Fudoh's ode to old display technology

[accaris]

I think it is time I got off my arse and fixed a long running fault of my x68000 monitor.

Here is a video demonstrating the issue.

https://youtu.be/UkNC7NlNixk

The brightness issue though does not seem to be locatable by tapping around. It could still be a cold solder joint though.

Any good advice chaps?

Not an expert, but I took this from the sci.electronics.repair FAQ:


11.31) Occasional brightness flashes

These may last only a fraction of a scan line or much much longer.

Make sure it is not the video source - try another one.

This could mean an intermittent fault in a variety of places including
the video circuitry and SCREEN power supply:

* Brightness circuitry - SCREEN, master background or its power supply.
Could be in or around flyback or focus/screen divider. Could perhaps
be in the CRT, but probably less likely.

* Video amp before or at chroma demodulator (if composite input) - since
after this point, you would most likely get colored flashes since only
one of the RGB signals would likely be effected. However, a bad power
connection to the video circuitry could cause all the colors to be
affected.

If you still get flashes, it should be quite easy to monitor either
the video outputs or SCREEN supply (with a HV divider on your scope) for
noise. Then trace back to power or noise source.

[thebeautifulones]

Speaking of which, I really miss using my BVM I think my consumer Toshiba has better edge geometry, though.

What model of Toshiba do you have?

[atheistgod1999]

What model of Toshiba do you have?

27A43

[MKL]

I think it is time I got off my arse and fixed a long running fault of my x68000 monitor.

Here is a video demonstrating the issue.

https://youtu.be/UkNC7NlNixk

As you can see the brightness tends to fluctuate erratically. The fluctuations are most erratic at the start, but calm down after a minute or two.

Probably G2 related. With monitor off, turn the screen pot on the flyback back and forth several times then turn the monitor on and see if it's more stable. Replace the ceramic capacitor across G2 and ground on the neckboard. Reflow the G2 wire and the G2 pin on the CRT socket. If it remains the same replace the flyback (if it's available).

[kamiboy]

How do I identify the related G2 parts on the neckboard though?

It better not be the flyback. I imagine finding one for this model is next to impossible. At that point I better just import another monitor from merry old nippon.

[MKL]

How do I identify the related G2 parts on the neckboard though?

You show it to me.

[kamiboy]

Ok, I guess it is time to pop that baby open once more. Last time i did take photos, but have since deleted them. I think I've heard about the turning the screen pot on the flyback trick somewhere else and I was planning on doing it. Too bad that I cannot clean it using a contact cleaner as it seems sealed. I would consider myself very lucky if the problem is just a dirty contact and turning the pot a few times fixes the issue. I'll report back once I can be arsed to take the monitor apart.

[sanni]

So instead of the Extron MPS 112 I now got an Extron SW4 RGBHV because it can switch the signal automaticly.
This is a nice feature over the MPS 112 since it allows you to hide the switch away out of sight.



Question: Since I don't use the V line output on the Extron switch, do I have to cover it with a 75R termination cap?

[eightbitminiboss]

Made and won a bid on a PVM-14L5. Need little bit of input advice. I'm more or less going to retire the framemeister or at least reduce it's focus. I have 7 consoles on RGB SCART and 2 on component. The RGB consoles are on an older revision of superg's gscartsw and the component consoles are on a bog standard component switcher. I'm looking for a way to have it all connected and hooked up to my XCAPTURE-1.

What's the least painful way to get them all on the PVM and to the XCAPTURE-1? Have all the RGB on one input with a SCART to BNC cable and get another analog RGB/YPbPr card for component and loop it out from their respective outputs?

[Guspaz]

I almost bought a PVM-14L5 on eBay this morning too, but didn't have time to make the final bid this morning Looked to be in great shape too, part from some cosmetic damage to the back.

AFAIK you can't run component through a gscartsw because it auto-switches on the composite line, which component doesn't use. Running the output of the component switcher through a GARO, which outputs RGBS, and plugging that into the gscartsw, that might work. That's the setup that I've got now, although to be honest my setup has been in disarray since it arrived and I can't recall if my auto-switching stuff was working right. I think my component auto-switcher shuts off the output when it has no input, and that causes the the GARO to shut off its output, which causes my scart auto-switcher to correctly decide that that scart input is inactive.

