Questions that do not deserve a thread

[CkRtech]

NormalFish - If you aren't opposed to using your PC as the primary mixing device (and don't need to hear two game consoles at the same time), you could run the external consoles to a simple RCA switch and run the output from that to the line-in on your PC.

From there, you can use software like "Audio Router" or "CheVolume" to assign what sound source outputs to which device - speakers, headphones, HDMI, etc.

I have no idea what your current hardware setup is (built-in sound on PC, 1/4" or 1/8" headphones vs USB, USB headset with mic built-in, external sound module, headphone amp, external DAC, etc...) but you could possibly do things on the cheap with software

[NormalFish]

NormalFish - If you aren't opposed to using your PC as the primary mixing device (and don't need to hear two game consoles at the same time), you could run the external consoles to a simple RCA switch and run the output from that to the line-in on your PC.

From there, you can use software like "Audio Router" or "CheVolume" to assign what sound source outputs to which device - speakers, headphones, HDMI, etc.

I have no idea what your current hardware setup is (built-in sound on PC, 1/4" or 1/8" headphones vs USB, USB headset with mic built-in, external sound module, headphone amp, external DAC, etc...) but you could possibly do things on the cheap with software

This hadn't actually occurred to me. That might work pretty well, actually. Thanks for the suggestion.
**
Tangentially, how would I go about converting SPDIF/toslink/whatever from my PS2 to something more common? Will I always need an active converter? Starting to look like I'll just have to break out audio from SCART to get something that's remotely common these days.

That approach will add some lag to the audio.

CkRtech's idea, you mean? That might be an issue for some games with audio queues.

[Guspaz]

That approach will add some lag to the audio.

[CkRtech]

Admittedly, there are a few variables that can range from you not noticing any audio lag at all to throwing your hands in the air and exclaiming "what the..." depending on your setup. Potential lag not just from the hardware, but from the software. However, it is a cheap thing to try out for starters to see how things go for your particular setup.

[atheistgod1999]

Can anyone recommend a good disc resurfacer for me to use? I'm thinking about either this one: http://www.amazon.com/JFJ-Video-Blu-Ray ... 346&sr=1-2 or this one: http://www.amazon.com/ProCare-Disc-Clea ... 346&sr=1-3 . Will the former do a better job because it's more expensive? My discs only have minor scratches.

[Guspaz]

JFJ is a well known name in disc resurfacing, and it's their higher-end products (the ones that cost $500-700) that you will see in actual use in stores that still deal with discs. In fact, I've had personal experience with that: I bought a copy of Symphony of the Night that just wouldn't read due to scratches, so I took it back to the store, who used one of the industrial JFJ machine to resurface it. Afterwards the disc surface was much smoother and the disc worked fine after.

I'm not sure that I'd trust the quality of a bargain bin disc resurfacer, but the reviews seem decent. Personally, if I really needed to resurface discs, I'd get the JFJ unit.

Big caveat: DO NOT RESURFACE BLURAY DISCS. That includes bluray movies, PS3, PS4, XB1, and WiiU discs. This applies to ANY disc resurfacer.

Bluray discs put their recording surface only 0.1mm below the surface, as opposed to 0.6mm on DVD and 1.1mm on CDs. Bluray discs all feature special anti-scratch hard coatings on the surface so that they don't need to use caddies. If you resurface a bluray disc, at best it won't do anything due to the coating, and at worst you'll destroy the disc.

It is safe to use one of these machines to buff the disc only. Resurfacing uses sandpaper discs, while buffing is more a polishing process that does't remove much, and IIRC will fill the gaps with a material.

Bluray discs are really hard to scratch, though, so it's unlikely you'd have problems with them in the first place.

[Ikaruga11]

Doesn't GameStop use those disc cleaners?

[ZellSF]

I have a SCPH-1001 PSX that spins discs, shows power light but only shows a black screen (composite, svideo, rgb). Any ideas?

[atheistgod1999]

Big caveat: DO NOT RESURFACE BLURAY DISCS. That includes bluray movies, PS3, PS4, XB1, and WiiU discs. This applies to ANY disc resurfacer.

Bluray discs are really hard to scratch, though, so it's unlikely you'd have problems with them in the first place.

That's good, because I only to resurface my PS1 games, PS2 games, and DVDs. I think I should get some replacement jewel cases for my PS1 games first, though.

[atheistgod1999]

I have a SCPH-1001 PSX that spins discs, shows power light but only shows a black screen (composite, svideo, rgb). Any ideas?

I got that model a few weeks ago on eBay and the same thing happened to me.

Try it with composite via the RCA jacks on the back. If the picture and audio come through clearly with those (like it does with mine), try fiddling with the connector until it works. That works for me.

Is the multi-out port really tight (like it is on mine)?

[ZellSF]

I have a SCPH-1001 PSX that spins discs, shows power light but only shows a black screen (composite, svideo, rgb). Any ideas?

Try it with composite via the RCA jacks on the back. If the picture and audio comes through clearly with those, it might be the same problem I have. If it is, try fiddling with the connector until it works. That works for me. Is it hard to plug in the connector?

RCA jacks is just black screen too.

