NESRGB board available now

[Einzelherz]

So I finally got everything back together (removed RF section of RF box and replaced with a minidin 9) and I plugged everything back in and I've got nothing. Not even the red LED. I suspect I damaged something in the power supply department so how do I go about sorting that out? I checked the voltage to ground of the 5 pins that connect the MB and the RF box and most were 0 except one which read 13.5v. I assume that's not right.

Everything worked find before I pulled the RF box, and I knew this was risky, but usually, I luck out.

In the 5 pin row the two most outside (closest to AV ports) are both reading as grounds. Not sure how I managed that...

Edit: Solved it. I crossed the VIN and ground on the NESRGB regulator input.

[Einzelherz]

So everything came out the way I wanted, where the NES doesn't look modified. Palette is set to the ch3-ch4 switch, and the minidin looks mostly stock and feeds both rgb and s- video. I had to mount it upside down, which is a little awkward, to make things fit better, and cause I didn't feel like hacking away at the chassis.







Apologies for the blurry photos. My camera is crap.

[daskrabs]

Finally got my AV Fami modded and working 100%. Just wanted give a summary of events for those that are considering doing the mod themselves, especially those that are not the best at soldering and do not have pro soldering/desoldering gear.

Gear:

Radio Shack Desoldering tool ($15) (mostly fail)
Radio Shack soldering iron ($25) (mostly fail)
M-Line Mark V pro-grade soldering station (~$100) (used with success)

Events:

-Bought a NESRGB, successfully desoldered AVFC PPU with cheap tools
-soldered the adapter board in backwards
-continued, thinking this was not a problem
-Upon completing mod, video/audio failed
-Desoldered NESRGB, destroyed adapter board, ordered new one
-After new adapter came in, resoldered everything correct
-Fired it up, worked. Yay.
-Tried a different game, FAIL. Black screen and loud buzz
-Tested AV Fami w/ stock PPU and no NESRGB, fail. Black screen and loud buzz
-Replaced PPU and CPU, stock AVFC worked again. I fried both chips on the AVFC (see below)
-Deciding not to work with obviously cursed hardware, bought a new AVFC and NESRGB
-Did everything correctly. Fired up, worked.
-Closed it up. Tested all games. All worked. Double Yay!

Afterthoughts:

-While it is possible to use cheap, AKA Radio Shack soldering and desoldering irons, I cannot recommend them because they simply don't get hot enough to melt the original solder on the PCB and remove the PPU. When I used pro gear ($100+), everything was tits.
-If you knock the NESRGB out of the socket after completing the mod, and you turn on your NES/FC, you might fry your CPU and PPU. This happened to me.
-The hardest part for an amateur is definitely desoldering the PPU. TAKE YOUR TIME. Add solder to pins that wont desolder, and try again. If that doesn't work, borrow/buy a higher temperature tool. Breaking the chip sucks ass. Again, happened to me.
-Follow the steps on Tim's site CLOSELY. Don't be an asshole and solder things in the wrong order/backwards like me.
-Using NESRGB composite. In some ways, looks better than stock, some ways worse. I say use stock after having seen both. At least for AVFC.
-Improved palette looks best of the 3 IMHO.
-I'm going to test my 1st NESRGB again, as well as my 1st AVFC for lingering effects. Probably sell them for either parts or working depending on outcome.
-In the end, it was worth the trouble. Learned a lot. Video quality on a PVM is tits.

[ms06fz]

So everything came out the way I wanted, where the NES doesn't look modified. Palette is set to the ch3-ch4 switch, and the minidin looks mostly stock and feeds both rgb and s- video.

Nice work, thanks for posting pictures. (I'd meant to ask you to do that, 'cause I wanted to see how it worked out, mounting the mini-DIN in place of the RF jack)

When I was toying with this idea I came to the conclusion that it wouldn't work, because it seemed the mini-DIN cable wouldn't be able to plug into the connector properly... But it's working out for you, I guess?

[ms06fz]

Finally got my AV Fami modded and working 100%. Just wanted give a summary of events for those that are considering doing the mod themselves, especially those that are not the best at soldering and do not have pro soldering/desoldering gear.

Gear:

Radio Shack Desoldering tool ($15) (mostly fail)
Radio Shack soldering iron ($25) (mostly fail)
M-Line Mark V pro-grade soldering station (~$100) (used with success)

I did my first install with a soldering iron and a piston-style desoldering pump... Yeah that wasn't fun. Too hard to effectively apply heat and then get suction before the solder cooled. (Usually it meant heating one side of the board and using suction on the other - but on the NES front-loader that's complicated by the presence of the expansion connector.)

