Best arcade sticks

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Sat Jan 20, 2007 4:54 pm

Not necessarily that specific button, but generally the buttons on that site just seem like they'd suit a Dreamcast stick better, since they're 28mm and have a longer screw. Maybe too long? They just look more durable than the Sanwas, from photos at least.

Arznei · Post by **Arznei** » Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:12 pm

Is this a good stick for shooters? I can't find any sticks on play-asia otherwise that I want to buy, and the hrap is out of stock. Shipping from ebay would cost too much I reckon.

ArrogantBastard · Post by **ArrogantBastard** » Sat Jan 20, 2007 6:15 pm

That looks quite uncomfortable. Try posting a WTB thread in Trading Station for HRAP 1/2 (whichever you feel like buying), or wait it out until one of the importers have them in stock.

elvis · Post by **elvis** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 11:23 am

bloodflowers wrote:STC / Suzo 500. Absolutely un-fucking-beatable.

I don't mind them. I have a set of them in my current cocktail cab. Very short throw makes for nice twitch-play.

Damocles wrote:Read the next sentence, jerk.

Unit being the key word here. Take 5 minutes to swap out the stick and buttons and you have a handy-dandy little stick that comes with a handy-dandy little pre-wired encoder.

However, if your angle was that of a person who prefers J-style sticks...well...too bad.

Well, here's me making friends again.

I make my own sticks. I have a nice big shed with nice expensive woodworking tools. I would be diagnosed clinically insane to buy an X-Arcade "unit" just for modding, when materials to make a stick from scratch would cost me 1/10th the money, and result in a better designed stick/case.

And thus far, the sticks I make have gleamed enough attention that folks have asked me to start selling them, which I soon will be. I've also caught the eye of a local gaming store that wants to start building them commercially for national distribution. I have no idea how successful any of this will be, but feedback from folks who use them thus far has been great. I guess the next few months will tell.

So far X-Arcade has failed to make a dent in this country, even for modding purposes. Cheap rubbish doesn't go down well here.

rib · Post by **rib** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:42 pm

well i must say that i still find the travel of my Special Addition HRAP (Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK Stick) a bit to big. i want a stick that reacts (clicks) faster.
would the Ultimarc T-Stik Plus a good solution in this case? what would you recommend?
also its very important for me that the stick has a strong force to the center which the sanwa has.

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:37 am

I make my own sticks.

Pics please!

elvis · Post by **elvis** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:56 am

GaijinPunch wrote:
I make my own sticks.
Pics please!

They'll be up on the site linked from my signature within a month or so. I've been putting over 80 hours a week into work (I now have a fulltime job on top of my private consultancy gig) so getting the site up and running has been slow. I'm taking 2 days off in the coming week (my first holidays/weekend in over 5 years), and hopefully I'll get the site updated, including shots of the sticks for sale as well as my private ones.

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 3:04 am

You know, I always wanted a nice non-wooden stick w/ a graphic of my choice on the plate, w/ a 13-pin DINN connector. Never got around to finishing it though. I could mod the Agetech to be the perfect casing, but I could never cut the plexi right, and I'll win a pick-up sticks tournament with my butt cheeks before soldering a DINN connector properly.

elvis · Post by **elvis** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:59 pm

Depending entirely on the logic boards I get from the factory in China I deal with, I'm considering wiring all my sticks to DSUB15 connectors and using an external addon box for the logic controller.

That way if folks want to hack it in the future, it's a trivial job. It raises the price a bit (US$5 extra, plus shipping bulk etc), but it means the power is in the user's hand if they want to change things.

I'm a geek tinkerer, and if I make these things commercially, they are going to be targeted at other geek tinkerers.

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:33 pm

Yeah, I know what you mean. I've tried to be such a tinkerer, but my fingers don't allow it. Thus, I focus most of my geekdom on my website.

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 2:06 pm

I can't find the exact dimensions of the Suzo / Euro stick anywhere. Could anybody please tell me what they are? I'm particularly interested in the depth and diameter of that piece at the stick's base. I was thinking of putting it in a DC stick case, which is maybe a stupid idea?

