NESRGB board available now

[Sixfortyfive]

Also which connections do should i hook up for the multi out repo socket...

http://s25.postimg.org/w0yeljl4f/NES_To ... Pinout.jpg

Wouldn't it be good practice to wire all of them? You of course wouldn't need them all for individual use cases, but having everything available would allow you to utilize different cables for different setups (e.g. RGB cables using pin 3 for sync and RGB cables using pin 9 for sync). Seems like a waste of a multi-out if you're only partially implementing it.

I believe the main choice would be what to use for composite video on pin 9: V (NESRGB encoded) or PPUV (passthrough). I think the former is supposed to be higher quality but the latter could still be used even when the NESRGB is deactivated, unless I've misunderstood.

[ApolloBoy]

I believe the main choice would be what to use for composite video on pin 9: V (NESRGB encoded) or PPUV (passthrough). I think the former is supposed to be higher quality but the latter could still be used even when the NESRGB is deactivated, unless I've misunderstood.

PPUV only works if the NESRGB is shut off. The encoded composite video is much better than the regular composite anyway, especially since you don't get any jailbars.

[lettuce]

So what is regarded to be the recommended sync to use, Composite Sync TTL (CS#) or Composite Video (V)?

Also which connections do should i hook up for the multi out repo socket...

im guessing pins:

1
2
3
4
5
6
11
12

i guess i only need to connect pin 10 (5v) if im using a CRT TV and want the channel to switch over to the AV channel on powering up the NES, would this damage a device like the XRGB-Mini if connected up?

Also for some reason on the XRGB mini if i try using Pin 9 (Composite video) instead of pin 3 (C Sync/12+)i dont get a display

Huh? Why wouldn't you hook up everything to the multiout connector? Then your multiout cable would use whatever signals necessary depending on what type of cable it is.

Where do i wanting to be connecting luma and chroma sync upto on the NESRGB then?. This is the first Multiout sockets ive used

[adimifus]

Where do i wanting to be connecting luma and chroma sync upto on the NESRGB then?. This is the first Multiout sockets ive used

You posted a pin diagram that labels all the pins including luma and chroma. Luma is pin 7, chroma is pin 8. Sync is embedded in the Luma signal, so that doesn't need to be connected for s-video, if that's what you're asking...

EDIT: I may have misread your question. On the NESRGB itself, luma is Y and chroma is C.

[lettuce]

Where do i wanting to be connecting luma and chroma sync upto on the NESRGB then?. This is the first Multiout sockets ive used

You posted a pin diagram that labels all the pins including luma and chroma. Luma is pin 7, chroma is pin 8. Sync is embedded in the Luma signal, so that doesn't need to be connected for s-video, if that's what you're asking...

EDIT: I may have misread your question. On the NESRGB itself, luma is Y and chroma is C.

Yeah thats what i ment, just looked at the diagram on tims webpage, thanks though

[lettuce]

I have replaced the factory fitted regulator on my frontloader with a 5v 1.5a regulator and used thermal paste on the regulator and heatsink. But im still noticing that the heatsink is getting really hot to the touch, cant touch it for more than 2 seconds really. Is this normal as i would have though going from 1a to a 1.5a regulator would of helped with the heat build up??

Im starting to think that the external regulator that tim supplys is a must for the frontloader as the heatsink isnt very big when compared to the top loader nes's

EDIT: just test the heatsink with my microtemp device and its reporting 87c!, that seems a tad high!?

[ApolloBoy]

just test the heatsink with my microtemp device and its reporting 87c!, that seems a tad high!?

87 C is incredibly high, I'm surprised you haven't experienced any thermal shutdown issues with the 7805 yet.

[lettuce]

just test the heatsink with my microtemp device and its reporting 87c!, that seems a tad high!?

87 C is incredibly high, I'm surprised you haven't experienced any thermal shutdown issues with the 7805 yet.

Really?, i had it on for about half hour and the system didnt shutdown. I did notice that if i tested either side of the heatsink with the microtemp then it was reading about 45c but if i pointed it at the middle of the heatsink then it read 87c!. I guess the external regulator is a must then for the frontloaders, either that or make a larger heat sink

[Pasky]

iirc, the 7805 shuts down around 105-110C. But it may differ on manufacturers

[Zer0-2k11]

Im noticing the high temps with my frontloader without the NESRGB and a 1.5Amp 7805 as well. I'm going to put back a fresh regular 1 amp 7805 and use Viletim's voltage regulator. Maybe the 1.5amp voltage regulator is only good with the top loader because of the large heatsink it has.

