Questions that do not deserve a thread

[bobrocks95]

I don't know, Zelda?

I just figure it's not something I can add on to an AV so why not have it just to have it?

Some third-party pads that plug into the EXT port had mics built in.

[zakruowrath]

So kind of a modern gaming question. My FAT launch model 60GB PS3 yellow lighted a few months back and I really want to repair it being I loved having a PlayStation console that can play three generations of games especially PS2. I opened it up and saw it already has the more "efficient" APS-231 power supply and the 19 blade fan, there wasn't even hardly any dust inside it. It's always been out in the open and I've never played a game on it for more than 3 hours. So I'm thinking of getting it re-balled rather than reflowed. Then it got me to thinking would the solder used help it last longer? I want to use Arctic 5 Silver thermal paste, possibly add copper heatsink shims ask for the solder would Lead based or Gold based change the thermal breaking point? At this point I've even considering modifying the case for even more air flow. So what are my options?

[Ed Oscuro]

If you really want to help your PS3 survive, a custom case design with heftier heatsinks and good airflow around them seems like the best bet.

I've not got experience with the PS3, but I did note that using my 360 in the usual "flat" position ended up much hotter than when I placed it on top of a foam piece which left a lot of open space beneath it.

[Smashbro29]

I don't know, Zelda?

I just figure it's not something I can add on to an AV so why not have it just to have it?

Some third-party pads that plug into the EXT port had mics built in.

Oh, solid. So if I ever need the mic for the 3 games that use it I can nab that. I hear ya.

[beatsgo]

So kind of a modern gaming question. My FAT launch model 60GB PS3 yellow lighted a few months back and I really want to repair it being I loved having a PlayStation console that can play three generations of games especially PS2. I opened it up and saw it already has the more "efficient" APS-231 power supply and the 19 blade fan, there wasn't even hardly any dust inside it. It's always been out in the open and I've never played a game on it for more than 3 hours. So I'm thinking of getting it re-balled rather than reflowed. Then it got me to thinking would the solder used help it last longer? I want to use Arctic 5 Silver thermal paste, possibly add copper heatsink shims ask for the solder would Lead based or Gold based change the thermal breaking point? At this point I've even considering modifying the case for even more air flow. So what are my options?

In this case it's probably best to use lead solder because non-lead solder doesn't have the consistency of uniform crystallization. Reusing the solder is okay, but you're going to accelerate the oxidation process so it's good practice to replace solder for electronic parts that already be soldered on.

[werk91]

What will happen if I send a sync clean sync signal to a sync stripping device (Sync Strike)? I'm buying an RGB Scart cable for Mega Drive 2 and to get a clean composite sync output one is just £1 extra so I thought it will be useful when using it on CRT TV's etc. But I will be mainly using it with a Sync Strike for now so the question is will it work and will it look better or the same as composite video + sync ?

Link for cable

[P1kas]

I'm looking to use my existing capture card(GV-USB2, S-Video/Composite) to capture my (future)RGB setup. I'll be using marqs device, but since scanlines do not translate well to capturing/resizing/streaming/etc I'd like to capture before the linedoubling/scanlining process.

I've seen several adapters such as This.

These adapters don't seem to do any signal conversion. Is a signal conversion necessary from RGB to S-Video anyways? What do these adapters even do?
I think some SCART connections carry S-Video and Composite alongside RGB. Does this simply provide connections to those signals?

[Guspaz]

Yes, RGB and S-Video are completely different signals. Typically, they look like this:

RGBS
R: Red
G: Green
B: Blue
S: Sync

S-Video (Y/C)
Y: Luma (brightness) + Sync
C: Colour

The device that you've linked to is a passive adapter, it doesn't do any conversion. SCART does not mean RGB, SCART can carry many different types of signals, and the linked adapter merely routes from the appropriate pins to RCA/SVIDEO jacks. If your source device is not outputting S-VIDEO over the SCART cable, then the adapter will not work.

Be aware that S-Video is not as high quality as RGB, due to compressing all the colour information down to one signal. It looks enormously better than composite, but somewhat worse than RGB.

[P1kas]

Linked adapter merely routes from the appropriate pins to RCA/SVIDEO jacks.

Thanks for the speedy response. Those will likely be useless to be if that is the case.

This device seems to perform signal conversion. However, the input is through a VGA plug. Would it be safe to assume that this device requires RGBHV rather than RGBS, and thus not be adequate to use directly from my RGBS Scart signal? There seem to be other direct RGBS through Scart to S-Video converters that are significantly more expensive.

[Guspaz]

Yes, that would expect RGBHV, and it's also uncertain if it would accept 240p/480i input (many VGA devices don't support anything less than 480p).