It's just that the last time I played with one of these was playing Street Fighter Alpha in an arcade. The person with me said it was better than playing Alpha 3 on Dreamcast. And it was.

http://www.arcadeshop.de/product_info.p ... cts_id=422

antron · Post by **antron** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 3:15 pm

this REAL ARCADE PRO HORI JOYSTICK 2 for playstations is on ebay.
any opinions on this product?
will I be limited to certain sticks that will fit?
thanks

Ex_Mosquito · Post by **Ex_Mosquito** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 8:41 pm

Being a sanwa lover/user i feel the need to defend them. I used a sanwa for all my replays. Theyre the most precise and effortless sticks out there, and ive tried a fair few different ones. Also i dont see how the concern about the slow return speed back to neutral comes from or even makes a difference, its not even measurable nevermind a hindrance whilst playing a game. Sure, they take a while to use well but once proficient theyre deadly. Theres no short cut using a stick, they just take practise. It seems that if people dont improve in an hour of using a stick that it sucks. Sorry, i just love them. X x x

ReKleSS · Post by **ReKleSS** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 12:32 am

antron: That photo is the HRAP 1, not the HRAP2... the HRAP2 is white with red buttons. I use mine and love it, I'm sure a few others here are the same. If you search around the hardware forum you can find some info on installing Seimitsu sticks - how easy it is depends on which revision you get.

My preference is Sanwa JLF stick with Sanwa OBSF-30-RG buttons. I fitted my Agetec stick with HRAP parts (i.e. JLF + Hori buttons) and that works fine for shmupping. Personally, I like the Agetec just because it has a metal plate on top.

Vokatse: Good luck finding a converter to let you use a stick on Saturn and DC - I ended up installing a Saturn controller board in mine, so I have 2 wires sticking out... If you want to go that route you might want to install a PSX board, and then use PSX->DC and PSX->Sat converters.

antron · Post by **antron** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 2:55 pm

ReKleSS wrote:antron: That photo is the HRAP 1, not the HRAP2... the HRAP2 is white with red buttons. I use mine and love it

So you suggest the HRAP2 over the 1?
Thanks

ReKleSS · Post by **ReKleSS** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 10:30 pm

There's not much difference, really. The HRAP2 has a different button layout, and the HRAP1 has a top with a mirror finish, which may be troublesome. The current version of the HRAP1 (i.e. the one you're likely to be able to find) has the same top as the HRAP2... so the difference comes down to the colours and button layout.

HRAP1
HRAP2

Franz the Stampede · Post by **Franz the Stampede** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 11:08 pm

Not necessarily about suggestions, but what do you think a good joystick should be like?

For me it should be:

1 - the stick itself should have very small movement. I mean, the space between the neutral position and top up/down/righ/left should be REALLY little, because the smaller the "distance" you have to move the stick to actually trigger the direction, the quicker the action. That's why I personally think many Hori sticks are bad.

2 - likewise, once pressed and released, the stick should come back in NO TIME. I really mean NO TIME. I've found the jopystick made for NeoGeo CD the best I'ever tried regarding this particular aspect.

3 - the stick should be fairly "tall". If I put my hand straight next to the stick (as if I wanted to hit with a "karate chop", ehrm) the ball at the top should almost exceed my palm in height. Most sticks can barely arrive at my third finger from the bottom (i.e. middle) which I find slightly uncomfortable.

Given these 3 aspects (especially the first 2), would would be ideal joysticks for me? I feel like I'm very picky and I should go for some sort of tailored solution, too bad I can't build anything...

Franz the Stampede · Post by **Franz the Stampede** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 6:58 pm

Vokatse wrote:Well, if those work for you, they may work for me. I really haven't played on an arcade stick too much so I may as well start on something that works well, and those specifications sound reasonable. I'm trying to ask people here because many of you guys have experience playing shmups with sticks.

Can you recommend some parts to mod one of my sticks?

Maybe some tutorial links?

Thanks!

Were you talking to me? Because in the case those "specifications" were ment to be in terms of fighting games only/mainly. I never really felt like I needed a joystick until I wanted to get at least decent at VF. Some Akira stuff simply can't be done with a pad. tha'ts why I started to look into joysticks. for everything else, I'm happy with controllers. Or rather, I'm SO used to it that trying and get on sticks the same proficiency I have on pads will take me ages...

Damocles · Post by **Damocles** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:19 am

Franz the Stampede wrote:Not necessarily about suggestions, but what do you think a good joystick should be like?

For me it should be:

1 - the stick itself should have very small movement. I mean, the space between the neutral position and top up/down/righ/left should be REALLY little, because the smaller the "distance" you have to move the stick to actually trigger the direction, the quicker the action. That's why I personally think many Hori sticks are bad.

