NESRGB board available now

[Emperor Udan]

Have a JPN HVC-NES (top loader) that i will be installing the NESRGB in, do you need to do any further mods to get expansion audio from these system like you do the Front loader NES

Bump for that.
And sorry if this question has already been asked (108 pages thread curse...) but separate audio with expansion sound on JPN HVC-NES (top loader) is possible with this NESRGB or next revison board?

Just arrived in this thread sadly, wish more stock are coming from Tim.

[ApolloBoy]

Have a JPN HVC-NES (top loader) that i will be installing the NESRGB in, do you need to do any further mods to get expansion audio from these system like you do the Front loader NES also where do you grab the audio channel from on the mainboard of the HVC-NES i know its CPU1 and 2 resistors on the frontloader but not sure on the HVC-NES?

HVC-NES? That's a weirdass name for the AV Famicom. Anyway the audio locations are the same as before, there will always be a resistor for each audio pin on the CPU no matter what NES or Famicom variant you have.

[mufunyo]

Have a JPN HVC-NES (top loader) that i will be installing the NESRGB in, do you need to do any further mods to get expansion audio from these system like you do the Front loader NES also where do you grab the audio channel from on the mainboard of the HVC-NES i know its CPU1 and 2 resistors on the frontloader but not sure on the HVC-NES?

HVC-NES? That's a weirdass name for the AV Famicom. Anyway the audio locations are the same as before, there will always be a resistor for each audio pin on the CPU no matter what NES or Famicom variant you have.

I'm pretty sure the official designation is HVC-101, just like the US top loader is the NES-101 and the PAL top loader is NESP-101.

[Emperor Udan]

Anyway the audio locations are the same as before, there will always be a resistor for each audio pin on the CPU no matter what NES or Famicom variant you have.

Sorry to ask again, I don't speak a very good english, but does that mean it will be possible to have separate audio with expansion sound form NESRGB?

[Zets13]

Well, you can mix the expansion audio with the standard audio on the NESRGB, not sure if that's what you're asking about?

[Emperor Udan]

Yes in part, good to know it will take in charge expanded audio.
I was also wondering if we can create this "pseudo" stereo sound by separating channel?

[lettuce]

Thanks for the info, regarding the audio from the NESRGB is there any real benefit in doing this on the HVC-101 systems, I know on the front loader nes the audio was louder and slightly clearer but is this the same with the HVC-101 systems. I take it no extra mod is need to get the expansion audio then?

[Zets13]

The standard AV Famicom audio mix has the expansion audio too loud relative to the regular audio when it comes to non Powerpack games, so there is some benefit to remixing it on the NESRGB with the methods listed in the thread, depending on what you plan to use in the system.

Not sure if Tim would want to do this, but since there seem to be similar questions asked a lot, maybe it would be a good idea to update the original post with links to the audio comparison posts/guides, and possibly other relevant install issues?

[Einzelherz]

Semi related question: Is it possible to play a tall Famicom cart with an adapter on an toaster NES? It only presses down about a quarter of an inch and that doesn't seem like it's enough.

[lettuce]

The standard AV Famicom audio mix has the expansion audio too loud relative to the regular audio when it comes to non Powerpack games, so there is some benefit to remixing it on the NESRGB with the methods listed in the thread, depending on what you plan to use in the system.

Not sure if Tim would want to do this, but since there seem to be similar questions asked a lot, maybe it would be a good idea to update the original post with links to the audio comparison posts/guides, and possibly other relevant install issues?

Yeah ill be using this AV Famicom exclusively with a EverDrive cart

[ApolloBoy]

Semi related question: Is it possible to play a tall Famicom cart with an adapter on an toaster NES? It only presses down about a quarter of an inch and that doesn't seem like it's enough.

No. There's one adapter that has the Famicom slot outside the cart flap called the Family Adaptor, but it's extremely rare.

[lettuce]

So i understand that to get expansion audio on the AV famicom, you connect a wire (with resistor) to pin 46 on the cart slot, but do you actually need to cut the traces on pins 45 & 46 on the cart slot also?

[Einzelherz]

Semi related question: Is it possible to play a tall Famicom cart with an adapter on an toaster NES? It only presses down about a quarter of an inch and that doesn't seem like it's enough.

