XRGB-3

[Fudoh]

Is that only for DVI or is it prevelant in VGA as well?

yes, for both outputs. It's the XRGB processor which takes more time to process the picture in B0 mode.

[SGGG2]

My DC situations a little more drastic than yours since I need a dual console set-up to prevent cable swapping. So long as it gets the job done I'm straight, good on thinking installing the switch! Perhaps I should consider connecting the DC Box through the XRGB-3 after all.

The switch negates the need for cable swapping or a second Dreamcast. http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1870

[BuckoA51]

I'm enthused at the prospect of using 240p resolution assuming this projection display has it, make shmups such as Gigawing and Ikaruga look proper.

Not sure what you're getting at here, only CRT's support 240p natively, that's the whole point of the XRGB3. Also Ikaruga is 480p native and I think Gigawing is too.

[Fudoh]

Gigawing is 240p in the arcades and the japanese DC version doesn't support 15kHz RGBs output at all.

[Strider77]

I did the switch to eliminate the cable swapping and allow all resolutions possible to pass through one cable. I have ALL my systems (including the XRGB 2 and 3) routed through a matrix switcher with 2 outputs leading to my horizontal and vertical display. The Tate display handles 240p on up to 1080i natively and my horizontal takes 480p and 1080i natively.

So everything I have hooked up can look proper without the hassle of cable swapping and moving consoles. But I only use the B1 mode on the XRGB.

[Fudoh]

enlighten me: does a DC VGA box equipped with a 15/31khz switch output RGBs or RGBHV when used with a 15khz-only game ?

[BuckoA51]

Regarding D in 2, I've tried 3 different types of SCART to VGA cable now and the only one that seems to work with the XRGB3's D in 2 is the expensive Keene Syncblaster cable. I'm not that fussy about using D in 2 just it would make certain cable runs a little neater if I could, but I'm not spending £80 or so on a cable I don't really need, is there a cheaper alternative?

[Fudoh]

For my Saturn (which uses Composite video as sync, not pure sync) I use a 5 EUR Scart to VGA cable from eBay. Works like a charm.

Remember that Scart->VGA is a different cable than VGA->Scart, so maybe the ones you tried are just wired the wrong way ?

[BuckoA51]

My Saturn's using composite sync, if I use composite video for sync the picture drops every time it goes bright white. I tried two SCART to VGA cables from two different sellers, one from Ebay one from Amazon, both claim to be SCART to VGA (not the other way round) and neither worked!

[Fudoh]

And you did switch the input to RGBs in the XRGB menu, right ? The Syncblaster cable probably outputs RGBHV it's DSub15 end, while the eBay/Amazon cable only the H pin for composite sync.

[BuckoA51]

Yeah I tried all three sync options.. can't understand why they won't work then unless they are just wired differently to yours.

[Konsolkongen]

The RGBs' sync signal should be wired to the VGA's H-sync pin. I made my cable myself and it works fine.

EDIT: Are you using Japanese RGB cables with these cables? Then it's probably the wiring differences that's to blame.

[BuckoA51]

Nope EU Spec cables. I'll give it one more go later tonight..

[CrackLtd]

I just bought an Sega Everdrive, so i tested today my Mega Drive with that using the XRGB-3. Sadly i have an incredible bad picture quality with my Sega Mega Drive. Its the Model 1. I have wobbling and large 'shadowing' at the right site of objects and letters. Also there is darker and brighter jailbars. Very bad. Any hints what i can do for better picture? I am using a custom made SCART cable which grabs the audio from the front headphone jack and the video from the back. For some unknown reason, when i pull the audio plug the picture gets significantly darker. The quality itself doesnt change, its still bad.

[BuckoA51]

First step, try another SCART cable and then report back to us

[Strider77]

enlighten me: does a DC VGA box equipped with a 15/31khz switch output RGBs or RGBHV when used with a 15khz-only game ?

RGBHV, should be anyways since that is the setting I need to have the input set to on the XRGB. Makes it really easy to use on the XRGB3 though.

[Rock Man]

Is that only for DVI or is it prevelant in VGA as well?

yes, for both outputs. It's the XRGB processor which takes more time to process the picture in B0 mode.

Hm, this will serve as a reminder never to play Megaman X again in B0 mode. I can't bare the thought of input lag ruining my commands costing me bossfights and what not.

