Questions that do not deserve a thread

[ApolloBoy]

I removed the shielding covering the video encoder and output of my model 1 VA3 Genesis to try to see which capacitors I should replace (I want to fix the rainbow banding before the jailbars; I'll just disable the composite with a switch when using RGB) and since then the games have been acting up in crazy ways after it's been powered on for a good amount of time (I managed to capture a good amount of glitches on VHS) and won't stop until powered off for an extended duration and a barely-visible crack formed on it to the right of the vents. I'm guessing that that unlike the RF shielding on top that I removed a long time ago, that shielding was actually there to prevent the system from overheating. I'm guessing that without it there, the heat eventually causes the whole system to get corrupted (I occasionally got text saying illegal instruction errors and memory address errors and cartridge read errors) and the reason it works fine again (at first) after I turn it on again much later is because it cooled down by then. The crack is also barely noticeable and starts just to the right of the vents and goes diagonally right and downward, so I guess it's there because of how much hot air there was in that area. Are my assumptions correct? Can I fix the crack by melting it back together?

That's nonsense, that missing RF shielding shouldn't be causing anything like that.

[atheistgod1999]

I removed the shielding covering the video encoder and output of my model 1 VA3 Genesis to try to see which capacitors I should replace (I want to fix the rainbow banding before the jailbars; I'll just disable the composite with a switch when using RGB) and since then the games have been acting up in crazy ways after it's been powered on for a good amount of time (I managed to capture a good amount of glitches on VHS) and won't stop until powered off for an extended duration and a barely-visible crack formed on it to the right of the vents. I'm guessing that that unlike the RF shielding on top that I removed a long time ago, that shielding was actually there to prevent the system from overheating. I'm guessing that without it there, the heat eventually causes the whole system to get corrupted (I occasionally got text saying illegal instruction errors and memory address errors and cartridge read errors) and the reason it works fine again (at first) after I turn it on again much later is because it cooled down by then. The crack is also barely noticeable and starts just to the right of the vents and goes diagonally right and downward, so I guess it's there because of how much hot air there was in that area. Are my assumptions correct? Can I fix the crack by melting it back together?

That's nonsense, that missing RF shielding shouldn't be causing anything like that.

It's not the RF shielding, it's this shielding underneath it that covers the video output circuitry. I removed the RF shielding almost a year ago.

[atheistgod1999]

Is there a way to fix a flat screen SD CRT with the picture stretched horizontally on the left and right sides? It's a Toshiba 27DF46.

[tomwhite2004]

Is there a way to fix a flat screen SD CRT with the picture stretched horizontally on the left and right sides? It's a Toshiba 27DF46.

You asked the same thing four hours ago on the previous page, give people a chance!

There are still a few decidated threads on crts out there, i found this with a very cursory search, why not look for a few more and ask around instead of double posting?

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/index.php ... /forums/64

[donluca]

I'm looking forward buying a (New) Astro City cab for my shmupping and arcade needs.

Has anyone bought a cab from the http://shadaloo.eu store? Are they reliable?

The only thing I've found about them is a dissatisfied customer who bought a control panel repro and other people who bought small stuff like joysticks and buttons.

[kamiboy]

Good luck, they never seem to have anything in stock.

[werk91]

How safe are those power splitters to use with scalers or games consoles ? Will the power supply have to have twice the amperage ?
Seen them used a lot with 9v guitar pedal effects but that's about it. There's ones that split it 4 and 8 ways too

[Fudoh]

How safe are those power splitters to use with scalers or games consoles ?

absolutely fine. I use these on a MD/MCD combo.

Will the power supply have to have twice the amperage ?

If you want to use multiple systems at the same time, then yes - of course.

[werk91]

Thanks, the idea is to have only one powered on at any given time so that's quite handy to know.

[donluca]

Good luck, they never seem to have anything in stock.

I actually contacted them and have a Blast City available and a New Astro City in the process of restoring.

It looks like they don't update their website :/

[antron]

I have a problem with the left side of my arcade monitor when displaying PC or Xbox output.

If I shift the visible screen all the way to the left edge with the monitor controls it looks like some overscan wraps back on the image and creates light and dark lines vertically down the left edge.

Any easy fix?

Reading around this appears to be called fold-over.
Monitor has just been caped. Running in 24khz via UVC.

[Koop]

On my BVM whenever I hit underscan I get this in the bottom left corner:
http://i.imgur.com/C2QKC1d.jpg

Any idea what is it? Am I doing something wrong?

[Xan]

Why is it that most of the videos on surface-mount cap replacement involve cutting them off? Wouldn't a hot air tool be the cleanest way to get those things off while preserving the pads?