No. There's one adapter that has the Famicom slot outside the cart flap called the Family Adaptor, but it's extremely rare.

How did the game genie get around this problem?

[tacoboy42]

does anyone know if you can switch the palate during a game without resetting it or should that only be done when the nes is off?

[Einzelherz]

does anyone know if you can switch the palate during a game without resetting it or should that only be done when the nes is off?

You can switch while it's running.


I've come to the conclusion that it's near impossible to remove the power/AV unit from the back of the motherboard. I bought some solder braid to help with the removal and all I've managed to do is add some copper braiding to the solder joint, permanently. I was really hoping to get my MiniDin 9 plug in the exact same spot as the old RF out so it would look nice. Guess I'll have to settle for hacking up the case, which I really wanted to avoid.

[ms06fz]

I've come to the conclusion that it's near impossible to remove the power/AV unit from the back of the motherboard. I bought some solder braid to help with the removal and all I've managed to do is add some copper braiding to the solder joint, permanently. I was really hoping to get my MiniDin 9 plug in the exact same spot as the old RF out so it would look nice. Guess I'll have to settle for hacking up the case, which I really wanted to avoid.

Ha, yeah I had the same idea. I was gonna put S-Video where the RF was, NESRGB composite where the original composite was, and put a palette switch where the channel select was. I actually did succeed in getting the power/AV unit off my front-loader NES, but after a little exploration I didn't feel like it was going to be a very productive exercise.

Among other things, it should be noted that putting one of those mini-DINs in place of one of the RCA jacks is going to be problematic. The hole for the RCA jack isn't big enough for the mini-DIN female connector to be panel-mounted there, and if you mount the mini-DIN female behind the panel, the opening isn't big enough for the mini-DIN cable to connect properly.

I can understand your hesitation to cut holes in the case of your NES. I didn't think I would feel that way, but when it came time to actually cut the holes, part of me didn't want to. Some of it came from wanting to keep the casing intact, some of it was fear of screwing it up - but above all there's just a certain finality about it. Once you cut the case it can't be un-cut. It's permanent. But I went for it, took my time and measured the hole positions (I can't stand when people get their drill hits crooked!) and in the end... Screwed up, a little. Put one of my connectors a little too close to a screw post, so it was a little crowded. But other than that everything turned out fine, and I'm really happy with the mod. I think it's really the best way to go on a front-loader, and it's much easier to get good-quality mini-DIN cables than it is to get good-quality Nintendo multi-out cables...

[darcagn]

does anyone know if you can switch the palate during a game without resetting it or should that only be done when the nes is off?

You can switch while it's running.


I've come to the conclusion that it's near impossible to remove the power/AV unit from the back of the motherboard. I bought some solder braid to help with the removal and all I've managed to do is add some copper braiding to the solder joint, permanently. I was really hoping to get my MiniDin 9 plug in the exact same spot as the old RF out so it would look nice. Guess I'll have to settle for hacking up the case, which I really wanted to avoid.

You'll need to crank up the heat on your iron, if you have a variable temperature iron, that is.

[Einzelherz]

does anyone know if you can switch the palate during a game without resetting it or should that only be done when the nes is off?

You can switch while it's running.


I've come to the conclusion that it's near impossible to remove the power/AV unit from the back of the motherboard. I bought some solder braid to help with the removal and all I've managed to do is add some copper braiding to the solder joint, permanently. I was really hoping to get my MiniDin 9 plug in the exact same spot as the old RF out so it would look nice. Guess I'll have to settle for hacking up the case, which I really wanted to avoid.

You'll need to crank up the heat on your iron, if you have a variable temperature iron, that is.

I've got two 25 watt irons which probably won't cut it.

If anyone more familiar with the RF box's innards is around, is it ok to remove the components in that sq cm, or so without messing up the power circuitry?

And can anyone explain the channel 3-4 switch to me? I've tested its connectivity and all three pins are always grounded.

[darcagn]

I've got two 25 watt irons which probably won't cut it.

If anyone more familiar with the RF box's innards is around, is it ok to remove the components in that sq cm, or so without messing up the power circuitry?

And can anyone explain the channel 3-4 switch to me? I've tested its connectivity and all three pins are always grounded.