I'm staying in B1 mode from now on.

My DC situations a little more drastic than yours since I need a dual console set-up to prevent cable swapping. So long as it gets the job done I'm straight, good on thinking installing the switch! Perhaps I should consider connecting the DC Box through the XRGB-3 after all.

The switch negates the need for cable swapping or a second Dreamcast. http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1870

Appreciate the guide. I suspected a modified DC Box would eliminate need for another console. *saving guide to favorites*

I'm enthused at the prospect of using 240p resolution assuming this projection display has it, make shmups such as Gigawing and Ikaruga look proper.

Not sure what you're getting at here, only CRT's support 240p natively, that's the whole point of the XRGB3. Also Ikaruga is 480p native and I think Gigawing is too.

Perhaps I over-estimated analogue potential of my monitor. It's not a CRT, just your average LCD. I initially assumed it would take 240p since I remember the sales clerk telling me it could take all kinds of resolutions. You'll have to forgive my ignorance I'm still learning about these different monitor types. I also stand corrected on the shmups for some reason I thought Gigawing and Ikaruga were 320x240 games (most shmups are, aren't they?) If Ikaruga is native 480p while the US version of Gigawing supports a native 480 signal I may as well just play them on the default VGA input.

I just bought an Sega Everdrive, so i tested today my Mega Drive with that using the XRGB-3. Sadly i have an incredible bad picture quality with my Sega Mega Drive. Its the Model 1. I have wobbling and large 'shadowing' at the right site of objects and letters. Also there is darker and brighter jailbars. Very bad. Any hints what i can do for better picture? I am using a custom made SCART cable which grabs the audio from the front headphone jack and the video from the back. For some unknown reason, when i pull the audio plug the picture gets significantly darker. The quality itself doesnt change, its still bad.

This issue seems vaguely familiar... I encounter the dark/light bars too! Though they don't bother me much as I assumed it was just a side effect from the Genny's dated tech being exposed on HDTV's. I notice with the SCART to Component YUV converter these bars are nearly invisible on my standard def downstairs. The rightside "shadowing" seems a little disturbing though. I was unaware of this issue, at first... I thought the Mega Drive was just a little bit more pixelated than the SNES but now that you mention it I do remember taking issue with the shadowing in Sonic and Tails body. I'll have to play the Genny again, luckily I do have two RGB SCART cables. One for the Master System and the other for the model 2 Mega Drive (currently using that for 32X/Genesis/Sega CD super-set). I own a model 1 Genny as well so I could try that Master System lead on there and see if there's a difference.

Strange thing is, I never encountered any Mega Drive shading problems on the Coosis 1080 Ultimate Adaptor. Guess I'll be keeping it around after all. Also, dunno if it means much but when my friend bought over his AES system I seen vertical scanlines on the Coosis, was able to detain some of them through the XRGB-3 but I could never completely get rid of them.

I did the switch to eliminate the cable swapping and allow all resolutions possible to pass through one cable. I have ALL my systems (including the XRGB 2 and 3) routed through a matrix switcher with 2 outputs leading to my horizontal and vertical display. The Tate display handles 240p on up to 1080i natively and my horizontal takes 480p and 1080i natively.

So everything I have hooked up can look proper without the hassle of cable swapping and moving consoles. But I only use the B1 mode on the XRGB.

Wow Sounds handy!! I would like to see pictures of this set-up. I'm only using B1 mode myself after what Fudoh said.

[SGGG2]

I just bought an Sega Everdrive, so i tested today my Mega Drive with that using the XRGB-3. Sadly i have an incredible bad picture quality with my Sega Mega Drive. Its the Model 1. I have wobbling and large 'shadowing' at the right site of objects and letters. Also there is darker and brighter jailbars. Very bad. Any hints what i can do for better picture? I am using a custom made SCART cable which grabs the audio from the front headphone jack and the video from the back. For some unknown reason, when i pull the audio plug the picture gets significantly darker. The quality itself doesnt change, its still bad.

Sounds like bad capacitors. The ones used for the early models are notoriously cheap. Check out sega-16 for cap replacement info.

[Rock Man]

CrackLtd just tried out my Genny and everything looks okay. B1 mode with scanlines helps it out a little bit.

These are the cables I use.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sega-Megadrive-Gene ... 2eb2c3fcca

My suggestion, get the abnormality in the cable repaired or invest in better SCART cables.

