Questions that do not deserve a thread

[bobrocks95]

I don't think passive switches are dangerous in any way, active ones just boost the signal to maintain even brightness. The resistive load is higher when you connect 2 outputs passively, so it just makes the image dimmer. Fine for lag testing, not suitable for capturing (which is what I thought you wanted to do with it, my bad).

[Ikaruga11]

Why does the UltraHDMI give more vibrant colors than the N64RGB Board?

Also, can the UltraHDMI output at it's native 320x240p resolution?

[Uzumaki]

When using the otaku scart switch RCA output, is it possible to easily convert that to SCART?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[schadenfreude]

I bought a Shinybow SB-2840 RGB to component adapter recently and have been experiencing strange behavior on my PVM. In short, here's what I've tested:

Saturn -> RGB SCART -> PVM via RGB — colors look great
Saturn -> RGB SCART -> SB-2840 -> PVM via component — colors look dull and washed out
Xbox -> official component cables -> PVM via component — colors look great
Saturn -> RGB SCART -> SB-2840 -> LCD TV via component — colors look great (to speak nothing of blur and scaling issues)

The PVM seems to be the culprit here, but only when I send it a component image via the SB-2840; the Xbox via component looks fine on the PVM. And the SB-2840's colors look fine on an LCD, which makes me assume the SB-2840 is working. So what's going on here? I don't plan on using component with the PVM (I bought the SB-2840 in case I get component-only CRTs in the future), but I'm bothered that this test isn't working.

[werk91]

When using the otaku scart switch RCA output, is it possible to easily convert that to SCART?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Weren't you needing one of the outputs for a PVM, those RCA are designed for that and just require RCA to BNC cables directly to your PVM,that's how mine is connected. Otherwise it's fairly easy yes, this cable wired for Output direction will do it: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/aud ... rter-cable

[Uzumaki]

Thanks @werk91
So there is no simple 2 way active scart splitter on the market currently such as this one? https://www.videogameperfection.com/201 ... er-review/

Besides using a switch such as the gscart.

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[werk91]

Unfortunately no, not one I am aware of at least. On my old setup I was using an Extron Interface for that purpose. Most of them have a buffered "Monitor" output via Dsub and the normal RGBS etc output via BNC at the back. I was using the Monitor output for going to a scaler and the BNC output was going to an LCD TV via the same cable I linked you before. Bear in mind because it's an LCD it expects 5V on a pin (forgot which one, I remember Fudoh helped me out) that this cable doesn't provide. I had to solder a simple USB cable to that pin and was plugging it into the USB port of the back the telly. CRT TVs will switch
to RGB mode without that pin having 5V. Unless I'm remembering it wrong. Very messy but it worked great with no brightness loss or quality degradation that I could see. Gscart will be far nicer solution.

[Tapeworm]

Not sure if I am over or under-thinking this...But I have an Extron Crosspoint and want to output my Dreamcast to output to both a LaCie Electron VGA monitor and/or a JVC DT-V1710CG (480p, BNC). I'm not sure my Extron can input RGBHV and output RGBs. I also don't have the JVC unit yet, but just want to be ready when I do.

Current Setup:
Dreamcast-->Toro (VGA output)-->VGA to 5 BNC adapter-->CROSSPOINT ULTRA-->5 BNC to VGA adapter-->LaCie Electron 22 Blue III

So if I added the JVC 1710CG to the mix, could I simply do the following:

Possible JVC setup(?):
Dreamcast-->Toro (VGA output)-->VGA to 5 BNC adapter-->CROSSPOINT ULTRA-->5 BNC cable-->JVC DT-V1710CG (480p), with only one of the Sync cables plugged into the External Sync BNC on the monitor?

The other option I thought up would be adding a Extron 160Xi to the mix:

Other Possible JVC Setup (?):
Dreamcast-->Toro (VGA output)-->VGA to 5 BNC adapter-->CROSSPOINT ULTRA-->5 BNC to VGA adapter-->EXTRON 160XI-->4 BNC-->JVC DT-V1710CG (480p)

Thoughts? Any push in the right direction is appreciated. Thanks!

