Console --> Arcade monitor adapter (AVAILABLE, see 1st post)

[rcaido]

Did you try the power resistor?

Sorry im new at this, which one is the power resistor & which one is sync jumpers?

I installed that white thing w/ 2 metals on its side to the screw terminal...I take it that is the power resistor...What is the sync jumpers then?

[antron]

from the manual:

There are a set of jumpers located next to the SCART socket labled TTL and 75.

75 on, TTL off = Terminated composite video. Default.
75 off, TTL off = Unterminated composite video. Try this if you have any sync related problems.
75 off, TTL on = TTL composite sync or TTL horizontal sync.

[rcaido]

Ok the two showcase cabs are working now, i took out those jumpers...Doesn't look as nice as the small neo, color seems a bit washed up, im guessing its the monitors for both? But its working which makes me so happy...

Now the only thing left is the atomiswave sd...
Without turning on the console the monitor begins to flick like powering on & off/flashing, i turn on the machine & stops momentarily & then begins flashing again...Any ideas? Thanks

[viletim]

Ok the two showcase cabs are working now, i took out those jumpers...Doesn't look as nice as the small neo, color seems a bit washed up, im guessing its the monitors for both? But its working which makes me so happy...

If you turned up the brightness control (the little blue one), you should return it to its original position. It can turn three times before it gets to the end. Note that the picture will drop out at the extreme low end.

Now the only thing left is the atomiswave sd...
Without turning on the console the monitor begins to flick like powering on & off/flashing, i turn on the machine & stops momentarily & then begins flashing again...Any ideas? Thanks

When there is no console connected, there is normally no output from the adapter...
Check the red power light. It should be on and not blinking/fluttering.

[rcaido]

Ok the two showcase cabs are working now, i took out those jumpers...Doesn't look as nice as the small neo, color seems a bit washed up, im guessing its the monitors for both? But its working which makes me so happy...

If you turned up the brightness control (the little blue one), you should return it to its original position. It can turn three times before it gets to the end. Note that the picture will drop out at the extreme low end.

Now the only thing left is the atomiswave sd...
Without turning on the console the monitor begins to flick like powering on & off/flashing, i turn on the machine & stops momentarily & then begins flashing again...Any ideas? Thanks

When there is no console connected, there is normally no output from the adapter...
Check the red power light. It should be on and not blinking/fluttering.

Thanks the picture looks better after doing some adjustments, not as crisp as the other monitor but i think it has more to w/ the monitor i have on the showcase..

As for the Atomiswave, yeah its always blinking the red power light, even before i turn on the console, as soon as i turn the machine on it start blinking. Any ideas? Thanks

[viletim]

As for the Atomiswave, yeah its always blinking the red power light, even before i turn on the console, as soon as i turn the machine on it start blinking. Any ideas? Thanks

The 12v rail is unstable, so the power supply is probably faulty.

[emphatic]

The 12v rail is unstable, so the power supply is probably faulty.

Known issue with Wei-Ya PSUs running off a power converter.

[Wonderbanana]

The 12v rail is unstable, so the power supply is probably faulty.

Known issue with Wei-Ya PSUs running off a power converter.

As I said above, try and bag a 100v step down - might solve it.

[rcaido]

Faulty power supply? Can you guys recommend what power supply i would need to get for the adapter work on my atomiswave SD? Thanks

[emphatic]

Faulty power supply? Can you guys recommend what power supply i would need to get for the adapter work on my atomiswave SD? Thanks

It's not faulty, but it's not working optimally due to lack of a 100v power input. Your best bet is trying to find a x->100v stepdown as the Wei-Ya supply will work very well then. You could pull it out and put in another supply instead, but I don't know what to recommend.

[DeepThoughts]

Does viletim have an amp such as this to accept component input? I have the ntsc wii in mind...

[brentsg]

My gadget arrived today. I just wanted to thank viletim for listening to people like me whine. Thanks for adding the JPN21 RGB option.

[Almighty]

viletim, you still have one for sale with a double RGB (ntsc-j/pal) scart.

send you a pm

[rugdoctor]

Hi Tim,

opened my parcel today and its missing the J-RGB attachment. Can you send me the attachment and instructions on how to attach it?

Cheers

edit: Got the adapter today, so simple, plug and play...

[kebrank]

I'm wondering if there will be a new version with more features. It would be great to add BNC out (R,G,B,C Sync/H/V Sync) so the adapter could be used to connect euro/japanese scart cables to sony, nec and other pro monitors besides arcade monitors. I know there is already another device that does this but it requires power and it would be better to have one board for everything. \o/.k.

[grobda]

Just tried mine with a saturn, graphics were shadowing a little but setting jumpers near the scart to '75 off, TTL off = Unterminated composite video' sorted it.

sound is a bit crappy (quite tinny) but think my cab loom may have speaker(-) wired to ground, will investigate further.

got some saturn pads incoming to hack, hope to have it running properly by the weekend.

overall im impressed, the saturn looks excellent through the cabs screen.

[viletim]

sound is a bit crappy (quite tinny) but think my cab loom may have speaker(-) wired to ground, will investigate further.

Investigate sooner rather than later, a speaker terminal tied to ground may damage the speaker.

[tomatous]

mmmh... interesting. Thanks for clearing things up I'm still undecided about the adapter's layout as I have lots of games on my Japanese consoles. The problem would be making a 360 Japanese scart cable as I'm terrible soldering.