For my second install (my precious AV Famicom!) I got a desoldering iron very similar to this one - I found it to be quite effective. So I don't think it's necessary to go for a $100 desoldering station to get good results for a job like this. Though I'm sure it helps.

[Einzelherz]

So everything came out the way I wanted, where the NES doesn't look modified. Palette is set to the ch3-ch4 switch, and the minidin looks mostly stock and feeds both rgb and s- video.

Nice work, thanks for posting pictures. (I'd meant to ask you to do that, 'cause I wanted to see how it worked out, mounting the mini-DIN in place of the RF jack)

When I was toying with this idea I came to the conclusion that it wouldn't work, because it seemed the mini-DIN cable wouldn't be able to plug into the connector properly... But it's working out for you, I guess?

It's a tight fit, but nothing is interfering. The jack needs to be nearly perfectly centered and in the case of the cable I used, as low as possible.

It took some time to get it oriented--basically soldering small joints on the RF box, screwing it back into the NES, checking, and repeat. Then when it was close enough (kinda crooked in two planes) I just solder-welded it on.

[joeblade]

Been keeping tabs on restock of the boards for awhile now but nothing as yet...any idea when these will be available to buy again?

[tacoboy42]

Been keeping tabs on restock of the boards for awhile now but nothing as yet...any idea when these will be available to buy again?

They are up now and was able to order one, I was waiting as well.

[LaC]

So I'm having a problem with a NESRGB I installed on a Twin Fami. I don't get any video (rgb, or s-video, or composite). Just a quick flash when it boots up.
Also I only here a few notes played slowly from the startup screen. Games do the same thing, just a few notes played slowly, but you can tell it's part of the original song.
I feel some trace has been cut or lifted during the process. But I've scanned the pcb pretty good and everything looks ok...
Anyone have any idea what I might focus on to find a fix?

[eightbitminiboss]

So I'm having a problem with a NESRGB I installed on a Twin Fami. I don't get any video (rgb, or s-video, or composite). Just a quick flash when it boots up.
Also I only here a few notes played slowly from the startup screen. Games do the same thing, just a few notes played slowly, but you can tell it's part of the original song.
I feel some trace has been cut or lifted during the process. But I've scanned the pcb pretty good and everything looks ok...
Anyone have any idea what I might focus on to find a fix?

I'd check in and around the PPU area closely.

[Monstermug]

Is there an idiot's guide to installing NESRGB board in a top loader anywhere? Something a little more detailed perhaps? No offense to Tim but the instructions on his website have bits missing. I started reading through this thread but 100 pages is a lot of shit to shift through. I mean I don't even know which socket the ppu is supposed to go in to in the version 1.7 nesrgb board. Also it states not to use a socket for the PPU chip yet I find a socket in the kit.

Here is the guide I am refering to btw: http://etim.net.au/nesrgb/installation-nes/

Stage II. Prepare NESRGB board.

2. Insert pin headers into NES motherboard. Solder.

4. Insert the pin headers (shorter part goes into the board) and solder only the end pins of each. (wtf I just soldered it to the motherboard) !!!

If you did this as per instructions, there is no way you going to be able to solder the PPU to the NESRGB board!

Stage III. Solder wires.

1. Cut, strip, and tin lots of wires to a length of 25mm. One length fits all. Use thicker wires for power and ground connections.

(wtf 25mm is like 2.5cm) That wont even reach past the NESRGB board.

Also I think he needs to make it clearer that the VIN on the voltage regulator should go to the VIN on the NES voltage regulator. I worked it out by looking at the pics.

It might be a good idea to state which pin is 1 and 2 on the CPU? Some idiot may not know. Maybe state that using the pins on the two resisters closes may be a better alternative?

Finally perhaps on the installation guide, put a note saying that if no palette is selected (i.e.) if no switch is installed only composite signals are passed through as if the NESRGB board wasn't even installed.

It seems the easiest part was removing the PPU chip! I did that in like 3 minutes and it came out perfect! lol

[ApolloBoy]

I mean I don't even know which socket the ppu is supposed to go in to in the version 1.7 nesrgb board. Also it states not to use a socket for the PPU chip yet I find a socket in the kit.