I've been wanting to do an RF box removal myself, but I haven't gotten around to it.

Check out this post here for some good info: http://blog.ampli.fi/nintendo-nes-rf-module-removal/

I'd like to do something like that, but have a multiout connector on the back. His mod requires using a 5V DC, but I would want to add the 7805 back in so I could use an original NES AC adapter. Then I would connect the NESRGB's composite output to the standard RCA A/V jacks on the side so it still works like stock, and put a palette switch on the back that just toggles between the three palettes (no option to disable, since this would break the stock video circuit anyway).

[greatfunky]

i've done a RF box exchange between a French and a US nes and it wasn't very difficult , with desolder braid and a 40W iron

[lettuce]

does anyone know if you can switch the palate during a game without resetting it or should that only be done when the nes is off?

You can switch while it's running.


I've come to the conclusion that it's near impossible to remove the power/AV unit from the back of the motherboard. I bought some solder braid to help with the removal and all I've managed to do is add some copper braiding to the solder joint, permanently. I was really hoping to get my MiniDin 9 plug in the exact same spot as the old RF out so it would look nice. Guess I'll have to settle for hacking up the case, which I really wanted to avoid.

It can be rather difficult it you don't have the right tools. I had to turn the temperature right up on my solder iron and then use my electrical solder pump station to suck the solder off whilst still having the solder iron on the solder

[DarkAries]

So after just buying a new board and using a spare NES, I did a proper install. Everything works. HURRAH! Now my current issue is I'm making it use the NES regulator, I put AS5 on it, but the thing is running super hot. Like hot enough that I smell the dusting burning on it and I can't hold it for long. Is this expected and normal, or should I just not risk it and use the separate one. Besides that I have it hooked up to the Assembler Games Wii plug with Helder's RGB to component, works wonders.

Edit: Should probably mention I'm talking about the heatsink, didn't touch the actual chip yet.

[leonk]

Semi related question: Is it possible to play a tall Famicom cart with an adapter on an toaster NES? It only presses down about a quarter of an inch and that doesn't seem like it's enough.

No. There's one adapter that has the Famicom slot outside the cart flap called the Family Adaptor, but it's extremely rare.

You can always use a game action replay. The GAR clicks down while it has a slot that sticks up. You then just slide the game into the GAR; no length constraints.

[Einzelherz]

Semi related question: Is it possible to play a tall Famicom cart with an adapter on an toaster NES? It only presses down about a quarter of an inch and that doesn't seem like it's enough.

No. There's one adapter that has the Famicom slot outside the cart flap called the Family Adaptor, but it's extremely rare.

You can always use a game action replay. The GAR clicks down while it has a slot that sticks up. You then just slide the game into the GAR; no length constraints.

Thank you for the info on that, and it seems slightly more common than the family adapter, but still rare.

[lettuce]

I take it that the AV famicom isnt true stereo?, as i noticed the multiout schematic has L & R pins for audio, i guess this is just dual mono???......

For those wanting to see the process of wiring up the multi-av out on an AV Famicom I made a handy guide:

Where the AV Famicom is concerned is there any real benefit to actually using the NESRGB audio over the AV Famicoms own audio??

[ApolloBoy]

I take it that the AV famicom isnt true stereo?

Looking at the very picture you quoted should have answered that.

[lettuce]

I take it that the AV famicom isnt true stereo?

Looking at the very picture you quoted should have answered that.

No not really, say says pin 11 is Left audio and pin 12 Right audio which says to me that its stereo, but im sure the AV famicom isnt stereo!

[mufunyo]

No not really, say says pin 11 is Left audio and pin 12 Right audio which says to me that its stereo, but im sure the AV famicom isnt stereo!

ApolloBoy means this:



Pin 11 and 12 are clearly joined together on the PCB.

[lettuce]

Ah didnt notice that, just saw the 2 trace lines coming from the audio pins and wondered if it was indeed left and right audio.

Just need to find the location to pick up the audio from the mainboard and plum it to the NESRGB (A & B) now then, is it the same R3 and R4 labled resistors as the top loader nes?.......

[darcagn]

It should be the 12K and 20K resistors, why not just use a multimeter and test continuity from pins 1 and 2 on the CPU to be sure?