Cloning the Gamecube component cable

[Unseen]

for example the miniSpartan3 from Scarab Hardware - I haven't tested that one myself though, so no guarantees

I still haven't tested that board with GCVideo, but just from looking at the schematics I can tell that it will be a bit troublesome - it does not connect the 5V pin on the HDMI connector to the 5V supply available on the board, so many TVs won't accept a signal from it.

Unlike the Pluto board, the designer of the miniSpartan3 did not add a via for this pin to allow for easier connection, so to correct this fault one would need to solder a wire to pin 18 of the HDMI connector (looks like 0.5mm pitch) to connect it to the 5V supply. Alternatively, shorting pin 18 and 19 on the HDMI connector might also work.

[lev11]

The minispartan looks to be too long to fit inside, the pluto fits just snug with its side mounted hdmi port. The Shuriken Video looks interesting, just slightly concerned about protection as so much protrudes, though the he does indicate he'd try and make it smaller. Guess we just have to wait and see for now.

[bobrocks95]

The minispartan looks to be too long to fit inside, the pluto fits just snug with its side mounted hdmi port. The Shuriken Video looks interesting, just slightly concerned about protection as so much protrudes, though the he does indicate he'd try and make it smaller. Guess we just have to wait and see for now.

meneerbeer also has a board, and supposedly Megalomaniac is working on a plug-and-play version, though nothing has materialized afaik. They're both on gc-forever.

EDIT: Relevant tweet- might be worth waiting until news comes of it https://twitter.com/BadAssConsoles/stat ... 3302128640

If it ends up NOT being plug-and-play (some hints of this on his website) I wouldn't necessarily put it above meneerbeer's board, though we haven't seen the install process for either of course. Just saying that it's probably worth waiting to at least get a look at it.

[lev11]

On his timeline he refers to what looks like the Shuriken board having crippled firmware, I guess that means losing the OSD or some of the video modes, to make it fit on the smaller fpga. I think the flexibility of OSD is the killer feature of this, and that wouldn't be available with plug and play, unless that also had some manual switches. And wouldn't a plug and play need an external power supply for the 5v, or some kind of a male female dongle to go in-line on the cube's 12v supply, and a dropper to convert 5v?

[Unseen]

On his timeline he refers to what looks like the Shuriken board having crippled firmware, I guess that means losing the OSD or some of the video modes, to make it fit on the smaller fpga.

The Shuriken Video board is meant for an XC3S50A, which as you might guess has about one-quarter of the logic resources that the XC3S200A on the Pluto board has - so if you use the bitstream on its web site, you only get the minimal required functionality. Linedoubling, scanlines and OSD (and anything that can be selected there) are missing and the output always uses Enhanced DVI mode.

However, it doesn't have to be that way - the 200 chip is pin-compatible with the 50, so if you just fit the board with the larger FPGA, you can flash a full-featured version of GCVideo to it - the code needs a few minor modifications though because some signals are on different pins than the ones I chose for the Pluto board.

And wouldn't a plug and play need an external power supply for the 5v, or some kind of a male female dongle to go in-line on the cube's 12v supply, and a dropper to convert 5v?

That's no problem, the digital video board of the Cube has a 12V line available.

[bobrocks95]

Has anyone talked any more about applying this to the Wii? I think the issue was how close the pins are on the GPU or DAC, right? It would be another system that would really benefit from a digital output given the Wii's low-quality component output.

[KabuTheFox]

is it worth attempting this if i have zero clue about what i'm doing? (never modded a system before)

[bobrocks95]

is it worth attempting this if i have zero clue about what i'm doing? (never modded a system before)

If you're skilled at soldering it wouldn't be too bad. I wouldn't jump right into this if you've done neither.

If you're hesitant, as mentioned earlier in the thread, a plug-and-play solution may be coming in the next month or so, and it would be worth waiting.

[KabuTheFox]

is it worth attempting this if i have zero clue about what i'm doing? (never modded a system before)

If you're skilled at soldering it wouldn't be too bad. I wouldn't jump right into this if you've done neither.

If you're hesitant, as mentioned earlier in the thread, a plug-and-play solution may be coming in the next month or so, and it would be worth waiting.

yea very little experience in either

and i mustve skipped over that somehow, good to know. ill keep my eyes open.

[BONKERS]

Don't tease me with that plug-'n'play solution!

I want that Component cable hard

My GCN and GBP have been sitting unused for far too long

[Woozle]

Not sure why, but the IQ on with the HDMI mod is ever so slightly worse than with using the official D-terminal cables (I bought the cables just to compare). I routed the clock line by itself, any other ideas that could be causing it? Also, now if I'm playing any game over an RF connection and I turn on the GC I get insane interference.
I would take pics but I only have one power brick and it's kinda a PITA especially when my cell phone has trouble capturing the difference in a picture.

Hopefully the plug n play solution is cheaper and easier.

[bobrocks95]

Not sure why, but the IQ on with the HDMI mod is ever so slightly worse than with using the official D-terminal cables (I bought the cables just to compare). I routed the clock line by itself, any other ideas that could be causing it? Also, now if I'm playing any game over an RF connection and I turn on the GC I get insane interference.
I would take pics but I only have one power brick and it's kinda a PITA especially when my cell phone has trouble capturing the difference in a picture.

Hopefully the plug n play solution is cheaper and easier.

If you're using an HDTV, its 480p processing may be worse through the HDMI input compared to the component input. Fudoh mentioned something to that effect in his Sony W6 review.

