Fudoh's ode to old display technology

[accaris]

I should mention that I got an Extron DVS 204 to test with the 304, just to see what the difference is. I have to admit, the 304, even though it's a later model, looks like washed out dogshit compared to the 204, no matter WHAT settings I used. The 204 had a hell of a lot less edge ringing and the pixels had much more definition. I was very surprised, to be honest. AND it has LESS lag. In fact whatever lag I was seeing was probably attributed to my TV; I'm not sure what, if any, lag the DVS 204 was adding, but it couldn't have been more than 1 frame. Only downside was the presence of occasional sprite jittering artifacts, which I'm able to ignore, but which aren't present in the DVS 304.

I don't know what's going on with the DVS 304, maybe it's doing too much processing, maybe it has some kind of motion interpolation that you can't turn off, but really the difference to me in video quality was very noticeable. I'm guessing the 304 is better for VHS or DVD than the 204, but for Nintendo, definitely not.

[Fudoh]

Can you compare the two using a 480p source instead ?

I would imagine that they didn't do much to the scaling engine, but just changed the ASIC that's responsible for the initial 15khz processing step.

[accaris]

Can you compare the two using a 480p source instead ?

I would imagine that they didn't do much to the scaling engine, but just changed the ASIC that's responsible for the initial 15khz processing step.

I have a feeling they might have actually changed the scaling engine. On the DVS-304, the 480p/60hz output is muddled and blurry, whereas the 1080p output is almost too sharp. By comparison, on the DVS-204, there wasn't much difference between 480p, 720p, and 1080p output settings; they all seemed to be processed equally.

The 304 still has some advantages... for example, frame lock is automatically applied and works as intended, whereas on the 204, you have to enable it manually and it still didn't eliminate all screen tearing on 1080p (it worked fine on 480p though... maybe my TV.) Also, the 304 does better with 30hz effects.

I'll test a PS2 on it via component and see what happens.

[MysticSynergy]

I'm having a strange, unknown problem with my Sony BVM 20E1U Unit.

I'll try and describe it as best I can: when I sit rather close to the screen, the scan lines are not solid - they flicker off and on, once or twice a second.

I can't figure out what's causing this. I've tried changing syncs, cables, etc and every system and game seems to do the same. I have degaused, dont a factory reset on the TV, and changed with some settings in the technician adjustment settings. It's done this ever since I got the TV a few years ago. I thought it was just a fluke and would go away on it's own.

I did have the TV shipped to me, and it was on a pallet and VERY well guarded. Foam casing and bubble wrap everywhere.

What's odd is that game still look Ok from further away, and it seems less noticeable on SNES or N64 games, but more so on Ps1 or PS2 games.

Any of you BVM experts know what is causing this? Would be much appreciated, I am stumped.

Here is a video showcasing what I'm talking about. 16 seconds or so is where it's most noticeable.

https://vid.me/CRB3

Sorry about the poor image quality and camera movement hands.

[svensonson]

@mysticsynergy

you can try installing 4x 75ohm terminators for your bvm's bnc output ports.

[Fudoh]

What's odd is that game still look Ok from further away, and it seems less noticeable on SNES or N64 games, but more so on Ps1 or PS2 games.

your videos shows a 480i source. Not a really a fair comparison to a 240p source, is it ?

[mookie3three]

The picture from my AES has a shadowy effect as shown below. The output is RGB via scart to my PVM 20L5. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?

[grendelrt]

If this is the wrong thread to ask I apologize. I have a Radeon hooked up to a Nanao 2931 monitor and everything is working great via CRT Emulation 2.0. The one thing I would like to change is I want the desktop to run in a 15khz resolution, I was thinking 640 x 480 30i, so that when I run 15khz games the monitor doesn't have to switch from 31khz to 15khz. I mainly play 15khz games and every once in a while a 31khz game. I tried adding 640 x 480 30 Desktop to the user modes lines when importing but each time it still only adds 640x480 60P. Arcade OSD then starts at 640x480 60P and goes up from there into the super resolutions, which you cant use for desktop because they break the desktop layout.

[d_p 88]

Hey all, I found a CRT monitor in the area that I can't find any info on. Panasonic CT-2084-Y. I would love to know what the specs on this thing are. Here's a pic: https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/ele/5752896924.html

[Einzelherz]

Hey all, I found a CRT monitor in the area that I can't find any info on. Panasonic CT-2084-Y. I would love to know what the specs on this thing are. Here's a pic: https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/ele/5752896924.html

Ask the seller for a photo of the back. If it has RGB inputs, buy it.

[d_p 88]

Exactly what I was thinking. It does look like it might have some burn-in on the lower-right of the screen though.

[Guspaz]

Some googling indicates that the CT-2084-Y supports composite and s-video only.

[d_p 88]

Yep, only composite and s-video. Makes sense that it was used as a security monitor. The particular model was probably budgeted for it.

[MysticSynergy]

What's odd is that game still look Ok from further away, and it seems less noticeable on SNES or N64 games, but more so on Ps1 or PS2 games.

your videos shows a 480i source. Not a really a fair comparison to a 240p source, is it ?

So what I'm seeing is just the interlaced effect? It's true it looks better on a 240p source, but when looking at it up close, the screen still "jiggles" or bounces just a bit even on SNES.

