Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Ikaruga11]

How does the GameShark functionality on the Everdrive 64 v3.0 compare to the GameShark Pro v3.3 for the Nintendo 64?

How does the GameShark functionality on the EverDrive GB compare to the GameShark Pro v3.0 for the GameBoy Color?

[werk91]

Will say the PS2 output YpBpR happily over its RGB cable

yes, this works fine.

That works so well it's beautiful! I can go and play Tekken 5 in 480p whenever I want without switching any cables and just changing few settings on menus Any other consoles that can do this?

[Dochartaigh]

That works so well it's beautiful! I can go and play Tekken 5 in 480p whenever I want without switching any cables and just changing few settings on menus Any other consoles that can do this?

The original Xbox, over Component, will let you switch between 480i and 480p via the boot menu just like the PS2 can...just have to switch your PVM/BVM settings then (which I have to do on the PS2 as well)

I don't think the Xbox can do this over SCART though (think SCART is purely for RGBs? or RGsB? and 480i on the Xbox for some reason).

[Ikaruga11]

How does the GameShark functionality on the Everdrive 64 v3.0 compare to the GameShark Pro v3.3 for the Nintendo 64?

How does the GameShark functionality on the EverDrive GB compare to the GameShark Pro v3.0 for the GameBoy Color?

Also, how good are the official Nintendo S-Video Cables? When playing Pokemon Stadium on my Revision-08 Nintendo 64, I notice some jailbars on a black screen when accessing the GB Tower, among other graphical quirks on other N64 games I perceive as unwanted. It seems maybe the shielding isn't very good? Or the clarity is much sharper that individual pixels and artifacts stand out more? I bought the cables on eBay, and they came in excellent condition with the box and everything. I'm wondering if it's the cables, the N64, the TV, the power supply or a combination of those things.

[FinalBaton]

Yesterday I picked up a Dell 2001FP monitor as a potential PVM replacement, largely because I've heard that it supports 15 kHz RGB through the VGA port. However, I discovered that the 2001FP does *not* accept composite sync and for now I'm screwed. Anyone know of an adapter or a circuit I can build that can split the composite sync into separate horizontal and vertical sync signals?

What are your thoughts on the 2001FP now that you had some time with it, ApolloBoy?

I'm curious about this one, there are a couple other square-ish AR LCD monitors that handle 15kHz RGB signals well, but this one having composite and S-video plugs make it a bit more interesting

[andykara2003]

Does anyone know the lag of a PMS Crystalio II when scaling from 480p to 1080p?

[Fudoh]

Does anyone know the lag of a PMS Crystalio II when scaling from 480p to 1080p?

I think a little more than one frame. The output of the CII isn't locked to the vertical input refresh rate though, which is very unfortunate and really the only downside to using a CII for upscaling progressive sources.

[andykara2003]

Thanks for that :)

[werk91]

Anyone here use BNC T connectors/splitters? I'm using them on my PVM right now and wanted to know whether they're bad in any way or can cause interference etc. Also is anyone aware of a way to make a PAL Ps3 Slim run at 480p60p through component cables? I've connected mine at 576p50p but some games just look a bit off. 720p looks great on the other hand but since it is a wide-screen res the black bars are there.. In fact I can't see difference between the RGB SCART signal and the component one. Even my PS2(NTSC model) looks better than it over component

[RottenToTheGore]

Anyone here use BNC T connectors/splitters? I'm using them on my PVM right now and wanted to know whether they're bad in any way or can cause interference etc.

I haven't had any issues, I used one with a VGA>BNC cable, and combined H&V sync.




Question of my own, anyone see this before? You can mod a PS1 for sync on green apparently https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showth ... p?t=345621 Would save me the trouble of messing with a sync stripper.

But while it says it's 875 ohm, I don't know what watts and such it used (I honestly don't even know how that all works). Anyone know a good resistor to use for this?

[werk91]

Anyone here use BNC T connectors/splitters? I'm using them on my PVM right now and wanted to know whether they're bad in any way or can cause interference etc.

I haven't had any issues, I used one with a VGA>BNC cable, and combined H&V sync...

Admittedly my use case is a bit different, I have connected one YPBPR source and one RGBS source to the same input card on the PVM. Obviously I'll never turn both on at same time. That could be damaging I would imagine? The monitor requires a setting change to go from one to the other (sync ext -> int) and everything looks normal on both. I don't see why it would be bad idea but thought I'd check I'm not missing something obvious.

[Xer Xian]

Hey werk91, I'm probably the one who's missing something obvious ^^, but why do you need a BNC T connector with the JVC DT-V19? Shouldn't it take pretty much all the RGB formats you can throw at it? (I've only tested it with separate H,V sync as of now)

[bobrocks95]

Hey werk91, I'm probably the one who's missing something obvious ^^, but why do you need a BNC T connector with the JVC DT-V19? Shouldn't it take pretty much all the RGB formats you can throw at it? (I've only tested it with separate H,V sync as of now)

Read his last post a little more closely, he's using 1 input as 2 by attaching T-connectors to all the ports.

[Xer Xian]

Thanks, I was definitely missing something obvious

I'm glad I asked anyway, cause I totally didin't think about using T connectors and was going to buy the otaku games RGB/Component switcher to route both signals to one input. Now I'lI'have to think about it..

[Einzelherz]

I just use a component switch and rca to bnc adapters.

