XRGB-mini Framemeister

[Oliversum]

I used it on my 720p projector and a 1080p PC monitor.
Both gave the same results, only 1080p SNES works ok.

@Fudoh:
I started out with the 1.03 firmware and tested my SNES first. Had the same problem, so I instantly updated the firmware to 1.07A.
Now I'm using 1.06, don't know if something changed.
I will try different firmwares tomorrow and get some results. Is there some new firmware on its way?
Is there a hard reset or only the normal "reset" option in the menu?

I contacted the seller on the problem (which I thought was a sync problem at first), but he wasn't online till now.

I'm a bit frustrated, as I have 6 free days now, in which I could've tested the unit with all my systems.
If it's really a defect, I hope I can exchange it until the end of may, as I would like to use it then for a 4-day gaming session with friends.


EDIT:
Just tried Firmware 1.03 to 1.05, didn't help.

[NWrain]

@NWrain: I'm sure the exchange would have been much faster if Micomsoft didn't ran out of stock earlier this year. But hey, see it this way: you're likely getting a unit from the brandnew batch.

That makes sense. I guess getting a newer batch unit is a silver lining.

[shinjig]

I too recently starting having problems with my framemeister.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0aiDHwj3 ... e=youtu.be

No problems with my PS3 input, AV/Svideo from PS1, ZN2, or ironically CPS1 board.

So I bought a new one on ebay, but I'd like to get this one repaired if possible.

I wonder if solaris could be my middle man even though I didn't buy it from them.

[Fudoh]

I too recently starting having problems with my framemeister.

haven't seen the original intro in a while, but aren't the dropout exactly happening when the screen flashes ? This looks like a peak voltage problem with the source signal. What source are we seeing in the video ?

[shinjig]

Super Street Fighter 2 Turbo, yes there was some graphic glitches doing on during the flashes, but when it gets to the match the horizontal hold goes out completely as you can see a bit later one in the video. Unless you mean the input source, which is RGB.

[Fudoh]

CPS2/Supergun I assume ? If the sync breaks on the flashes, then you're feeding very high signal levels into the Mini. This might very well be the cause why you later on completely lose the sync signal. If you don't have one, invest a few $ into a multi-meter and get those RGB (+Sync) levels down to consumer standard levels (0.7V peak instead of 2.5V). Could very well fix the problem.

[shinjig]

How would I do that? I already have 2 scart cables that I could plug into the mini. One without any capacitors or resistors, and the other with 220uf capacitors and 75ohm resistors. But I don't believe I have anything on the sync line.

edit: I feed the signal through my extron sync unit and it seems to have stabilized the problem.

[Fudoh]

In general you should add resistors to all four signal lines until the peak levels are down to consumer standards. I'm not sure what the Mini can take over a longer period of time. On a supergun 75ohm are likely not enough. You might have to go up to 150 or even 200 ohms.

[lettuce]

How would I do that? I already have 2 scart cables that I could plug into the mini. One without any capacitors or resistors, and the other with 220uf capacitors and 75ohm resistors. But I don't believe I have anything on the sync line.

edit: I feed the signal through my extron sync unit and it seems to have stabilized the problem.

Does that mean you have a spare mini to sell then shinjig???

[Oliversum]

I'm back on Firmware 1.07a.

All things I did yesterday didn't help. Looks like a defective video chip or HDMI output.


EDIT:
DVI-Mode on 768p works perfectly on SNES and Megadrive.
PS2 does work somewhat ok with 768p (small vertical lines popping up sometimes), but has problems on other resolutions.
I'm thinking about the HDMI handshake being the problem?

[kel]

For anyone like me having colour space mismatch or image too dark in the dark areas or too bright in the bright areas it could be down to something very simple like not having the SD card inserted with the correct files on

I've had my Framemeister for about 3 months now and was never quite happy with it because no matter what I did the image was either too dark with missing detail or too bright and washed out depending on how I set my TV up. I tried with 3 different TVs with the same results. When I got the Framemeister it was already on the latest firmware 1.07a and I saw no reason to use the SD card because I thought that it was only needed to update. I noticed that the EDID options were greyed out in the menu and just thought that maybe they were meant to be like that. It wasn't until I put the SD card in with the 1.07a firmware files on that these options became available, not that I needed to use them though as once the SD card was inserted and the Framemeister was rebooted the picture all of a sudden looked just right. I am really pleased with the picture now and could kick myself for wasting 3 months wondering why it never quite looked right

[Fudoh]

DVI-Mode on 768p works perfectly on SNES and Megadrive.
PS2 does work somewhat ok with 768p (small vertical lines popping up sometimes), but has problems on other resolutions.
I'm thinking about the HDMI handshake being the problem?

what about lower resolutions like 480p and 720p in HDMI mode ?

