That is simple and can easily be done, I have a breadboard which does that. But no time to do thatLink83 wrote: <EDIT> I think you mentioned some years ago making a small add-on board that would fit in the EXT port to allow manual switching with a button - I think that would be a nice optional extra to have available for people who have devices which are powered on 24/7 (Like PC's)
. Ideally I would prefer somebody else do it.I received my gcompsw a few days ago and just had a chance to test it with an Xbox and PS2. The picture quality is exceptional. Amazing product.superg wrote:That is simple and can easily be done, I have a breadboard which does that. But no time to do thatLink83 wrote: <EDIT> I think you mentioned some years ago making a small add-on board that would fit in the EXT port to allow manual switching with a button - I think that would be a nice optional extra to have available for people who have devices which are powered on 24/7 (Like PC's)
Actually you can try S/PDIF forwarding using yellow (or one of the audio RCA's) and see if that works. There are high chances that it will just work, I wanted to try but I don't have anything S/PDIF at the moment and then I got distracted.schmosef wrote:I received my gcompsw a few days ago and just had a chance to test it with an Xbox and PS2. The picture quality is exceptional. Amazing product.superg wrote:That is simple and can easily be done, I have a breadboard which does that. But no time to do thatLink83 wrote: <EDIT> I think you mentioned some years ago making a small add-on board that would fit in the EXT port to allow manual switching with a button - I think that would be a nice optional extra to have available for people who have devices which are powered on 24/7 (Like PC's)
If you are taking feature requests for the next major version of this board, I'd like to request S/PDIF switching be added. I have a separate box I use for optical audio switching and I'd love to combine the two functions.
Lastly, do you have any docs on how to wire the EXT port for manual switching? I'd like to see if I can implement that.
This post? Only information I haven't been able to find is how, exactly, to use the override.superg wrote:Actually you can try S/PDIF forwarding using yellow (or one of the audio RCA's) and see if that works. There are high chances that it will just work, I wanted to try but I don't have anything S/PDIF at the moment and then I got distracted.schmosef wrote:Lastly, do you have any docs on how to wire the EXT port for manual switching? I'd like to see if I can implement that.
EXT port: I will post a page on gretrostuff.com later, it's somewhere in this thread but I have to search for it.
Yeah, it's this but I have to write the guidelines on how to properly use that. In a nutshell you set logic high to pin 2 and set pin 5-7 to the input number in binary format (all logic high is input 8, all logic low is input 1 and so on).nmalinoski wrote: This post? Only information I haven't been able to find is how, exactly, to use the override.
I have a Toslink to Coaxial adapter that I can try this with.superg wrote:Actually you can try S/PDIF forwarding using yellow (or one of the audio RCA's) and see if that works. There are high chances that it will just work, I wanted to try but I don't have anything S/PDIF at the moment and then I got distracted.schmosef wrote: I received my gcompsw a few days ago and just had a chance to test it with an Xbox and PS2. The picture quality is exceptional. Amazing product.
If you are taking feature requests for the next major version of this board, I'd like to request S/PDIF switching be added. I have a separate box I use for optical audio switching and I'd love to combine the two functions.
Lastly, do you have any docs on how to wire the EXT port for manual switching? I'd like to see if I can implement that.
EXT port: I will post a page on gretrostuff.com later, it's somewhere in this thread but I have to search for it.
If you have this on a breadboard, I'd love to copy your schematic.superg wrote:Yeah, it's this but I have to write the guidelines on how to properly use that. In a nutshell you set logic high to pin 2 and set pin 5-7 to the input number in binary format (all logic high is input 8, all logic low is input 1 and so on).nmalinoski wrote: This post? Only information I haven't been able to find is how, exactly, to use the override.
The important thing is that pins 2 and 5-7 are connected to Altera which operates on 3.3V but pin 4 provides 5V for power. There are resistors on these lines but proper level shifting has to be used.
Oh, that was just wires for testing port override. The real device will need a button, maybe two.schmosef wrote:If you have this on a breadboard, I'd love to copy your schematic.superg wrote:Yeah, it's this but I have to write the guidelines on how to properly use that. In a nutshell you set logic high to pin 2 and set pin 5-7 to the input number in binary format (all logic high is input 8, all logic low is input 1 and so on).nmalinoski wrote: This post? Only information I haven't been able to find is how, exactly, to use the override.
The important thing is that pins 2 and 5-7 are connected to Altera which operates on 3.3V but pin 4 provides 5V for power. There are resistors on these lines but proper level shifting has to be used.
