gscartsw / gscartsw_lite / gcompsw switches support thread

[evil_ash_xero]

So far, I am loving these gcompsw's. Just makes things so much easier.

I do have one issue, and I wanted to ask about it. When I use a powered splitter, the picture is constantly flickering. Now, when a system is turned on this will stop. However, sometimes when a game is
loading or something, it will happen for a moment. I can avoid this issue with a non powered splitter, but I really want to use a powered repeater. I've used two different splitters, and I have the same problem.

Is there any kind of powered splitter that doesn't do this? Or is this just the nature of the beast?

Also, is there any kind of "cable management box" that this would fit in, and would allow the cables to go in OK? I use Bluelounge on many other things, but this is too large for it. At the same time, the cords wouldn't fit in anyway. It just looks kind of wild with all the component cables going into it. It doesn't help that I'm using HD Retrovision cables, and all of the cables are colored. It sticks out like a sore thumb. Obviously, this is much less important than my other question.

[superg]

So far, I am loving these gcompsw's. Just makes things so much easier.

I do have one issue, and I wanted to ask about it. When I use a powered splitter, the picture is constantly flickering. Now, when a system is turned on this will stop. However, sometimes when a game is
loading or something, it will happen for a moment. I can avoid this issue with a non powered splitter, but I really want to use a powered repeater. I've used two different splitters, and I have the same problem.

Is there any kind of powered splitter that doesn't do this? Or is this just the nature of the beast?

This is issue with your retrotink rgb2comp converter. A combination of logic high on sync line when everything is turned on and gcompsw implementation details on how it searches for sync. This is safe to ignore.
Or, if you don't use rgb2comp, it could be something else. Powered splitter in your output chain shouldn't affect gcompsw.
EDIT2: Why do you need spltters, can't you just utilize both gcompsw outputs at the same time?

[evil_ash_xero]

So far, I am loving these gcompsw's. Just makes things so much easier.

I do have one issue, and I wanted to ask about it. When I use a powered splitter, the picture is constantly flickering. Now, when a system is turned on this will stop. However, sometimes when a game is
loading or something, it will happen for a moment. I can avoid this issue with a non powered splitter, but I really want to use a powered repeater. I've used two different splitters, and I have the same problem.

Is there any kind of powered splitter that doesn't do this? Or is this just the nature of the beast?

This is issue with your retrotink rgb2comp converter. A combination of logic high on sync line when everything is turned on and gcompsw implementation details on how it searches for sync. This is safe to ignore.
Or, if you don't use rgb2comp, it could be something else. Powered splitter in your output chain shouldn't affect gcompsw.
EDIT2: Why do you need spltters, can't you just utilize both gcompsw outputs at the same time?

I have to use one, since the distance is so far between setups. I'm using it more as a repeater than a splitter. It's a bit complicated. If it's safe to ignore, then that's fine. It just caught my attention with all the fiickering.

[superg]

I have to use one, since the distance is so far between setups. I'm using it more as a repeater than a splitter. It's a bit complicated. If it's safe to ignore, then that's fine. It just caught my attention with all the fiickering.

When I said it's safe to ignore, I meant that for case if you use retrotink rgb2comp converter in one of your gcompsw inputs.
If you don't use rgb2comp and use a repeater after gcompsw (between gcompsw and your TV) it could be something else.

Here is the test I would like you to perform to identify the potential issue:
Physically disconnect every gcompsw input. Connect all your inputs one by one (keep the consoles off) and see when the issue appears. Basically you're trying to figure out of any of the consoles is contributing to the problem.

[evil_ash_xero]

I have to use one, since the distance is so far between setups. I'm using it more as a repeater than a splitter. It's a bit complicated. If it's safe to ignore, then that's fine. It just caught my attention with all the fiickering.

When I said it's safe to ignore, I meant that for case if you use retrotink rgb2comp converter in one of your gcompsw inputs.
If you don't use rgb2comp and use a repeater after gcompsw (between gcompsw and your TV) it could be something else.

Here is the test I would like you to perform to identify the potential issue:
Physically disconnect every gcompsw input. Connect all your inputs one by one (keep the consoles off) and see when the issue appears. Basically you're trying to figure out of any of the consoles is contributing to the problem.

Well actually, if I just unplug the repeater (from the the electrical outlet), the issue stops. So, it's definitely an issue with the powered repeater/splitter. I've tried two different ones, with the same effect. I have had all the consoles unplugged from the electric outlets, and I sill have this problem with the splitter (while it's powered). Like, no system will be powered, but you'll still get the flickering on the screen.
There are absolutely no problems with the switches, unless a powered switch/repeater is put in between them. But I am doing that because there such a great distance between the switches. About 14 feet.
I guess I could always get a third switch, and put it in between. But that's a bit costly.