[zakruowrath]

In terms of the original Mario Party for the N64, how hard would it be to remove the lines of code from the ROM that prevent the game from booting with the N64DD attached?

[atheistgod1999]

I have a SCPH-1001 PSX that spins discs, shows power light but only shows a black screen (composite, svideo, rgb). Any ideas?

Try it with composite via the RCA jacks on the back. If the picture and audio comes through clearly with those, it might be the same problem I have. If it is, try fiddling with the connector until it works. That works for me. Is it hard to plug in the connector?

RCA jacks is just black screen too.

Are you waiting at least 5 seconds after turning it on? It takes about that long after turning it on before the orange diamond appears.

If you are, can you hear the audio?

If not, try the RCA cables with a VCR or something to verify that they work. If not, try ones that you can confirm work. If they do, I don't know what the issue is.

[ZellSF]

Try it with composite via the RCA jacks on the back. If the picture and audio comes through clearly with those, it might be the same problem I have. If it is, try fiddling with the connector until it works. That works for me. Is it hard to plug in the connector?

RCA jacks is just black screen too.

Are you waiting at least 5 seconds after turning it on? It takes about that long after turning it on before the orange diamond appears.

If you are, can you hear the audio?

If not, try the RCA cables with a VCR or something to verify that they work. If not, try ones that you can confirm work. If they do, I don't know what the issue is.

No audio. Cables are fine.

Next question: is there anything special about the Genesis model 1 PSU or will any replacement of the right voltage and polarity do?

[copy]

Hopefully an easy question:

Does anyone know the exact specifications for an original NES power LED (i.e. number of lumens, power rating, size, etc.)?

(The reason I ask is that I'm buying a pre-modded RGB NES, and I think this modder puts in blue LEDs by default. I might want to change it to green, or maybe back to original red.)

[copy]

I guess my question wasn't so easy.

Let me rephrase: If I'm shopping for a replacement NES power LED in green or red, and my goal is to attain roughly the same brightness as the factory LED, what numbers should I aim for as far as volts and mcd?

[beatsgo]

Pulled the power LED specs from this blog. General rule of thumb is obtain an LED with similar voltage rating, use a LED calculator (or math using ohm's law R = V / I) to determine what's your resistor rating. If you install it and find the LED is still too bright, increase ohm. Vise-versa if it's too dim.

5mm, 3.7 volt – 20mA – 2600mcd

[NormalFish]

Follow up on audio stuff:
I'm hoping to get this mixer:


I'll be plugging my mic in to channel 1 using a 3.5mm to 1/4in adapter, though I may end up holding off on this right now.

My SFC and PS2 will go in to channels 3/4 and 5/6 using stereo rca cables adapted to 1/4in.

Headphones will go into the phones slot, of course.

Here's where I'm not so sure:
I'm thinking I will run the ctrl out in to the 3.5mm line in on my computer for recording/livestreaming while using my headphones.

Speakers (which have a built in amp afaik) are Main Out.

So then where can I safely plug in my computer audio IN? Should I put this in Tape, or can aux return second as an input channel, just with less options for balancing?

And is ctrl out the best for recording? Tape in seems like it might be a better option, but it's hard to tell since a lot of the information I've found on the net refers to things that aren't relevant or use jargon I can't follow.

Any input?

[Guspaz]

Aux return can be used as inputs (they're the channels 7/8 that get you the "Mix8"), but keep in mind they have no pre-amp and eq. There doesn't appear to be any way to control the level of those channels independently of the others, either: the aux master knob is for the aux send levels, not the aux return. You'll need to control it by using the main mix knob and then adjusting every other channel accordingly.

That said, you should be using TAPE IN for your computer (it's meant for it), and then push the "TO MAIN" button down. Also no volume control: it's mixed in at unity so it's assumed you'll control volume on the source.

Control out is the same signal as the phones out, it's meant for use in a control room where you can't hear the speakers hooked up to the main out. The CR/Phones knob will control the volume of both outputs at the same time, and you'll need to make sure that the "TO CR/PHONES" button in the tape section is disengaged, otherwise you'll only hear the tape input on your control/phones output (when disengaged, cr/phones gets main mix).

You should be using TAPE OUT for recording: it's a copy of the main mix, and it's meant for the purpose. Make absolutely sure, if running it to your computer, that your computer is not playing back the input on the output, because that will create a feedback loop as the main mix goes out through TAPE OUT, the computer repeats it, and then it goes back in via TAPE IN, into your main mix, and so on, and so forth. That said, you can also use CR or phones as your recording output, if you're not routing tape to it, it's basically the same as the main mix output except with its own volume control. The same warning regarding the feedback loop applies, though.

EDIT: The block diagram on page 20 of your mixer's user manual (http://mackie.com/sites/default/files/P ... 2FX_OM.pdf) is actually super informative for understanding exactly how all the inputs/outputs/busses/knobs relate to eachother. It's very easy to see what is connected to what, and how, and what other hardware is in between. For that matter, the rest of the manual is very easy to understand too, explaining all the functions quite nicely.

