Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Dochartaigh]

Is the need for degaussing after a rotate something that happens immediately, or only if you leave it rotated for a long period of time?

Yes, when you rotate some of them you'll immediately see that the colors are a little bit off (usually only on a small portion of the screen). This usually goes away after a on/off cycle with degauss. Some might take a bit more.

[Ikaruga11]

If I have a Mega Everdrive v7 (which can play Master System, Genesis and 32X games), do I still need a Power Base Converter on my Genesis to play Master System games? What about the 32X add-on if I have 32X games on my Mega Everdrive?

[Syntax]

You don't need the powerbase, you do need the 32x.

[Ikaruga11]

You don't need the powerbase, you do need the 32x.

Thanks. I also heard Master System games cannot be played if you have the 32X peripheral attached. But that's just because the cartridge slot only allows for Genesis and 32X cartridges, correct? If I have a MegaEverDrive v7, I can play Master System games on a Genesis with the 32X?

Does the 32X improve the RGB output of Genesis / Master System games?
Does the Genesis hardware have better RGB than the Master System?
Any MS games I can't play on the Genesis?

EDIT: For anyone interested, it seems that all Victor WonderMegas and JVC X'Eyes have the TMSS screen on bootup.

[Syntax]

Composite video output rrom the 32x is the best you can get.
RGB is all the same once the megadrive is modded correctly.

[Ikaruga11]

Composite video output rrom the 32x is the best you can get.
RGB is all the same once the megadrive is modded correctly.

But the Mega Drive outputs RGB out of the box.

[SavagePencil]

Any MS games I can't play on the Genesis?

A handful of games do not work (F16 Fighting Falcon). Other issues you will run into will be that some SMS games don't work with the Genesis controller (but many of them have been patched for Everdrive): http://www.smspower.org/forums/12093-Li ... esHardware

Lastly, 3D glasses require the card slot on the Power Base Convertor.

[Kez]

If I have a MegaEverDrive v7, I can play Master System games on a Genesis with the 32X?

No, the 32X intercepts some signals that the power base converter/MDX7 use for "master system" mode. The 32X must be removed to play them.

[Ikaruga11]

Any MS games I can't play on the Genesis?

A handful of games do not work (F16 Fighting Falcon). Other issues you will run into will be that some SMS games don't work with the Genesis controller (but many of them have been patched for Everdrive): http://www.smspower.org/forums/12093-Li ... esHardware

Lastly, 3D glasses require the card slot on the Power Base Convertor.

So is it worth getting a Sega Master System to get the most out of the Sega Master System hardware? If it is, which specific model and revision should I get?

If I have a MegaEverDrive v7, I can play Master System games on a Genesis with the 32X?

No, the 32X intercepts some signals that the power base converter/MDX7 use for "master system" mode. The 32X must be removed to play them.

Thank you. Well that sucks. Maybe we could mod the 32X to not intercept those signals.

[SavagePencil]

So is it worth getting a Sega Master System to get the most out of the Sega Master System hardware? If it is, which specific model and revision should I get?

F-16 Fighting Falcon is a wretched game, so I don't think you're missing out on much there. I would only recommend getting a dedicated SMS if you are a big fan of the SMS. I'd explore what you can with the Everdrive on Genesis--which is like 99.9%--and then see if it warrants the investment.

As mentioned earlier, the games that are incompatible with the Genesis controller have patches available which you can apply onto your Everdrive. You're in good shape there.

[Kez]

Thank you. Well that sucks. Maybe we could mod the 32X to not intercept those signals.

Someone has apparently done such a mod on Sega 16

[Ikaruga11]

Thank you. Well that sucks. Maybe we could mod the 32X to not intercept those signals.

Someone has apparently done such a mod on Sega 16

Thanks.

I've done some research and it seems that the newer white 3-button Genesis controllers have better D-Pads and buttons than the original red 3-button Genesis controllers. Is this true?

[Dochartaigh]

I've done some research and it seems that the newer white 3-button Genesis controllers have better D-Pads and buttons than the original red 3-button Genesis controllers. Is this true?

Why not get a 6-button? I like the MK-1653 the best anymore.

[ASDR]

As mentioned earlier, the games that are incompatible with the Genesis controller have patches available which you can apply onto your Everdrive. You're in good shape there.

Just get a Master System controller. They are cheap, work on the MD and it's nice to use the authentic controller. Not the biggest fan of the dpad, but the buttons feel really nice, very deep travel.

[SavagePencil]

As mentioned earlier, the games that are incompatible with the Genesis controller have patches available which you can apply onto your Everdrive. You're in good shape there.

Just get a Master System controller. They are cheap, work on the MD and it's nice to use the authentic controller. Not the biggest fan of the dpad, but the buttons feel really nice, very deep travel.

