Best console display setup?
Best console display setup?
I'm currently using a standard CRT tv with s-video hookup and I don't think it's cutting it. I'm looking for some ideas on what the best setup is for 2d console gaming is.
I want to run a lot of systems on it, many that are old, (NES up to PS2) is an SCART mod feasible on most systems? Is there any type of CRT that can get you close to quality of an arcade monitor? Or is HDTV better for this stuff? Would an upscan converter like an xrgb-2 be good to get? I don't really know a heck of a lot about this so any ideas are helpful.
I want to run a lot of systems on it, many that are old, (NES up to PS2) is an SCART mod feasible on most systems? Is there any type of CRT that can get you close to quality of an arcade monitor? Or is HDTV better for this stuff? Would an upscan converter like an xrgb-2 be good to get? I don't really know a heck of a lot about this so any ideas are helpful.
The only way to RGB-mod an (NTSC) NES is to put in a RP2C03 PPU (found on Nintendo Playchoice 10 arcade-boards, in some Nintendo VS arcade games and the Famicom Titler); very difficult to do and the colors won't be correct for all games as the palette is slightly different. Besides, the NES wasn't supposed to be RGB and the games' graphics are optimized for composite output.
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stoneroses
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Hope you don't mind a lot of information as I must weigh in. I recently was in your shoes when my 32 in Trinitron of 13 years died on me recently. The best connection was S-Video and was nice in its time. It was starting to show its age and I thought hard about the replacement. As I play a lot of older stuff as well (Saturn, DC, N64, SNES, NES, PS1, Genesis and the yearly few hours with some old Atari systems). So I needed something that made the best at showing each in its highest visual quality. But I still needed something "future proof" if you would. My solution was to go with a Hi-Scan WEGA 27" 4:3. Let me tell you, after about a month so far, it is like playing the games for the first time all over again.
The visual jump in moving to Progressive scan using component cables is incredible on games that support it. Even regular games using S-Video and Composet are equally impressive. Some Sonys have the Digital Reality Creation engine that takes, regular definition and outputs it at near HD quality. Sure, you are still bound to the source material, but it makes most everything that much better. For instance, playing a Saturn using only Composet feels very arcade like. Having everyingthing displayed this way through the TV makes anything look better than any Standard TV would. I would look for a similar feature in whatever setup you go with.
I play a lot of arcade-based fare and the results are fantastic. Vector games such as Tempest look like you were playing them in the arcade. Also, you are covered as things go HD on the 360 and PS3. I have a widescreen set as my main one and I feel the 4:3 as a "gaming set" is better. Without having to strech 99.9% of my games or side-box them is the right call. But you can play letterbox or Zoomed (displaying the center 4:3 image) with HD games in their native resolution sweetens the deal further. Just my 2 cents.
The visual jump in moving to Progressive scan using component cables is incredible on games that support it. Even regular games using S-Video and Composet are equally impressive. Some Sonys have the Digital Reality Creation engine that takes, regular definition and outputs it at near HD quality. Sure, you are still bound to the source material, but it makes most everything that much better. For instance, playing a Saturn using only Composet feels very arcade like. Having everyingthing displayed this way through the TV makes anything look better than any Standard TV would. I would look for a similar feature in whatever setup you go with.
I play a lot of arcade-based fare and the results are fantastic. Vector games such as Tempest look like you were playing them in the arcade. Also, you are covered as things go HD on the 360 and PS3. I have a widescreen set as my main one and I feel the 4:3 as a "gaming set" is better. Without having to strech 99.9% of my games or side-box them is the right call. But you can play letterbox or Zoomed (displaying the center 4:3 image) with HD games in their native resolution sweetens the deal further. Just my 2 cents.
When I went out to puchase a new TV 6 months ago I brought my RGB-Scart modded Japanese PC Engine to the store and tested it with ALL 50hz CRTs they had (100Hz TVs are very bad for (classic) gaming, do not buy one of those!). I discovered that some TVs have an inter-digital filter that make low res game graphics look like badly digitized (you couldn't see every single pixel). I got the best results from JVC TVs, which also happen to have very reasonable prices. Out of the TVs available I chose a 50hz 4/3 29" PAL JVC CRT TV with a flat screen. It is fully compatible to NTSC (Not just PAL 60 but real composite NTSC and even NTSC S-VHS). Very sharp and clear picture. Fantastic TV for all gaming purposes.CFO wrote:All the TVs that support SCART that I've found are either PAL, an HDTV tv, or very small (14"). Does anybody know of any good 20+" CRTs that work for NTSC?
