XRGB-3

[Fudoh]

no, they're completely lag free. I've got two with me right now (164xi and 203) and they both work great.

[Sargon]

no, they're completely lag free. I've got two with me right now (164xi and 203) and they both work great.

Does the horizontal shift apply to the VGA monitor output as well, or is it only on the BNC outputs?

[BuckoA51]

With regard to the PS2 someone was asking about, I use PS2 component video into my XRGB and the picture seems pretty good, though I only use the B1 mode. On games like Disgaea or Dodonpachi, it's MUCH better than going directly into my TV. Everything else though looks horrible through the XRGB and better just going directly into the set (OLD Hitachi 32 inch plasma EDIT - I should add that this is probably a limitation of my TV rather than the PS2 or XRGB or anything to do with the PS2's component output). I've been using a component video routing switcher, for anything other than the 240p games I can run the signal directly into the TV (or I could feed it to another scaler like the EDGE if I had one). Very handy thing to have I think, search for AVT-5842.

I think the X-connect D4 is an even better solution since it cleans up the signal (?) but I can't find one anywhere.

I also use a monster component cable with the PS2 and good quality component cables, but just the standard D-SUB to Component converter you get with the XRGB. Maybe those monster cables were worth it after all (yeah right )

[Fudoh]

Does the horizontal shift apply to the VGA monitor output as well, or is it only on the BNC outputs?

it only applies to the buffered and processed output (=BNC).

[Sargon]

Does the horizontal shift apply to the VGA monitor output as well, or is it only on the BNC outputs?

it only applies to the buffered and processed output (=BNC).

So then I would still need to transcode the BNC output for my TV right? So I would need a BNC to VGA cable to feed my 9A60 transcoder? Or could I go straight from BNC to the component input of my TV?

[Fudoh]

The Extron's really just VGA to VGA. The signal stays the same, even if the the connection's going from DSub15 to BNC.

[Sargon]

The Extron's really just VGA to VGA. The signal stays the same, even if the the connection's going from DSub15 to BNC.

So in other words, yes I need the bnc-to-VGA cable to feed into my VGA to Component transcoder? Thanks for all your help!!!

[Fudoh]

yes, you do.

[trunk]

The answer lies in the xrgb-3. I used xrgb-2+ connected the DVDO Edge and it still shakes.

That would have been nice to have known a few weeks back when I was trying to decide which one to go with. But as things are, if the VGA to HDMI scaler still shakes I think I'll wait and see wither the Flame Meister will support scanlines or not, for then I would definitely want to go with that one instead.

I believe Fudoh did recommend the 3 over the 2+. I did bring out the xrgb-2+ again this weekend to see if the shakes were bad and if I could adjust it. To my surprise the shakes were much less than I remember. It seems that some days it shakes more than others. For example I check the title screen for super castlevania 4 and it is usually obvious that it shakes with the letters being outlined in white. When I tried this time it was almost unnoticable. So then I tried F-Zero which also has white outline on the title characters and it did shake a little bit(where the xrgb-3 is solid) but it was so little that it was not a nuisance.

Hopefully going through HDMI will reduce the shakes for you. Let us know how it turns out.

[kamiboy]

I believe Fudoh did recommend the 3 over the 2+.

Yes, but not for the reason that is currently causing me troubles. If memory serves right Fudoh recomended the 3 mostly due to the PSP upscaling, B0 mode and 480p capabilities. None of these applied to me since I just want this for putting scanlines into 240p content.

In fact I didn't find anything discussing this image shaking problem prior to getting my XRGB and hooking it up. I specifically asked wither there was any image quality/stability differences between the 2 and 3, and by all accounts the 2s seemed to be the ones with the least quirks. But I suppose that was only issues with input. Input is the main focus for Fudoh and others, which is understandable since output problems is specific to your panel, and if you have none, then you have none, whereas input problems are universal.

I did bring out the xrgb-2+ again this weekend to see if the shakes were bad and if I could adjust it. To my surprise the shakes were much less than I remember. It seems that some days it shakes more than others.

Yeah, I have the same impression, it seems to be a bit different each time which is a little weird. Over the weekend I discovered that my old Saturn actually came with two cartridges and it was the second one that was responsible for making it region free. After a few attempts I got it to work, (another 30 ducats wasted), and ended up playing a hell of a lot of Dracula X.

With people raising a stink about this port I was frankly expecting a lot worse, but all I see is a few more loading screens, all non interactive for some reason, as well as a general prevalence of slow downs. Other than that it is still one of the best games ever made.