My Master System stick of choice:

https://segaretro.org/XE-1_Pro

[Ikaruga11]

I'm actually thinking about getting a Master System just for Master System games, and possibly any backwards compatibility it may have with even older Sega consoles. I heard that some MS games don't work on the original model, and the second model displays more picture information on a few MS games. Is this true?

I actually just bought two 6-button Sega controllers for the new Genesis games that require them.

[naz]

Hello, here is a question about consumer CRT:

I have a sony 29kv310 (and no memory of any other CRT). The image and colors are great, except for a slight vibration on the image. I only notice because my eyes hurt a bit after playing, so I try to see upclose if I had too much sharpness or brightness or whatever. The only weird thing I notice was this vibration (it looks like a fast zoom in and zoom out, but a very tiny amount).

The question is: do all CRT behave like this?? or does mine have something weird, if so... is there a known fix???

Regards!

[creamygarlicdip]

for the xrgb scaler, is it just line doubling or tripling? and the scanlines are just adding darkened lines?

I ask because i was curious what the visual difference between it and just running an emulator with scanlines would be?

[Xyga]

for the xrgb scaler, is it just line doubling or tripling? and the scanlines are just adding darkened lines?

- The XRGB 1, 2, 2+, 3 and DISPL devices are all linedoublers.
- 3 adds the ability to do real scaling in an alternate mode but without scanlines simulation and adding a bit of lag.
- Mini 'Frame Meister' can linedouble but is primarily a scaler, with scanlines this time, and also a bit of lag.
And yes the scanlines simulation is just darkening lines (you could even say blanking when the pixels are hidden 100% by darkest settings).
1 doesn't come with built-in scanlines simulation (you can use an external generator), 2 has only one darkness setting around 50%, DISPL same as 2 but even darker, 2+ has four levels, 3 and Mini have fully adjustable 0~100%.
The OSSC improves on the linedouble-only XRGB concept and expands the possibilities with a greater variety of input signals and line multiple modes up to x5, it practically made the entire XRGB line become obsolete.
The Mini remains a better choice for consoles like the PS2 thanks of its great full deinterlacing ability, and even for older consoles a select few might prefer it over the OSSC because of its more reliable compatibility with HDTVs, even though it adds a bit of lag and is more 'work' for the user.

edit; oh and I forgot about the peculiar XPC-4 but you can read more in Fudoh's articles here: http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/micomsoft.html
don't forget to check his main site if you haven't yet.

I ask because i was curious what the visual difference between it and just running an emulator with scanlines would be?

There are different ways and options to simulate a scanlined look with an emulator, one similar to what the XRGB doublers do (rare), overlays (common but misused), or pixel shaders (most popular today), it's even possible to use an external 'scanlines generator' like the SLG3000 assuming VGA is used for connectivity.
All of these solutions look more or less different.
The display used can also influence the results (for instance when it has to stretch and therefore rescale a linedoubled output).
The XRGBs also themselves have their own little differences in output looks, quality and quirks.

[FBX]

And yes, VA3/VA4 has the best stock sound quality.

Apparently the JVC X'Eye has the sharpest RGB image quality of all consoles that can play Mega Drive/Genesis games.

Just to touch on these two points, there is some debate on this. The VA2 is considered to have the best sound, unless the game drives the volume really loud, and then the VA3 or VA4 become the better choice. However, you can replace the filtering caps on the VA3/4 per Ace's suggestion and make them have the same fidelity of the VA2 in combination with the superior amp circuitry. Then they 'really' become the best revisions to have.

With regard to RGB, I get razor sharp RGB on either my VA2 or VA3. Granted, I cut the subcarrier trace to remove jail bars, but still, I've got no complaints about the sharpness of the RGB picture on these guys.

[jayde6]

With regard to RGB, I get razor sharp RGB on either my VA2 or VA3. Granted, I cut the subcarrier trace to remove jail bars, but still, I've got no complaints about the sharpness of the RGB picture on these guys.

Is cutting the subcarrier trace a good solution for VA4 jailbars as well? I get them in groupings of 7 or 8 bars and then a gap of the same width back and forth across the whole screen. I'm using HDRetrovision cables into an OSSC, no obviously bad caps (but they haven't been replaced), and an original power adapter.

[ASDR]

With regard to RGB, I get razor sharp RGB on either my VA2 or VA3. Granted, I cut the subcarrier trace to remove jail bars, but still, I've got no complaints about the sharpness of the RGB picture on these guys.

Is cutting the subcarrier trace a good solution for VA4 jailbars as well? I get them in groupings of 7 or 8 bars and then a gap of the same width back and forth across the whole screen. I'm using HDRetrovision cables into an OSSC, no obviously bad caps (but they haven't been replaced), and an original power adapter.