One sidenote: Testing those TVs (Sony, Samsung, JVC etc.) I discoverd that ALL of them cut off a few lines at the top and the bottom of the screen when in NTSC mode; however I could rectify this problem for my JVC by changing the line-space using the Service Menu which can be accessed by pressing "i" and "mute". Pressing the green button while in the service menu brings up the geometry menu.
Making changes to the following does the trick:
VSIZ
VPOS
HSIZ
HPOS
WARNING: before changing ANYTHING using the service menu you have to write down all values (they are different for every single TV even of the same type). These values can not be reset to factory defaults automatically and if you screw up you can seriously distort your TV's geometry which means you'll have to bring it to a repair-shop to fix it if you didn't take notes of the standard values so you can do it yourself.
Thank you for all the helpful and informative replies guys.
Ceph, is this close to the TV you got? http://www.samstores.com/details.asp?ProdID=1292
But, I am still a bit unsure of what the best option of output is for me using NTSC systems and an NTSC TV? If it would not be too much trouble could someone please tell me what the best output option for 2D games is for each system that I list? any help is appreciated.
NES -
SNES -
JP Mega Drive -
Saturn -
N64 -
Duo-RX -
Dreamcast - (VGA for most shmups, no?)
Neo-geo AES -
PS1 -
PS2 -
Hope this is not too much trouble, thanks again
Ceph, is this close to the TV you got? http://www.samstores.com/details.asp?ProdID=1292
But, I am still a bit unsure of what the best option of output is for me using NTSC systems and an NTSC TV? If it would not be too much trouble could someone please tell me what the best output option for 2D games is for each system that I list? any help is appreciated.
NES -
SNES -
JP Mega Drive -
Saturn -
N64 -
Duo-RX -
Dreamcast - (VGA for most shmups, no?)
Neo-geo AES -
PS1 -
PS2 -
Hope this is not too much trouble, thanks again
NES - composite
SNES - RGB
JP Mega Drive - RGB
Saturn - RGB
N64 - S-Video (needs mod for RGB)
Duo-RX - composite (needs mod for RGB)
Dreamcast - RGB or VGA
Neo-geo AES - RGB (note that above serial no. 86000 the RGB quality gets progressively worse)
PS1 - RGB
PS2 - RGB (for 2D) or VGA or YUV/component (for 3D)
You may also want to look at professional video monitors (such as those used for editing). Sony PVM and KX series is good, Barco or NEC also make monitors like that. A lot of film production companies have upgraded to HDTV now and are getting rid of their old equipment. This week I was actually able to get a 27" Barco monitor from a film production company for 100 Euros. It's great, since you can also stand it vertically with much less risk than with a TV. If you use a videorecorder as a tuner you can also watch TV on a monitor like that.
SNES - RGB
JP Mega Drive - RGB
Saturn - RGB
N64 - S-Video (needs mod for RGB)
Duo-RX - composite (needs mod for RGB)
Dreamcast - RGB or VGA
Neo-geo AES - RGB (note that above serial no. 86000 the RGB quality gets progressively worse)
PS1 - RGB
PS2 - RGB (for 2D) or VGA or YUV/component (for 3D)
You may also want to look at professional video monitors (such as those used for editing). Sony PVM and KX series is good, Barco or NEC also make monitors like that. A lot of film production companies have upgraded to HDTV now and are getting rid of their old equipment. This week I was actually able to get a 27" Barco monitor from a film production company for 100 Euros. It's great, since you can also stand it vertically with much less risk than with a TV. If you use a videorecorder as a tuner you can also watch TV on a monitor like that.
You are welcomeD wrote:JVC! ok A very useful piece you wrote there, thank you
Component??? Why would you need that? To answer your question,CFO wrote:Alright I also found SCART to Component converters, I guess one of those would be alright even if they are a bit pricey ($115). Would I lose any quality using one of these?
when converting Scart to Component, there should be no noticable loss of quality.
Where do you live? As has been explained before, all European TVs feature Scart plugs. So if you have RGB-Scart cables for your game consoles you can connect them directly to your TV and will get the best possible picture. Component is used in the United States and is slightly inferior to Scart (which uses a separate sync channel). Component plugs consist of three RCA plugs; colored red, green and blue.
This is what Scart looks like:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scart
If you are living in the US and want the best picture-quality you'd ineed have to buy European RGB Scart cables for each of your consoles and one Component converter to connect to your TV.
Well, in that case please disregard what I said about TVs, what you need a 60hz CRT TV with componet plugs. And then you'll need something like this:CFO wrote:Yes, I live in North America so I will need a converter I suppose.
http://cgi.ebay.com/SCART-RGB-to-Compon ... 0013947454
If you search ebay you'll also find the necessary scart cables for each sonsole.
Since you'll have to buy the cables from European sellers it's going to be expensive, but RGB really is the best you can get.