[Fudoh]

what I meant to say was that it might be hard to spot what you're seeing considering that it's a 480i source. Maybe you want to take another video using a 240p source instead.

[mookie3three]

The picture from my AES has a shadowy effect as shown below. The output is RGB via scart to my PVM 20L5. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?

Anyone?

[atheistgod1999]

The picture from my AES has a shadowy effect as shown below. The output is RGB via scart to my PVM 20L5. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?

Anyone?

I guess the AES just has shitty RGB?

[Ed Oscuro]

Check the serial # of that Neo Geo.

http://nfggames.com/games/neorgb/

[mookie3three]

The rgb was ok previously, I was suspecting the cable.

[Ed Oscuro]

Does moving the connector around reduce the bleeding? It looks a lot like what I used to see with worn 31-pin PC VGA connectors.

[KnuckleheadFlow]

TOSHIBA 27AF42

I was pleasantly surprised by the 20AF41C I modded for RGB. It has the same MCU, jungle IC and comb filter as the 27AF42. Composite on it looks better than I thought possible which I guess is due to the comb filter, though I don't know if it's typical for late-CRT comb filters and I've only tried it with SNES and Genesis. It almost made the RGB mod disappointing. But not quite. I haven't tried the s video or component.
If it's cheap, I'd say it's probably worth getting. (BTW, the service menu can show total hours on, in hex no less).

[FinalBaton]

There's a Toshiba SD CRT at my local dinner that looks stunning. They're definitly a brand to consider!

[Blair]

Sony, Toshiba, Mitsubishi, and NEC always seem like the top brands for CRT technology back in the day. sharp and JVC were ok, but they handled other types of hardware better (JVC for instance usually made better consumer/pro-sumer VCRs than most other manufacturers)

[FinalBaton]

JVC made kickass professional CRT monitors though.
And I'm pretty sure they made some great consumer CRTs, at least with the i'Art line

[KnuckleheadFlow]

They also seemed to be the only ones that advertised the TVL count for TVs that had more than normal. 800 lines is what got me to pick up a AV-32D501 (and the fact it was $30). I'd love to know how many the 4:3 Trinitrons or any other better quality CRTs had, but that information doesn't see to be readily available. At least not where I checked; owner manuals, service manuals and manufacturers' archived websites.

[FinalBaton]

They also seemed to be the only ones that advertised the TVL count for TVs that had more than normal. 800 lines is what got me to pick up a AV-32D501 (and the fact it was $30). I'd love to know how many the 4:3 Trinitrons or any other better quality CRTs had, but that information doesn't see to be readily available. At least not where I checked; owner manuals, service manuals and manufacturers' archived websites.

were you the one who posted a pic of a 32d501 before? I'm curious to see how it looks like. will be buying a SD CRT for a friend and I'm considering the AV-xxd201/AV-xxd501

[KnuckleheadFlow]

I haven't gotten around to do doing the mod yet unfortunately and I won't until like October (what the hell happened to summer?!) since I'll be gone most of September.
I know that mikejmoffitt, OP in the TV mod thread, first did a 32" JVC and posted pictures of it, but I don't know if it's one of the 800 tvl models and I think he also did it differently, before Voultar showed the easy way. I think he used that THsomething RGB amp (the one in the retroRGB SNES mod), but I could be mixing that up with what he did with the Trinitron. Voultar's method will probably go easily on the D501 since it has the same (or very similar) jungle IC as the Toshiba I did first.
I too am eager to see the results. My idea was get the JVC since it's available and if it's not satisfactory, I'll get a nice Trinitron.

That said, I'm also looking for a 25" Trinitron to replace the Wells Gardiner in my buddy's MVS, which is on it's last legs. They never seem to show up on Kijiji, did they even make them in 25"?

[FinalBaton]

I haven't gotten around to do doing the mod yet unfortunately and I won't until like October (what the hell happened to summer?!) since I'll be gone most of September.
I know that mikejmoffitt, OP in the TV mod thread, first did a 32" JVC and posted pictures of it, but I don't know if it's one of the 800 tvl models and I think he also did it differently, before Voultar showed the easy way. I think he used that THsomething RGB amp (the one in the retroRGB SNES mod), but I could be mixing that up with what he did with the Trinitron. Voultar's method will probably go easily on the D501 since it has the same (or very similar) jungle IC as the Toshiba I did first.
I too am eager to see the results. My idea was get the JVC since it's available and if it's not satisfactory, I'll get a nice Trinitron.

That said, I'm also looking for a 25" Trinitron to replace the Wells Gardiner in my buddy's MVS, which is on it's last legs. They never seem to show up on Kijiji, did they even make them in 25"?

good luck finding a 25 Trinitron here! I have never seen one in my whole life. They're almost always 27 inches, even older models. There are rare exceptions though. The KV-25XBR comes to mind. But that one already has an RGB input. There might be others but I've never seen them.

[Einzelherz]

25 was an uncommon size in the US, at least. 27 is common and 26s did exist if my memory serves me, but they were mostly off brands.

[KnuckleheadFlow]

Dang. I could've sworn I remember 25" being a common size back in the day, but 27" is all I see. Guess we be better check the inside to find out just how wide that woody is ( )
Though going by what I remember, it's not much more than that monitor. Do Trinitrons go by visible measurements or tube measurements?