[BuckoA51]

I think the jailbars can often be eliminated by using composite sync rather than sync on composite video, you'll need a mod for the Genesis to get composite sync however and it may not be worth it depending on how good your picture is without it. I just sent mine away for some mods and told Andy at Console Passion to do it anyway, because I'm such a perfectionist.

Hm, this will serve as a reminder never to play Megaman X again in B0 mode. I can't bare the thought of input lag ruining my commands costing me bossfights and what not.

How lagfree is your TV though? All HDTV's have some lag, the best ones around 10ms, the worst around 60ms even in gamer mode.

Perhaps I over-estimated analogue potential of my monitor. It's not a CRT, just your average LCD. I initially assumed it would take 240p since I remember the sales clerk telling me it could take all kinds of resolutions.

Well, there's a difference between being able to display a resolution and being able to natively display a resolution. Only CRT's can natively display all resolutions, on LCD's and Plasmas, the screen is made up of a fixed number of pixels and so any picture that isn't the same as your TV's native pixel resolution must be scaled. Most sets do a horrilbe job of 240p, usually its miss-handled as 480i and that is the reason the XRGB3 makes it look so much better, but you should go see Fudoh's site for all the gen on that (http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/).

I can vouce for PC Engine Sales too btw, she's pretty helpful and her work is top-notch.

[Rock Man]

I think the jailbars can often be eliminated by using composite sync rather than sync on composite video, you'll need a mod for the Genesis to get composite sync however and it may not be worth it depending on how good your picture is without it. I just sent mine away for some mods and told Andy at Console Passion to do it anyway, because I'm such a perfectionist.

Console Passion eh? I'll look her up. Let me guess the composite sync your referring to resides from the console itself as opposed to the video display on your TV? I was told that the way lossless RGB is achieved derives from h/v sync along the composite line. Always figured the composite part came from either the console unit or the TV. Judging by your statement there are two composite sources to contend with which can be improved, correct? TV gets buffed through XRGB-3 while the Genny benefits from internal system mod.

How lagfree is your TV though? All HDTV's have some lag, the best ones around 10ms, the worst around 60ms even in gamer mode.

If I was to ballpark it 10ms I can only really feel the lag when performing 1 combo on 1 game (Leona's V-Slasher Set-Up from KOF 2000) other than that I hardly notice it, is there a way I can find out my TV's lag?

Well, there's a difference between being able to display a resolution and being able to natively display a resolution. Only CRT's can natively display all resolutions, on LCD's and Plasmas, the screen is made up of a fixed number of pixels and so any picture that isn't the same as your TV's native pixel resolution must be scaled. Most sets do a horrilbe job of 240p, usually its miss-handled as 480i and that is the reason the XRGB3 makes it look so much better, but you should go see Fudoh's site for all the gen on that (http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/).

Yes that all makes sense. It's a lucky thing I'm investing in a CRT to put down the basement (no matter how hard I try, I cannot play Virtua Cop/House of the Dead on HDTV without a lightgun, just kills the experience) once I grab that CRT I'll occassionally bring the XRGB down for that full 240 experience. When it's not hooked up to the XRGB I'll be using it for simplistic purposes such as playing DOA2 raw and Lightgun games.

Also, I'm familiar with Fudoh's site, very informative. If not for it I would have been clueless on several things regarding the XRGB series. (XRGB-3 update process, USB-A leads, linedoubling, full processing mode, etc.)

I can vouce for PC Engine Sales too btw, she's pretty helpful and her work is top-notch.

Concur wholeheartedly.

[BuckoA51]

Let me guess the composite sync your referring to resides from the console itself as opposed to the video display on your TV?

Yes, this is quite confusing so bare with me. For a RGB picture you need one wire each for Red, Green and Blue, then at least one wire for sync. On most of the consoles there's a output pin thats pure sync, now this is called composite sync, pure sync, or pure composite sync, because it includes the horizontal AND vertial sync signals. Now unfortunately, the composite VIDEO output can also be used as sync, this is called sync on composite, or sync on composite video, with me so far? It's unfortunate that composite sync sounds like it could mean sync on composite video (in fact I think the two are essentially the same to a device, just one is a slightly cleaner signal than the other), this confused me for some time too.