The shaking is there, for sure, especially visible anywhere there is text. Other than that the image quality was good overall, but the sound stinks. I am not sure if the Saturn is at fault, any of the cables, or just the XRGB itself, but the very audible buzzing sure is annoying, and even more so when playing with headphones.

Anyway, after a little tweaking to get a good quality image with good colours and detail I ended up hauling out the CRT monitor and continue playing it that way for the rest of the day. Even without the shaking a large LCD cannot compare to a CRT monitor after all.

Hopefully going through HDMI will reduce the shakes for you. Let us know how it turns out.

I think the device might arrive sometime this week, I'll report back with my findings once it does. Alas since buying it I have slowly become pretty convinced that it won't do the trick and I am left with an semi expensive paper weight. It is a bother to be sure, since the monitor is heavy and I have to pull out a series of wires and connect a few new ones every time, but I feel I may end up going the CRT route forthwith, it just looks more pleasing to the eye, and no shaking.

Also, a discovery, while Dracula X seems to be running in 240p, as soon as you press start to enter the the item menu the screen seems to switch to running in 480i. I guess they did that because the higher res allowed for more and crisper text.

[trunk]

The shaking is there, for sure, especially visible anywhere there is text. Other than that the image quality was good overall, but the sound stinks. I am not sure if the Saturn is at fault, any of the cables, or just the XRGB itself, but the very audible buzzing sure is annoying, and even more so when playing with headphones.

I wonder about this too. My super famicom and ps1 do not buzz but my genesis does very hard. It also appears that when I use the genesis if I do the 220ohm termination on the game input the buzzing will stop but of course the screen goes dark. When I play genesis I change the black level to get a better image. But the buzzing is there. There probably was some discussion about this somewhere in this thread. I think it relates to how the xrgb handles sound. I'd thought of buying a F-F scart box and just taking the sound out of that and feed it straight into the tv/sound system bypassing the xrgb to see if it would make it better.

Anyway, after a little tweaking to get a good quality image with good colours and detail I ended up hauling out the CRT monitor and continue playing it that way for the rest of the day. Even without the shaking a large LCD cannot compare to a CRT monitor after all.

If you still can play on a CRT that's the best option. I only moved away from it due to wanting a dedicated rgb CRT to be used for tate and I don't have another large suitable unit.

Alas since buying it I have slowly become pretty convinced that it won't do the trick and I am left with an semi expensive paper weight.

Hopefully the box will stabilize the refresh rate a little. I feel the the dvdo edge did help to reduce the shakes on my screen.

Also, a discovery, while Dracula X seems to be running in 240p, as soon as you press start to enter the the item menu the screen seems to switch to running in 480i. I guess they did that because the higher res allowed for more and crisper text.

Yeah, there are a few games out there that have mixed mode. The ps1 boot screen is 480i and the games are usually 240p so you see the switchover. GT4 on PS2 did that alot, especially when going from menu to race screen to 1080i which was I believe closer to 960i (480x2) because my CRT had no problem with it but my DLP didn't like it at all and would take a long time to be able to get an image(should probably try it again now that the dvdo edge is in there, that will probably fix the issue)

[kamiboy]

I wonder about this too. My super famicom and ps1 do not buzz but my genesis does very hard. It also appears that when I use the genesis if I do the 220ohm termination on the game input the buzzing will stop but of course the screen goes dark. When I play genesis I change the black level to get a better image. But the buzzing is there. There probably was some discussion about this somewhere in this thread. I think it relates to how the xrgb handles sound. I'd thought of buying a F-F scart box and just taking the sound out of that and feed it straight into the tv/sound system bypassing the xrgb to see if it would make it better.

For Genesis I will happily not have any problems because the CDX has headphone outputs built into the side of the system and the sound quality from them is simply amazing. For the other systems I am not sure what to do. I could perhaps ask the guy I know in UK to make me another SCART to XRGB converter this time with separate stereo out, but hat wont help the SNES which bypasses the converter by using official RGB21 cables.

If you still can play on a CRT that's the best option. I only moved away from it due to wanting a dedicated rgb CRT to be used for tate and I don't have another large suitable unit.

I can play on a 22" CRT monitor sure, but it is a very inelegant solution. Carrying it back and forth and unplugging cables, routing the audio to my AVR directly instead of through my TV, with cables that are too short so the XRGB is pulled off of its place and suspended almost in mid air by force of cables alone. Then playing with the silouette of my gargantuan LCD hovering in the background making me wonder why I go through all of this trouble to play on this tiny dim screen when my full entertainment system is always there working.