[Delta81]

Kind of a nooby question, but can anyone explain to me why PAL and NTSC SCART can't be used interchangeably with consoles like the SNES, N64, Saturn etc? Apparently using them would break your TV. From what I've gathered it has something to do with PAL sending 12v DC whereas NTSC cables don't do this. Why is that? Is there a difference between PAL and NTSC signals? I'd guess not since the NTSC genesis and PAL mega drive use the same cable.

Thanks!

[Fudoh]

On the SNES Nintendo used a different RGB encoder configuration, so NTSC cables require caps in the RGB lines while PAL cables require resistors. In addition to that PAL units had the CSYNC output replaced by a power supply pin.

N64 completely depends on the type of RGB mod.

Saturn cables that use composite video or luma for sync are actually interchangeable. But like on the SNES PAL Saturn systems have a voltage supply on the very pin NTSC systems use for CSYNC.

[Delta81]

On the SNES Nintendo used a different RGB encoder configuration, so NTSC cables require caps in the RGB lines while PAL cables require resistors. In addition to that PAL units had the CSYNC output replaced by a power supply pin.

N64 completely depends on the type of RGB mod.

Saturn cables that use composite video or luma for sync are actually interchangeable. But like on the SNES PAL Saturn systems have a voltage supply on the very pin NTSC systems use for CSYNC.

Thanks. That helps a lot. Some more rookie questions though if you will humour me: Does that mean then that PAL systems, such as the SNES and the Saturn, you cannot get composite sync directly from the console? Also is it right to assume the warnings about destroying your TV with the 12v line are only valid if you use a TV with a SCART input? If you use a SCART to BNC breakout cable, what happens to that 12v line?

[Fudoh]

Does that mean then that PAL systems, such as the SNES and the Saturn, you cannot get composite sync directly from the console?

right, best thing you can use is luma.

Also is it right to assume the warnings about destroying your TV with the 12v line are only valid if you use a TV with a SCART input?

probably.

If you use a SCART to BNC breakout cable, what happens to that 12v line?

if you're using PAL cables, then the pin isn't connected. If you're using a NTSC cable on a PAL system, the voltage gets routed in your sync pin and with this into the monitor.

[Delta81]

Does that mean then that PAL systems, such as the SNES and the Saturn, you cannot get composite sync directly from the console?

right, best thing you can use is luma.

Also is it right to assume the warnings about destroying your TV with the 12v line are only valid if you use a TV with a SCART input?

probably.

If you use a SCART to BNC breakout cable, what happens to that 12v line?

if you're using PAL cables, then the pin isn't connected. If you're using a NTSC cable on a PAL system, the voltage gets routed in your sync pin and with this into the monitor.

Ahhhh now I get it! Makes a lot more sense. Thank you!

[AndehX]

Does anyone have the schematic for the PSP's (3000) AV out? I've checked google, but I could only find the schematic for component out. I have a composite cable lying around that I'd like to convert to an S-Video cable. (it'll save me spending £10 on one)

[bobrocks95]

Blu-rays are encoded in 8-bit YCbCr right? Does it matter if I have a PS3 set to full range RGB then? I'm guessing it automatically switches to a YCbCr output when playing a blu-ray, which is inherently 16-235 if I understand it correctly. Is that right?

[Fudoh]

Blu-rays are encoded in 8-bit YCbCr right?

yes.

Does it matter if I have a PS3 set to full range RGB then? I'm guessing it automatically switches to a YCbCr output when playing a blu-ray, which is inherently 16-235 if I understand it correctly. Is that right?

no, you can output movies in full range RGB as well. The conversion works well. Full range RGB is a compatibility requirement if you got an older TV or a DVI monitor.

[werk91]

I've been looking for a good scart switcher that doesn't dim the picture and introduce noise. I've read the topics here about that and the Scart Roundup by videogameperfection. From the listed switchers I can only get Hama AV 100S and The Madcatz Universal RGB Scart System Selector. I've seen two bad reviews for the Madcatz one on Amazon but other than it seems its a good option. I'm just after no noticeable loss of quality and no brightness drop.

I'm currently with this Belkin PureAV Scart Switch that looks very well made with nice thick cable and nevertheless if more than one port is used the problems arise. Any suggestions ?

[bobrocks95]

I've been looking for a good scart switcher that doesn't dim the picture and introduce noise. I've read the topics here about that and the Scart Roundup by videogameperfection. From the listed switchers I can only get Hama AV 100S and The Madcatz Universal RGB Scart System Selector. I've seen two bad reviews for the Madcatz one on Amazon but other than it seems its a good option. I'm just after no noticeable loss of quality and no brightness drop.

I'm currently with this Belkin PureAV Scart Switch that looks very well made with nice thick cable and nevertheless if more than one port is used the problems arise. Any suggestions ?