[cyborc]

The DT-V supports separate H and V sync. Just plug the Vert cable in to "VD" on the JVC. I've done this before with Dreamcast and it worked fine.

[Xer Xian]

@Uzumaki: if you're gonna buy a device just to test input lag and put it aside, maybe buy a Leo Bodnar tester instead? It's easier to use and more accurate.

@Tapeworm: the Toro has dual outputs so you don't even need the crosspoint (well, unless you want to hook up more consoles).

[wgogh]

I dont know if can qualify as Hardware, but I need to know if Hori Fighting Stick Mini 4 really works on a PC. I heard that it does, but it never says anywhere on the box or anything

[ChuChu Flamingo]

I bought a Shinybow SB-2840 RGB to component adapter recently and have been experiencing strange behavior on my PVM. In short, here's what I've tested:

Saturn -> RGB SCART -> PVM via RGB — colors look great
Saturn -> RGB SCART -> SB-2840 -> PVM via component — colors look dull and washed out
Xbox -> official component cables -> PVM via component — colors look great
Saturn -> RGB SCART -> SB-2840 -> LCD TV via component — colors look great (to speak nothing of blur and scaling issues)

The PVM seems to be the culprit here, but only when I send it a component image via the SB-2840; the Xbox via component looks fine on the PVM. And the SB-2840's colors look fine on an LCD, which makes me assume the SB-2840 is working. So what's going on here? I don't plan on using component with the PVM (I bought the SB-2840 in case I get component-only CRTs in the future), but I'm bothered that this test isn't working.

You most likely need to calibrate the component input to match the RGB. On Xbox 360 you probably don't notice this as it has a settings for color range being limited or full. It has been a while but im not sure if component has limited or full range, I know VGA and HDMI do though.

[Einzelherz]

I bought a Shinybow SB-2840 RGB to component adapter recently and have been experiencing strange behavior on my PVM. In short, here's what I've tested:

Saturn -> RGB SCART -> PVM via RGB — colors look great
Saturn -> RGB SCART -> SB-2840 -> PVM via component — colors look dull and washed out
Xbox -> official component cables -> PVM via component — colors look great
Saturn -> RGB SCART -> SB-2840 -> LCD TV via component — colors look great (to speak nothing of blur and scaling issues)

The PVM seems to be the culprit here, but only when I send it a component image via the SB-2840; the Xbox via component looks fine on the PVM. And the SB-2840's colors look fine on an LCD, which makes me assume the SB-2840 is working. So what's going on here? I don't plan on using component with the PVM (I bought the SB-2840 in case I get component-only CRTs in the future), but I'm bothered that this test isn't working.

You most likely need to calibrate the component input to match the RGB. On Xbox 360 you probably don't notice this as it has a settings for color range being limited or full. It has been a while but im not sure if component has limited or full range, I know VGA and HDMI do though.

You can't afaik. Since rgb and competent share the same channel (at least on my L series) they share color settings.

[aaronmjr]

..

[Ikaruga11]

Would the Nintendo 64 benefit from having anything bigger than 8MB (Expansion Pak) of RAM? I wonder if larger third-party expansion paks could make framerates more stable with less drops.

[bobrocks95]

Would the Nintendo 64 benefit from having anything bigger than 8MB (Expansion Pak) of RAM? I wonder if larger third-party expansion paks could make framerates more stable with less drops.

No, games would have to be re-programmed to take advantage of the larger memory address space. See: every game that wasn't programmed specifically for the expansion pack running the same or even worse (Space Station Silicon Valley can freeze with an expansion pack in).

More RAM wouldn't improve framerates anyway. It's a cartridge system, so streaming assets in isn't the bottleneck that's lowering framerates.

[Ikaruga11]

No, games would have to be re-programmed to take advantage of the larger memory address space. See: every game that wasn't programmed specifically for the expansion pack running the same or even worse (Space Station Silicon Valley can freeze with an expansion pack in).

More RAM wouldn't improve framerates anyway. It's a cartridge system, so streaming assets in isn't the bottleneck that's lowering framerates.