2 - likewise, once pressed and released, the stick should come back in NO TIME. I really mean NO TIME. I've found the jopystick made for NeoGeo CD the best I'ever tried regarding this particular aspect.

3 - the stick should be fairly "tall". If I put my hand straight next to the stick (as if I wanted to hit with a "karate chop", ehrm) the ball at the top should almost exceed my palm in height. Most sticks can barely arrive at my third finger from the bottom (i.e. middle) which I find slightly uncomfortable.

Given these 3 aspects (especially the first 2), would would be ideal joysticks for me? I feel like I'm very picky and I should go for some sort of tailored solution, too bad I can't build anything...

1.) T-Stik/Mag-Stik or Suzo 500. Play with one and you'll never go back to Sanwa/Happ sticks.

2.) T-Stik or Suzo 500. Both are snappy. The Mag-Stik isn't as good at this.

3.) This depends on how you mount the stick. If you top mount most any stick you will get a tall joystick (save J-style sticks, which basically need to be top mounted). On some sticks you can also buy different shaft lengths (T-Stik/Mag-Stik).

I'm going to sound like a broken record, but from your list I would say stay away from Happ and Sanwa sticks.

EDIT: Before anyone pipes in...yep, it's a bit awkward to play fighters with a short throw stick. ...at first. It's just like learning to use a stick in general, it will take a bit of practice. It's worth it, though.

destructor · Post by **destructor** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 6:20 pm

As Damocles say: Mag-Stik or Suzo 500. T-Stik isn't more available on Ultimarc.
Suzo require 5V power.

Damocles · Post by **Damocles** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:37 pm

To continue what destructor said. T-Stiks have been discontinued by Ultimarc, and were replaced by the Mag-Stik. However, Industrio Lorenzo (sp?) still makes them, and they are still possible to find. Generally, if you see something like "IL 4-way switchable joystick" it's a T-Stik. Other tech-centric arcade forums have members that sell them as well.

As for the Suzo requiring power, the 500 doesn't, but the inductive joystick does.

Damocles · Post by **Damocles** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:37 pm

Vokatse wrote:The Suzo 500 seems like the best choice according to you guys, because I want a really good stick. I'm planning to just mod my Agetec with a stick and buttons, and I don't want to do anything too complicated for my first time.

I'm still at boarding school, but I'm trying to make a list of parts I'm going to buy for my vacation. Does the Suzo 500 require anything extra to install, or is pretty much the same as installing any other arcade stick?

What do you guys recommend for the buttons?

Thanks!

Honestly, I don't believe a Suzo will fit inside an Agetec case without heavy modification, if at all. You will have to do something about the cone that replaces the dust washer, as well as the US-style bolt pattern. Check it out:

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/inde ... cts_id=197

Damocles · Post by **Damocles** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 11:45 pm

Vokatse wrote:Hmmm...in that case I won't get this. I would rather mod an existing stick, because I don't think I'm experienced enough, yet.

Anyways, after the Suzo, what would be the second best? The Seimitsu?

Thanks!

Many would say Sanwa/Seimitsu. I, personally, can't stand them. Measure the inside of the case and see how much room is in there. If a Mag/T-Stik will fit in there I'd say go for it. If not, you'll probably have to go with a J-Style stick.

Wolf44 · Post by **Wolf44** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:46 am

Hrap all teh way! ( with sanwa buttons of course ) or a custom but that costs too much. I use mine for both 2d fighters and shmups, never looked back, pads are for women real men use sticks!

That neo geo white stick is nice, had my eye on it since it was anounced but I bet the parts are feces, the hrap 3 is coming out soon, thinking about picking one up its looks uber sexy, I just wish HORI would release custom licensed art plates.

KBZ · Post by **KBZ** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:50 am

people complain about the throw of the sanwa stick. However, wouldn't that issue be easily solved with a different snap on square gate plastic piece on the bottom? Anyone was to make a custom on? :p

destructor · Post by **destructor** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 9:33 am

Damocles wrote:As for the Suzo requiring power, the 500 doesn't, but the inductive joystick does.

Sorry for mistake, I still thought about Suzo Inductive which is on my table.

Then you can add to list Suzo Inductive. Short throw and no microswitches, very silent, excellent for shmups. 5V power require.

