there is a white band at the top of the screen and a multi coloured one at the bottom when the monitor is displaying a black screen on a PS3, what is the cause of this/thoughts?
ps:
My snes is missing it's official scart, does anyone know a great place to buy a pal snes compatible high quality scart? Thank you
Last edited by DrKingSchultz on Sun Jun 14, 2015 1:35 am, edited 2 times in total.
DrKingSchultz wrote:
there is a white band at the top of the screen and a multi coloured one at the bottom when the monitor is displaying a black screen, what is the cause of this/thoughts?
Interesting as I've gotten the same with some systems outputs...I believe it was on my Genesis only. Fudoh had mentioned to me that the color band is the pallet being used and it's normal to be displayed. You'd correct it with overscan. The white band I never figured out, so +1 to this issue. The white was displayed on the left side of the image for me and was only when using an XRGB mini, so maybe a different issue...
Only problem is that the included BKM-24N supposedly doesn't work, which I knew when I bought the monitor. It's recognized but basically won't take any signals. Does anyone have any idea what the problem may be?
Other than that I'm 100% satisfied. Being crazy is worth it sometimes.
So here comes more captures. This time, pure NesRGB glory! Spoiler
This has to be the most amusing monitor of them all. No matter what I try, everything looks pretty much perfect. Contrast, brightness, sharpness and colors are all excellent. I don't get this at all, but it doesn't matter, just keep on playing and loving it!
You show off . I think games with lower/less color palettes look better tbh.. I love mostly the look of System 16 type games: outrun, afterburner etc. The blue/red etc skys and fireballs just pop out of the screen. Long live CRT.
just nabbed a bvm20f1u from the harpo studios auction for $60. has 66k crt hours and 70k hours total... basically ran for 8 years straight.
once I turn it on, it actually takes awhile for the colors to normalize and for the scanlines to stop scrolling. currently hooking up a saturn via composite cables. should it take like 5 minutes or so to warm up?
was bidding on a BVMA32 earlier, thought I may win it as it was untested with no video cards, put £100 down which I thought was a reasonable amount, woke up today and someone one it for £450! some people must be made of money.
If it’s working without issues 450 pounds is very reasonable. The BKM-16R is worth a few bucks too. Although to track down needed input cards (especially the 68x) can be a pain.
Something else: If I got a YPbPr source connected to the 68x, will it properly sync through Y?
Some-Mist wrote:just nabbed a bvm20f1u from the harpo studios auction for $60. has 66k crt hours and 70k hours total... basically ran for 8 years straight.
once I turn it on, it actually takes awhile for the colors to normalize and for the scanlines to stop scrolling. currently hooking up a saturn via composite cables. should it take like 5 minutes or so to warm up?
the Manuel says 30mins warm up time or something,, both my BVMs pictures look best after they have been on for 10-20min or so, and mine has lower hours than urs,,,
sixbynine wrote:If it’s working without issues 450 pounds is very reasonable. The BKM-16R is worth a few bucks too. Although to track down needed input cards (especially the 68x) can be a pain.
Something else: If I got a YPbPr source connected to the 68x, will it properly sync through Y?
I guess Im just jealous really. If it works fine then I could see why that would be a good deal, it is a bit of a gamble though.
Some-Mist wrote:just nabbed a bvm20f1u from the harpo studios auction for $60. has 66k crt hours and 70k hours total... basically ran for 8 years straight.
once I turn it on, it actually takes awhile for the colors to normalize and for the scanlines to stop scrolling. currently hooking up a saturn via composite cables. should it take like 5 minutes or so to warm up?
the Manuel says 30mins warm up time or something,, both my BVMs pictures look best after they have been on for 10-20min or so, and mine has lower hours than urs,,,
ayy... thanks for the response. so far I've done pretty good at configuring it without the manual but I should probably flip through it a bit.
do you usually leave it on standby for 30 minutes? I guess it makes sense that it takes so long to boot since most places just kept it on 24/7 anyway.
Some-Mist wrote:just nabbed a bvm20f1u from the harpo studios auction for $60. has 66k crt hours and 70k hours total... basically ran for 8 years straight.
once I turn it on, it actually takes awhile for the colors to normalize and for the scanlines to stop scrolling. currently hooking up a saturn via composite cables. should it take like 5 minutes or so to warm up?
the Manuel says 30mins warm up time or something,, both my BVMs pictures look best after they have been on for 10-20min or so, and mine has lower hours than urs,,,
ayy... thanks for the response. so far I've done pretty good at configuring it without the manual but I should probably flip through it a bit.
do you usually leave it on standby for 30 minutes? I guess it makes sense that it takes so long to boot since most places just kept it on 24/7 anyway.
i usually put them on with no signal for 15mins then start playing. I want to re cap my deflector boards,, to fix some convergence and geometry issues. With ur hours i think you should do the same. Hopefully some one will eventually post enough information on how to go about this. I presume my deflector needs re capping because some geometry settings on the menue dont adjust write. so some have aged.