I think if the Flame Meister turns out to be scan line capable then that device might turn the tide in favour of elegance, solving all my outstanding problems, including the shaking and buzzing.

[kamiboy]

I continued playing Dracula X for most of yesterday on the monitor. The only thing that soured my enjoyment was the buzzing of the audio. It is just as annoying as any visual quirk, in fact more so because it is always there and half the genius of Dracula X is the music.

I need to run some tests to see if this is related to any specific cable or input. If not then this is certainly is something I cannot tolerate going forward, I need to find a fix of some sort.

I tried turning on termination in the option. But that never does anything, to picture or sound.

[IDA]

I continued playing Dracula X for most of yesterday on the monitor. The only thing that soured my enjoyment was the buzzing of the audio. It is just as annoying as any visual quirk, in fact more so because it is always there and half the genius of Dracula X is the music.

I need to run some tests to see if this is related to any specific cable or input. If not then this is certainly is something I cannot tolerate going forward, I need to find a fix of some sort.

I tried turning on termination in the option. But that never does anything, to picture or sound.

I don't know what video connection are you using, but the buzzing can be caused by disconnected audio grounds in a SCART cable, thought my european SCART cable did connect all the grounds to the chassis. Check with a multimeter to see if these are connected.

[trunk]

I did a quick search in hardware about this and landed on this thread. This is probably what's going on and explains my situation that the buzzing gets louder with brighter screen. Looks like it's time to open some cables again.

quoted from here

Cables which run video and audio signals together without a seperating shield around the audio wires may cause an annoying 50 or 60hz buzzing sound in the audio which vaires in volume with the picture content. This is caused by the capacitive coupling of the two wires running next to each other. The longer the cable is the more capacitance between the wire. The best way to avoid this is to run a seperate cables for audio and video join them together again at the SCART end.

I don't know what video connection are you using, but the buzzing can be caused by disconnected audio grounds in a SCART cable, thought my european SCART cable did connect all the grounds to the chassis. Check with a multimeter to see if these are connected.

I'll be doing this as well.

[kamiboy]

I don't know what video connection are you using, but the buzzing can be caused by disconnected audio grounds in a SCART cable, thought my european SCART cable did connect all the grounds to the chassis. Check with a multimeter to see if these are connected.

Saturn -> RGB Euro SCAR -> SCART to RGB21 converter - > XRGB-2+

I don't have a multimeter or any such device, but I'll break out my PSP or PS3 via D-terminal cables once I get home today to see if the buzzing persists, that should settle things. I am thinking the buzzing is too loud to be inherent to the XRGB, as then it is a pretty poorly built device and I imagine more people would have complained about it making it a known issue.

When I first got the XRGB I used two faulty cables with it, one a clearly shorted SCART for my CDX, and another a cheap, and very crudely made SNES one I got off of the net which didn't work. Perhaps one of these shorted something out in the XRGB, as, as I said, the termination options in the menu produce to visible results. I think they should at least dim the image once turned on, but right now nothing happens.

Either that or the Saturn RGB or the Euro to RGB21 SCART has a short or is busted. As soon as I get my Famicom RGB21 cables I can rule out the converter at least. I also have some S-video cables for the Saturn. In short I have a lot of tests I can run. If everything has a buzz then the XRGB is just poorly built and I have to suffer through until I can get an upgraded model or something.

[Konsolkongen]

I need a new Panasonic AN15865AA chip for my XRGB-3. I'm pretty sure it will fix my problem

A friend of mine found them here:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... ds=AN15865

But which one will i need? The AN15865AAVT or the AN15865AAVT-ND? What is the difference?

As far as i can understand the picture on their site is from the AN15865AAVT and it does look very similar to the one in the XRGB-3:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e236/ ... 1286998099

RGB32E, do you know anything about this stuff?

[kamiboy]

Re:

I don't know what video connection are you using, but the buzzing can be caused by disconnected audio grounds in a SCART cable, thought my european SCART cable did connect all the grounds to the chassis. Check with a multimeter to see if these are connected.

Okay done doing some basic testing. The majour finding here was that I get no buzzing at all form my Saturn via S-video cables. So it is related to either the RGB input or the RGB cables I have.

The converter is once again off the hook as I happened to get my Genesis RGB replacement cables in the mail. These are wired for the XRGB and while the picture quality is pretty good, the buzzing is there even on the CDX.