CFO wrote:I can only seem to find Sony PVMs with component hookup, will this work? I have looked at a bunch on ebay but have not seen one yet with an SCART slot. If you know where to find one with an SCART connection that would be awesome if you pointed me in it's direction. :?:
No SCART in NA. The RGB input on Sony PVM monitors use a DB-25 connector. You'll need to custom make the cables yourself. Or ask Matt.CFO wrote:Yes, I live in North America so I will need a converter I suppose.
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angrycoder
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Scart can do true RGB, component is not the same as RGB.Ceph wrote:You are welcomeD wrote:JVC! ok A very useful piece you wrote there, thank you
Component??? Why would you need that? To answer your question,CFO wrote:Alright I also found SCART to Component converters, I guess one of those would be alright even if they are a bit pricey ($115). Would I lose any quality using one of these?
when converting Scart to Component, there should be no noticable loss of quality.
http://www.mameworld.net/pc2jamma/CFO wrote:Is it possible to do SCART with an arcade monitor? I thought they only do RGB? Also I would preferably like to also be able to watch TV on this CRT.
RGB/SCART -> Arcade monitors is a walk in the park. I play all my consoles like this, and there simply is no better way to see games in action.
Once you play this way, you can never go back to TV again.
I emailed that seller, he said that converter will not output any audio when using it so that's not really an option.Ceph wrote:Well, in that case please disregard what I said about TVs, what you need a 60hz CRT TV with componet plugs. And then you'll need something like this:CFO wrote:Yes, I live in North America so I will need a converter I suppose.
http://cgi.ebay.com/SCART-RGB-to-Compon ... 0013947454
If you search ebay you'll also find the necessary scart cables for each sonsole.
Since you'll have to buy the cables from European sellers it's going to be expensive, but RGB really is the best you can get.
elvis I couldn't find anything on that site about just using the monitor, do you always have to hook up the system to JAMMA and use the arcade controls?
oxtsu that seems like a great option, I will have to shoot Matt a PM.
Thanks again for all the useful replies, I had a feeling this prodedure would not come too simply.
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You can easily bypass the audio on a SCART-Component transcoder. You just need a breakout convertor.
NX-SCT-031
http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Hi-Fi&TVaccesso ... aptors.htm
Just plug the console scart lead into the breakout adaptor, breakout adaptor into transcoder.. Take the video from the transoder and the audio from the breakout convertor. Job Done.
I do it.. results are great, but not RGB standard. Scanlines are not nearly as defined and the crispness loses its edge. However, I did buy the cheapest component TV I could find.
Why isn't there anyone out there who can just suggest an arcade monitor model number and provide a lead with instructions (for a fee). But then you still need an audio breakout and a box to put the thing in.
NX-SCT-031
http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Hi-Fi&TVaccesso ... aptors.htm
Just plug the console scart lead into the breakout adaptor, breakout adaptor into transcoder.. Take the video from the transoder and the audio from the breakout convertor. Job Done.
I do it.. results are great, but not RGB standard. Scanlines are not nearly as defined and the crispness loses its edge. However, I did buy the cheapest component TV I could find.
Why isn't there anyone out there who can just suggest an arcade monitor model number and provide a lead with instructions (for a fee). But then you still need an audio breakout and a box to put the thing in.
This industry has become 2 dimensional as it transcended into a 3D world.
CFO,
It seems that most of the SCART > Component converters floating around the market have no audio connections - you have to drill a couple of holes and add them yourself.
If you are good a building things then you might want to take a look at my SCART to Arcade Monitor Adaptor design. I'm confident that it'll work on all arcade monitors (save a few esoteric nintendo ones).
It seems that most of the SCART > Component converters floating around the market have no audio connections - you have to drill a couple of holes and add them yourself.
If you are good a building things then you might want to take a look at my SCART to Arcade Monitor Adaptor design. I'm confident that it'll work on all arcade monitors (save a few esoteric nintendo ones).
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That's a pretty complex solution to a simple problem.viletim wrote:If you are good a building things then you might want to take a look at my SCART to Arcade Monitor Adaptor design. I'm confident that it'll work on all arcade monitors (save a few esoteric nintendo ones).
You wouldn't happen to be an engineer by trade, would you?
Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think that there's a simpler way to connect a SCART device to an arcade monitor. I know that some (more modern?) arcade monitors have will accept a small input signal (~1 volt) but many older/simpler models will not have enough range on the contrast controls. The circuit is about as simple as is possible while sticking with commonly available parts.That's a pretty complex solution to a simple problem.
You wouldn't happen to be an engineer by trade, would you?
And no, not quite and engineer, just a hobbiest :)
Were you talking to me? If so then no, I don't have anything to supply (except maybe information)....Can you supply the adaptors in bulk?