Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Einzelherz]

I figured as much, it's just rough paying for a good SCART switch or SCART>BNC cables for each console. It far outweighs the cost of the hardware in most cases.

Another alternative is to make your own cabling with off the shelf 6 channel component stuff (xbox is a good source) and using a component switch that has a composite line.

[FinalBaton]

Retro_Console_Accessories makes a couple of them also.

Someone looking for a cheaper route might want to get a VGA switcher and get console-to-VGA cables. Those are a lot cheaper thna console-to-BNC ones, they cost the same as straight console SCART cables.
(she only has the snes one listed, but she can make them for other system if you ask her. I can't guarantee that cables for other systems won't be more expensive than the snes one though).

Someone on here went with a complete console-to-VGA cables setup through an Extron VGA switch

[KaizaCorp]

Does anyone know if this TV (Philips 30PW850H37A) is any good? I was trying to find out if there is significant input lag but can't find much online.

[chuckster]

Another alternative is to make your own cabling with off the shelf 6 channel component stuff (xbox is a good source) and using a component switch that has a composite line.

Is there a tutorial out there for making a cable like that? That seems like a good project, and would make switching simpler. I have never done anything like that though, and I wonder if startup costs would be a big hurdle.

Retro_Console_Accessories makes a couple of them also.

Someone looking for a cheaper route might want to get a VGA switcher and get console-to-VGA cables. Those are a lot cheaper thna console-to-BNC ones, they cost the same as straight console SCART cables.
(she only has the snes one listed, but she can make them for other system if you ask her. I can't guarantee that cables for other systems won't be more expensive than the snes one though).

Someone on here went with a complete console-to-VGA cables setup through an Extron VGA switch

This sounds like a good idea too, if I can find the cables reasonably cheap. I'll look into it!

[vol.2]

Thrre isn't really a specific video, more like various cable building videos.

The first step is to identify your pin ins and pin outs. Then you have to solder ends. You never identified a specific console, so that will make a huge difference. I think PlayStation 2 carries RGB over pins that are populated by the YPbPr signal, so you could probably just pop RCA to BNC adapters on the ends possibly. Has anybody tried this?

[bobrocks95]

Retro_Console_Accessories makes a couple of them also.

Someone looking for a cheaper route might want to get a VGA switcher and get console-to-VGA cables. Those are a lot cheaper thna console-to-BNC ones, they cost the same as straight console SCART cables.
(she only has the snes one listed, but she can make them for other system if you ask her. I can't guarantee that cables for other systems won't be more expensive than the snes one though).

Someone on here went with a complete console-to-VGA cables setup through an Extron VGA switch

I know I've seen others do it, but I have this setup as well. Got cables with VGA connectors from R_C_A and have them going into a 12-input Extron VGA switch. It's a great route to go.

[Einzelherz]

Thrre isn't really a specific video, more like various cable building videos.

The first step is to identify your pin ins and pin outs. Then you have to solder ends. You never identified a specific console, so that will make a huge difference. I think PlayStation 2 carries RGB over pins that are populated by the YPbPr signal, so you could probably just pop RCA to BNC adapters on the ends possibly. Has anybody tried this?

You can use PS2 component cables for RGB on PS1/PS2 but you need a way to capture a sync channel. 6 channel PS2 cables should work, and so will a guncon breakout using the composite line for sync.

[chuckster]

Thrre isn't really a specific video, more like various cable building videos.

The first step is to identify your pin ins and pin outs. Then you have to solder ends. You never identified a specific console, so that will make a huge difference. I think PlayStation 2 carries RGB over pins that are populated by the YPbPr signal, so you could probably just pop RCA to BNC adapters on the ends possibly. Has anybody tried this?

I actually just posted a page or two back about this working and blowing my mind. I am most interested in SNES and Genesis, I'm guessing those aren't too difficult?

