XRGB-3

[Xyga]

1024x768 output won't work yeah. You won't get much love until your real transcoder arrives anyway.

Also I assume you're using the backlight strobing mode ? Wow.

Don't forget to disable the various ECO settings, there's one to disable in the picture settings and another in the system settings (light sensor or something, I don't remember the name).

And max out the backlight if you don't fear for the TV. ^^

[spaceape]

That's caused by your scaler (which you use as a transcoder).

Thanks so it's the cheap chinese transcoder? I updated with some more pictures and rotated some of them to better show the shadows. It's more visible in real life.

[spaceape]

1024x768 output won't work yeah. You won't get much love until your real transcoder arrives anyway.

Also I assume you're using the backlight strobing mode ? Wow.

Don't forget to disable the various ECO settings, there's one to disable in the picture settings and another in the system settings (light sensor or something, I don't remember the name).

And max out the backlight if you don't fear for the TV. ^^

Yes i know the resolution settings in B1 properly don't do anything, it's just a temporary fix to keep the picture from moving to the left side. My higher quality transcoder arrives in 2-3 weeks (he has to build it first. ) and should hopefully fix that issue as well as the shadowy horizontal lines.

No im not using the backlight strobing mode as it is way to dark for me.

Eco was off by default on my set but i checked it anyway.

[spaceape]

I should maybe say that with the scanlines turned off the is no shadowy lines. At least none that i can see.

An extreme example with scanlines turned all the way up to show what i mean:

[Fudoh]

Yes i know the resolution settings in B1 properly don't do anything

the setting still affects compatibility. Whenever you run into a black screen, use the front buttons on the machine to set the output resolution to XGA (1024x768). In B1 that's the most compatible mode. On a running setup you should set the output to 480p instead, it gives a slight advantage if you compare the scaling in close-up.

[spaceape]

Yes i know the resolution settings in B1 properly don't do anything

the setting still affects compatibility. Whenever you run into a black screen, use the front buttons on the machine to set the output resolution to XGA (1024x768). In B1 that's the most compatible mode. On a running setup you should set the output to 480p instead, it gives a slight advantage if you compare the scaling in close-up.

Great. I sat the XRGB at 1024x768 and the transcoder to 720p. With the XRGB at the XGA resolution i got the picture centered and with the cheap scaler i sat it at 720p, all other settings would blur out part of the scanlines. Funny thing is the official scalers specs also recommend these settings.

Except for the drape type picture i like my setup very much right now.

[spaceape]

Don't forget to disable the various ECO settings, there's one to disable in the picture settings and another in the system settings (light sensor or something, I don't remember the name).

And max out the backlight if you don't fear for the TV. ^^

Found the light sensor setting in the more general picture settings and turned it off. MUCH brighter picture. You were right once again mate.

[Xyga]

Lol I suspected the light sensor because the W6/7's LED backlight is usually powerful-enough to burn the skin of a Dane.

[Fudoh]

You should see the Sonys with real LED backlight in comparison. Those are really bright. I use strobing + eco mode + backlight on 3 (of 10).

[Xyga]

You should see the Sonys with real LED backlight in comparison. Those are really bright.

[spaceape]

Lol I suspected the light sensor because the W6/7's LED backlight is usually powerful-enough to burn the skin of a Dane.

Wait...HEEEY!.

[spaceape]

You should see the Sonys with real LED backlight in comparison. Those are really bright.

[Xyga]

Yes, people of the North, take care of LED backlighting !

[spaceape]

Yes, people of the North, take care of LED backlighting !

You can't scare me.

[purple]

OK... so the wobbling sync issue with the XRGB-2+

It appears to be a timing issue from the OUTPUT of the XRGB-2+. There is a facility to "tune" the clock within the XRGB-2+ menu under DTC_TYPE (DOT CLOCK TYPE) and then USR_DTC (USER DOT CLOCK TYPE). Whilst this "alters" the timing it is no where near enough adjustment or should I say it's harder to adjust. Since I suspect you would need to AUTO re-adjust the LCD/PLASMA on each USR_DTC adjustment. Just changing the USR_DTC will have little effect on it's own imo.

With your LCD/PLASMA you can also adjust phase and pixel clock (same as dot clock) when using the VGA port (it will be within your TV settings menus). Phase seems to make little difference with the "wobble", but adjusting the pixel clock can erradicate it 100%.

BUT......

Based on my testing it only "appears" to totally eradicate the "wobble" using these adjustments on a 1080p native resolution screens. I have tested this on four LCD's and two it works on 100% and the other two you still get the "wobble" but it is greatly reduced. The two screens it works on are 1080p screens (one being a Dell Monitor and the other a Samsung TV)..... whether this is a coincidence I don't know. One of the other screens is a 720p unit (LG TV) and the other one was a 1280x1024 unit (Dell Monitor).

On the two 1080p units the picture is 100% stable after adjustment of their Pixel Clocks. Neither of these two screens are able to AUTO SYNC correctly.... you need to manually alter the Pixel Clock.