Toslink is annoying because of connector. I thought about maybe supporting it but decided not to. And there is a guy who sells toslink switch so it can be used separately.schmosef wrote: I have a Toslink to Coaxial adapter that I can try this with.
I have to dig it out, not sure where it is, but I'll find it and do the test, in the next few days.
I'm also interested to know if this works but, ultimately, it's not the best solution for optical audio switching, only because most consoles and devices use Toslink, so that means I'd be using up to 8 of these Toslink to Coaxial adapters on the input side and maybe one or two more on the output side, to change the signal back to Toslink.
The gcompsw works exactly as advertised. I'm not complaining. In fact, I already have a separate switch for Toslink. I'm just making a suggestion for a feature to consider, for your next version.
Ok, I'll wait for the docs.superg wrote: Oh, that was just wires for testing port override. The real device will need a button, maybe two.
Understood.superg wrote: Toslink is annoying because of connector. I thought about maybe supporting it but decided not to. And there is a guy who sells toslink switch so it can be used separately.
Micomsoft Framemeister XRGB mini or OSSC open source scan converter.LapinBeau wrote:In the interest of futureproofing, does anyone recommend any component-to-HDMI converters that could send the switchbox's signal to a modern HDTV? Most TVs nowadays don't have component inputs, so I just feel like I should be aware of what's available.
The RT2X is generally recommended to those who are looking to use composite-only or S-Video only (Or RF-only, using a VCR or other demodulator to get composite or S-Video) consoles on their HDMI TVs without having to modify them for RGB or HDMI. It does have a YPbPr component input, but it's limited to 15kHz sources (So 240p/288p/480i/576i/PAL60), so that input is fairly limited in a generic sense (No support for 480p or higher from GameCube, PS2, Wii, or Xbox, for example), but it would work well with a SNES or Genesis using HD Retrovision's YPbPr component cables.LapinBeau wrote:I'm afraid the Framemeister is wildly out of my price range right now. Especially since it's being discontinued.
The OSSC is a lot more likely, but after doing a little research, I came across this.
https://castlemaniagames.com/collection ... display-tv
I'm not sure how great the quality is compared to the OSSC, but aside from the lack of scanlines, it looks rather nice. Any thoughts?
I need to sleep right now though, I'll check when I get up!
If you have a gscartsw lite (4.x hardware revision) or newer, the switcher has a built-in sync stripper (sync regeneration). If your cables do not have sync strippers built-in, you will need to enable sync regeneration on your gscartsw.moltomolto wrote:If I'm going from a GSCARTSW Lite to an Extron RGB 203 RXI, should the cable have a sync stripper? I purchased a custom cable from Retro Access to hook my switch to VGA input on the Extron, but am unable to get sync. I purchased without sync stripper, would adding sync stripper fix this?
No, when I tried to do gscartsw to Extron Rxi I thought the same thing, but neither a separate sync-stripper, nor the gscartsw's sync regen, nor both in combination are the answer. Turns out that what the Rxi needs is TTL level sync, and not the 75ohm level sync that the gscartsw and most consoles/mods output. Some SCART switches do TTL, and I believe all Extron switches do also. Custom cables can also be made for TTL.nmalinoski wrote:If you have a gscartsw lite (4.x hardware revision) or newer, the switcher has a built-in sync stripper (sync regeneration). If your cables do not have sync strippers built-in, you will need to enable sync regeneration on your gscartsw.
Problems can occur if you have some cables with and others without built-in sync strippers, so you may want to settle one way or the other; having regular SCART cables and using sync regeneration on the gscartsw, or making sure all of your SCART cables have built-in sync strippers and leaving sync regen off.
gscartsw_lite provides TTL level sync if sync regeneration is on. I changed that for gscartsw v5.2 and now it's 75ohm terminated.fernan1234 wrote:No, when I tried to do gscartsw to Extron Rxi I thought the same thing, but neither a separate sync-stripper, nor the gscartsw's sync regen, nor both in combination are the answer. Turns out that what the Rxi needs is TTL level sync, and not the 75ohm level sync that the gscartsw and most consoles/mods output. Some SCART switches do TTL, and I believe all Extron switches do also. Custom cables can also be made for TTL.nmalinoski wrote:If you have a gscartsw lite (4.x hardware revision) or newer, the switcher has a built-in sync stripper (sync regeneration). If your cables do not have sync strippers built-in, you will need to enable sync regeneration on your gscartsw.