[vol.2]

I've never looked into Genesis. Older SNES models should do RGB out of the box, but with questionable results. Some have made the claim that s-video produces a cleaner picture than RGB on these earlier SNES models, but that may just be a console specific issue; it's not fully resolved. If you have a modded 1 chip SNES (later model) or modded SNES mini with RGB output, there are SNES to scart cables available, or you buy the SNES connector from a guy on the internet. I'll get you the link if you want it. Then you have to solder the connectors to BNC cables. You will have to buy a BNC from somewhere, cut off the ends and solder the SNES connector to the wires. I bought my BNC from monoprice. You could also buy raw cable and BNC connector ends, but that gets more expensive unless you have plans for multiple builds. Also, you have to be careful to buy solder BNC connector ends, and not crimp ends, unless you want to buy a crimping tool.


Edit: If you want more info or helpful links, etc, start a new thread and I and/or others will get into more detail.

[FinalBaton]

I know I've seen others do it, but I have this setup as well. Got cables with VGA connectors from R_C_A and have them going into a 12-input Extron VGA switch. It's a great route to go.

If you don't mind answering : for what consoles do you have a console-to-VGA cable? and where they all pretty much the same price, or where some cables more expensive (without giving figures)

[Ikaruga11]

Is the Sony KV-24FV300 the exact same model as the Sony KV-27FV300? Just 3 inches less?

[FinalBaton]

The 24 incher (as well as the 20 incher)has a newer and better chassis than the 27, 32 and 36 inchers

[Ikaruga11]

The 24 incher (as well as the 20 incher)has a newer and better chassis than the 27, 32 and 36 inchers

Seriously? Do you have any source or evidence to support this?

[bobrocks95]

I know I've seen others do it, but I have this setup as well. Got cables with VGA connectors from R_C_A and have them going into a 12-input Extron VGA switch. It's a great route to go.

If you don't mind answering : for what consoles do you have a console-to-VGA cable? and where they all pretty much the same price, or where some cables more expensive (without giving figures)

I got cables for my Genesis 2, SNES, and PS1 (which was sync on luma and also had a sync stripper, as I figured the Extron switch would only take CSync).

I'll check the price when I get home, since I ordered them all together. Just keep in mind that they were custom-ordered and that doesn't mean anybody should go and tell her that "This guy only paid x amount for his." I wanna say they averaged out to $25-30 each? They also had 3.5mm audio connectors.

[FinalBaton]

The 24 incher (as well as the 20 incher)has a newer and better chassis than the 27, 32 and 36 inchers

Seriously? Do you have any source or evidence to support this?

Compare these two

https://www.elektrotanya.com/sony_kv-24 ... nload.html

https://www.elektrotanya.com/sony_chass ... nload.html

[FinalBaton]

Just keep in mind that they were custom-ordered and that doesn't mean anybody should go and tell her that "This guy only paid x amount for his."

This is exactly why I didn't want you to disclose how much you paid in my post you quoted

I wanted to know if the ones needing a sync stripper were much more expensive than the others. Let me know if your playstation one was indeed more expensive

[Ikaruga11]

The 24 incher (as well as the 20 incher)has a newer and better chassis than the 27, 32 and 36 inchers

Seriously? Do you have any source or evidence to support this?

Compare these two

https://www.elektrotanya.com/sony_kv-24 ... nload.html

https://www.elektrotanya.com/sony_chass ... nload.html

So what exactly makes the BA-6 Chassis better than the BA-5D Chassis? I can see that it's newer since the 5D's manual was manufactured in 2002 and the 6's manual was manufactured in 2004. I found the B6's service manual, but I can't make heads or tails of it and how it would improve the picture or audio quality:

http://www.archivotecnicosaurios.com/de ... miento.pdf

This course will cover the new BA-6 chassis. The USA model sizes for the BA-6 chassis are 13", 20" and 24".
This chassis has major circuit changes from the BA-5 chassis, the main one being the integration of Syscon, YC
Jungle and Comb Filter into one IC package (called One-Chip). Other changes are in the Power Supply (Main
and Standby) and the Audio section. The Vertical and Horizontal deflection section are similar to previous
chassis’s except for the Horizontal Output transistor, which is a new design. Although this single chip design may
seem to eliminate a large portion of circuit troubleshooting, there are still discreet circuits and external ICs that
can fail. In addition, when the unit becomes defective, a good understanding of the One-Chip IC functions will be
needed to determine if the problem is in the One-Chip IC or in external circuits.