LOL, really? It should be very straightforward just by looking at the instructions! Also, the warning about using a PPU socket is for the front loader as there isn't enough space to have the PPU socketed (I installed an NESRGB in my front loader a few weeks back and confirmed this). With the top loader, AV Famicom and Twin Famicom there's plenty of room to have the PPU socketed.

[Monstermug]

I mean I don't even know which socket the ppu is supposed to go in to in the version 1.7 nesrgb board. Also it states not to use a socket for the PPU chip yet I find a socket in the kit.

LOL, really? It should be very straightforward just by looking at the instructions! Also, the warning about using a PPU socket is for the front loader as there isn't enough space to have the PPU socketed (I installed an NESRGB in my front loader a few weeks back and confirmed this). With the top loader, AV Famicom and Twin Famicom there's plenty of room to have the PPU socketed.

Version 1.7 looks different to the version shown in the instructions.

Also this!

7. Insert PPU and solder into place on the board. Do not put the PPU into a socket as there is not enough space (height) available for it to fit. Double check to make sure the PPU is in the right way around!

I must admit though, the instructions to make the scart lead was exceptional! I love the pcb that fits inside the scart and on the 9 pin din. I was dreading making the scart bit the most as those little pins are so annoying to solder wires onto, but those pcbs made it a walk in the park.

[Einzelherz]

I just looked at the pictures of all of the finished installs and set the riser pins and PPU to match.

[mufunyo]

Is there an idiot's guide to installing NESRGB board in a top loader anywhere? Something a little more detailed perhaps? No offense to Tim but the instructions on his website have bits missing. I started reading through this thread but 100 pages is a lot of shit to shift through. I mean I don't even know which socket the ppu is supposed to go in to in the version 1.7 nesrgb board. Also it states not to use a socket for the PPU chip yet I find a socket in the kit.

Just to clear this up once and for all, this is the amount of clearance you have in an AV famicom / top loader NES if you socket the PPU:

[ms06fz]

Is there an idiot's guide to installing NESRGB board in a top loader anywhere? Something a little more detailed perhaps? No offense to Tim but the instructions on his website have bits missing. I started reading through this thread but 100 pages is a lot of shit to shift through. I mean I don't even know which socket the ppu is supposed to go in to in the version 1.7 nesrgb board.

I agree, it's a bit unclear. But there's a few indicators:
1: One of the two 5V pins is labeled "PPU 5V" - this pin connects to the PPU.
2: On recent versions of the board the thru-holes for the PPU are bigger than the ones that connect to the main board, to make it easier to desolder and remove a PPU you've installed in a NESRGB.

Basically, the 40 pin footprint farther away from the edge of the board goes to the PPU. The set closer to the edge of the board goes to the NES main board.

Also it states not to use a socket for the PPU chip yet I find a socket in the kit.

The kit includes a lot of parts that you may or may not use depending on the particulars of your install. Some of it comes down to preference, some of it depends on what type of system you're installing on, etc. The question of whether to mount a socket for the PPU is mostly a matter of whether you have space for it.

Let me know if you have any other issues along the way, maybe I can help.

[LXXero]

Hi all, first post here, but I've been following the thread since I just got an nesrgb and installed it. Actually, it's working great, no problems so far with how it's setup now. I've got it wired up to a female scart socket while I wait for my 3d printed multi-av connector to arrive for my toploader, and I'm planning on redoing it a bit after that arrives. That said, there's a few more things I wanted to do and I wasn't really sure about them.

What's the current/best method for wiring up expansion audio in a top loader? I recall discussion regarding having to solder onto a resistor on the nesrgb board somewhere? The other end of it, I'm even less sure about, especially for the top loader, I've only been finding av famicon instructions.

I recall someone mentioning the idea of putting a resistor on the board to work with the nes everdrive n8's volume level out of the box, and then putting an additional resistor into the nes->famicon adapter to match the actual famicon cartridge audio output. I rather like this idea, any more details as to the resistor values to make that work?

I also saw some mixed opinions as to whether removing the 220uf caps is really necessary when using a multiav ->scart cable that has them already, is there a consensus on that? I am going to be using cables that definitely do have the caps, and I'm using that cable with my other systems so I don't want to mod the cable, but I've seen people saying it doesn't really matter.

[Edenal]

Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask a question about my issues with installing the NESRGB.

(To start of, I did confirm that the NES was in fully working order before starting)

The problem I'm having is that I do not get a working picture on with through the DIN8.
- On my PVM, I get no sync. Just a rolling picture, colors are fine though.
- On my LCD, I get no picture or audio at all. Except for a few frames after starting the console, I get a flash och audio + video, then it's gone.
- I hooked up the NES to a XRGB-mini. Same issue.