Might throw a PM BuckoA51's way if you don't get an answer soonish, he runs videogameperfection. I don't know your budget, but have you looked at the scart switch being made by a member here?

...

I have one more PS3 video output question that I think I understand but want a bit of clarification on (I'm awfully late to the PS3 party, I know).
Is YCbCr Super-white being on basically selecting a YCbCr equivalent of full-range RGB? As in values whiter than white will be displayed?

This wouldn't matter much to me, but Sony's site also mentions that the setting enables x.v.YCC. Does that mean x.v.YCC can only be transmitted through YCbCr? And does anything other than Sony's "Mastered at 4K" blu-rays even use x.v.YCC?

[werk91]

I've been looking for a good scart switcher that doesn't dim the picture and introduce noise. I've read the topics here about that and the Scart Roundup by videogameperfection. From the listed switchers I can only get Hama AV 100S and The Madcatz Universal RGB Scart System Selector. I've seen two bad reviews for the Madcatz one on Amazon but other than it seems its a good option. I'm just after no noticeable loss of quality and no brightness drop.

I'm currently with this Belkin PureAV Scart Switch that looks very well made with nice thick cable and nevertheless if more than one port is used the problems arise. Any suggestions ?

Might throw a PM BuckoA51's way if you don't get an answer soonish, he runs videogameperfection. I don't know your budget, but have you looked at the scart switch being made by a member here?

...

I will do that,thanks! Where do I find the topic/person who is building that scart switcher ?

[bobrocks95]

I will do that,thanks! Where do I find the topic/person who is building that scart switcher ?

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... h#p1034638

[Remistewart]

Hi all, just a quick query! I own a Sony BVM-D24E1WE and am getting confused by changes in the black level when I change resolutions.

I have a PS2/3 connected via the official component cables. For all the resolutions 240p, 288p, 480i, 576i and 576p, I get deep blacks. Once I change the setting to 720p or 1080i on my PS3, the blacks suddenly become grey. Can't turn the brightness down further during these HD resolutions as I get crushed blacks from doing so. Tried fiddling with lots of settings but not getting anywhere! Just curious if anyone has experience something like this?

Thanks!

Remi

[BazookaBen]

Hi all, just a quick query! I own a Sony BVM-D24E1WE and am getting confused by changes in the black level when I change resolutions.

I have a PS2/3 connected via the official component cables. For all the resolutions 240p, 288p, 480i, 576i and 576p, I get deep blacks. Once I change the setting to 720p or 1080i on my PS3, the blacks suddenly become grey. Can't turn the brightness down further during these HD resolutions as I get crushed blacks from doing so. Tried fiddling with lots of settings but not getting anywhere! Just curious if anyone has experience something like this?

Thanks!

Remi

Hmmm, that's a tough one. First I would try messing with the color settings on the PS3. Then I would poke around in the BVM menu to see if there are separate color profiles for HD resolutions.

[Remistewart]

I've noticed there is a full range RGB (HDMI) setting. Possibly because I'm feeding in a component, its defaulting to an unchangeable 16-235 IRE? Not found any HD color profile specific settings on the BVM unfortunately.

[werk91]

I will do that,thanks! Where do I find the topic/person who is building that scart switcher ?

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... h#p1034638

Thanks, that looks like the ideal long term solution but is out of my budget for now. I settled on the Madcatz one that has a 9/10 score on that scart switchers review article. Amazon UK has it in stock brand new right now, presumably someone found old stock.

On another note how do the cheap VGA to HDMI scalers perform picture quality and lag-wise? Is the audio good quality too? New living room TV won't have VGA in so I'm after someway of plugging my Gonbes in it provided that the TV internal scaler is bad( most likely).

[Fudoh]

On another note how do the cheap VGA to HDMI scalers perform picture quality and lag-wise?

zero lag and pretty much perfect quality, BUT they will always sample the input with 640x480p, while your source might actually be 720x480p (e.g. Dreamcast or the output from most line doublers). But then again the same is true for almost all VGA inputs on TV sets.

Is the audio good quality too?

nothing to complain about.

[werk91]

So if I set my Gonbes to 640x480 it'll be better? They should work fine with a DVI cable too for DVI-D I presume so that means it could be used for my 360 too on my other monitor. Then again the 360 VGA out is usually quite good.

[Fudoh]

So if I set my Gonbes to 640x480 it'll be better?

no, if you actually upscale (e.g. to 1080p) you can leave it there. What I meant was that on actual 480p sources you might lose a few columns of resolution.

[werk91]

So if I set my Gonbes to 640x480 it'll be better?

no, if you actually upscale (e.g. to 1080p) you can leave it there. What I meant was that on actual 480p sources you might lose a few columns of resolution.

Oh good point. Thanks a lot Fudoh.