Getting it to the XCAPTURE-1 is kind of the easy part, just hook it up to the outputs of the PVM.

[eightbitminiboss]

I almost bought a PVM-14L5 on eBay this morning too, but didn't have time to make the final bid this morning Looked to be in great shape too, part from some cosmetic damage to the back.

AFAIK you can't run component through a gscartsw because it auto-switches on the composite line, which component doesn't use. Running the output of the component switcher through a GARO, which outputs RGBS, and plugging that into the gscartsw, that might work. That's the setup that I've got now, although to be honest my setup has been in disarray since it arrived and I can't recall if my auto-switching stuff was working right. I think my component auto-switcher shuts off the output when it has no input, and that causes the the GARO to shut off its output, which causes my scart auto-switcher to correctly decide that that scart input is inactive.

Getting it to the XCAPTURE-1 is kind of the easy part, just hook it up to the outputs of the PVM.

That's the one I bought.

I did consider the GARO, but the 8th input will be used by something else later.

Edit: Actually, I could reconsider what I was intending to do and do the GARO. I'll think about it a bit more. Any more options would be appreciated.

[Einzelherz]

I was after the 9L3 that he sold yesterday morning, personally.

[kamiboy]

How do I identify the related G2 parts on the neckboard though?

You show it to me.

Actually I fixed the issue. It wasn't the flyback, nor the neckboard. It was a cold solder joint on the video input board. I figured it out after I took off the back and noticed there was no fluctuating brightness at all. I noticed the the input board would screw to the back once the back is on, and would then be subjected to a bit of tension. Then all I needed to do was flex that board slightly and see the problem come back immediately.

I then spent a few hours manually reflowing every solder joint on it and the problem was gone for good.

This counts two boards with cold solder joints, I bet there are some on the other boards as well, but I cannot be arsed to reflow all of those. For now my monitor works and looks fantastic. Time to play some games while it still good.

[accaris]

Is this ghosting more likely to be caused by:

1) The cheap s-video cable I'm using (it's a dedicated s-video cable, but it's one of those $9 generic Chinese ones that have started to flood eBay)
2) The iScan Pro (although it doesn't happen on composite,)
3) or my SNES? (I'm using a model UN1.)

I can buy a higher quality s-video cable if necessary.

[Lawfer]

Is this ghosting more likely to be caused by:

1) The cheap s-video cable I'm using (it's a dedicated s-video cable, but it's one of those $9 generic Chinese ones that have started to flood eBay)
2) The iScan Pro (although it doesn't happen on composite,)
3) or my SNES? (I'm using a model UN1.)

I can buy a higher quality s-video cable if necessary.

S-Video isn't all that great to begin with, I connected my FM Towns Marty 2 back in 2014 using a high quality S-Video cable from Kimber Kable upconverted to Component and I could immediatly notice that it was kind of fuzzy/blurry in comparison to PS2/PS1 through RGB and Gamecube through Component

[accaris]

S-Video isn't all that great to begin with, I connected my FM Towns Marty 2 back in 2014 using a high quality S-Video cable from Kimber Kable upconverted to Component and I could immediatly notice that it was kind of fuzzy/blurry in comparison to PS2/PS1 through RGB and Gamecube through Component

It's okay if it's blurry compared to RGB, I'm just trying to diagnose the ghosting/shadowing on the high contrast letters. I'm not sure if it's because the cable I'm using isn't grounded properly, or if it's some other issue.

[Jman]

Question on the Pi2Jamma project linked above:

Is there any website with information on how the Pi generates the VGA signal and what additional hardware is neccessary to make use of the actual signal on the GPIO ports ?

I just received my Pi2Jamma and made a small video if anyone is interested

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivGksV_uzn8&t=600s

[Fudoh]

vertical videos are the EVIL... but still watching it now

[Jman]

vertical videos are the EVIL... but still watching it now

Jup, sorry ... did not think about it at the time. Will do better next time

[Fudoh]

how is the audio quality on this setup ? I remember people complaining about the Pi's poor analogue audio output all the time.

[Jman]

how is the audio quality on this setup ? I remember people complaining about the Pi's poor analogue audio output all the time.

