via Extron 160xi > BNC output from Extron as RGBs to Sony BVM.
Would this work? What do I need to use for the Sync output? Just a regular yellow composite cable with BNC? Still need to figure out audio too.
I know this is entirely unnecessary but I think it would be fun to play the new MegaMan Zero/ZX Collection on the PS4
Any tips / suggestions?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
will someone be able to reply asap please
i bought a JP 360 (arcade model) but it is without a power supply. i am in north america. can i just go grab a north american arcade power supply to use on the JP 360 or will it damage the console?
i bought a JP 360 (arcade model) but it is without a power supply. i am in north america. can i just go grab a north american arcade power supply to use on the JP 360 or will it damage the console?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Please check the stickied NTSC-J Xbox 360 owner's manual.