Thanks Fudoh. I was the one that sent you an email about the VGA pass through degradation on the 2+.Fudoh wrote:Yes, you can.lynchesque wrote:Can you turn it off on all models?
2 has on/off only (100%)
2+ has 100/75/50/25%/off
3 has linear setting in 255 steps.
I am using the gamesx one:RGB32E wrote: Which NEC amp design? Are you referring to the Gamesx amp, or the Baku amp?
I believe I am using the sync signal, I can check that tonight if you wishthough. I use an SNES RGB cable for it, and I didn't check how it was wired since I just needed to wire and amp the Red, green and blue signals as you mention.RGB32E wrote: If you're using the gamesx amp, do you use composite SYNC for VIDEO or the sync signal? I would imagine that you'd only be amplifying the red, green, and blue signals, right? I have an extra gamesx amp built and I'll pop it in my N64 tonight and see if that's a solution.
Also, do you get the vertical lines when using the amp on the N64, or is that just an issue with the NEC systems?
Yes, I hadn't set the AFC in that one, as you can see on the other PCE shots I corrected that later on. The banding seems to be just an artifact of the downscaled photo, here's the same pic in its original resolution: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2429/364 ... 4bda_o.jpg (zoom it in to the full res). I usually have LPF off in all my consoles.Fudoh wrote:On the Dragon Spirit screenshot you have the two typical PCE RGB problems, first the wave on top which can be eliminated be putting the AFC level to 4 or 5, which on the other hand makes the whole vertical sync a bit shaky. On you can see faint vertical bars on the background. Did you have the LPF turned on or off for this screenshot ? My guess would be on, as those "jail bars" are usually more visible, especially with the LPF turned off.
do you have a PS2 among your systems ? I'd be surprised if a PS2 can really be run without enabling the LPF and without lots of noise in the picture...I usually have LPF off in all my consoles.
It is a Japanese Duo.Fudoh wrote:Which kind of PCE are you using ? Classic, Duo, Duo-R ?
I do have it, and have used it quite a bit without noticing anything in particular, but I never gave it close inspection. Any particular game you want me to try? I've been playing Espgaruda on it, maybe the "character selection screen"/"how to play" might be a good test. I can post screens of it with and without the LPF tonight. I have a Japanese first gen PS2 (1000 series) and an US unmodded later model.Fudoh wrote: do you have a PS2 among your systems ? I'd be surprised if a PS2 can really be run without enabling the LPF and without lots of noise in the picture...
Good to know... shouldn't take too long to install.Artemio wrote:I am using the gamesx one:
That cable uses composite video as sync. I have several of those cables NIB, and will be using one soon! Thanks for the info and pictures. I can't wait to get my XRGB-3!Artemio wrote:I believe I am using the sync signal, I can check that tonight if you wishthough. I use an SNES RGB cable for it, and I didn't check how it was wired since I just needed to wire and amp the Red, green and blue signals as you mention.
This is the cable I am using:
nothing in particular. Try whatever you have on hand. Noise is usually more noticable in darker screens than in lighter ones. The A/D setting in the last XRGB's last main option point is used to minimize the visible noise. Maybe you could just note down your value and just run the A/D value from 0 to 255 to see if the noise comes & goes. Thanks !I do have it, and have used it quite a bit without noticing anything in particular, but I never gave it close inspection. Any particular game you want me to try?
I just tested both PS2s. I am using the offical Playstation RGB cable. There is indeed some noise in dark blue areas (at least it is easier to spot in those for me). The noise level is equal to me in both units. The original setting on my XRGB-3 was 255, and I went down to zero and in small steps again just to verify.Fudoh wrote: nothing in particular. Try whatever you have on hand. Noise is usually more noticable in darker screens than in lighter ones. The A/D setting in the last XRGB's last main option point is used to minimize the visible noise. Maybe you could just note down your value and just run the A/D value from 0 to 255 to see if the noise comes & goes. Thanks !
I have a lot of shvc-010 cable too and it's not using compoiste video as sync, it use composite sync from pin 4 of multiout.RGB32E wrote: That cable uses composite video as sync. I have several of those cables NIB, and will be using one soon! Thanks for the info and pictures. I can't wait to get my XRGB-3!
Hmm... I just checked one of my new SHVC-010 cables and there isn't a pin at position 3 (CSYNC/+12VDC for pal consoles). I checked to see what pin 9 on the 21 pin connector was connected to and found that it was connected to pin 9 on the SNES connector (composite video). SNES Pin 10 (+5VDC) is connected to pin 11 on the 21 pin connector (not connected on the XRGB). Hence, unless the SNES plug is opened, and pin position 9 is moved to pin position 3, the cable does not use CSYNC by default.darthcloud wrote:I have a lot of shvc-010 cable too and it's not using compoiste video as sync, it use composite sync from pin 4 of multiout.RGB32E wrote: That cable uses composite video as sync. I have several of those cables NIB, and will be using one soon! Thanks for the info and pictures. I can't wait to get my XRGB-3!