[Fudoh]

it could be down to something very simple like not having the SD card inserted with the correct files on

hmm. If you leave the files on the card, your mini does a FW upgrade everytime it gets switched on. The SD card might be needed for the EDID stuff - right, but I don't how it would affect your brightness mismatch problems (?) At least delete the files again from the SD Card and have an empty card in the slot instead,

[Konsolkongen]

I still have all the update files on the SD card and mine doesn't update when I power on or off the unit. Only happens the first time I plug in the SD card with a new firmware.

[Smashbro29]

Just to comment on the xbox1 component problem someone was having earlier. Just played Jet Set Radio future in 480p with the official component cables (not the box that you plug your cables into, the actual set of cables) with none of the issues that guy was having. I've got an NTSC Xbox and it's not special edition or anything just a plain ol' black box.

[ZellSF]

Cable has nothing to do with it... It's a very well documented problem: it's the video encoder chip.

[Smashbro29]

Cable has nothing to do with it... It's a very well documented problem: it's the video encoder chip.

I know it's got to do with models, I'm just not leaving details out. Playing it safe!

[Oliversum]

DVI-Mode on 768p works perfectly on SNES and Megadrive.
PS2 does work somewhat ok with 768p (small vertical lines popping up sometimes), but has problems on other resolutions.
I'm thinking about the HDMI handshake being the problem?

what about lower resolutions like 480p and 720p in HDMI mode ?

720p HDMI Mode ist the one having the most problems.
For example on Super R-Type these lines appear on the text (brighter than the black background obviously)
and go way over the border of the 4:3 screen. So I can say it's not the input, but the output causing the problems.
I also tried it on a projector, a PC monitor and a Samsung HDTV (from 2008) all over HDMI and didn't get rid of the problems.

[CandyFace]

Is it only possible to get one from japan? i Live in Denmark and would really like to have one but 320€ + 30€ + ~150€ if taken in toll is just too expensive.

[Zappyraccoon]

Hello, I have a few question. For the PS2 I purchased an Extron 190, Sync Strike and a rgb scart cable. My question is, even though people suggest connecting the original XBOX via component would connecting it the same as the PS2 benefit the image any? I can't seem to find if it outputs RGsB in 31khz as well. Also, even though the Wii looks great through component would buying an NTSC-E Wii and using RGB scart look any better? Since I read that the North American Wii's don't have the wiring for RGB Scart. My current Wii is NTSC-U and can't test this. Thanks!

[Rymdkakor]

Hi guys, new here

I just got my framemeister after a long wait, I happened to order mine just after they went out of stock.
During the wait I've had time to read almost everything fudoh has written about scalers on retrogaming.hazard-city.de, watch most of fagin's videos on youtube, and order the apropriate cables as well as a bunch of snes games that I'm literally <i>aching</i> to try (yes it's real physical pain now).

As far as I can see it's got the long awaited firmware 1.08 on it, which I guess would be nice if I could get the dam...ehm pretty little thing working.
I'm using a euroscart to jap mini din converter from retro_gaming_cables off ebay and a 5V 3000mAh power adapter I got from the hardware store.
RGB only gives me sound and "no_input" (PAL SNES with RGB cable from seller benmemphis on ebay), the same goes for D-terminal (PAL Wii with solaris D-terminal to component adapter).
The only input that I manage to get both audio and video from is composite

I noticed that two of the wires on the mini din converter had come loose, so I bought a soldering iron and fixed it, sadly it made no difference.
I tried researching pinouts so that I could rewire the japanese mini din that came with the framemeister and maybe that would work but it only ended up with me spending an entire evening cursing and burning myself with the soldering iron, I'm not completely useless at soldering but I'm far from adept.


Any suggestions on what to do? I thought the framemeister should be practically p&p with the snes? :/

[papa_november]

Guys

Can folks using SCART switches lay out their WORKING setup? I.e., what systems, SCART switch, and cables (brand and model) are you using SUCCESSFULLY with your Mini?

Thanks,
Jim

I got a 4-port mechanical mini-DIN-8 switchbox and made 4 of the SCART-to-MiniDIN-8 dongles, and used the shortest DIN-8 cable I could find to plug the switchbox into the Framemeister.

What do you use in regards to the audio?. I see a lot of people using these DIN 15/8 switch boxes are they supposed to carry less interference than a scart switch box?

The audio goes through the FrameMeister with this setup. I suppose it's possible to tap the audio by modifying the switch, but I haven't tried that myself. There's also potential for more interference, but actual SCART switches that aren't fake pieces of shit are incredibly expensive for what they are. Good luck even being able to order the decent switches in the US (or anywhere in some cases).

[Thomago]

There's also potential for more interference, but actual SCART switches that aren't fake pieces of shit are incredibly expensive for what they are. Good luck even being able to order the decent switches in the US (or anywhere in some cases).

The "Bandridge Premium Performance 5-Way SCART Selector" I recommended earlier is available all over the world for for around 25.00$ (look on ebay!). It has no interference whatsoever.