[lettuce]

Im noticing the high temps with my frontloader without the NESRGB and a 1.5Amp 7805 as well. I'm going to put back a fresh regular 1 amp 7805 and use Viletim's voltage regulator. Maybe the 1.5amp voltage regulator is only good with the top loader.

Hmmm i wonder if a higher amp regulator would run cooler?

[JimboJ]

Hi,

has someone here ever had that kind of a problem? (it's my ntsc system, just modded)

Can't seem to find the problem.
[/img]

Jumper 5 been shorted, what sync pad are you using on the NESRGB CS# or V??

Yes this was with J5 shorted. Sync source was CS#.
But not much difference on the other sync sources. Not sure if it's a sync problem, rather palette.

It's the same palette problem for RGB and composite btw.

[JimboJ]

Hi,

has someone here ever had that kind of a problem? (it's my ntsc system, just modded)

Can't seem to find the problem.

It's possible to get this kind of effect by switching from PPU video mode to NESRGB mode after the game has already set the palette. To work properly NESRGB has to set the PPU's palette to two gray shades - but it can only do that while the software is setting the palette.

Some software will set the palette on a very regular basis, other software will only do so when necessary. So you might see if the problem clears up when going down a pipe or getting a star powerup, things like that. If so, this might mean you're selecting your NESRGB palette too late in the startup sequence.

I played for about 5 minutes. But no change in colors. Must be something else.

[Pasky]

I'm pondering a method to change the palette using controller presses rather than the reset button, probably use an arduino nano clone and hook straight into the controller ports on the pcb.

[adimifus]

I played for about 5 minutes. But no change in colors. Must be something else.

What happens if you use composite (or s-video) video from the NESRGB?

[Einzelherz]

I took the plunge so in about a month or so, expect lots and lots of stupid questions from me! (Intending to use a mini din 9 gen2 cable, for one.)

[lettuce]

Hi,

has someone here ever had that kind of a problem? (it's my ntsc system, just modded)

Can't seem to find the problem.
[/img]

Jumper 5 been shorted, what sync pad are you using on the NESRGB CS# or V??

Yes this was with J5 shorted. Sync source was CS#.
But not much difference on the other sync sources. Not sure if it's a sync problem, rather palette.

It's the same palette problem for RGB and composite btw.

Do you have a palette switch connected up or are you just shorting GND and pad 3?. Could try removing the switch (if one is fitted) or removing the jumper between GND and pad 3 and use the phono connection on the side of the NES and see if you still get the same issue

[JimboJ]

I played for about 5 minutes. But no change in colors. Must be something else.

What happens if you use composite (or s-video) video from the NESRGB?

I've tried composite directly connected NESRGB (V and GND) and I'm getting the same colours.


@lettuce: that's also what Tim had asked me. I'm getting a normal picture from the original NES output. Palette setting on 3 and grounded as well as nothing connected gives me the same picture.

What picture are you getting when you connect your modded NES via the original output?

So the NESRGB somehow isn't converting the picture? Or getting the right signals?

[lettuce]

I played for about 5 minutes. But no change in colors. Must be something else.

What happens if you use composite (or s-video) video from the NESRGB?

I've tried composite directly connected NESRGB (V and GND) and I'm getting the same colours.


@lettuce: that's also what Tim had asked me. I'm getting a normal picture from the original NES output. Palette setting on 3 and grounded as well as nothing connected gives me the same picture.

What picture are you getting when you connect your modded NES via the original output?

So the NESRGB somehow isn't converting the picture? Or getting the right signals?

With the no pads on the palette switch connected or bridge, it basically disables the NESRGB so if your getting a correct disable via the RCA original connections then its not the PPU chip or NES at fault, is the NESRGB.

So even with GND and Pad 3 bridge you still get the same messed up issue?

[Skips]

Just a heads up for anyone using an XM29 Monitor. I picked up an XM29 yesterday and am using the latest revision of the NESRGB PCB and it refused to sync correctly. PPUV, Composite Sync, Luma, and Composite Video all refused to sync on the XM29 at all. The first revision of the PCB worked perfectly with composite sync and the XM29.