EDIT2: Common misunderstanding to note: the terms "balanced" or "unbalanced" for inputs and outputs has nothing to do with stereo balance, it has to do with the electrical signal. So the stereo balance and the input/output balance are completely different concepts.

EDIT3: Another note, channels 1 and 2 can also serve as a combined stereo input if you manually set the pan of channel 1 all the way to the left and the pan of channel 2 all the way to the right. But you're going to want to reserve them for microphones, because they have microphone pre-amps (see the gain knobs on channels 1 and 2) and the other inputs don't.

[NormalFish]

Fantastic post, that is exactly what I needed. Thank you for all the help!

[ZellSF]

Two questions, first a bit complicated:

1: I'm starting to think of acquiring a Sega Saturn. I do not wish to use a stepdown converter and want a native 220v power supply. I also want a US-NTSC console. Obvious solution is to buy a EU and US console and just swap PSUs. Here's what I found on PSU differences:

Type A is only used in VA0 motherboards, it is hold onto the top of the case. Pinouts are gnd, gnd, 3.3v, 5v, (not connected), 9v.
Type B is used in VA1 to 5, it is the "longer" power supply, always 5 pin with pinouts being gnd, gnd, 3.3v, 5v, 9v.
Type C is used from VA6 to VA15, it is the "shorter" power supply. NTSC machines have 4 pins: gnd, gnd, 5v, 5v. PAL machines use 5 pins: gnd, gnd, 5v, 5v, 9/12v.

From what I gather the third (if 9 digit) fourth (if 10 digit) number of the serial number tells me the Saturn revision. Leaving two questions: can I even do this for V6+ consoles (because of the extra rail that I think is for SCART voltage?) and is my thinking here right so far?

2: A bit easier, but I just ordered a Sega Genesis c-video sync RGB cable, because I have a model 1 and I had read the model 1 does not support c-sync. Apparently, that was my memory being faulty. It does support c-sync, but now I have the wrong cable for it. So:
http://www.gamesx.com/avpinouts/genesisav.htm
Can I just open the connector, move the cable that currently goes to pin 2 to pin 1 and get c-sync?

[ZellSF]

Also who sells high quality SCART cables?

[atheistgod1999]

Also who sells high quality SCART cables?

I hear good things about retro_console_accessories on eBay.

[ZellSF]

Also who sells high quality SCART cables?

I hear good things about retro_console_accessories on eBay.

Yeah sorry, should've said I know about that one, but are there any else?

[atheistgod1999]

Also who sells high quality SCART cables?

I hear good things about retro_console_accessories on eBay.

Yeah sorry, should've said I know about that one, but are there any else?

I bought a SCART-to-BNC adapter from retrogameingcables.co.uk before and it's really high quality. Try that site.

[atheistgod1999]

1. I have a BenQ RL2455HM that I use with my PC and HD consoles. With my PS3, when I set it to RGB full range, I don't see any more detail in dark or bright areas even when rapidly switching between full and limited ranges on my monitor. In fact, when I set my monitor to limited despite my PS3 being set to full, the image actually has more contrast (and again, no detail is lost and I was paying close attention to dark and bright areas), like the PS3 was actually outputting at RGB limited instead of full. I double-checked to make sure it was set to full and it was. What's going on? Can I fix this? Also, what's Deep Color Output? I turned it off because I saw some noise in the video.

2. What kind of FPGA lets me have custom inputs and outputs?

[Gunstar]

Here's a question, the original xbox has 32-bit colour depth I'm told, now I'm looking to get a component to hdmi converter but a lot of them mention being 8-bit (24 bit colour), does anybody know of any converters that are 10-bit?

[Fudoh]

Here's a question, the original xbox has 32-bit colour depth

IF that's the case, then it just adds an alpha channel for video overlays to the standard 8-bit per color channel. Don't worry about that.

[Gunstar]

Here's a question, the original xbox has 32-bit colour depth

IF that's the case, then it just adds an alpha channel for video overlays to the standard 8-bit per color channel. Don't worry about that.

I can't thank you enough, Fudoh! Also I told my friend about using a resistor on the Y input of the ebay scaler and he managed to fix the desynch. Thanks again.

[bobrocks95]

1. I have a BenQ RL2455HM that I use with my PC and HD consoles. With my PS3, when I set it to RGB full range, I don't see any more detail in dark or bright areas even when rapidly switching between full and limited ranges on my monitor. In fact, when I set my monitor to limited despite my PS3 being set to full, the image actually has more contrast (and again, no detail is lost and I was paying close attention to dark and bright areas), like the PS3 was actually outputting at RGB limited instead of full. I double-checked to make sure it was set to full and it was. What's going on? Can I fix this? Also, what's Deep Color Output? I turned it off because I saw some noise in the video.

Deep Color outputs 12-bit color, though games are probably limited to 8-bit. Also I really doubt the PS3's RGB range is flipped in settings unless it's just on an ancient firmware version- put up some actual test screens with the image viewer and there's probably black crush or washed out greys depending. That or your monitor is doing something automatic?

2. What kind of FPGA lets me have custom inputs and outputs?

I don't know what this question is asking... All of them? Are you sure you mean FPGA? Do you have a particular usage in mind or...?