EDIT: I didn't even know that Retrotink thing existed. Does that do the same job as a CSY-2100? It looks it, but I just wanted to make sure. I have a lot of useless equipment, due to not asking enough questions.

[superg]

I have to use one, since the distance is so far between setups. I'm using it more as a repeater than a splitter. It's a bit complicated. If it's safe to ignore, then that's fine. It just caught my attention with all the fiickering.

When I said it's safe to ignore, I meant that for case if you use retrotink rgb2comp converter in one of your gcompsw inputs.
If you don't use rgb2comp and use a repeater after gcompsw (between gcompsw and your TV) it could be something else.

Here is the test I would like you to perform to identify the potential issue:
Physically disconnect every gcompsw input. Connect all your inputs one by one (keep the consoles off) and see when the issue appears. Basically you're trying to figure out of any of the consoles is contributing to the problem.

Well actually, if I just unplug the repeater (from the the electrical outlet), the issue stops. So, it's definitely an issue with the powered repeater/splitter. I've tried two different ones, with the same effect. I have had all the consoles unplugged from the electric outlets, and I sill have this problem with the splitter (while it's powered).
There are absolutely no problems with the switches, unless a powered switch/repeater is put in between them. But I am doing that because there such a great distance between the switches. About 14 feet.

EDIT: I didn't even know that Retrotink thing existed. Does that do the same job as a CSY-2100? It looks it, but I just wanted to make sure. I have a lot of useless equipment, due to not asking enough questions.

Hmm, interesting that you have two repeaters with the same problem. If you exclude the switch from the chain and connect a console directly to the powered on repeater, does it still show the issue? I wonder why repeater drops the signal...
Also, when you're in parts of game and you see those drops, does gcompsw light quickly blinks?

[evil_ash_xero]

I'll have to check about the blinking. However, I have a another repeater/splitter that one of the gcompsw's are hooked into, that runs into one of my TVs. It doesn't have any issues. But if I use the same exact splitter between the switches, the problem pops up. It is a bit odd. It's just if I put something between the switches, that's when the issue arises. And only if the repeater is plugged into the power outlet. That's why I was asking if there is a repeater that you know of that does not cause this. I've used a Shinybow and a Key Digital. If I use something passive, the issue doesn't arise.

It reminds me a bit of how so many powered splitters cause that weird "flash" in certain Mega Drive games, where passive ones don't. The Shinybow is the only powered one that doesn't cause that. The Key Digital does.

[superg]

I'll have to check about the blinking. However, I have a another repeater/splitter, that one of the gcompsw's are hooked into, that runs into one of my TVs. It doesn't have any issues. But if I use the same exact splitter between the switches, the problem pops up. It is a bit odd. It's just if I put something between the switches, that's when the issue arises. And only if the repeater is plugged into the power outlet. That's why I was asking if there is a repeater that you know of that does not cause this. I've used a Shinybow and a Key Digital.

Ok, so if you have it between the switches it's a different scenario as you have the splitter as an input for your other switch. What could be happening in that case is that the splitter drops the signal or outputs something other then logic low on the sync line even when all the consoles are turned off.

[evil_ash_xero]

I'll have to check about the blinking. However, I have a another repeater/splitter, that one of the gcompsw's are hooked into, that runs into one of my TVs. It doesn't have any issues. But if I use the same exact splitter between the switches, the problem pops up. It is a bit odd. It's just if I put something between the switches, that's when the issue arises. And only if the repeater is plugged into the power outlet. That's why I was asking if there is a repeater that you know of that does not cause this. I've used a Shinybow and a Key Digital.

Ok, so if you have it between the switches it's a different scenario as you have the splitter as an input for your other switch. What could be happening in that case is that the splitter drops the signal or outputs something other then logic low on the sync line even when all the consoles are turned off.

That's what I was thinking. I was just curious if you, or anyone knew of a repeater that wouldn't cause this, that I could put between the switches.
And yeah, there's zero issues with using a switch as an input for the TV. It's just when it's between the switches.

I may start a thread to see if anyone knows of one.

[psxswiss]

Hi Superg, Hi All,

Just modded my Super Famicom Jr (Japanese) with a RGB bypass design by Borti4938. https://github.com/borti4938/SNES_RGB_Bypass
The installation went well, I have a great and sharp image. Connected directly to my PVM via a RGB cable with CSYNC is awesome.