[FinalBaton]

I can think of only one but it's a major one : you can calibrate the "Red Push" on the BA-6 chassis, and that's a HUGE plus in achieving good color fidelity on that set. The highly-saturated reds have a much too strong presence on the BA-5D with the red push on, and when you turn it off the they are too subdued. And the lesser-saturated reds are quite dim on the BA-5D chassis no matter how you tweek the picture, they always appear flat and somewhat lifeless.

Some users on here, who've had both models, said that they were able to achieve much more accurate highly-saturated red, as well as richer less-saturated reds, on the BA-6 with the red push ON and by tweaking it's values. They said that they were happier with the BA-6.

I don't know what else differs in the circuitry between the two chassis. There are some service menu settings that are different between the two models.



I never tried the BA-6 chassis, so I will take the word of those on here who have tried both. I havea BA-5D chassis myself, and I've spent dozens of hours calibrating it, trying every single setting in the service menu and trying countless calibration possibilities. Needless to say, I know this set very, VERY well. What others have experienced with the BA-5D matches what I've experienced. It's a good set but there's some definite room for improvment in the colors, especially on reds.

[Ikaruga11]

I can think of only one but it's a major one : you can calibrate the "Red Push" on the BA-6 chassis, and that's a HUGE plus in achieving good color fidelity on that set. The highly-saturated reds have a much too strong presence on the BA-5D with the red push on, and when you turn it off the they are too subdued. And the lesser-saturated reds are quite dim on the BA-5D chassis no matter how you tweek the picture, they always appear flat and somewhat lifeless.

Some users on here, who've had both models, said that they were able to achieve much more accurate highly-saturated red, as well as richer less-saturated reds, on the BA-6 with the red push ON and by tweaking it's values. They said that they were happier with the BA-6.

I don't know what else differs in the circuitry between the two chassis. There are some service menu settings that are different between the two models.



I never tried the BA-6 chassis, so I will take the word of those on here who have tried both. I havea BA-5D chassis myself, and I've spent dozens of hours calibrating it, trying every single setting in the service menu and trying countless calibration possibilities. Needless to say, I know this set very, VERY well. What others have experienced with the BA-5D matches what I've experienced. It's a good set but there's some definite room for improvment in the colors, especially on reds.

Yeah, I remember Brad251 mention the red push on his 27FV310 was far too strong, and when he disabled it, he said the red was subdued and lifeless like you're saying. The FV300s in the 27+ inch spectrum also suffer the same fate since they also used the BA-5D Chassis. Thanks!

I want to replace the batteries inside of GameBoy and GameBoy Color cartridges which have died and no longer work. There are only two methods of doing this from what I've seen: electrical tape and soldering. Which method is better? I've never soldered before and don't have a soldering iron.

[bobrocks95]

Just keep in mind that they were custom-ordered and that doesn't mean anybody should go and tell her that "This guy only paid x amount for his."

This is exactly why I didn't want you to disclose how much you paid in my post you quoted

I wanted to know if the ones needing a sync stripper were much more expensive than the others. Let me know if your playstation one was indeed more expensive

I bought all together. I could PM you if you want, but it still won't exactly break the price down for you.

[Einzelherz]

I can think of only one but it's a major one : you can calibrate the "Red Push" on the BA-6 chassis, and that's a HUGE plus in achieving good color fidelity on that set. The highly-saturated reds have a much too strong presence on the BA-5D with the red push on, and when you turn it off the they are too subdued. And the lesser-saturated reds are quite dim on the BA-5D chassis no matter how you tweek the picture, they always appear flat and somewhat lifeless.

Some users on here, who've had both models, said that they were able to achieve much more accurate highly-saturated red, as well as richer less-saturated reds, on the BA-6 with the red push ON and by tweaking it's values. They said that they were happier with the BA-6.

I don't know what else differs in the circuitry between the two chassis. There are some service menu settings that are different between the two models.