Damocles · Post by **Damocles** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:56 pm

Kingbuzzo wrote:people complain about the throw of the sanwa stick. However, wouldn't that issue be easily solved with a different snap on square gate plastic piece on the bottom? Anyone was to make a custom on? :p

Yes, that's entirely possible. In fact, I believe a member on the shoryuken forums modded a JLF with actuators so that it engaged sooner and reduced overall throw. The trick would be to create a consistent surface, so I suppose a round restrictor plate would be the best bet. Just slide a piece of material inside there and glue it down. Basically, it's what is commonly done on Mag-Stiks to stop them from jiggling. Looks like I have a new job to do.

Franz the Stampede · Post by **Franz the Stampede** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 11:00 pm

Damocles wrote: 1.) T-Stik/Mag-Stik or Suzo 500. Play with one and you'll never go back to Sanwa/Happ sticks.

2.) T-Stik or Suzo 500. Both are snappy. The Mag-Stik isn't as good at this.

3.) This depends on how you mount the stick. If you top mount most any stick you will get a tall joystick (save J-style sticks, which basically need to be top mounted). On some sticks you can also buy different shaft lengths (T-Stik/Mag-Stik).

I'm going to sound like a broken record, but from your list I would say stay away from Happ and Sanwa sticks.

EDIT: Before anyone pipes in...yep, it's a bit awkward to play fighters with a short throw stick. ...at first. It's just like learning to use a stick in general, it will take a bit of practice. It's worth it, though.

Damocles, thanks a lot for your suggestions. I had a look and I think those manufacturers sell parts, nothign pre-done, right? So it's not exactly for me, but that's my bad. Anywas, thanks for the suggestion, I really lik ethe way, in this forum, all the knowledgeable people are friendly and willing to give advice to n00bs likeme...

Damocles · Post by **Damocles** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 3:15 am

Damocles wrote:
Kingbuzzo wrote:people complain about the throw of the sanwa stick. However, wouldn't that issue be easily solved with a different snap on square gate plastic piece on the bottom? Anyone was to make a custom on? :p
Yes, that's entirely possible. In fact, I believe a member on the shoryuken forums modded a JLF with actuators so that it engaged sooner and reduced overall throw. The trick would be to create a consistent surface, so I suppose a round restrictor plate would be the best bet. Just slide a piece of material inside there and glue it down. Basically, it's what is commonly done on Mag-Stiks to stop them from jiggling. Looks like I have a new job to do.

Alright, so I decided to experiment on a JLF tonight, with some interesting results. I decided to try adding actuating levers to the microswitches on a JLF, as well as using a shim around the actuator itself to reduce overall throw.

Unfortunately, I don't believe I'll be able to get successful results. With both the lever mod, and the actuator mod, the microswitches will sometimes fail to disengage when the stick is centered. Obviously, this is very bad. The problem, it seems, lies in the overall strength of the joystick spring. With the mods, the levers don't allow the stick to center fully since the stick slightly depresses the opposite microswitch before hitting true center. This isn't a problem with most western sticks since the spring is so much heavier and overpowers the spring inside the microswitch. The acuator-shim mod produces similar results if overdone. If you're just looking to cut down a little, however, a thin shim will work.

I used the smallest levers I could find...which are damn tiny. This mod also has the unfortunate tendency to nullify the "snap" that JLF's are known for.

j^aws · Post by **j^aws** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:07 pm

Best Sticks?

Hmm, I'd also have to say Suzo... I grew up with arcades that mainly had Suzo's (don't know the exact models, but they were usually all red or black, without showing the metal shafts)... and they felt better than any modern Sanwa or Happ that I've used.

My preference these days is the Saturn D-pad (in the Saturn 3D analogue pad), but those Suzo's, IIRC, were just as tactile for me... I even bought a Suzo Inductive a couple of years ago but never got around to doing anything with it... a lack of motivation because I was happy with the D-pad I guess.

The Suzo Inductive is different though as it registers 'directions' by it's namesake, induction, and without any microswitches. Kinda similar to the Happ P360, but not as smooth a 'circular' motion. It has these 'ribs' at it's circumference that help you find 'diagonals'. This gives it a unique feel, but probably not for everyone's tastes... and they certainly feel different from the standard Suzo's, but they still have that stiff, short throw, which I also find desirable for shmups... not sure if I'd prefer them over the microswitched Suzo's though...