Yeah, so go with a VGA and use your Emotia with the Scart->JAMMA. Or am I missing something?

Please excuse my lack of knowledge. Does the "Super Emotia" have a SCART output? If using VGA it is 360 (VGA)-> Emotia-> ? Is there a VGA to SCART cable that would work with Tim's Jamma adapter from the Super Emotia?

Again apologies for the confusion..

[Trevor spencer]

Its 360 -> VGA -> Emotia -> 4x BNC Cable to RCA RGBS Scart Adapter -> Tims Adapter -> Screen

I think these work ok

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Component-Video-R ... 3a6526ee0b

Also these might carry the video but id need someone else to confirm that

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BNC-MALE-PLUG-RCA ... 4cf5c16f1e

[tomatous]

Thank you for the quick reply. Now I just hope Tim's adapter is still available.

[emphatic]

You do this because you want 240p, right? Because if you can live with 480i you can just get a scart cable for your 360 instead and it will work superbly with the Scart->JAMMA.

[Trevor spencer]

TBH i think 480I looks great via RGB scart on 360

[tomatous]

My goal is to obtain 240p, but I will check both to see which looks best on the 15hz monitor. Still waiting to hear back from Tim, I hope these are still available.

[rugdoctor]

Thought I might post a video of Tim's ver2.0 adapter in action. Pretty happy with the video and audio amplification and highly recommend it to anyone.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/61769978@N ... hotostream

and like tomatous say...240p ftw, but unfortunately this can only be done through a scaler@480p output then deinterlacer (super emotia) outputing RGB to Tims adapter.

Sometimes it is just easier to fire up the old saturn or playstation1/2 or pc-engine and get RGB@240p that way.

[Animaitor]

Sometimes it is just easier to fire up the old saturn or playstation1/2 or pc-engine and get RGB@240p that way.

Yeah but that way you are missing on all the great shmups that are coming on the 360.

[rugdoctor]

Sometimes it is just easier to fire up the old saturn or playstation1/2 or pc-engine and get RGB@240p that way.

Yeah but that way you are missing on all the great shmups that are coming on the 360.

Short answer: I got it sorted.

Long answer:

Got the M'soft VGA out @ 480p/720p -> SLG3000 -> 4:3 720p/1080i HD CRT to take care of that in a permanently tated naomi universal.

The OKbaby unit I have on my video suppose to take care of all the horizontal games, mostly fighters, a bit like a trip down memory lane.

Just the effort to get the non-flickering screen, while worth the time, is messy to say the least.

My rant is coming, so skip if not interested...

The older consoles just seems to be more focussed on gameplay and pin-point conversion. No DTS support, no HD, no online, no achievement unlocking...and other "added value" like graphics filtering/smoothing. Just what you expect from the original game pcb, probably with the exception of stereophonic sound which I thoroughly enjoy and loading screens which I do not enjoy (unless it has a cute animation that goes nowhere when you mash buttons). All this straight out of the box without any additional scalers, deinterlacers, graphic processing. You can certainly argue saying its the game programmers who decide what stays and goes in a game conversion, but it just so happens all the great conversions are on the older consoles.

End of rant, thanks for listening/reading.

[Sparda]

Planned is and active controller expansion board which doesn't require hacking pads or external encoders. There is a video input on the connector which would allow for an on screen display which could be useful to set up and load/store controller configurations.

Hi Tim, any news on your controller project ?

[viletim]

Hi Tim, any news on your controller project ? :mrgreen:

It's ticking along... at about half way through the development cycle right now.

It takes a parallel input, that is one button per wire of 30 switches (enough for any arcade control panel, even mahjong) 24 of which come from the JAMMA harness via the box header. The other six from an assortment of kick harness headers. I've got CPS1, CPS2, MK1 and MK2 at the moment. I think that's all of them really - unless I add that insane Namco thing.

The output be parallel, or can emulate a number of console controller protocols depending on what is plugged into the output which takes the form of another box header. I will have cables available to connect between the output and the game console itself.

I will definitely have support for:
Sega Master System
Sega Mega Drive
Super Nintendo
Sony Playstation 1 and 2
Nintendo Gamecube
Standard USB Joystick
Sony Playstation 3
Microsoft Xbox

I may have support for:
PS/2 Keyboard
Neo Geo
PC Engine

I will probably not support:
Sega Saturn (unable to obtain proprietary connector)
Sega Dreamcast (unable to obtain proprietary connector)
Microsoft Xbox 360 (encrypted)
Nintendo Wii (use Gamecube port instead, no need to wave an arcade control panel around in the air)

And the parallel output which I have previously mentioned. By parallel output I mean the terminal block board can be connected here for a one wire per button output like Neo Geo. It sounds a bit useless, parallel input to a parallel output, but it makes sense when you consider hacked game pads can have their buttons remapped, and third party controller encoders (such as the "PS360" Xbox 360 interface board that somebody was talking about a while ago) can be totally integrated.

Controls can be configured easily with an on screen menu system. Internal software (some like to call it firmware) will be upgradable by USB. When I say console support I mean for two players, just to make it clear.

That's all off the top of my head, and should give you a general idea of what to expect.

[viletim]

I also have a component (YPrPb) to RGB converter in progress. For the Americans and others who have difficulty finding SCART leads.

[ZOM]

^Sounds interesting, I think I could use one of those if it's able to just convert the colorspace.