B&O MX4/6/7000 - troubleshooting and general information

[Xaranar]

This is what I'm fairly sure is the horizontal deflection section of my chassis looks like. I think it's going to be one of the two sets of highlighted caps.

[SuicideShow]

I am trying to fix the geometry, yes, or at least improve it to acceptable levels, subjective as that may be. In that first picture, just below the two caps is a connector. Where does that connector go?

its going to the neckboard

[Xaranar]

I've ordered some larger value caps, so we shall see if my experiment bears fruit. I'm somewhat confident that the caps next to the linearity coil are the ones I need to replace, given how yours looks, and they are the largest value caps I could see in the area albeit nowhere near the value of the caps in your TV, being 220nf and 150nf respectively. I've bumped them up to 330 and 220 so we shall see what effect that has.

Come to think of it, I actually do have another problem with my MX8000 in that the picture jitters left to right ever so slightly, and not uniformly, each line seems to jitter independently of every other. If you get close to the screen you can see it easily, but it's not really noticeable when you're sat at a normal viewing distance. I have a Sony consumer CRT that does the same thing, but my PVM does not at all, it's rock solid. I don't know if it's just a thing with consumer CRTs or what, but it's something I'd like to fix if possible.

[Xaranar]

I've received the new capacitors and I have actually decided not to install them. Taking a look at the linearity on the MX8000, it doesn't suffer the same barrel distortion effect as the 7000 in that the squares to the left and right of the screen are the same size as the squares in the middle. The wavy horizontal lines I have been able to largely correct with service menu adjustments; a large part of my problem was incorrect vertical linearity as well. Here's a picture of Super Mario World looking crispyAF:

[Balleratt]

Mind sharing your MX8000 service menu settings, for what good it might do ? The barrel-roll effect on the MX8000 is much, much less vs the MX7000's I've had for sure.

[Kjatte]

I got a PAL MX7000 and when using a PAL Gamecube with the official RGB Scart cable the image is notably darker than composite input. Any way to fix this?

Also I would very much like to know if there is a way to disable the VisionClear light sensor? It dims the screen and only brightens it in direct sunlight. When shining a light into the sensor the brightness is perfect even with the RGB signal.

[Jb2k]

I have obtained a MX8000 and I have done a quick G2 adjustment, it seemingly were set too low judging from B&O G2 calibration screen. Just a tiny adjustment and the standby light went from yellow to green =) All good!

I've read that many prefer to disable the SVM (B&O VisionClear sharpness stuff), since it might bring a bit "too much" sharpness to the image, especially for 2D games. I tend to agree judging from a quick and dirty comparison with my MX7000. Disabling it on the MX8000 did make for a softer image more like the MX7000...HOWEVER! I also noticed that my MX7000 is significantly sharper vs the MX8000 (SVM deactivated) . And I don't think any calibration can make it on-par with the MX7000 sharpness, well as long as the SVM cable is detached that is.



Anyone experienced the same thing comparing the two sets?

Does anyone know where to find that G2 adjustment thingie on a MX8000?

[pryme]

Hi. I am going to buy a B&O MX4000.
Serial NO: 12653036.

I am wondering if this CRT can handle NTSC 60hz?

Thanks.

[Cisek]

I got a PAL MX7000 and when using a PAL Gamecube with the official RGB Scart cable the image is notably darker than composite input. Any way to fix this?

Also I would very much like to know if there is a way to disable the VisionClear light sensor? It dims the screen and only brightens it in direct sunlight. When shining a light into the sensor the brightness is perfect even with the RGB signal.

I'll open it today and check for some solution. This VisionClear is biggest problem for overall perfect image in MX7000 and MX6000. It is also the very first reason why people think that these tvs are dim and have weak colours! It is only because of some fucking light sensor, geez why did they even mounted it in the first place!

[Balleratt]

Hi. I am going to buy a B&O MX4000.
Serial NO: 12653036.

I am wondering if this CRT can handle NTSC 60hz?

Thanks.

Should do so with no problem. I had a MX4002 a few years back and it was no problem, not much difference between those two sets as far as I'm concerned, apart from the latter supporting the Masterlink function.

[pryme]

Should do so with no problem. I had a MX4002 a few years back and it was no problem, not much difference between those two sets as far as I'm concerned, apart from the latter supporting the Masterlink function.
[/quote]

Thank you for that info.

[Cisek]

I got a PAL MX7000 and when using a PAL Gamecube with the official RGB Scart cable the image is notably darker than composite input. Any way to fix this?

Also I would very much like to know if there is a way to disable the VisionClear light sensor? It dims the screen and only brightens it in direct sunlight. When shining a light into the sensor the brightness is perfect even with the RGB signal.

I'll open it today and check for some solution. This VisionClear is biggest problem for overall perfect image in MX7000 and MX6000. It is also the very first reason why people think that these tvs are dim and have weak colours! It is only because of some fucking light sensor, geez why did they even mounted it in the first place!

I thought that disconecting brightness sensor from chassis will do the work, but unfortunately it didn't. The tube just stayed dimmly lit like on default. There must be some fix though, anybody have idea? If not I guess I will have to mount some permanent led, but it will ruin MX7000 beatiful design.

[SuperSpongo]

You should try to find out what kind of brightness sensor is used. If you have a Multimeter, you can measure the output signal. If it outputs something like 0 to 10V, you could maybe replace the signal with a simple voltage divider or potentiometer.

If you don't have a Multimeter or don't feel like opening up your TV again just yet, you could also search for the service manual (I think the MX7000 one is available) and see if you can find it there.