Problems can occur if you have some cables with and others without built-in sync strippers, so you may want to settle one way or the other; having regular SCART cables and using sync regeneration on the gscartsw, or making sure all of your SCART cables have built-in sync strippers and leaving sync regen off.
lite outputs TTL but it's properly attenuated with resistor, otherwise it could be a problem with a lot of devices. The main problem here is that I'm not familiar with Extron (and not interested to be honest). It could be that your Saturn cable is not attenuated and you get real TTL sync and Rxi is able to sync on that. The only way to know for sure is to measure everything and read Extron specs on that.moltomolto wrote:Appreciate the feedback. So just to confirm - if sync regeneration is on, I will need to make sure my SCART to VGA cable is outputting TTL sync? I believe the cable is outputting 75 OHM currently. It's strange because every console fails to sync EXCEPT my Saturn. It's been a while since I bought the Saturn SCART cable so I'm not sure how the cable was wired.
40wattrange wrote:Anyone having issues with their unit not detecting composite from the tg16?
I have a hyperkin composite adapter for mine, but doesn't seem to detect it. If I bypass the switch, everything is good.
Edit, looks like me and the person above posted the same issue, though mine is with the gcompsw. My system is completely stock.
Detection circuit is the same for both gscartsw and gcompsw. TG16 / PC Engine is known for non compliant signal and shitty mods. Repeated LED flashing indicates that the sync is unstable.ldeveraux wrote:I realize this may be old news, but I can't get my TurboGrafx 16 to sync with the gscartsw that just arrived. My other 12 SCART terminating consoles seem to work, but not this. I had the console modded by oldskoolconsoles.com where I believe he used the "PC Engine 7374 RGB Mod kit" to a standard DIN8 connector. I used the DIN8 / SCART cable for PC Engine from RetroGamingCables. Not sure if it matters, but I also have the jailbar fix and region switch mods installed. This setup was working perfectly with my Bandridges switches, and still does if I move the cable to it. I've tried the DIP switches and they don't seem to affect anything. When I power on the TG16, the LED flashes a few times, then stops and flashes repeatedly very fast. I'm not too keen on the RGB mod he did, but is there a way I can get this to work with my gscartsw?
I realize it's an issue for mostly this console, but it was working well with my Bandrige. I kinda wish I'd read up on this issue before buying. I also have the TGCD with dock, so wouldn't be able to attach the dbgrafx booster. I'll just plug it in to the Bandridge and not worry about it I suppose.Guspaz wrote:That can be solved by grabbing something like the dbelectronics dbgrafx booster (AKA the "Engine Block AV" from Stone Age Gamer). It is primarily meant for providing RGB output (or YPbPr component via HDRV cables, which would work with the gcompsw), but the Genesis multi-out port has a composite video signal transcoded from RGB, so the sync shouldn't have the same problems, AFAIK. FYI, the yellow composite output is direct from the console's expansion port, only the composite output on the Genesis socket is generated on the engine block.
Fidde SE made me a special Scart cable with a switch. Works absolutely fantastic.superg wrote:40wattrange wrote:Anyone having issues with their unit not detecting composite from the tg16?
I have a hyperkin composite adapter for mine, but doesn't seem to detect it. If I bypass the switch, everything is good.
Edit, looks like me and the person above posted the same issue, though mine is with the gcompsw. My system is completely stock.Detection circuit is the same for both gscartsw and gcompsw. TG16 / PC Engine is known for non compliant signal and shitty mods. Repeated LED flashing indicates that the sync is unstable.ldeveraux wrote:I realize this may be old news, but I can't get my TurboGrafx 16 to sync with the gscartsw that just arrived. My other 12 SCART terminating consoles seem to work, but not this. I had the console modded by oldskoolconsoles.com where I believe he used the "PC Engine 7374 RGB Mod kit" to a standard DIN8 connector. I used the DIN8 / SCART cable for PC Engine from RetroGamingCables. Not sure if it matters, but I also have the jailbar fix and region switch mods installed. This setup was working perfectly with my Bandridges switches, and still does if I move the cable to it. I've tried the DIP switches and they don't seem to affect anything. When I power on the TG16, the LED flashes a few times, then stops and flashes repeatedly very fast. I'm not too keen on the RGB mod he did, but is there a way I can get this to work with my gscartsw?
Who's that? Is there a link?H6rdc0re wrote: Fidde SE made me a special Scart cable with a switch. Works absolutely fantastic.