For reference my base settings on the XRGB-2+ are:

DTC_TYP: USER
USR_DTC: 802

None of this erradicates the wobble on the XRGB-2+ menus.... but don't worry as the console image is 100% wobble free.

I will get some YouTube videos up soon on the difference it makes with the adjustment etc.

I just felt stupid after many years pressing auto button fixed it completely, i'm surprised menus are still wobble but console image is perfect. Now how can I scale it better to my monitor?

[freyesm]

Not many here must know, but v2.40 for XRGB-3 come out in 06/10/2014 (or Oct 06, 2014).

I'm looking for the english version as only japanese version is available atm.

Link:
http://www.micomsoft.co.jp/xrgb-3_download.htm

[brownvim]

Is that the firmware or a new hardware revision of it?

Edit: From google translate it looks like it's an update to the B0 side, the widescreen mode?

[NightSprinter]

What Translate was showing was that for B0 Widescreen it uses the Zoom2 mode. Also seems to fix issues with vsync-lock fixes apparently, but most (if not all) of this really seems to pertain to the WINinP viewing program. So while there may be extra fixes possibly, the documented additions only seem to affect that one program largely.

[spaceape]

Can anyone tell me what the AFC & NTSC DC settings do exactly. Thank you.

[Fudoh]

The AFC setting is used to cure a warped image on top of the screen. Unfortunately the picture gets less stable with increseased settings. The NTSC DC setting is a weird one. Never found much use to it. It kind of controls the alignment between original and linedoubled rows.

[spaceape]

The AFC setting is used to cure a warped image on top of the screen. Unfortunately the picture gets less stable with increseased settings. The NTSC DC setting is a weird one. Never found much use to it. It kind of controls the alignment between original and linedoubled rows.

Yeah the latter one is wierd. I fixed the blinking in and out of signal on my original Xbox by lowering it to 1360. I Haven't tried the Wii, DC & PS2 with a 480p forced game yet but i'll imagine same thing will work with those. Still i would much rather try the Extron RGB interface instead since messing with this setting is pretty tiresome.

[spaceape]

Is it normal to get interference (vertical lines & wavy lines) when passing stuff through the XRGB-3? I've tried removing all but a single console and my vga to component transcoder. I even have it when there's nothing plugged into the XRGB (blue screen).

I get interference with both 240, 480i and 480p material (Scart/component). I've already added an Extron 203 to fix it's poor sync handling. Do i really need the Xselect-d4 as well to clean up the interference?

Im trying to track down the xselect but it's getting harder to find.

[Xyga]

No you shouldn't see interferences all the time, there must be something...interfering somewhere, because the XRGB-3's output is pretty clean by itself.

[BuckoA51]

I wouldn't exactly call it clean, the XRGB3 is very noise prone, but certainly not to the extent that you should notice noise over the whole image, typically more in dark grey/near black parts when you really look for it.

Why are you transcoding VGA to component? The XRGB3s component inputs are known to be noisy, the GAME IN is the least noisy, but why not just go in directly via VGA?

[spaceape]

I wouldn't exactly call it clean, the XRGB3 is very noise prone, but certainly not to the extent that you should notice noise over the whole image, typically more in dark grey/near black parts when you really look for it.

Why are you transcoding VGA to component? The XRGB3s component inputs are known to be noisy, the GAME IN is the least noisy, but why not just go in directly via VGA?

My tv (Sony KDL-42W705B) doesn't have any vga in, so im using a TC1600 from Crescendo. My VGA cables are new, short length and double shielded. My component cables are high quality. I really don't understand why i get this problem. When i plug the consoles directly into the tv i get zero interference.

The Extron RGB 203 rxi helps a tiny bit and also the LPF setting but it's not gone completely.

Maybe it's the cables or the vga out of the xrgb. . All my rgb scart consoles use the front scart connector on the xrgb. Im running in B1 mode.

Yes Bucko it's mostly noticable in dark screen areas but if you look closely enough it's there all the time.

[Fudoh]

If the noise is indenpendent of the sources you're using, it might be related to the power supply. Dying cabs can induce interference like this.

[spaceape]

If the noise is indenpendent of the sources you're using, it might be related to the power supply. Dying cabs can induce interference like this.

I bought my unit from solarisjapan.com. They do sell replacement psu's for the mini. Can i use this for my XRGB-3? If so i'll try getting a new one.

The noise is a little bit different depending on the console im using but it's still horizontal lines like an old vhs connection or something like that. It's not overly noticable but for me at least it's annoying.

[spaceape]

Here is a few examples. I've raised the black level using the extron to better show what im talking about.

AV Famicom:

AV Famicom:

Sega Genesis (slightly more prominent vertical lines)

Sega Saturn (thicker horizontal "bright spots")

Sega Saturn

[BuckoA51]

Hard to say from those pictures if it is normal or not. You definitely don't want to run the XRGB3 too bright though. LPF on or off?

[Xyga]

I think I've experienced something similar more than once, every time it was caused by a bad connection, mainly on the source side (loose pin on the scart side or a bad solder point somewhere...)