[croy]

I've recently picked up a b&o av9000 and have been trying to access the service menu. I've tried bridging the service pins and using the menu 0 0 play command on the beolink 1000 remote but all I can get is the software version which shows its running version 1.0. I've also tried menu 1 1 play and shift text 1 1 play but so far no luck. Does anyone have any other ideas that I could try?

[pryme]

Hi,

When using component cables on my B&O MX4000 I've noticed that there is a faint 1-2 cm vertical line showing. Anyone know what causes that?

Thanks.

[H6rdc0re]

Did anyone ever find out what's causing the barrell effect on the MX7000 sets?

If it can be fixed we could have a very cheap but great set for retro gaming. My MX7000 looks really great but the barrell issue ruins it from using it for side scrolling games.

[Prodoomed]

Hello,

I just got myself a mx7000 sw1.1 but when the tv is on the right audio channel makes an incredibly loud sound wich I cannot turn off. The only way to make it stop is to unplug the speakers.

Left channel is fine, no issues there.

Does anybody has an idea? I cannot find the answer.

Thnx!

[Eggrock]

Hello this is my first post here.
I’ve had my MX4000 (1.1) for many years now to use with my consoles which are all supporting RGB either naturally or by mods. I never had any problem, I just push V.Tape on the remote and it’s on.

However I recently bought a NES console without RGB, i’m using AV cables with a scart adapter. And I just get a black picture, but the sound works.

I tried the console with a flat lcd screen that has scart and everything works so it has to be something with the TV.

What could be the problem here? Any help would be much appreciated.

I might say also that in TV-mode I don’t get the usual white noice, it’s also just black, if that has anything to do with it.

[Rafajcastaneda]

I got a PAL MX7000 and when using a PAL Gamecube with the official RGB Scart cable the image is notably darker than composite input. Any way to fix this?

Also I would very much like to know if there is a way to disable the VisionClear light sensor? It dims the screen and only brightens it in direct sunlight. When shining a light into the sensor the brightness is perfect even with the RGB signal.

I'll open it today and check for some solution. This VisionClear is biggest problem for overall perfect image in MX7000 and MX6000. It is also the very first reason why people think that these tvs are dim and have weak colours! It is only because of some fucking light sensor, geez why did they even mounted it in the first place!

I thought that disconecting brightness sensor from chassis will do the work, but unfortunately it didn't. The tube just stayed dimmly lit like on default. There must be some fix though, anybody have idea? If not I guess I will have to mount some permanent led, but it will ruin MX7000 beatiful design.

Did you find any solution about this? I think the same, maybe could put a led And feed it with the TV source itself?

[Xtr3m3z]

Hi all,

I picked up an av9000 last weekend and absolutely love it.

Unfortunately though, no matter what settings I try, the tv won't display rgb from game consoles, only composite over scart.

One of the consoles I'm using is a ps2, which outputs rgb to my pvm and trinitron without any problems. However, when connected to the av9000 with the same ps2 settings/cable, I'm pretty sure it's only composite (adjusting the video settings on the ps2 from rgb to component makes no difference to the picture).

I've tried using "decoder" and other settings I've seen used on other b&o models, but nothing seems to change.

Does anyone know how to change the source from composite to rgb?

Thank you in advance

[kamiboy]

The 9000 is an older model, I always thought it had some of the most pleasing 90's B&O design aesthetics, at least in the brochure pictures, as I have never seen on in person. Does it have several SCART inputs on the back? If so try them all, and I think perhaps some B&O sets only offer RGB on specific SCART inputs.

Usually a certain voltage on a certain SCART pin is how TV sets are signalled to enter into RGB mode. Try to measure voltage on said pin to make sure voltage is being provided, if not the problem is with the cable setup.

[Gigioromba]

Hello everyone,
I'm having a problem on my CRT (Bang & Olufsen MX4000).
The tube is Philips and the chassis is Thomson (not B&O), software version is 1.0.
The CRT has been completely recapped and is working perfectly except for one defect that I cannot identify.
The problem is not easy to spot, I had to find some patterns to recreate it consistently.

In the 100 IRE test pattern of the 240p test suite, if I select 100 - 140 IRE and set 110 IRE it creates a darker trace on the right of the white rectangle, as in the picture 1 (the trace is also on the left but much lighter).




Also if I have a long single-color scanline that changes to another color, the latter will be lightened. This I have a hard time capturing in the image (picture 2) and i know it is not clear, but here you can see that on the green background, the black, red and blue lines leave a lighter green trace.




I was able to mote it better black on white by decreasing brightness and contrast here in picture 3.
Again, the effect can also be recreated on the left but much less pronounced.




The flaw is very seldom noticeable without trying to recreate it manually (for example, the platforms that move up and down in Super Mario World have a long black edge up and down, and because they are moving they make it slightly noticeable). I just can't figure out what it could be, though.
I tried tweaking all the options available in the Setup and in the Service Menu, tried to variate the G2 signal, but at this point I am pretty sure it is an hardware problem because the improvements are minimal with these options.

Any suggestion?

[gravitone]

I was just tinkering with my MX7000 over the last week and was surprised to find out that it will sync nicely to a 70hz 200 modeline.
Perfect for those mode 13h DOS games.



Here's some duke nukem II footage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HX03D6lX41E

[gravitone]

I've been able to push it has far as 17.5khz with a 288 line 60hz mode, but you can tell it struggling to keep the image stable.


Fun to experiment with though, It allows perfect fullscreen 2x integer scaled gameboy games for example, I added some fake scanlines in this case.

[Enlighted17]

Hello everyone,

I just got a MX4002 and I also got a wall mount of type WB4114.
The wall mount came in 2 parts that should actually be connected to each other.

Does anyone have such a stand, and perhaps some pictures of how the 2 parts are actually connected to each other and how it is attached to the TV?

Thanks!