It's actually really good! They must be turning the lineout way down and then use the onboard amplifier to ramp up the volume. There is no audible distortion or hissing You will however need a way to adjust the geometry of your screen, as it where way off on my B&O MX8000. Thank good for the service menu

[nissling]

vertical videos are the EVIL... but still watching it now

Tbh they rarely contain anything important (no offense to Jman intended).

[Jman]

vertical videos are the EVIL... but still watching it now

Tbh they rarely contain anything important (no offense to Jman intended).

no offence taken

[Jman]

Allright! Arcadeforge.de made a patch for the vertical menu problem (rotated 180) and i'll post a new video. Maybe even in Hori mode

[atheistgod1999]

I found a Toshiba 27AF44, a model I've heard great things about, on the sidewalk a couple blocks from my house two days ago, and I took it home. I turned it on, and found that it has incredibly good convergence:

Spoiler

The horizontal geometry could use a little adjusting, though:

Spoiler

Any tips on fixing the horizontal s-correction?

Here's a PS2 game via component on it, by the way:

Spoiler

(note: I adjusted some things in the service menu before taking the pictures)

[accaris]

Is this ghosting more likely to be caused by:

1) The cheap s-video cable I'm using (it's a dedicated s-video cable, but it's one of those $9 generic Chinese ones that have started to flood eBay)
2) The iScan Pro (although it doesn't happen on composite,)
3) or my SNES? (I'm using a model UN1.)

I can buy a higher quality s-video cable if necessary.

http://i.imgur.com/yMNb7Yk.jpg

I fixed this problem, so I wanted to give an update in case anyone else ever runs into the same issue. It was the SNES. I noticed that some of the pins inside the AV multi-out were very corroded. My theory is that one of the grounding pins was too corroded to ground properly, resulting in the smearing/shadowing you see here.

I swapped it with a different console and s-video works and looks great now.

[noonan2678]

I just received my Pi2Jamma and made a small video if anyone is interested

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivGksV_uzn8&t=600s

Didn't know about this...very cool! Has anyone used it with a HAS from RGB?

[Chomolonzo]

I think this is probably my first post here after lurking around for a while and reading up on CRT displays. I've wanted to get a decent screen for ages, but they're incredibly difficult - if not impossible - to come by where I live (small island state off the mainland). A screen popped up on eBay recently, however, and after convincing the seller to send it via courier for a considerable cost, I bid on it and won. It'll hopefully arrived in a few days, shipped via pallet to avoid it bouncing around on a conveyor belt with whatever else is being sent too.

So, after all that mucking about I will soon (barring some kind of disaster) be the proud owner of a Sony BVM-A20F1M. From looking at the images it's in really good condition - two scratches on the top of the chassis are about all I can see. Some people may baulk at the idea of buying one without seeing it in person, but really, I have no other options, and it seemed too good to pass up. I love my old games - Nintendo stuff in particular - and this'll be a very welcome addition to my games room.

Image gallery for anyone interested: http://imgur.com/a/Su2gO

[nissling]

Nice pickup there Chomolonzo! The F1s are really nice, hope you'll have lots of fun with yours.

I got a new room earlier this year and now I'm finally able to make my retro corner with my BVM-20F1J. Only thing remaining to complete the setup are the speakers, which will be a pair of Ino piP that I'll mount within the next weeks. Hopefully I'll be able to enjoy some more retro games on it as I now mostly play on my OLED with my gaming PC.

Also I got a new lens today for my DSLR, a Nikkor AF-S DX 40/2,8 G. It's a macro lens and it gave me the opportunity to get in really close to the tube while still keeping the image very sharp.





Since the photos are downscaled by Photobucket, here's a cropped portion of the image (1:1, the right eye) to give you an idea of how close this is.

[sanni]

I bought a BKM-25P S-Video decoder for my BVM 20F1E.

In the manual on page 12 it says to remove all the input boards, starting with the 21D, then continuing from the rightmost slot. Then put them back in, again starting from the rightmost slot.

But since I have one slot that has free slots to both sides, see picture a few posts up, can't I just remove that middle slot cover and keep everything else in place and then just slide the BKM-25P in?
It seems like the manual describes a case where all the slots are used.

Does anyone have experience with this?