Almost all SCART cables use sync on composite video, since this means that the cable is also backwards compatible with non-RGB SCART sockets (SCART is a hopelessly muddled standard really). However, by using the pure composite sync you can sometimes get a better picture, or solve problems like jailbars (typically on Megadrive/Genesis) or picture loss when the screen is bright (typically affects Sega Saturn). The differences between using pure composite sync vs sync on composite video will usually be marginal or nonexistant, but the XRGB3 is a quirky thing and sometimes it can make all the difference. (Please someone correct me if what I've said here is wrong, but this is my understanding of it!)

There's a third type of sync used in RGB, and that's RGBHV, which stands for Red Green Blue Horizontal Vertical. You could call this seperate sync I guess, on this setup theres a separate pin/wire for horizontal and vertical sync. You never see this in SCART, but it's used in VGA.

once I grab that CRT I'll occassionally bring the XRGB down for that full 240 experience.

Nothing to gain by using the XRGB on a CRT TV, it can be used as a linedoubler for CRT PC monitors though, of course.

[Rock Man]

Let me guess the composite sync your referring to resides from the console itself as opposed to the video display on your TV?

Yes, this is quite confusing so bare with me. For a RGB picture you need one wire each for Red, Green and Blue, then at least one wire for sync. On most of the consoles there's a output pin thats pure sync, now this is called composite sync, pure sync, or pure composite sync, because it includes the horizontal AND vertial sync signals. Now unfortunately, the composite VIDEO output can also be used as sync, this is called sync on composite, or sync on composite video, with me so far? It's unfortunate that composite sync sounds like it could mean sync on composite video (in fact I think the two are essentially the same to a device, just one is a slightly cleaner signal than the other), this confused me for some time too.

Almost all SCART cables use sync on composite video, since this means that the cable is also backwards compatible with non-RGB SCART sockets (SCART is a hopelessly muddled standard really). However, by using the pure composite sync you can sometimes get a better picture, or solve problems like jailbars (typically on Megadrive/Genesis) or picture loss when the screen is bright (typically affects Sega Saturn). The differences between using pure composite sync vs sync on composite video will usually be marginal or nonexistant, but the XRGB3 is a quirky thing and sometimes it can make all the difference. (Please someone correct me if what I've said here is wrong, but this is my understanding of it!)

There's a third type of sync used in RGB, and that's RGBHV, which stands for Red Green Blue Horizontal Vertical. You could call this seperate sync I guess, on this setup theres a separate pin/wire for horizontal and vertical sync. You never see this in SCART, but it's used in VGA.

once I grab that CRT I'll occassionally bring the XRGB down for that full 240 experience.

Nothing to gain by using the XRGB on a CRT TV, it can be used as a linedoubler for CRT PC monitors though, of course.

Initially I had a hard time wrapping my head around it, but I get the jist of what you said. Startling revelation, I bought a Saturn SCART lead from Raven that outputs a clean picture. My friend made the same order several months later, they guaranteed him it's a RGB SCART type. When he got it all it kept showing was an AV picture, the Coosis read the status as AV SCART. He bought 4 more Saturn SCARTS after that, all auctions stating they're RGB (as in straight off the composite sync line) however when they came in the mail they all read AV SCART once more. You can imagine my friends frusteration.

How is it I got lucky with the one Saturn SCART I ordered which happens to provide that rich RGB color depth. Is it because the custom made one I have has built-in PURE composite sync whereas my friends 5 cables derives color from just the composite sync yet none of his converters could even do this so instead it defaults back to your standard AV composite? I know that some European TV's were made to switch between AV SCART & RGB SCART my guess is the cables he bought were meant for them and not any of the converters he uses. I guess what I'm trying to do is get to the bottom of this mystery since I talked on the phone with him and he seemed really upset about it. I wondered if my cable working correctly had anything to do with the pure composite RGB synchronization. Is it a question he should ask in auctions should he buy another? I used to just read the phrase "RGB" and then call it a day. But there maybe more to it than that, confirming a cables RGB capabilities.

I'm familiar with RGBHV, DC being one of the only consoles that supports it natively. Also, the monitor type I'm going to buy for downstairs is a PC type CRT display. My other friend put me on to it. Once I saw how some DC games looked on there I was sold!

[HDgaming42]

I mean come on I know you love your scanlines but do you really want them on Dead Space 2 etc? Actually that might look kind of cool just to try.

