CPS2 Fan Noise

antron · Post by **antron** » Sun May 18, 2008 2:33 pm

What's the best solution?

Some people tell me to disable it and then just don't run it too long.
Some say don't do that.

Can I slow it down? If so, what value/rating resistor do I need?

Can I replace it? If so, with what? From where?

Thanks

Hewitson · Post by **Hewitson** » Sun May 18, 2008 4:46 pm

Firstly, anyone who says to disable it and not run it for too long is an idiot. Yes you can slow it down with a resistor, but using a voltage regulator to lower the 12v to 5v or 9v would be better.

Replacing the fan with a fan of the same type would be your best option. They will be available from any decent electronics supplier.

dpful · Post by **dpful** » Sun May 18, 2008 8:14 pm

Rather than a resistor, use a little pot, turn it on and set it to the right speed, then chuck the pot in that cavity next to the fan and close the board (especially with a pcb mount pot. With a big pot, maybe have it poke out through a hole). While you've got the soldering iron on, make some nicks or holes for the wires or pot to pass through.
I don't know the value to use, unfortunately. Crappy values will work, but the sweet spot will get pretty small.

If you want to go crazy, ditch the fan and drill holes all over the case

Ozymandiaz1260 · Post by **Ozymandiaz1260** » Sun May 18, 2008 10:46 pm

dpful wrote:If you want to go crazy, ditch the fan and drill holes all over the case

Yeah, just don't expect to ever be able to resell it

thchardcore · Post by **thchardcore** » Sun May 18, 2008 11:19 pm

Unless you run it for 5+ hours, you don't really need the fan.

oxtsu · Post by **oxtsu** » Sun May 18, 2008 11:52 pm

^ I have to say I disagree. I've tried and it gets pretty damn hot after even 30 minutes. That said, I don't think we need the amount of airflow generated from the stock fan.

antron wrote:What's the best solution?

Replace with Papst 612FL.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... DPjQ%3D%3D
http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/std/sku=papst_60mm

Putting a 1/2W 56ohm resistor on the stock fan will work adequately (takes it down to about 7.5V, which is within spec), though it's not going to be near as quiet as the 612FL.

As far adding a pot to the fan or drilling holes, I wouldn't do any mods to the case unless there were no other options. I also wouldn't ditch the case and run fanless. CPS2 is unwieldy enough as it is.

D · Post by D » Mon May 19, 2008 9:27 am

01 Buy a cabinet. Put it in the cabinet.
02 Put amplifier in the cabinet as well. Turn up the base.
03 Instead of having it just powered up, actually play the game!

You might consider instead of opening it, to slightly obstruct the vent holes with stickers or tape. Less noise will come from the fan! Use at your own risk though!

antron · Post by **antron** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:04 pm

I went with the Papst 612FL. Couldn't be happier. Thanks

MKL · Post by **MKL** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:30 pm

oxtsu wrote:I also wouldn't ditch the case and run fanless. CPS2 is unwieldy enough as it is.

Not sure how it would get more unwieldy than say CPS1 boards. This is by far the best solution: no fan, no noise, no overheating.

oxtsu · Post by **oxtsu** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 3:51 pm

Whatever floats your boat, MKL. That's just my opinion. If I have a choice I would much rather leave it with the case on, subbed with a quieter fan. It makes handling and storage easier, and I use cabinets primarily so I don't need absolute silence.

Speaking of original CPS, I try to get the smaller motherboard whenever possible, and strangley enough I've taken to salvaging a certain cheap CPS game for their light grey cases as of late.

MKL · Post by **MKL** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:43 pm

oxtsu wrote:Speaking of original CPS, I try to get the smaller motherboard whenever possible, and strangley enough I've taken to salvaging a certain cheap CPS game for their light grey cases as of late.

heh, I must admit I did the same years ago: I bought a couple of minty Saturday Night Slam Masters boards only to get the plastic cases so I could house other CPS games I liked better. However those cases are possibly the worst for overheating: practically no vents and a small fan that's noisy as hell (replacements weren't much better) and the bottom of the case is friggin' hot anyway

. In the end I opted to keep the boards caseless, I'm sure they will live longer.

But perhaps you mean the Quiz & Dragons cases. That type is better for ventilation.

oxtsu · Post by **oxtsu** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 10:55 pm

Yeah, I meant the light grey case that was used for certain CPS Dash games
(every Quiz & Dragons I've seen was caseless though..I'm salvaging from another game which I'd prefer remain nameless..haha).