So I get buzz from my Saturn using Euro SCART via a SCART to RGB21 adapter and I get buzzing from CDX using a RGB21 SCART directly.

I would blame the XRGB at this point bit there is the matter of both these SCART cables are custom creations by the same guy. Could be the way that he did them is causing this, perhaps it is merely a matter of poor shielding inside the cables themselves.

I will know for sure once my official SNES RGB21 cables arrive.

[IDA]

So I get buzz from my Saturn using Euro SCART via a SCART to RGB21 adapter and I get buzzing from CDX using a RGB21 SCART directly.

I would blame the XRGB at this point bit there is the matter of both these SCART cables are custom creations by the same guy. Could be the way that he did them is causing this, perhaps it is merely a matter of poor shielding inside the cables themselves.

As you say ,there are two possibilities:

- The cables are not correctly grounded, leaving one or both audio grounds disconnected. In my experience, the lack of shielding in SCART cables is not so critical, specially if the cable is of a reasonable lenght (<1.5m). Your S-Video cable is probably not shielded at all, multiplexes video signals, and still has good quality.

- You have blown the rgb21 input. That possibility seems remote to me, as you are receiving all audio and video signals.

In any case, both can be solved with basic soldering, which with care and some time should not be a problem for anyone (we are not talking SMD soldering here). In the first case, you should use a multimeter or ohmnimeter and measure if there is contact between the grounds of the SCART connector. If not, you can connect them (solder a wire between them) in any side of the cable.

In the second case, you can use the rear D2 IN connector (it looks like an VGA connector) using a similar cable to the SCART-RGB21 adapter, but in this case an SCART - D-Sub15 adapter. You should configure this input as RGBC (RGBVH is for 31Khz VGA signals with separate horizontal/vertical sync).

I know it may sound intimidating, but with this kind of thing it comes a moment when it is much easier to do it yourself.

[viletim]

kamiboy,

The buzzing is caused by the cable, not the XRGB. Crappy cables (the vast majority of third party cables) have only a single thin wire as ground for four video signals and two audio signals. The impedance of a video signal is much lower so the video will interfere with the audio, and not the other way around. There is also some capacitive coupling but it is mostly caused by the poor ground.

You can solve the problem by modifying the cable with a thicker ground wire or find another way to connect the ground of the XRGB and console via a low resistance path.

If you have people build RGB cables for you, insist that they use shielded cable (as the shield is a thick, low resistance copper wire) or that they use at least three or four wires standard wires for ground, connected together at both ends.

[kamiboy]

As you say ,there are two possibilities:

- The cables are not correctly grounded, leaving one or both audio grounds disconnected. In my experience, the lack of shielding in SCART cables is not so critical, specially if the cable is of a reasonable lenght (<1.5m). Your S-Video cable is probably not shielded at all, multiplexes video signals, and still has good quality.

- You have blown the rgb21 input. That possibility seems remote to me, as you are receiving all audio and video signals.

In any case, both can be solved with basic soldering, which with care and some time should not be a problem for anyone (we are not talking SMD soldering here). In the first case, you should use a multimeter or ohmnimeter and measure if there is contact between the grounds of the SCART connector. If not, you can connect them (solder a wire between them) in any side of the cable.

In the second case, you can use the rear D2 IN connector (it looks like an VGA connector) using a similar cable to the SCART-RGB21 adapter, but in this case an SCART - D-Sub15 adapter. You should configure this input as RGBC (RGBVH is for 31Khz VGA signals with separate horizontal/vertical sync).

I know it may sound intimidating, but with this kind of thing it comes a moment when it is much easier to do it yourself.

kamiboy,

The buzzing is caused by the cable, not the XRGB. Crappy cables (the vast majority of third party cables) have only a single thin wire as ground for four video signals and two audio signals. The impedance of a video signal is much lower so the video will interfere with the audio, and not the other way around. There is also some capacitive coupling but it is mostly caused by the poor ground.

You can solve the problem by modifying the cable with a thicker ground wire or find another way to connect the ground of the XRGB and console via a low resistance path.

If you have people build RGB cables for you, insist that they use shielded cable (as the shield is a thick, low resistance copper wire) or that they use at least three or four wires standard wires for ground, connected together at both ends.

You know what. All day yesterday I played Dracula X using the crappy cheap generic S-Video cables sporting no shielding or even ferris cores which I got off of ebay for a few ducats. After adjusting colours to my liking on the S-Video input of the XRGB to my eyes there is absolutely no difference in image quality when compared to what I got from the RGB cables that I spent so much money and effort hunting down. On my CRT monitor the image is rock solid and the colours are lively and well saturated. And as a bonus the sound is crystal clear without any annoying buzzing.