That's the game I've currently playing through on my "current gen" systems. After I'd tried retro with my SLG3000, that's exactly what I did. It looked awesome! Only problem is the game includes "scanlines" on your HUD, and nearly all video windows that pop up. Doubling them up looks crazy. I eventually turned them off, but there were moments I really liked the look...

[BuckoA51]

How is it I got lucky with the one Saturn SCART I ordered which happens to provide that rich RGB color depth

I think your friend is either (a) jumping to conclusions (what does he expect the TV to say? Surely he can tell by looking if it's composite or RGB) or (b) using the cables with a non-RGB compatible SCART socket. Pure sync is not necessary for RGB, in fact only a tiny fraction of RGB SCART cables use the pure sync as discussed above.

Is it because the custom made one I have has built-in PURE composite sync whereas my friends 5 cables derives color from just the composite sync yet none of his converters could even do this so instead it defaults back to your standard AV composite?

No, your cable almost certainly uses sync on composite video. The colour information is in the RGB lines, not the sync Pure sync is not necessary for RGB, apologies if I confused you to thinking it was. Pure sync is almost always unnecessary too, just in the odd case of certain equipment like the XRGB3 (and some newer TV's) it is needed.

That's the game I've currently playing through on my "current gen" systems. After I'd tried retro with my SLG3000, that's exactly what I did. It looked awesome!

Hahah I might have known someone on here would try that...

[Rock Man]

How is it I got lucky with the one Saturn SCART I ordered which happens to provide that rich RGB color depth

I think your friend is either (a) jumping to conclusions (what does he expect the TV to say? Surely he can tell by looking if it's composite or RGB) or (b) using the cables with a non-RGB compatible SCART socket. Pure sync is not necessary for RGB, in fact only a tiny fraction of RGB SCART cables use the pure sync as discussed above.

Is it because the custom made one I have has built-in PURE composite sync whereas my friends 5 cables derives color from just the composite sync yet none of his converters could even do this so instead it defaults back to your standard AV composite?

No, your cable almost certainly uses sync on composite video. The colour information is in the RGB lines, not the sync Pure sync is not necessary for RGB, apologies if I confused you to thinking it was. Pure sync is almost always unnecessary too, just in the odd case of certain equipment like the XRGB3 (and some newer TV's) it is needed.

That's the game I've currently playing through on my "current gen" systems. After I'd tried retro with my SLG3000, that's exactly what I did. It looked awesome!

Hahah I might have known someone on here would try that...

*facepalms* Of course what was I thinking. The color quantities are housed in the RGB wires as it shoots a signal to the TV pulling the h/v syncs together from the composite source. Blerg! I still have a lot to learn about this stuff.

Okay! I'm horrified to say this, but looks like the Coosis made an epic fail. I asked my troubled friend over to test his Saturn SCART leads on my XRGB-3. I recommended he bring his Saturn too so I can test two of the same games simultaneously through SCART matrix. It appears the XRGB took to it like a fish to water! The image was clearly better, improved colors, better contrast. There was nothing wrong with the cables he bought, the Coosis seems to override the RGB aspect with crappy AV. Which is weird because it didn't do that for my Saturn SCART. I assume mines was customized using a different method from his. In any event problem resolved so that's what's important.

Now he's anxious to get an XRGB-3 because it will take HIS Saturn SCART leads. Go figure. Appreciate the input guy.

[BuckoA51]

AV just stands for Audio Visual, this doesn't mean it's not RGB, but you can tell by looking at the picture pretty easily of course. The Coosis website states it's RGB compatible, maybe your friends expecting too much from it? It's not going to rival the XRGB3. If the picture really is composite quality I'd return it.

I assume mines was customized using a different method from his.

Usually, all that is wired differently are the connections on pins 8 and 16, these control aspect ratio selection and auto selection. They aren't needed with the XRGB3 (I don't even have them connected in my Saturn SCART any more) and a videoprocessor will almost certainly just ignore them. They should never affect if you see composite or RGB.

[Rock Man]

AV just stands for Audio Visual, this doesn't mean it's not RGB, but you can tell by looking at the picture pretty easily of course. The Coosis website states it's RGB compatible, maybe your friends expecting too much from it? It's not going to rival the XRGB3. If the picture really is composite quality I'd return it.

I assume mines was customized using a different method from his.