PC Engine Fan X! · Post by **PC Engine Fan X!** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 11:26 pm

I'm content with a stock CPS2 cooling fan however loud it may be when it is running on a Supergun setup. Gotta admit that the cooling fan on the Cave DDP-DOJ blue colored metal case is quieter than the stock fan in those CPS2 motherboards. ^_~

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

iatneH · Post by **iatneH** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:38 am

Looking to do a fan swap sometime.

Where can I get the bit for opening the A board? Can I make one out of a Torx bit? I'm having no luck with the melted pen cap.

neorichieb1971 · Post by **neorichieb1971** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:47 am

D wrote:01 Buy a cabinet. Put it in the cabinet.
02 Put amplifier in the cabinet as well. Turn up the base.
03 Instead of having it just powered up, actually play the game!

You might consider instead of opening it, to slightly obstruct the vent holes with stickers or tape. Less noise will come from the fan! Use at your own risk though!

D, your off the charts mate. It must be my weird sense of humor or the way your wrote that.. made my day!

oxtsu · Post by **oxtsu** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:52 am

iatneh - re: tools. Here are a couple:

http://www.wihatools.com/indexes/indxSecuritytorx.htm

made in china stuff on ebay.

required size = T20

Post by **spadgy** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 10:16 am

iatneH wrote:Looking to do a fan swap sometime.

Where can I get the bit for opening the A board?

You need a Ts20 Security Torx tool for the A and B boards. Here's the details to make finding it easier. Most Torx tools with several sizes have a 20. I'll double check that is the size when I get home tonight. Im 98% sure right now...

You need 'Security Torx', rather than 'Standard Torx'.

Basically, Standard Torx comes in sizes like T7, T8, T20 etc.

Security Torx have an extra letter in there, but it does change. For example Ts7, Ts8, Ts20, but I recently got a tool that was Th20, and was a Security Torx.

To make things more confusing, Security Torx is also sometimes called Tamper-Resistant TORX (often shortened to Torx TR), or pin-in-Torx.

Some times Torx is also called Star Key sometimes!

Finally - you do NOT NEED Torx PLUS, or External Torx - these are other types of driver head...

D · Post by D » Fri Jul 11, 2008 10:52 am

neorichieb1971 wrote:
D wrote:01 Buy a cabinet. Put it in the cabinet.
02 Put amplifier in the cabinet as well. Turn up the base.
03 Instead of having it just powered up, actually play the game!

You might consider instead of opening it, to slightly obstruct the vent holes with stickers or tape. Less noise will come from the fan! Use at your own risk though!
D, your off the charts mate. It must be my weird sense of humor or the way your wrote that.. made my day!

Yes I'm weird.
01 As of late I'm trying to convince/preach to people to skip the supergun phase and get a cab, because supergun seem like such a hassle and you just get a console experience, no firmly fixed in place sticks, etc.. Just warning potential new supergun buyers.
02 Also preaching to people to upgrade audio in their cabinets
03 That was just a stupid tip. when playing you won't notice it that much as when you're not playing

04 the tape thing. Well, you see, I did this with my Dreamcast. the fan moves air regardless of the amount of holes or how big the holes are. If you were for instance to tape off half of the vent holes. the amount of noise would decreas significantly, and the unit would only get a little more hot.

I have never experimented with cps2 noise reduction. But the best solution would seem to be to keep it caseless, but like oxtsu said, it's nice to have pcbs in a plastic case so you don't have to handle them with that much care and you can actually step on them without crying afterwards.

iatneH · Post by **iatneH** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:51 pm

Thanks a lot spadgy, I've gone and ordered a small set off eBay. I think it has the one I need, and having tri-wings will be handy too. Get bonus!

One more thing: there is a bolt-like thing with a Capcom logo on it, and a sticker over it. Is this something that will need to be handled directly? Or is it just sort of "there" and I only need to worry about the T bits?

Post by **spadgy** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:39 pm

Ah - the 'security bolt'. I was lucky that my and A and B came with it removed.

bloodflowers has some advise of sorts in this thread:

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... urity+bolt

Not sure if that helps. CPS2 Shock might be able to help too.

Oh - and the Torx bit is a Ts-20, so you'll be fine...