[werk91]

The otaku RGB/component switch will be much cleaner solution for what I'm doing for sure. Problem is mine is out of ports already as I got two new consoles recently. I've asked the seller from Otaku games if he has tried daisy chaining two switchers and how's the quality. I think with one of those short BNC output to Scart male cables going into the second switcher it may be with small quality loss but we'll see

[Einzelherz]

Are monitor white points (6500,9300) on a different scale than light bulbs (2700, 4100, 5000)?

[Ikaruga11]

Are monitor white points (6500,9300) on a different scale than light bulbs (2700, 4100, 5000)?

Yes

[Guspaz]

They are the same scale, the colour temperature of the white point in Kelvin (Kelvin is degrees Celsius above absolute zero). Colour temperature basically means, if you had a theoretical ideal black body (perfectly opaque and non-reflective), and you heated it up to that temperature, what colour would it glow?

[Einzelherz]

Is it wrong that the white from lighting fixtures doesn't match the white from displays then? Like 9300K on a screen feels close to 5000K bulbs.

I might be fundamentally misunderstanding your explanation though.

[Blair]

i've been thinking about the colour temperature thing for a bit lately as i've been messing around with my pvm-14m2u. it has a 6500k and 9300k switch in the options menu. I have a ps2 slim hooked up via RGB and I noticed a few things. I fet that ps2 games looked more natural at 65k, but I thoght PSone games looked better at 9300k. (but I only tested 4 games). I've always been told that if the display is properly calibrated the colour temperature should reflect the lighting conditions in the room. (but i'm not sure if thats true). i've also seen a few other posts on the subject that made some good points.

6500K is supposed to be the color temp of a sunny day outside. It works well for video and photography, but I think it's too warm for non-realistic video game graphics. And this is my guesswork, but I think these color temp presets are useless if the tube has significant age. The predefined values are off and 6500k may be bordering on orange. The professionals who had these owned expensive calibration tools in order to continue to achieve neutral color temp as the monitor aged and the phosphor colors shifted. For a monitor with moderate wear, I set to 9300K (or High) and since it can be too cool I manually tweak the R, G and B values from there. For a couple of older/worn monitors, I ignored the presets and used my own customized values.

So it seems possible that a lot of variables are at play and getting the best results is unique to each display and its intended use.

[Xer Xian]

I also use 9300K for gaming. I think I've read somewhere that games/arcade monitors were meant to be displayed/calibrated at 6500K but I can't stand yellowish whites. I don't know if the fact that I tend to play late in the day with artificial lighting has any relevance (also I tend to play indoor, but who doesn't?).

@Einzelherz: just a random thought but (besides what Blair/Mega pointed out) probably the fact that you're not staring at your display's phosphors/crystals directly but through a screen (possibly with an anti-glare coating and/or not in a pitch black room) could make the comparison with a light bulb harder.

[andykara2003]

Can anyone tell me what the settings should be on the back on the Extron RGB 201/203Rxi? I'm inputting VGA and outputting VGA to the TV.

Thanks.


Edit: I totally get what you guys are saying - I have all my gaming TVs set at a cooler colour temperature for gaming. The image just looks cleaner and nicer with whiter whites.

[Einzelherz]

@Einzelherz: just a random thought but (besides what Blair/Mega pointed out) probably the fact that you're not staring at your display's phosphors/crystals directly but through a screen (possibly with an anti-glare coating and/or not in a pitch black room) could make the comparison with a light bulb harder.

I'm basing my observations on calibrated colors. But at the same time, I feel like there's something fundamental that's keeping me from squaring this circle.

Maybe if I point my colorimeter at light bulbs themselves I'll learn more. Hopefully the brightness isn't too much for it.

[Ikaruga11]

In regards to the color temperature discussion:

I only want to play games with natural sunlight or complete darkness in my room. Is this fine for video games and movies? My CRTs will be facing directly away from my window (which faces South, so no direct sunlight anyway), so reflections shouldn't be an issue. My LED monitor is facing the window, but has an anti-glare coating.

[Einzelherz]

There's an issue with complete darkness in that it will destroy your eyes. Other than that, lighting color makes very little difference.

[andykara2003]

I wonder if it really does damage your eyes or if that's like the myth that you'll damage your eyes by not wearing short sighted glasses when you really should.

I'd like to know (see some proof) as I play on my plasma in the dark & want to keep my eyesight!

Do you know of any aurthoritative sources for that? I'll change my viewing habits if so.

[did some research and the evidence doesn't seem to be there that it actually damages your eyes but can cause mild eye strain. I might avoid doing it then and maybe get some bias lighting - I've been meaning to do that for a while.]

[Ikaruga11]

There's an issue with complete darkness in that it will destroy your eyes. Other than that, lighting color makes very little difference.

How? Broadcast monitors were designed to be viewed in a completely pitch black room to avoid reflections and ambient lighting.

[Lord of Pirates]

Bias lighting, if you're interested:
http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ideal_lumesb.htm

[Einzelherz]

There's an issue with complete darkness in that it will destroy your eyes. Other than that, lighting color makes very little difference.

How? Broadcast monitors were designed to be viewed in a completely pitch black room to avoid reflections and ambient lighting.

I wonder how these producers and set workers moved around without tripping over everything in pitch blackness. I need to find out cause I stub my toes a lot at night.