Usually, all that is wired differently are the connections on pins 8 and 16, these control aspect ratio selection and auto selection. They aren't needed with the XRGB3 (I don't even have them connected in my Saturn SCART any more) and a videoprocessor will almost certainly just ignore them. They should never affect if you see composite or RGB.

Oh I know, I just used the word "AV SCART" to describe composite qualities those specific cables output. See, usually the Coosis tells you what the signal is in the status menu. If it reads AV SCART this indicates you're getting a picture similar to when red/yellow/white wires going straight into the TV. If you connect an RGB lead it reads "RGB SCART" confirming horizontal and vertical signals are synchronized at the composite level. They're both RGB regardless, I'm aware of that. One is just universally better than the other.

The Coosis website probably confirmed the Saturn was compatible because I told them it was. I was essentially their unofficial guinea pig lol. They provided me with one of their earliest 1080 Ultimate (SCART/w S-Video to HDMI) builds as a means of phasing out the 720p converter, an older product. I spoke with the managing director Alan Zao (cool guy btw) through e-mail and voluntarily gave feedback on the new Coosis devices performance. I recall telling him it did work with the Saturn (in addition to many other consoles I own) since it displays great on mine. It wasn't until later did I discover many incompatibility issues with my friends Saturn SCART's.

It's not just his device either, he's using the same type of Coosis I'm using (we both got the 1080 Ultimate). He had me test his Saturn cables on mine too and we kept getting a composite picture whereas the 1 Saturn RGB I have works fine on both our devices. The most perplexing thing about it is one of the Saturn leads he bought came from the same source I got mines from. The Coosis Saturn situation appears to be an unknown anomally. Even if we were to put our heads together I doubt we could come up with an answer. Either way, it's a good thing this problem is fixed by the XRGB because he plans on getting it some day. Btw, this is slightly off topic but some what related. During my tests I found out the Coosis rejects the Dreamcast SCART. Whenever it's connected through SCART (RGB) I get a jumpy picture. I remember making a post about it on the shmups forum, I was told it could be due to the wrong signal voltage or timing mechanisim. Remember being pissed off about it, I wonder if they managed to fix the problem with the DC yet. How ironic that the whole DC not working thing is what prompted me to go get the XRGB-3. I suspected it might work since it's better at handeling analogue equipment.

I have to go out but when I return. I'll check the Coosis website compad list to see if it's updated.

[BuckoA51]

Actually what I posted earlier was inaccurate. For video processors/TV's that support both composite and RGB via SCART, pin 16 on the SCART cable MUST have at least 1.3 volts applied to it. This says to the TV "hey, there should be an RGB signal here!" I can confirm that the XRGB3 ignores this though (I doubt it even supports composite via the GAME IN port).

Also, its quite unlikely that your friend has 3 or more Saturn SCART cables that are not properly wired, Raven Games normally take their time shipping cables but the cables they do supply are good quality, in my experience.

[CrackLtd]

Remeber, three days ago i reported i had problems with picture quality on a Sega Mega Drive Model 1. Now, i resoldered the RGB Cable and this way i increased picture quality. The Shadows on the right side of objects and letters are completly gone now, the slight wobble was because the AFC Level was to high, it was 4, now i adjusted it to 0. One thing i was not able to get rid of: the jailbars. Well these are not the usual jailbars like they occur from bad shielded cables or weak power supplies. I think these jailbars are kind of typical for Genesis consoles. They have the width of exactly one pixel and they alter: bright, dark, bright, dark (aso.) one bar beneath the other over the complete picture. This can be seen especially when the shown graphics has large single coloured areas. I tried a Genesis Model 2 too, here these bars are not that immanent, they are still there, tho. For some reason on the Model 2 they will be nearly invisible as soon i switch the system to PAL 50Hz while this doesnt help at all on Model 1. Of course i like my system to play at NTSC 60Hz for speed reasons. And i adjusted the XRGB-3 this way, on switching to 50Hz the complete picture sadly gets out of place. Unfortunately the XRGB-3 has no presets where you could save the current parameters to, so each time you switch 50/60 Hz, or you change the console system, you have to dial in the new settings. Very unconvenient and disappointing. Ok, any ideas about the jailbars? Thanks for reading me, greetings. (Edit: Another problem with the Model 2 is, it is making some hum noise especially when there is bright colors on screen. Any solution for that?)