[Woozle]

I'm using a Sony Bravia 40" KDL 40BX420 and the GC with component is running through my framemeister...I guess it's not the most fair comparison. I'll try to compare again when I have a way to plug my GC with d-terminal into the TV w/0 the FM.

[bobrocks95]

I'm using a Sony Bravia 40" KDL 40BX420 and the GC with component is running through my framemeister...I guess it's not the most fair comparison. I'll try to compare again when I have a way to plug my GC with d-terminal into the TV w/0 the FM.

Oh, well, duh...
You might still find that component looks better; as I recall the GameCube has pretty clean component.

[Unseen]

Also, now if I'm playing any game over an RF connection and I turn on the GC I get insane interference.

I'm not surprised, the signals were never meant to be routed over any length of wire - the harmonics from them are probably all over the RF spectrum. You could try to wrap them in aluminium or copper foil and connect that to ground to shield them a bit, but it probably won't help at all (and creates a short-circuit-hazard).

[Woozle]

Thanks for the suggestion, the RF is temporary until my NESRGB board gets here and I install it.

[BONKERS]

Something must be amiss. Because the D-terminal cables + Mini should actually produce worse looking results.
The Component input scaling and processing on the mini isn't all that great.

[Jockel]

I realize that this probably has been asked before. But can I buy a pre-flashed board w/ HDMI adapter somehwere that I just solder in and be done with it? I'm in Germany, if that's important.

[BuckoA51]

Thanks to Lev11 I now have a Gamecube with the Pluto-IIx XC3S200 HDMI mod in it for testing, it's very impressive.

I'm getting this weird problem on both my Sony TVs though. If I enable Enhanced DVI mode and use ANY progressive scan screen mode (either line-doubled or native progressive scan from a US Gamecube game) I get this weird ripple effect on the picture. This only happens on my 2 Sony TVs, one's a KDL-40Z4500 and the other is a W324000. I tried a variety of other displays with the same HDMI cable, cube and PSU and no issue. I can also eliminate the issue by running the Cube through my DVDO Edge and then to the Sony TV.

Turning off progressive scan instantly cures the problem, as does turning off enhanced DVI mode, but of course then, no sound.

Anyone any ideas? Here's a quick video we took of the effect - http://1drv.ms/1lk6RU6

[lev11]

I realize that this probably has been asked before. But can I buy a pre-flashed board w/ HDMI adapter somehwere that I just solder in and be done with it? I'm in Germany, if that's important.

You need 'Item#6112 (Pluto-IIx XC3S200 HDMI)' from KNJN.com. Its been mentioned before that they'll flash it for you, I guess someone confirmed it with them, I suggest just drop them an email first.

[bobrocks95]

Was it ever confirmed the company will flash it for you? I only heard maybe's

[andykara2003]

Does anyone have any large, really sharp still screen images of the mod in action?

[BONKERS]

is it worth attempting this if i have zero clue about what i'm doing? (never modded a system before)

If you're skilled at soldering it wouldn't be too bad. I wouldn't jump right into this if you've done neither.

If you're hesitant, as mentioned earlier in the thread, a plug-and-play solution may be coming in the next month or so, and it would be worth waiting.

Hopefully not just a plug and play HDMI version. *Fingers crossed*

[bobrocks95]

Hopefully not just a plug and play HDMI version. *Fingers crossed*

He showed the board briefly during his N64HDMI install and mentioned there would be a digital or analog version.

However, it sure didn't look plug and play to me... BUT it might be like one of his MegaDrive boards where you lay it over the solder points for the digital connector and it has matching holes. In which case it would be very easy to solder.

[Unseen]

(sorry for the delay, I saw your original message while at work and forgot about the problem later)

I'm getting this weird problem on both my Sony TVs though. If I enable Enhanced DVI mode and use ANY progressive scan screen mode (either line-doubled or native progressive scan from a US Gamecube game) I get this weird ripple effect on the picture. This only happens on my 2 Sony TVs, one's a KDL-40Z4500 and the other is a W324000.

My old 20" Sony had no issues - maybe I should ask people to donate me some problematic TVs. ;)

Anyone any ideas?

I have an idea and I think I found a possible culprit in the simulator. I'll try to fix it and upload a new release in a few days.

[Unseen]

I'll try to fix it and upload a new release in a few days.

I lied. The new release version 2.1 is on Github right now and features a one-pixel sync timing fix that may resolve your issue as well as a volume setting in the OSD because I have a crappy low-end projector that does not have any way to change the volume. Since I'm too lazy to add backwards compatibility to the way settings are stored, this release includes a free settings-reset too! ;)

[BuckoA51]

Dan sent me an updated Cube to test and I can confirm this has fixed the problem on my Sony TV, awesome work Unseen, thank you

[Jockel]

It's almost February, any news on the plug & play front?

[BuckoA51]

Bad Ass Consoles are working on a plug and play version, expected later in the year. It won't have the scanlines, line doubler/deinterlacer etc but, well, it will be plug and play.

We're looking to try and get a neater version of our existing mod that will hopefully reduce costs too.

[bobrocks95]

Bad Ass Consoles are working on a plug and play version, expected later in the year. It won't have the scanlines, line doubler/deinterlacer etc but, well, it will be plug and play.

Is that because you solder some lines straight to the GPU for those features?

We're looking to try and get a neater version of our existing mod that will hopefully reduce costs too.

You should be able to move the capacitor near the digital port to avoid cutting the back. Or hang it off spacers.