I did it on my PAL VA4 and it did not fix the jailbars. Looks slightly better, though, especially on the blue channel.

[Kilmaattikahn]

My CRT monitor's screen (consumer Trinitron, nothing fancy) goes black for a fraction of a second then back on again, sometimes with a barely audible click but more often silently. It happens in bursts, it can go a whole day working just fine and then in the space of an 5 minutes it may happen like 20 times. Easy to fix in a repair store or not worth the hassle?

[Einzelherz]

Hello, here is a question about consumer CRT:

I have a sony 29kv310 (and no memory of any other CRT). The image and colors are great, except for a slight vibration on the image. I only notice because my eyes hurt a bit after playing, so I try to see upclose if I had too much sharpness or brightness or whatever. The only weird thing I notice was this vibration (it looks like a fast zoom in and zoom out, but a very tiny amount).

The question is: do all CRT behave like this?? or does mine have something weird, if so... is there a known fix???

Regards!

If you play 480i content there can be some vibration, but is more up/down. This is the case on consoles after PS1/Saturn.

In/out shaking is not something I've noticed before. It could be the TV, but it could be other things, too.

Does it happen on other sources like DVDs? Do you have many devices plugged into the same outlet?

[FBX]

With regard to RGB, I get razor sharp RGB on either my VA2 or VA3. Granted, I cut the subcarrier trace to remove jail bars, but still, I've got no complaints about the sharpness of the RGB picture on these guys.

Is cutting the subcarrier trace a good solution for VA4 jailbars as well? I get them in groupings of 7 or 8 bars and then a gap of the same width back and forth across the whole screen. I'm using HDRetrovision cables into an OSSC, no obviously bad caps (but they haven't been replaced), and an original power adapter.

If it's a USA model, it should get rid of them. However, you must cut near the VDP side of the trace for it to work, because the trace itself is what is causing the jail bar interference. On the underside of the board, I cut just after the via that goes to pin 50 of the VDP.

[Ikaruga11]

With regard to RGB, I get razor sharp RGB on either my VA2 or VA3. Granted, I cut the subcarrier trace to remove jail bars, but still, I've got no complaints about the sharpness of the RGB picture on these guys.

Is cutting the subcarrier trace a good solution for VA4 jailbars as well? I get them in groupings of 7 or 8 bars and then a gap of the same width back and forth across the whole screen. I'm using HDRetrovision cables into an OSSC, no obviously bad caps (but they haven't been replaced), and an original power adapter.

If it's a USA model, it should get rid of them. However, you must cut near the VDP side of the trace for it to work, because the trace itself is what is causing the jail bar interference. On the underside of the board, I cut just after the via that goes to pin 50 of the VDP.

So you have to cut the composite trace to get rid of potential jailbars? Using fully-shielded high quality RGB CSync cables won't get rid of jailbars?

[FBX]

So you have to cut the composite trace to get rid of potential jailbars? Using fully-shielded high quality RGB CSync cables won't get rid of jailbars?

Correct. The interference happens on the board of the Genesis itself, so no amount of healthy cabling will fix it. I did make a mod board that reroutes the subcarrier signal away from the RGB lines, but it still requires cutting that trace. There's just no getting around that unless you completely bypass the CXA chip entirely. Even then I bet trace cutting might still be required.

[jayde6]

If it's a USA model, it should get rid of them. However, you must cut near the VDP side of the trace for it to work, because the trace itself is what is causing the jail bar interference. On the underside of the board, I cut just after the via that goes to pin 50 of the VDP.

It is a USA model, is there any tips on finding pin 50 on the underside. I'm having trouble finding the trace I should cut.

Thanks for all the help.

[ASDR]

If it's a USA model, it should get rid of them. However, you must cut near the VDP side of the trace for it to work, because the trace itself is what is causing the jail bar interference. On the underside of the board, I cut just after the via that goes to pin 50 of the VDP.

It is a USA model, is there any tips on finding pin 50 on the underside. I'm having trouble finding the trace I should cut.

Thanks for all the help.

Continuity test from a multimeter? I actually cut the trace topside. It's a bit nerve wracking as there are others nearby, but you can exchange risk for speed if you just slowly whittle it down instead of trying to slash it in one go. Good luck!

[jayde6]

Continuity test from a multimeter? I actually cut the trace topside. It's a bit nerve wracking as there are others nearby, but you can exchange risk for speed if you just slowly whittle it down instead of trying to slash it in one go. Good luck!

Yeah those traces are super close up top, if it comes to that I might have to get a jewelers loupe ha. Continuity test is great idea, I'll have to give that a shot tomorrow.

Thanks for the tip.