I have a problem when going through the gscartsw (version with VGA port). The gscartsw switch to the right input, but I have not image. I just have two white lines on top of the monitor!
With sync stripper ON on the gscartsw
https://ibb.co/JvKjGss
With Sync Stripper OFF on the gscartsw
https://ibb.co/5xQzzYQ


I would appreciate your help and guidance.
Thanks much,
psxswiss

[superg]

Hi Superg, Hi All,

Just modded my Super Famicom Jr (Japanese) with a RGB bypass design by Borti4938. https://github.com/borti4938/SNES_RGB_Bypass
The installation went well, I have a great and sharp image. Connected directly to my PVM via a RGB cable with CSYNC is awesome.

I have a problem when going through the gscartsw (version with VGA port). The gscartsw switch to the right input, but I have not image. I just have two white lines on top of the monitor!
With sync stripper ON on the gscartsw
https://ibb.co/JvKjGss
With Sync Stripper OFF on the gscartsw
https://ibb.co/5xQzzYQ


I would appreciate your help and guidance.
Thanks much,
psxswiss

Your captures don't look right.
Did you follow borti guide?
What is your sync, TTL or 75ohm terminated? What is the SCART cable you use, does it have a resistor if it's TTL?

[superg]

Hello,

I just received your product. My current set up is PS1, PS2, Sega 32X, and Sega Saturn all connected via HD Retrovision Cables to the gcompsw and outputting via a male to male HD Retrovision cable to a retrotink 2x classic to my LG E9.

Everything in my set up is confirmed working other than the male to male HD retrovision cable and the gcompsw, they are the new additions. However, I have a feeling the gcompsw could be the problem as when I power on any console the green light on the gcompsw never turns on. All consoles exhibit the same behavior when turned on - No video, and some crackly audio. Gcompsw has been tested with included power cable to both wall and powerstrip outlets with no change.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

When you turn the switch on, the green LED quickly blinks and is always on. Do you observe this?

[psxswiss]

Hi Superg, Hi All,

Just modded my Super Famicom Jr (Japanese) with a RGB bypass design by Borti4938. https://github.com/borti4938/SNES_RGB_Bypass
The installation went well, I have a great and sharp image. Connected directly to my PVM via a RGB cable with CSYNC is awesome.

I have a problem when going through the gscartsw (version with VGA port). The gscartsw switch to the right input, but I have not image. I just have two white lines on top of the monitor!
With sync stripper ON on the gscartsw
https://ibb.co/JvKjGss
With Sync Stripper OFF on the gscartsw
https://ibb.co/5xQzzYQ


I would appreciate your help and guidance.
Thanks much,
psxswiss

Your captures don't look right.
Did you follow borti guide?
What is your sync, TTL or 75ohm terminated? What is the SCART cable you use, does it have a resistor if it's TTL?

Hi, normlay sync 75 ohm. I'm using the SCART cable from RetoGamingCable.
Super Nintendo NTSC Famicom SNES RGB SCART PACKAPUNCH PRO CABLE
CSYNC 470Ω - Most Common - Composite sync from pin 3, which has a 470 Ohm resistor in series inside the MultiAV plug, for use on regular consumer video receiving equipment.

Work well when connect directly to my PVM 2530 or 14L4. As soon as I pass into the gscartsw, got sync issue.
Rgds,

[superg]

Hi, normlay sync 75 ohm. I'm using the SCART cable from RetoGamingCable.
Super Nintendo NTSC Famicom SNES RGB SCART PACKAPUNCH PRO CABLE
CSYNC 470Ω - Most Common - Composite sync from pin 3, which has a 470 Ohm resistor in series inside the MultiAV plug, for use on regular consumer video receiving equipment.

I checked borti's documentation, it looks complicated, that's why I asked whether you followed it from A to Z. It's really hard to say anything specific without seeing your sync line on the scope, but I can say some generic things based on my experience. SNES is a common console, everybody is using it with all switch models just fine. There were problems if the cable is not matched to the region or mod settings which is likely the case here. The older gscartsw model with VGA connector has -2.5V..2.5V multiplexer range, it's more narrow than the latest model (-5V..+5V). PVM acceptable sync levels are wide, it could be an explanation why it works directly.

Work well when connect directly to my PVM 2530 or 14L4. As soon as I pass into the gscartsw, got sync issue.

The switch is not transparent, it's not a direct connection and it has an additional layer of signal travel, if it gets non compliant signal, weird things might happen.

[psxswiss]

Hi, normlay sync 75 ohm. I'm using the SCART cable from RetoGamingCable.
Super Nintendo NTSC Famicom SNES RGB SCART PACKAPUNCH PRO CABLE
CSYNC 470Ω - Most Common - Composite sync from pin 3, which has a 470 Ohm resistor in series inside the MultiAV plug, for use on regular consumer video receiving equipment.