Thanks. I remember seeing some N64 ROM hacks that utilize the Expansion Pak, allowing for less drops in framerate.

I know that some games offer a Hi-Res Mode of 640x480i when using the Expansion Pak.

Would these 480i games be handled better on the Ultra HDMI or the RGB Mod? I say this because it appears the Ultra HDMI cannot display 640x480i, while the RGB Mod can on a CRT.

[citrus3000psi]

Thanks. I remember seeing some N64 ROM hacks that utilize the Expansion Pak, allowing for less drops in framerate.

I know that some games offer a Hi-Res Mode of 640x480i when using the Expansion Pak.

Would these 480i games be handled better on the Ultra HDMI or the RGB Mod? I say this because it appears the Ultra HDMI cannot display 640x480i, while the RGB Mod can on a CRT.

I'm pretty confident the lowest resolution the Ultra HDMI uses is 480p. It has a direct mode, with no processing but I still think that does 480p.

Have you considered doing both the RGB mod and Ultra HDMI? I have an ultra HDMI installed and have Tim's board waiting to go in when I get time.

[Ikaruga11]

I'm pretty confident the lowest resolution the Ultra HDMI uses is 480p. It has a direct mode, with no processing but I still think that does 480p.

Yeah. The Ultra HDMI cannot output 240p or 480i, which are the two resolutions that the Nintendo 64 actually uses. I've heard that 480i content also looks bad on the Ultra HDMI due to a rudimentary de-interlacer.

One one hand, I want to future-proof my Nintendo 64 and have lossless digital clarity along with a plethora of video options including De-Blur.
On the other hand, the Ultra HDMI doesn't output 240p or 480i, and 480i can look pretty rough.

Have you considered doing both the RGB mod and Ultra HDMI? I have an ultra HDMI installed and have Tim's board waiting to go in when I get time.

Yes I have. You can have the simple RGB mod (early N64s only) installed alongside the Ultra HDMI. I was told by Wesley however that Tim's RGB Mod (De-Blur) is impossible to have alongside the Ultra HDMI due to sharing the same data lines.

I would love to have to the Ultra HDMI and De-Blur RGB at the same time.

[citrus3000psi]

Yes I have. You can have the simple RGB mod (early N64s only) installed alongside the Ultra HDMI. I was told by Wesley however that Tim's RGB Mod (De-Blur) is impossible to have alongside the Ultra HDMI due to sharing the same data lines.

I would love to have to the Ultra HDMI and De-Blur RGB at the same time.

I wonder why they say its impossible (maybe as an install point of view), both devices are parasitic. I'll install Tim's board soon and let you know how things go.

[bobrocks95]

No, games would have to be re-programmed to take advantage of the larger memory address space. See: every game that wasn't programmed specifically for the expansion pack running the same or even worse (Space Station Silicon Valley can freeze with an expansion pack in).

More RAM wouldn't improve framerates anyway. It's a cartridge system, so streaming assets in isn't the bottleneck that's lowering framerates.

Thanks. I remember seeing some N64 ROM hacks that utilize the Expansion Pak, allowing for less drops in framerate.

I know that some games offer a Hi-Res Mode of 640x480i when using the Expansion Pak.

Would these 480i games be handled better on the Ultra HDMI or the RGB Mod? I say this because it appears the Ultra HDMI cannot display 640x480i, while the RGB Mod can on a CRT.

I'd be curious to see those romhacks if you have any links. I found an OoT one that allows more things to be loaded in at once, but framerate looked about the same.

[Ikaruga11]

I wonder why they say its impossible (maybe as an install point of view), both devices are parasitic. I'll install Tim's board soon and let you know how things go.

Thanks

I'd be curious to see those romhacks if you have any links. I found an OoT one that allows more things to be loaded in at once, but framerate looked about the same.

I think that might be the one actually. I'll look into it.

[schadenfreude]

You most likely need to calibrate the component input to match the RGB. On Xbox 360 you probably don't notice this as it has a settings for color range being limited or full. It has been a while but im not sure if component has limited or full range, I know VGA and HDMI do though.

