Reminder: Check your Varta batteries

[STG]

Sorry for the old bump (well actually I'm not) .

Well, I'm certainly glad you bumped this as I didn't know about the Varta battery situation, so thanks!

I got an original revision Ketsui (plays perfectly) and I'd like to replace the battery as it's looking a little fuzzy on the negative side. No acid leaking through the board thankfully, but I'll give it a clean. Is there any exact procedure here that I need to follow to do this myself? I just desolder the old battery, solder a new one in, turn the game on and I'm good to go?

And just in case I need to, what's the best solution to clean acid off the board?

It looks like this site here has the battery, it appears identical:
http://www.tnrbattery.com/varta-3-v80h- ... nimh-pack/

Thanks for any help guys, I appreciate it!

[Coryoon]

Where could I get a chip that has been pre-loaded with the fixed file?

http://hobbyroms.com/

Cool!

Cheers for that!!

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STG, I hope someone will clarify your questions. I'm a novice so I am reluctant to comment at all, and don't take what I say as any authority.

With that in mind;

From what I have read, I understand that it is a straightforward swap.

As for the clean up info, I think there was a link earlier in the thread to a post at arcade-otaku about the correct neutralising agent, I think you have to identify the agent in the battery first.

I am just mentioning what I read here and there, so hopefully someone more qualified can provide some assurances.

[potiron]

"RESOURCE ERROR: MEMORY NODE USE"

I get this in the test menu, guess I'm screwed

Just to know if someone found an issue to this problems?

I had doubted SRAM error but after I tested SRAM with a logic analyzer, I concluded that the SRAM was fine.

I guessed that this error was caused by a glitch of a custom chip which decodes encrypted ROM data.

Someone to confirm?

Thanks

[Dave_K.]

Despite clipping the battery off my DDPDOJ PCB almost 7 years ago (and starting this very thread), my DOJ had finally succumbed to battery acid death. Either I didn't do as good a job as I thought cleaning the residue off the board, or the damage was already done, and just needed time to eat its way into traces and components.

This is what the game would boot into:


After a visual inspection, I found the culprit at U13. A badly corroded HD74HC132P with additional trace corrosion.


I've gone ahead and removed the chip, but confirmed the traces are broken, so need to devise some kind of jumper and hope this resolves it.

[Monstermug]

Sad news about your DOJ. I saw this on youtube once. Never tried it before but it looks like a neat and tidy fix.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozH2F3AX8BY

[Dave_K.]

Thanks, great video! I don't have all the tools required for such a fix, but will likely just try to use some thin gague wire wrap to jumper around the break. Soldering to traces or very small connector holes will be my biggest challenge.

[geekmiki]

The question about the CR2450 on CV1000 boards has already been posted on this thread, but never answered. So I'm trying again...
Can CR2450 batteries on CV1000 boards leak? Since they power the RTC, is there any point in keeping them there?

[rtw]

The question about the CR2450 on CV1000 boards has already been posted on this thread, but never answered. So I'm trying again...
Can CR2450 batteries on CV1000 boards leak? Since they power the RTC, is there any point in keeping them there?

The RTC is not needed unless you want a correct clock in Ibara/Ibara Kuro. I run mine without battery.