What I think I'll be doing in this case is to quit while I am ahead and get hold of some S-video cables for my Nintendo systems as well. I was going to bust open that new N64 that I just bought and do an RGB mod. Even bought all the tools necessary, but now I think a pair of good S-video cables will circumvent all that hullabaloo. If those official Famicom Cables buzz as well then the same S-video cables can be used for the SNES, and the Gamecube even. Sure the CDX does not have S-video out, but then again it has direct audio out built into the system, so no problem with buzzing there either, huzzah!

The prospect of getting RGB, supposedly the best signal path, out of old consoles is what got me started on this whole route to begin with. What a strange turn of events that ditching RGB entirely in favour of the slightly, if at all, inferior S-video will solves all of my problems.

[IDA]

The prospect of getting RGB, supposedly the best signal path, out of old consoles is what got me started on this whole route to begin with. What a strange turn of events that ditching RGB entirely in favour of the slightly, if at all, inferior S-video will solves all of my problems.

If you are happy with S-Video, fine. But it has less saturated color compared with component or RGB, and produces some ringing. You can fiddle with your TV to improve the saturation, but RGB always produces a better, more contrasted image.

[kamiboy]

If you are happy with S-Video, fine. But it has less saturated color compared with component or RGB, and produces some ringing. You can fiddle with your TV to improve the saturation, but RGB always produces a better, more contrasted image.

Right now I am running games on a 22" CRT monitor which is not exactly placed right in front of my nose. The effective display area is prolly more in the range of 20". So either visual artifacts such as ringing are not showing up on that size or the Saturn is putting out a very good quality signal. Also going all analogue helps I think. But then even on my 52" LCD SNES looked stellar and artifact free through S-video.

As for colour, well, I doubt the difference is anything I'd be able to pinpoint outside of a side by side, which is not a test I can do. Overall I am happy with S-video if for nothing else then because it works, and SCART so far hasn't fully.

Looking at pinout diagrams for SCART cables and console outputs I seem to see a lot of different signals being carried alongside one another. Aside for R,G and B there is composite sync, L, R Audio as well as 5V lines and what have you. I think as pointed out that is simply too many stuff lumped aside one another for things to work out smoothly without some serious shielding.

I used to live in Europe and dealt with SCART cables some back in the day, I remember well this buzzing and how annoyed I was of analogue signals back then. Though I never thought it was something inherent to SCART, I thought it was normal for analogue, now thought I think this might be an inherent flaw of most if not all SCART cables. I'll know for certain once the famicom ones arrive, but I suspect it would be best to wash my hands of this whole SCART debacle and go about getting my hand on a collection of quality first party S-video cables.

I am already on the track of some official Saturn S-video cables, and am looking at getting some Monster S-video ones for the Nintendo systems as I cant seem to find any official Nintendo S-video ones for sale anywhere.

Whatever visual tradeoff is worth it for the improvements in audio in my case.

[Endymion]

I'm uncomfortable speaking for someone but I think what they're trying to get across to you is that it is actually very easy to solve your problem, and it is solvable by you. One reason I say this despite not wanting to put words in anyone's mouth is because whether they mean that or not, it's absolutely true. You could get this licked by yourself in no time with no technical skills.

[Fudoh]

@kamiboy: to stress this once again - if you get audio buzzing when using scart cables, your cables are to blame, not Scart connections in general. To switch back to S-Video because of this is a ridiculous choice. If you're fine with this ok, but take everyone else's suggestion and just fix your cables. Much easier, cheaper and with much better results.

Even if you're not skilled with a soldering iron, for the money you're willing to spend on S-Video cables, just send your RGB cables to someone with the proper skills and have them fixed.

[kamiboy]

@kamiboy: to stress this once again - if you get audio buzzing when using scart cables, your cables are to blame, not Scart connections in general. To switch back to S-Video because of this is a ridiculous choice. If you're fine with this ok, but take everyone else's suggestion and just fix your cables. Much easier, cheaper and with much better results.

Even if you're not skilled with a soldering iron, for the money you're willing to spend on S-Video cables, just send your RGB cables to someone with the proper skills and have them fixed.

Everything will clear up once I get the official Nintendo RGB21 cables, if they buzz too then the problem is with SCART in general or there is something wrong with my XRGB's SCART input.