You can't afaik. Since rgb and competent share the same channel (at least on my L series) they share color settings.

Thanks for the replies. This is my assumption too: calibrating one naturally calibrates the other. I did find some component- and RGB-specific settings in the menus, but moving their values around did not change the picture on the screen.

The only thing I can assume is that the SB-2840 outputs a slightly non-compliant component (YPbPr) signal that the PVM doesn't like and thus overcompensates by darkening the image. I don't know how else to explain why one component source would look normal while another looks muddy — and yet both sources look normal on a different display.

And it probably doesn't matter, but to clarify, I was using an OG Xbox — the real Xbox "one".

[schadenfreude]

I dont know if can qualify as Hardware, but I need to know if Hori Fighting Stick Mini 4 really works on a PC. I heard that it does, but it never says anywhere on the box or anything

I don't have one so I can't say it works for certain, but these guys were discussing PC support and said that the Mini 4 uses DirectInput, whereas some PC games, like SFV, only work with accessories that use XInput. You can use things like Xbox 360 controller emulation or Joy2Key to get around this, however.

[729]

Hi everyone, so I managed to get a Sony PVM 8042Q for like $50 shipped. I already own a Sony PVM 14M2U and it looks really good, however the 8042Q looks sorta weird with the brightness and contrast up; as if there's a hue of red/pink. However if I turn down the brightness to default and contrast to normal everything looks stabilized in terms of color but I can barely see anything since it's dimmed.

I was wondering does it have to do with the "Bias and Gain" portion in the front of the television itself? If so, how exactly do I go about changing either of those? Is there like a special tool or something I need to make adjustments?

The 8042Q doesn't have a menu compared to the 14M2U sadly :L

Edit:

Additional question, on the 14M2U there's the "IN" and "OUT" ports for the RGB, Sync, and Audio. I was wondering could I just plug in another set of BNC RGB cables into the output then plug the other end into another PVM via. input so the second PVM could display the same image?

Right now I got CSync SNES -> SCART (Male) -> SCART (Female) -> BNC RGB. Would I have to get another set of BNC RGB -> SCART (Female) to go into the output of the first PVM then SCART (Male) -> BNC RGB to the input of the second PVM?

[wgogh]

I dont know if can qualify as Hardware, but I need to know if Hori Fighting Stick Mini 4 really works on a PC. I heard that it does, but it never says anywhere on the box or anything

I don't have one so I can't say it works for certain, but these guys were discussing PC support and said that the Mini 4 uses DirectInput, whereas some PC games, like SFV, only work with accessories that use XInput. You can use things like Xbox 360 controller emulation or Joy2Key to get around this, however.

Hey, thanks! Good enough for me, will just use for emulation, probably

[gordon-creAtive]

I'm currently planning the shelving for my consoles. I also want to get a Sega CD and 32X but I'm not there yet. Could someone tell my the height of a Sega CD 1 + Genesis 1 + 32X + cartridge tower? Extra points for also measuring a tower including Sonic & Knuckles. Thanks!

Edit: I'm also interested in the height of a Sega Saturn and Sega Dreamcast with open trays.

[fluffymadness]

Hi guys. Just out of curiosity. Did anyone of you try different vga->hdmi converters for the dreamcast and noticed any difference in terms of response?
I guess vga to hdmi conversion should be near lagless...but still the controls don't feel as tight to me then my other systems (xbox 360, ps2 hdmi key (yuv->hdmi))
connected to my low lag gaming lcd. (all systems tested with different shmups)
I mainly play shmups, so tight controls are very important for me. Right now I'm thinking about trying other vga->hdmi converters. But I guess most of them probably have the same conversion chip!?
Mine has a MS9282 analog digital converter.

Maybe its just that the dc was on a vga monitor before and I'm feeling the portion of extralag when going from crt to lcd and it is not the converter per se.
Any kind of input will be appreciated.
Thx.

[Shining]

When adjusting geometry on a curved crt, should one follow the curvature of the screen or make it as flat as possible to achieve the best results?

Curved


Flat

[Einzelherz]

You want it to look square from your viewing perspective, so the hidden corners like that are pretty normal.