I checked borti's documentation, it looks complicated, that's why I asked whether you followed it from A to Z. It's really hard to say anything specific without seeing your sync line on the scope, but I can say some generic things based on my experience. SNES is a common console, everybody is using it with all switch models just fine. There were problems if the cable is not matched to the region or mod settings which is likely the case here. The older gscartsw model with VGA connector has -2.5V..2.5V multiplexer range, it's more narrow than the latest model (-5V..+5V). PVM acceptable sync levels are wide, it could be an explanation why it works directly.

Work well when connect directly to my PVM 2530 or 14L4. As soon as I pass into the gscartsw, got sync issue.

The switch is not transparent, it's not a direct connection and it has an additional layer of signal travel, if it gets non compliant signal, weird things might happen.

Ok, I figured out. I have 500mV CSYNC at the console port, at the end of the RGB cable only 100mV. Not Enough.
I'll try to remove the 470 ohm resistor that is inside the cable.

Thanks much,

[hairycandy]

Hello,

I just received your product. My current set up is PS1, PS2, Sega 32X, and Sega Saturn all connected via HD Retrovision Cables to the gcompsw and outputting via a male to male HD Retrovision cable to a retrotink 2x classic to my LG E9.

Everything in my set up is confirmed working other than the male to male HD retrovision cable and the gcompsw, they are the new additions. However, I have a feeling the gcompsw could be the problem as when I power on any console the green light on the gcompsw never turns on. All consoles exhibit the same behavior when turned on - No video, and some crackly audio. Gcompsw has been tested with included power cable to both wall and powerstrip outlets with no change.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

When you turn the switch on, the green LED quickly blinks and is always on. Do you observe this?

Issue was the included in power supply. Tried to another micro USB power source and the switch works perfectly.

[superg]

Issue was the included in power supply. Tried to another micro USB power source and the switch works perfectly.

Oh, I'm sorry to hear about that. This is actually the first case of faulty power supply. If you want a replacement, please PM me your address and I will send you another one.

[hairycandy]

Issue was the included in power supply. Tried to another micro USB power source and the switch works perfectly.

Oh, I'm sorry to hear about that. This is actually the first case of faulty power supply. If you want a replacement, please PM me your address and I will send you another one.

I'll just continue on with my current setup. I certainly appreciate the offer though. Thanks for making a great product.

[teerazzler]

@superg

Hey there, I am planning on getting a Neo Geo AES with using the Terra Onion flash cart and I just want to make sure that if I plug it into any revision of the gscart that it won't fry out the gscart. I have read that consolized MVS's most likely will destroy the gscart, so I wanna make sure it isn't the same case for plugging in the AES through scart. I couldn't find a definitive answer online so I figured you would be able to let me know before I might make a very costly mistake. Thank you!

[the Goat]

I have read that consolized MVS's most likely will destroy the gscart,

A properly consolized MVS is perfectly fine with the gscart. It is the same situation as a supergun. As long as all the signals are properly attenuated and buffered, it is no problem.

[superg]

@superg

Hey there, I am planning on getting a Neo Geo AES with using the Terra Onion flash cart and I just want to make sure that if I plug it into any revision of the gscart that it won't fry out the gscart. I have read that consolized MVS's most likely will destroy the gscart, so I wanna make sure it isn't the same case for plugging in the AES through scart. I couldn't find a definitive answer online so I figured you would be able to let me know before I might make a very costly mistake. Thank you!

Well, usually most problems come from amplified audio. If that is properly implemented as stated by the Goat, you should be fine.

[teerazzler]

@superg

Hey there, I am planning on getting a Neo Geo AES with using the Terra Onion flash cart and I just want to make sure that if I plug it into any revision of the gscart that it won't fry out the gscart. I have read that consolized MVS's most likely will destroy the gscart, so I wanna make sure it isn't the same case for plugging in the AES through scart. I couldn't find a definitive answer online so I figured you would be able to let me know before I might make a very costly mistake. Thank you!

Well, usually most problems come from amplified audio. If that is properly implemented as stated by the Goat, you should be fine.

Awesome, thank you! Do you know of any specific consolized MVS model (there are so many to choose from!) that I can 100% safely use with the gscart and that is compatible with using the Terra Onion MVS NeoSD flash cart?

[superg]

Awesome, thank you! Do you know of any specific consolized MVS model (there are so many to choose from!) that I can 100% safely use with the gscart and that is compatible with using the Terra Onion MVS NeoSD flash cart?