You are sure, I just check with my multimeter and pin 3 on multiout is connected to pin 9 on the RGB21 connector. Pin in the RGB 21 connector are easy to swap, are you sure your cable has not be modified? Because the RGB21 norm is Csync on pin 9 not composite video.RGB32E wrote:Hmm... I just checked one of my new SHVC-010 cables and there isn't a pin at position 3 (CSYNC/+12VDC for pal consoles). I checked to see what pin 9 on the 21 pin connector was connected to and found that it was connected to pin 9 on the SNES connector (composite video). SNES Pin 10 (+5VDC) is connected to pin 11 on the 21 pin connector (not connected on the XRGB). Hence, unless the SNES plug is opened, and pin position 9 is moved to pin position 3, the cable does not use CSYNC by default.darthcloud wrote:I have a lot of shvc-010 cable too and it's not using compoiste video as sync, it use composite sync from pin 4 of multiout.RGB32E wrote: That cable uses composite video as sync. I have several of those cables NIB, and will be using one soon! Thanks for the info and pictures. I can't wait to get my XRGB-3!
http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id= ... ndomultiav
Yup, I'm sure. The only Nintendo brand RGB cable I've encountered that had pin 3 wired was the Game Cube SCART cable, and that was for +12VDC, so just a single conductor, not a mini-coax... Depending upon how you number the SNES connector, pin 3 mirrors pin 9...darthcloud wrote:You are sure, I just check with my multimeter and pin 3 on multiout is connected to pin 9 on the RGB21 connector. Pin in the RGB 21 connector are easy to swap, are you sure your cable has not be modified? Because the RGB21 norm is Csync on pin 9 not composite video.
sorry now that I think about it, I might have reverved the pinout, but I wiil check that back once I get back homeRGB32E wrote:Yup, I'm sure. The only Nintendo brand RGB cable I've encountered that has pin 3 wired was the Game Cube SCART cable, and that was for +12VDC, so just a single conductor, not a mini-coax... Depending upon how you number the SNES connector, pin 3 mirrors pin 9...darthcloud wrote:You are sure, I just check with my multimeter and pin 3 on multiout is connected to pin 9 on the RGB21 connector. Pin in the RGB 21 connector are easy to swap, are you sure your cable has not be modified? Because the RGB21 norm is Csync on pin 9 not composite video.
.15-pin analog RGB terminal (15-pin mini D-SUB): Through the vertical sync output: 56Hz ~ 85Hz, H-sync: 31kHz ~ 75kHz (the maximum bandwidth of 162MHz but less)
RGB信号：0.7Vp-p(75Ω) RGB signal: 0.7Vp-p (75Ω)
同期信号：TTLレベル(セパレート同期) Sync signal: TTL level (sync separate)
解像度変換時の同期周波数と解像度は、下記の「解像度変換出力時の解像度仕様」を参照。 Synchronous frequency resolution and time resolution conversion, the following "resolution converted output resolution specifications" section.
24ピン・デジタルRGB端子(DVI-D端子)：スルー出力時 垂直同期：60Hz/75Hz、水平同期：24kHz～75kHz(ただし最大帯域幅162MHz以下) Pin 24 pin digital RGB (DVI-D terminal): Through the vertical sync output: 60Hz/75Hz, horizontal sync: 24kHz ~ 75kHz (the maximum bandwidth of 162MHz but less)
TMDS方式(シングルリンク) Scheme TMDS (single link)
映像信号：0.5Vp-p(50Ω) Video signal: 0.5Vp-p (50Ω)
解像度変換時の同期周波数と解像度は、下記の「解像度変換出力時の解像度仕様」を参照。 Synchronous frequency resolution and time resolution conversion, the following "resolution converted output resolution specifications" section.
darthcloud wrote:Just did the PCE RGB amp for the n64 and it's perfect way better than the one in gamesx wiki
I haven't tried myself quite yet... I'm waiting for the weekend to try.Artemio wrote:BTW, when testings Mario 64 I noticed that my N64 lost sync sometimes. I ended up placing the LM1881 to solve that issue in particular.
it doesn't matter, but you might want to use the updater included with the B0 firmware. In other words, install the B1 updater first, then install the B0 updater and use the later one for updating both banks.I have a couple of questions about the firmware update steps. In preperation for updating the XRGB from factory state, does it matter which order the firmware is updated? B1 before B0 + CPU/Ect? Is it safer to start with the B1 firmware since the risk in updating is less?
don't worry too much, nothing you can do wrong...Also, is the second checkbox on final step of the setup wizard used for lauching the updater program?
The B0 updater (not the actual FW, but the updater software) might be newer. No idea when Micomsoft last updated the B1 updater...I'd imagine that any common files for the installer would be the same right?
Hmm... I would think that since I installed the B0 package after the B1 package that the updater contained with the B1 package would be replaced/updated, right? Since there is only one updater executable.Fudoh wrote:The B0 updater (not the actual FW, but the updater software) might be newer. No idea when Micomsoft last updated the B1 updater...
Damn Tim, you know there are quite a few Americans out there who still lives in tents due to this shitty economy, and you're dropping loads on a single game which only last 20 min. Do you think it's fair? How much did you spend this time?