If not I just got real unlucky with a pair of bad cables. Then I'll just bite down and track down one of those ultra rare Saturn RGB21 cables. The CDX doesn't matter, I'll just get the sound out of the headphone port, sounds better that way regardless.

Also I made a mistake before in what I reported, the SCART cable I am using for my Saturn and the one I am using for the CDX are not made by the same guy, sorry about the confusion. The CDX cable, which is wired for XRGB, and the Euro SCART to XRGB adapter are the two cables made by the same person. The Saturn SCART I got off of someone else on ebay.

So, honestly, I find it a little hard to believe that two unrelated cables exhibit the same problem.

For now I guess once I get home I can pull off the head of the Saturn SCART and have look inside. What exactly can I diagnose just with the naked eye? I don't have a multimeter, and cannot get one. Also, my soldering iron is still in the mail I guess.

[IDA]

For now I guess once I get home I can pull off the head of the Saturn SCART and have look inside. What exactly can I diagnose just with the naked eye? I don't have a multimeter, and cannot get one. Also, my soldering iron is still in the mail I guess.

A digital multimeter is incredibly easy to find, and can be bought for less than 5$. You need one with ohmnimeter, to measure the resistance between the pins.

An example found on a <1min search: http://cgi.ebay.es/POCKET-SIZE-DIGITAL- ... 2c4fe8da02

[kamiboy]

A digital multimeter is incredibly easy to find, and can be bought for less than 5$. You need one with ohmnimeter, to measure the resistance between the pins.

An example found on a <1min search: http://cgi.ebay.es/POCKET-SIZE-DIGITAL- ... 2c4fe8da02

Yes, well, eBay is alway an option, if you don't mind waiting two weeks for your item to arrive, because that is how long it takes me to get anything I buy from there. But before we go that far let me try and understand the scenarios a little better, then at least I can diagnose similar problems better in the future.

So we have capacitive coupling, which is caused by bad cable shielding. If that is the case I am not going to do anything, just throw out the cables and buy some first party ones.

Then there is disconnected grounds. Now, this one I cannot figure out, I don't know much about electronics, I don't even know what the use of grounds are. Perhaps you could walk me through what the purpose of these grounds are in the scart and how they can cause buzzing, and if they indeed are to blame, how I would go about fixing them.




Looking at SCART digagrams I seem to see a supposed line going from the metal socket head connecting together several of the pins. I figure this is what is meant by ground connections to the chassis. I doubt all these connections are supposed to be made manually, as in via a wire, because I have never seen such a thing inside any SCART head, so I assume there is some sort of internal connection between these.

I've notticed that the ends of some unused pins are filled with some sort of solder like filling, where as some are left hollow. Are these fillings what causes the ground connection to happen?

Bear in mind I am a complete greenhorn when it comes to electronics and the inner workings of SCART cables, so assume I know nothing.

Lets use this site for reference: http://www.diyha.co.uk/electronics/scart.html

Of course this will only help in case of the Euro SCART cable I have, not the XRGB adapter or the XRGB wired SCART. There are few good sources of the pinouts of the Japanese SCART configuration.

But for starters talk me through a scenario where grounds are at fault. Let us pretend I bought a multimeter and two weeks have passed and I have it. What would I do to measure if anything is wrong? The connection between two pins in the had? Perhaps, say, pin 4 (Audio GND) and pin 1 (Audio R)?

Or would it be between a pin in the din connector and one in the head? Say I do the measurement and something is off, what would I then have to do to fix it? I would appreciate any one walking me through this.

[brentsg]

All of the third party SCART cables, and JPN21 cables I've ever seen were junk so it wouldn't surprise me at all if both of yours were bad.

And though I didn't use that unit much, I most certainly never had it buzz. I used them exclusively with headphones and have sensitive hearing. I used to be able to hear my old iPod's hard drive acces noises via headphone a few years back. Any buzz would have driven me nuts.

[kamiboy]

All of the third party SCART cables, and JPN21 cables I've ever seen were junk so it wouldn't surprise me at all if both of yours were bad.

Well, that would be the best case scenario, as then I'd just have to cut into myself deeper to produce the means for some replacement of first party quality. I really do hate buying things online, all one does is have one's hopes dashed for one more day every time that postbox is opened up. Fridays are the worst, because you know once you open up that box and its empty that you are in a long weekend of avail less waiting. The very earliest I can expect those first party SNES cables is today, but more likely it will be at least one more week.

I think the lesson here is to always go for first party when it comes to videogame accessories regardless of cost, especially cables, or you'll regret it and end up spending twice as much in the end.