I want to replace the batteries inside of GameBoy and GameBoy Color cartridges which have died and no longer work. There are only two methods of doing this from what I've seen: electrical tape and soldering. Which method is better? I've never soldered before and don't have a soldering iron.

Get a soldering iron and get pre tabbed batteries. If you intend on maintaining this hobby you need an iron anyway.

[Einzelherz]

I want to replace the batteries inside of GameBoy and GameBoy Color cartridges which have died and no longer work. There are only two methods of doing this from what I've seen: electrical tape and soldering. Which method is better? I've never soldered before and don't have a soldering iron.

Get a soldering iron and get pre tabbed batteries. If you intend on maintaining this hobby you need an iron anyway.

[Ikaruga11]

Get a soldering iron and get pre tabbed batteries. If you intend on maintaining this hobby you need an iron anyway.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I don't want to do a half-assed slop job. Plus, I'm afraid the electrical tape might overheat or lose it's adhesiveness. Any recommendations on a good soldering iron and de-soldering pads?

What are pre-tabbed batteries? I have 14 CR2025 lithium batteries (GameBoy save batteries) I ordered off eBay a few years ago. How long do the CR2025s last? I've heard that CR2032s work and last about 30% longer as well, but are slightly bigger and tougher to solder in as result.

[SamIAm]

What's a BKM-68X board worth these days?

Not that I'd want to gouge, but I wonder if it would be worth my time and trouble to pick up an A-series BVM with a problematic tube but with one of these installed and sell it.

[Ikaruga11]

What's a BKM-68X board worth these days?

Not that I'd want to gouge, but I wonder if it would be worth my time and trouble to pick up an A-series BVM with a problematic tube but with one of these installed and sell it.

From what I've heard, RGB/YPbPr boards for A-series BVMs are as rare as unicorns. Probably a lot if you can even find one.

[tomwhite2004]

Was looking to buy a spare Xbox 360 whilst they are still available. Was wondering if it is possible to add my UK / JP accounts to the new machine and download all the games I own with no restrictions, in other words am I allowed to download the games onto multiple machines with the same account?

[Fudoh]

An account can be only be active on one console, but you can move your account to an usb stick if you like. If you "restore" your account to the new system, it will get disabled on the old one one you get online again.

Downloads are fine. On your primary system they'll work offline. On any additional system they only work if you're logged in with the owner's account.

[Einzelherz]

Get a soldering iron and get pre tabbed batteries. If you intend on maintaining this hobby you need an iron anyway.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I don't want to do a half-assed slop job. Plus, I'm afraid the electrical tape might overheat or lose it's adhesiveness. Any recommendations on a good soldering iron and de-soldering pads?

What are pre-tabbed batteries? I have 14 CR2025 lithium batteries (GameBoy save batteries) I ordered off eBay a few years ago. How long do the CR2025s last? I've heard that CR2032s work and last about 30% longer as well, but are slightly bigger and tougher to solder in as result.

Buy batteries that come with the solder tabs already attached. Trying to use lead solder to attach old tabs is an exercise in futility.

I bought a dozen or so on eBay a few years ago. It is probably the simplest soldering work on the planet to replace these batteries.

[linko9]

I want to connect my PC to my PVM (15khz). I see that the best way to do it is to get a VGA to 5 BNC cable, and then merge the Hsync and Vsync using a Y-adapter to use as Csync. My question is whether there's any chance of using a "SCART to VGA" cable in combination with the SCART to 4 bnc adapter I already use with my SNES: something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/361224212922?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

I'm going to guess it won't work, but I have no experience with this. It would be nice to be able to use a SCART switcher rather than having to change out the BNC connections when changing between SNES and PC.

[orange808]

I want to connect my PC to my PVM (15khz). I see that the best way to do it is to get a VGA to 5 BNC cable, and then merge the Hsync and Vsync using a Y-adapter to use as Csync. My question is whether there's any chance of using a "SCART to VGA" cable in combination with the SCART to 4 bnc adapter I already use with my SNES: something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/361224212922?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

I'm going to guess it won't work, but I have no experience with this. It would be nice to be able to use a SCART switcher rather than having to change out the BNC connections when changing between SNES and PC.

Does your video card support QVGA?