That's the hard part, I don't have any arcade systems, you will have to research that.

[teerazzler]

Awesome, thank you! Do you know of any specific consolized MVS model (there are so many to choose from!) that I can 100% safely use with the gscart and that is compatible with using the Terra Onion MVS NeoSD flash cart?

That's the hard part, I don't have any arcade systems, you will have to research that.

Well, given my limited knowledge of how the consolized MVS technically works and that I really don't want to blow up my x2 $200+/ea. gscarts, I will go the safe route and just get an AES with the Terra Onion flash cart. Playing on real hardware is important to me, so it's better for me to get an AES vs. a consolized MVS that seems to be ambiguous if it's real hardware or not from the responses I have got from multiple sellers and answers on forums. Plus the AES has an iconic console look vs the wonky DIY MVS appearance.

[mario64]

@superg

Hey there, I am planning on getting a Neo Geo AES with using the Terra Onion flash cart and I just want to make sure that if I plug it into any revision of the gscart that it won't fry out the gscart. I have read that consolized MVS's most likely will destroy the gscart, so I wanna make sure it isn't the same case for plugging in the AES through scart. I couldn't find a definitive answer online so I figured you would be able to let me know before I might make a very costly mistake. Thank you!

Well, usually most problems come from amplified audio. If that is properly implemented as stated by the Goat, you should be fine.

Awesome, thank you! Do you know of any specific consolized MVS model (there are so many to choose from!) that I can 100% safely use with the gscart and that is compatible with using the Terra Onion MVS NeoSD flash cart?

I'm using an Omega CMVS with Tianfeng's RGB board and NeoSD Pro. No issues with gscartsw.

[teerazzler]

Awesome, thank you! Do you know of any specific consolized MVS model (there are so many to choose from!) that I can 100% safely use with the gscart and that is compatible with using the Terra Onion MVS NeoSD flash cart?[/quote]I'm using an Omega CMVS with Tianfeng's RGB board and NeoSD Pro. No issues with gscartsw.[/quote][/quote]

Oh sweet! I will check that model out. Is it real hardware though?

[mario64]

I'm using an Omega CMVS with Tianfeng's RGB board and NeoSD Pro. No issues with gscartsw.

Oh sweet! I will check that model out. Is it real hardware though?

Absolutely. It uses a MV1C board.

[Parodius79]

Assistance needed Synch issues Marty and NCD:

Hi everyone,

My Gscartsw arrived and I can say that I am extremely happy with the device output for my Super Famicom, Saturn, PS2 and Turbo Duo.

However, two consoles are giving me a headache as there seem to be some synch issues here. As I could not find much material online, I wanted to ask you for any help or advice on the forum. For background, I have the gscartswconnected to a Bang & Olufsen MX7000 monitor. I also have a 2008 Samsung LCD screen with HDMI, SVHS, RGB etc, but I really wanted to use the Gscartsw for the B&O.

First issue is with the Neo Geo CD. It has been fitted out with a luma mod and has a cable by RetroGaming Cables. The Neo Geo CD already had a synch issue with the B&O (rolling screen), but plays absolutely fine with the RGB cable connected to the Samsung LCD. However, I figured that the Gscart synch stripper could stabilise the signal. But unfortunately, when I power it on through the gscartsw on the B&O, the screen starts rolling even worse. The light of the gscartsw starts blinking rapidly at the beginning and there is a loud crackling noise. After a few seconds, the light of the gscart stays green finally and the crackling disappears. However, the rolling screen remains.

Second is my FM Towns Marty, which does not output RGB, but only provides S-video or composite. However, if I connect either output to the Gscartsw, I get no image - only sound. It does work on my TV straight through (although some color bleeding on the B&O when using S video, no problem whatsoever on the Samsung). I have tried all the dip switch settings (synch stripper, master system), but no result.

What am I doing wrong? Any advice would be very helpful.

Cheers and thanks for a great piece of work.

[PersianImm0rtal]

Hey, How do I get sound to play out of the output of the gscart? I just got it in the mail and finally had to to set it up, and I am not getting any sound. My bandridge gets the sound out just fine.

Edit: Nevermind this question! I did not realize it but I must have somehow damaged my Sony PVM's speaker because it was not working, however, external speakers are working fine! Thanks!

[superg]

Hey, How do I get sound to play out of the output of the gscart? I just got it in the mail and finally had to to set it up, and I am not getting any sound. My bandridge gets the sound out just fine.

Edit: Nevermind this question! I did not realize it but I must have somehow damaged my Sony PVM's speaker because it was not working, however, external speakers are working fine! Thanks!

Just make sure you're using powered external speakers.