[lettuce]

There's also potential for more interference, but actual SCART switches that aren't fake pieces of shit are incredibly expensive for what they are. Good luck even being able to order the decent switches in the US (or anywhere in some cases).

The "Bandridge Premium Performance 5-Way SCART Selector" I recommended earlier is available all over the world for for around 25.00$ (look on ebay!). It has no interference whatsoever.

Do u have a picture of the rear of this device, all I can find is the same picture of the front on the unit?

I also notice they do an automatic version as well, though I not sure automatic scart switches are the best?

[Thomago]

Do u have a picture of the rear of this device, all I can find is the same picture of the front on the unit?

Here you go: http://i.imgur.com/NrMYJWU.jpg
Kind of unspectacular. The audio out is crucial in my opinion since it enables you to easily avoid the Framemeister's not-so-great audio section. Btw it's important to cut the audio lines in the SCART cable leading to the Framemeister if you use the audio out; otherwise you will experience picture dropouts every now and then.

While am at it: Another picture of the switch's front, showcasing its stand. http://i.imgur.com/EHSmA1H.jpg
The rubber feet can be installed on the backside as well. The LED glows red if the selected SCART source sends a signal (and its voltage pins or whatever is needed for that are wired). The headphone jack works as you would expect btw; if you insert something, the rear audio is muted.

I also notice they do an automatic version as well, though I not sure automatic scart switches are the best?

They are self powered ... interesting. I have no experience with these.

[Fudoh]

I'm using a euroscart to jap mini din converter from retro_gaming_cables off ebay and a 5V 3000mAh power adapter I got from the hardware store. RGB only gives me sound and "no_input" (PAL SNES with RGB cable from seller benmemphis on ebay)

first check if the RGB cable is suited for a PAL SNES (= no capacitors in the scart header), then check all the ground connections. If you get no picture whatsoever on the Mini with RGB, it usually means that the ground is only connected to some pin which eventually isn't connected to the Mini. Had the very same yesterday with a Saturn unit.

[lettuce]

Do u have a picture of the rear of this device, all I can find is the same picture of the front on the unit?

Here you go: http://i.imgur.com/NrMYJWU.jpg
Kind of unspectacular. The audio out is crucial in my opinion since it enables you to easily avoid the Framemeister's not-so-great audio section. Btw it's important to cut the audio lines in the SCART cable leading to the Framemeister if you use the audio out; otherwise you will experience picture dropouts every now and then.

While am at it: Another picture of the switch's front, showcasing its stand. http://i.imgur.com/EHSmA1H.jpg
The rubber feet can be installed on the backside as well. The LED glows red if the selected SCART source sends a signal (and its voltage pins or whatever is needed for that are wired). The headphone jack works as you would expect btw; if you insert something, the rear audio is muted.

I also notice they do an automatic version as well, though I not sure automatic scart switches are the best?

They are self powered ... interesting. I have no experience with these.

Thanks for the info. I have noticed that automatic version has an additional button on the front labelled 'Record Select'. Not sure what its function is

[kel]

hmm. If you leave the files on the card, your mini does a FW upgrade everytime it gets switched on. The SD card might be needed for the EDID stuff - right, but I don't how it would affect your brightness mismatch problems (?) At least delete the files again from the SD Card and have an empty card in the slot instead,

Whatever it did it must have wrote it to flash because when I took the SD card back out apart from the options CPU_UPDATE, FLASH_WRITE and EDID_GET being greyed out in the menu again, the picture was still fine.

It did update the first time that I put the SD card in and that is when the brightness mismatch problems went away but leaving the SD card in after that did not make it update every time it was switched on.

I'm not sure why it fixed the problem because the Framemeister was already on 1.07A when I got it but updating it again non the less seemed to fix the brightness problem.

[Rymdkakor]

Hi again,

Downgraded the fw to 1.07A, still "no_input" with sound on RGB and D :/
I bought the RGB-cable from autstralia and as they also have PAL I didn't think there would be any problems, but I'm not an expert. It was listed as a gamecube pal rgb cable and I should note that it works fine connected to the scart input on my tv.
It sure seems like it the framemeister that's faulty considering that the component is not working either :/

Took some pictures on the cables if you guys have time to take a look:
http://bit.ly/YOk2jN
http://bit.ly/10kSugi
http://bit.ly/YOk76Z
http://bit.ly/YYvPoZ

[Fudoh]

Those won't work on a PAL SNES. PAL GameCube RGB cables are the same as NTSC SNES RGB cables. To make those cables work, you have to remove the capacitors and put in 75ohm resistors in the RGB lines instead.

No idea about why the D-Terminal connection won't work. I never had a PAL Wii unit. Is it possible that the output is configured for RGB output ?

Connect the Wii (with component) to your TV, set the output to 576i, then connect the green "Y" cable to the composite input on the Mini. Works ? Then connect (only the Y) to the D-Terminal input and take it from there.