[tacoguy64]

How good of an idea would it be to flip the nec xp37 on its side to play games in TATE mode?

[FinalBaton]

How good of an idea would it be to flip the nec xp37 on its side to play games in TATE mode?

This is gonna be quite the hassle to flip!

Plus : won't you risk the monitor slipping from your fingers in the flipping process, since it's so heavy?

I think you'd better go YokoTate with this one! It will still give you a pretty big image since the screen is huge




EDIT : I guess if you flip it only once and leave it in TATE position, it would be fine. Still gotta be extremely careful for that one time you flip it though

[tacoguy64]

I definitely can't do it on my own and will get someone to help.
Just asking if the monitor will be fine if it's done gently.

[ryu]

Theoretically it's fine, but don't forget that the monitor wasn't built to last in that kinda of position. I wouldn't exclude the possibility of damage occuring due to strain, since even the chassis isn't exactly light in these monitors.

[accaris]

Question: I just picked up a Trinitron that was in pretty excellent condition (KV-20S42,) but there are settings in the service menu that don't do anything. I change the setting and nothing happens. Namely HSIZ, PAMP, TRAP, and PIN. I really need to adjust the horizontal size, because the overscan is rough on this one. Is there any way to enable this circuitry? Or adjust manually in the chassis?

[cfx]

.

[ApolloBoy]

Why is it that most of the videos on surface-mount cap replacement involve cutting them off? Wouldn't a hot air tool be the cleanest way to get those things off while preserving the pads?

The problem with a hot air tool is that you risk causing heat damage to the board. What I used to do when I recapped TurboDuos and Game Gears was twist the cap off with small pliers. The solder joints have actually been weakened enough by the leaked electrolytic fluid that the cap will usually come right off without much effort. I've never pulled a pad or trace this way either.

[atheistgod1999]

Will recapping the deflection circuits on consumer CRTs with bad geometry do anything?

[Ed Oscuro]

Not necessarily, it depends on the model and the exact symptoms.

[atheistgod1999]

Not necessarily, it depends on the model and the exact symptoms.

It's a Toshiba 27DF46 and it has horizontal geometry issues on the left and right sides (the edges are perfectly straight, though).

[ApolloBoy]

Not necessarily, it depends on the model and the exact symptoms.

It's a Toshiba 27DF46 and it has horizontal geometry issues on the left and right sides (the edges are perfectly straight, though).

Considering that TV is only 10 years old, a recapping won't fix that issue.

[Ed Oscuro]

They call this a "True Flat" screen - is it a flat-front tube? Geometry issues are pretty common on flat screens, especially symmetrical geometry issues.

[atheistgod1999]

They call this a "True Flat" screen - is it a flat-front tube? Geometry issues are pretty common on flat screens, especially symmetrical geometry issues.

Yeah, and I understand why. I thought I should replace the s correction capacitor.

[werk91]

Found this interesting topic about some BenQ LCD monitors that are basically multisync from what I can understand. From what I've seen before BenQ monitors always have nice colours and contrast and they're cheap too. So would a SyncStrike with any 15Khz source work ? Its a shame that the BenQ BL2205PT apparently can't support 4:3 picture as it's widescreen and TATE-able. Could've been good for all rounder setup with consoles and MAME etc.

[Xyga]

I doubt 'multisync' lcds even exist, the 15KHz signal on the VGA input gets upconverted to whatever compatible 31KHz mode the built-in scaler can do if it is flexible-enough.

And BenQ monitors aren't all the same, those featuring their group's-made VA panels have high contrast yes, but they also do IPS (AHVA), and I see quite old and really obsolete TN panels listed in that amibay thread: all three types of lcd panels will look very different.
Not to add with each different native resolution the upconverting possibilities and results will be quite different too.
In any case there's not a single manufacturer consistently making good or compatible monitors that would perform the same with the same source.

What they are doing on amibay is basically unearthing outdated low-grade monitors which are still carrying VGA, counting on luck to find some 'open-enough' to do that unconventional upscaling job.
Kind of a waste IMHO, I'd still for a genuine competent upscaler and a much better up-to-date monitor.
Although I personally don't care much about Amiga I think I've read there aren't much scalers really satisfying for it (?)

[Guspaz]

Sure they do, some G-Sync monitors have an allowable sync range of up to 30Hz to 165Hz. Of course, that says nothing about if they'll accept 15 kHz input, or if they do, how they'll handle it.

My Dell U2711 accepts 15 kHz input, at least on the composite video inputs (I'll try component when HD Retrovision's cables are out), but the image quality is so laughably bad that it's basically useless.

[Fudoh]

but only from a g-sync video card.