Using an LM1881n with Composite Sync, Luma, and Composite video got the picture to sync however all of them had some major jitter in the top left of the screen. To get it to sync 100% correctly I had to use an LM1881n with the PPUV pin. That got it working perfectly. Just wanted to throw this out there for anyone that has this monitor and buys one of the newer NESRGB kits.

[ms06fz]

@lettuce: that's also what Tim had asked me. I'm getting a normal picture from the original NES output. Palette setting on 3 and grounded as well as nothing connected gives me the same picture.

What picture are you getting when you connect your modded NES via the original output?

So the NESRGB somehow isn't converting the picture? Or getting the right signals?

Normally, when NESRGB is OFF (no palette selected) its composite, S-Video, and RGB outputs will all be a black screen, and the PPU video output will look normal.
When NESRGB is on, the PPU video output should be two shades of gray only. The fact that it's not indicates that your NESRGB is not intercepting palette writes as it should (though as I said before you could also get this if NESRGB was off, then you turned it on, and the game software never rewrote the palette. You could try resetting the console maybe)

I'd recommend checking your connections. Which NESRGB pins are connected to the PPU, and which NESRGB pins are connected to the motherboard? Are all the connections good?

[antron]

I just want to say, for you in the US, this is the best $15 I've ever spent, even if it never works again:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... &gclsrc=ds


it effortlessly removed solder from all pins except the 14-17 problem ones (but Tim's trick there worked great)

just be sure to tilt it a bit to make good contact with the hole on at least one side.

[ms06fz]

I just want to say, for you in the US, this is the best $15 I've ever spent, even if it never works again:

I went a similar route for my second install, bought a piston-type desoldering iron, it worked great, I was able to get the PPU out much more quickly and easily than in the first install.

In the first install, I used a piston-type solder pump but it was one that wasn't integrated into a soldering iron, so I had to heat one side of the board, and apply suction to the other side. It worked but there were some pins that were hard to access (mainly due to the expansion port - it was a NES front-loader.)

[lettuce]

So i fitted Tim's supplied regulator to my NES today and the heatsink on the internal regulator is still getting super hot, i cant touch it for more than 2 seconds. Whilst the NESRGB regulator is hot as well i can touch that without getting burnt. Was suggested on the other page that the 7805 chip gets to 105c before shutting down is this all that will happen if the internal regulator is truly getting to hot, the NES will just switch off and will not cause any damage?

Its been on for half an hour now and hasnt switched off yet! Im going to have to test one of my yet to be modded NES's tomorrow and see if the heatsink on an unmodded system gets just as hot, maybe they're just designed to get this hot

[ApolloBoy]

Here's a dumb question, are you sure J3 on the NESRGB still isn't shorted?

[lettuce]

Here's a dumb question, are you sure J3 on the NESRGB still isn't shorted?

No otherwise the extra NESRGB regulator wouldnt be getting hot would it?

[lettuce]

The pin and socket connection make for a much more tidy install as well.....



cut, sprayed and fitted the multiout socket and palette switch......

[ApolloBoy]

Here's a dumb question, are you sure J3 on the NESRGB still isn't shorted?

No otherwise the extra NESRGB regulator wouldnt be getting hot would it?

Uhhh I'm looking at the picture of your NESRGB and J3 is clearly shorted.

[lettuce]

Here's a dumb question, are you sure J3 on the NESRGB still isn't shorted?

No otherwise the extra NESRGB regulator wouldnt be getting hot would it?

Uhhh I'm looking at the picture of your NESRGB and J3 is clearly shorted.

thats before i removed the solder from the pad, if the pad was shorted then the NESRGB regulator wouldnt be producing any heat surely?

EDIT: Should point out im using a NES Everdrive cart, i think ive read before that causes extra heat, is that correct?

[ms06fz]

Apolloboy: Here's a dumb question, are you sure J3 on the NESRGB still isn't shorted?

No otherwise the extra NESRGB regulator wouldnt be getting hot would it?

Uhhh I'm looking at the picture of your NESRGB and J3 is clearly shorted.

thats before i removed the solder from the pad, if the pad was shorted then the NESRGB regulator wouldnt be producing any heat surely?

If J3 is shorted, then the two regulators would be sharing the load of powering the whole system (NES + NESRGB) - and the distribution of the load would be fairly unpredictable. (It's possible that one of the two regulators would assume almost the entire load, or that the balance between the two regulators would oscillate) Generally you don't want two voltage regulators connected in parallel, I think.