S-video is working perfectly. As shown in this picture:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5EWxs ... sp=sharing
*** Note that it's hooked up to my PC monitor through the XRGB-mini
The original composite from the NES looks very strange. I'm no expert, but I think it's luma only? This output worked fine before I removed the PPU. Maybe I broke or shorted something?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5EWxs ... sp=sharing
*** Note that it's hooked up to my PC monitor through the XRGB-mini

Pallet switch works fine. I've shorted Jumper 5. (Not that it made any difference)

I've followed the guide on Tim's site. And I'm just clueless in this matter. I hope you can help me shed some light on my issue!

[Skips]

Well I don't know about you guys but it fits perfectly fine in my front loader with a socket. Here is one I recently did for myself. This is going to be the last system I do for a good long time. I've done enough of these mods now that I can say that it is boring as hell now. I included a couple pictures of it running in component video through my capture device as well (click for full view). I also wired up the regulator this time just because why the hell not.


** Updated With Better Pictures**

[Sixfortyfive]

I've followed the guide on Tim's site. And I'm just clueless in this matter. I hope you can help me shed some light on my issue!

Test all of the following:

- composite video from NESRGB
- original composite video passthrough from PPU
- RGB using composite video as sync
- RGB using CS# for sync

If you're consistently running into issues when using the NESRGB's composite video output specifically, the capacitor for that output might be bad. This happened to me as well, so I'm wondering if it's somewhat common.

If anything else is also not functioning correctly, then I'm not sure.

[Pasky]

Is the top loader adapter board necessary for the Twin Famicom install?

[Skips]

Is the top loader adapter board necessary for the Twin Famicom install?

No, twin fami has its own adapter. The Kit goes underneath the Famicom PCB in the Twin Famicom.

[Pasky]

Any pics of a twin famicom install? Gonna do this next weekend on mine.

[Skips]

[Skips]

Just some more pics of the RGB NES running through the CVS287 component converter to my capture card. Nice and Crystal clear even for component video. Palettes being used vary. I get asked a lot how stuff looks so i figured id post this too.

[eightbitminiboss]

Any pics of a twin famicom install? Gonna do this next weekend on mine.

In case you want to swap out the DIN Connector: http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 1#p1030961

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

Thought I'd post here instead of starting a new thread. Is anyone here accepting commissions to install Tim's RGB kit at the moment? Does anyone have any recommended modders? I've asked around and found most of the big names on here either too busy, or disinterested with the prospect. I'm looking to get my NES Frontloader modded, or possibly a Famicom/ AV Famicom if that is preferred. If anyone here is looking for a commission, please PM me, as I'd like to get a kit installed ASAP (I'm in Toronto, Canada).

[mufunyo]

or possibly a Famicom/ AV Famicom if that is preferred.

AV Famicoms are probably the easiest to mod, since you don't need an external regulator, you don't have to drill any holes and can straight up use the multi-out connector. They're also the most robust and versatile, considering they don't have a lockout chip and don't require any modifications for aux audio.

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

or possibly a Famicom/ AV Famicom if that is preferred.

AV Famicoms are probably the easiest to mod, since you don't need an external regulator, you don't have to drill any holes and can straight up use the multi-out connector. They're also the most robust and versatile, considering they don't have a lockout chip and don't require any modifications for aux audio.

Sounds good to me, I'd want to use the system with a Retro_console_accessories SNES SCART cable, so the multi-out of the AV Famicom would make the install more simplified- thanks for the suggestion. If anyone is interested in a commission, I'm looking to send an AV Famicom to have one of Tim's RGB kits installed, PM me.

[Skips]

or possibly a Famicom/ AV Famicom if that is preferred.

AV Famicoms are probably the easiest to mod, since you don't need an external regulator, you don't have to drill any holes and can straight up use the multi-out connector. They're also the most robust and versatile, considering they don't have a lockout chip and don't require any modifications for aux audio.

Sounds good to me, I'd want to use the system with a Retro_console_accessories SNES SCART cable, so the multi-out of the AV Famicom would make the install more simplified- thanks for the suggestion. If anyone is interested in a commission, I'm looking to send an AV Famicom to have one of Tim's RGB kits installed, PM me.

If its an AV Famicom I will do ONE more. I shot you an e-mail.