ChuChu Flamingo wrote:
The SCART output of the toro is CSYNC right? Is it already 75 ohms and I simply need a passthrough cable or will the scart cable in question need to have the proper resistor in it + capacitors?. I ask cause I might pick this up with it but might just pick up one from RCA.
superg wrote:
Each day I ship only one thing, either lites or gcompsw's - it's much easier for me this way. Yesterday it was gcompsw's. Today lites. If you say that you ordered two devices roughly at the same time it might get shipped today. PM me the email you used to make the order and I will check.
Just out of pure curiosity, how many (roughly) do you typically ship in a day?
Maverick wrote:
Don't post your email publicly, spam bots will grab it and you'll start to be inundated with unwanted emails.
Thanks for letting me know man. I've edited my post now using "at" and "dot com". Hopefully that will keep the bots at bay.
Maverick wrote:
I found some new old stock of Monster cables some years back for a couple bucks. Completely overpriced back in the day, but Monster really did know how to build and shield their cables. Look on Amazon, I've seen some sellers list new old stock over the years for around $5-10 with free shipping if you're a Prime member.
I ended up going with some Amazon Basics component cables. They were rated extremely high on Amazon, looked nice, and were only $8 for 6 feet. Plus they included the audio cables as well. If they don't work out, I'll try looking for Monster again. The cheapest I found was around $15-$20, and in most cases that was video only. I appreciate the input though man.
Everybody: Please be patient, the switches are here and I am shipping. It's not a pre-order and you don't have to enquiry about your order. I never had a situation where I forgot to ship the order, everything will get shipped. The best you can do is to subscribe to this topic, I always post the progress. The more shipping questions I get - the less time I have to ship.
superg wrote:Everybody: Please be patient, the switches are here and I am shipping. It's not a pre-order and you don't have to enquiry about your order. I never had a situation where I forgot to ship the order, everything will get shipped. The best you can do is to subscribe to this topic, I always post the progress. The more shipping questions I get - the less time I have to ship.
I tried to find related information in this thread, however with so many pages there is a chance I missed something so apologizes in advance if this has already been answered.
I got a gscartsw 3.4 back in Jun 2016. I have many different consoles hooked up to my BVM and overall very happy. There is only one system I'm still having issues with as it outputs a different RGBs signal then typical. A Super8Bit NES clone console that outputs RGB with a Genesis model 2 plug. The system expects there to NOT have 220uF capacitors and 75 ohm resistors in series with the red, green, and blue wires. Connected directly to the BVM everything is perfect. However with the gscartsw in the loop, while it will still work, the color can become very dull or muted with certain games in certain scenes.
Guessing the gscartsw having caps/resistors take the signal out of acceptable range and become very obvious when games have a lot of certain colors on the screen at the same time.
Can I modify the output on the system so that the gscartsw can accept this type of signal without negativity effecting all of the other systems that are working fine? Does this type of "direct" non-caped signal have a proper name?
mj23kb08 wrote:Thanks for letting me know man. I've edited my post now using "at" and "dot com". Hopefully that will keep the bots at bay.
I ended up going with some Amazon Basics component cables. They were rated extremely high on Amazon, looked nice, and were only $8 for 6 feet. Plus they included the audio cables as well. If they don't work out, I'll try looking for Monster again. The cheapest I found was around $15-$20, and in most cases that was video only. I appreciate the input though man.
No problem, I know no one wants to be spammed non-stop with emails.
I got some of the Amazon component cables for hooking up my OG Xbox a few months back with my non-SuperG switch. I have no complaints. Amazon has a great return policy too if your not satisfied.
I’m looking for an elegant way to mount my gscartsw and my gcompsw vertically on a plywood panel. Has anyone found a good way to mount these devices vertically? TIA
ChrisTheMeat wrote:I’m looking for an elegant way to mount my gscartsw and my gcompsw vertically on a plywood panel. Has anyone found a good way to mount these devices vertically? TIA
-Chris
I've seen somebody posted a photo of it mounted on a wall. Initially I wanted to cut some holes in a bottom panel just for this but changed my mind because screws could easily short some components.
ChrisTheMeat wrote:I’m looking for an elegant way to mount my gscartsw and my gcompsw vertically on a plywood panel. Has anyone found a good way to mount these devices vertically? TIA
-Chris
I've seen somebody posted a photo of it mounted on a wall. Initially I wanted to cut some holes in a bottom panel just for this but changed my mind because screws could easily short some components.
I'm sure a wider bottom plate could accommodate screw holes. And, if you don't want to screw up the default footprint of the switches, offer a replacement plate as an option and let the user swap it.
ChrisTheMeat wrote:I’m looking for an elegant way to mount my gscartsw and my gcompsw vertically on a plywood panel. Has anyone found a good way to mount these devices vertically? TIA
-Chris
I've seen somebody posted a photo of it mounted on a wall. Initially I wanted to cut some holes in a bottom panel just for this but changed my mind because screws could easily short some components.
I'm sure a wider bottom plate could accommodate screw holes. And, if you don't want to screw up the default footprint of the switches, offer a replacement plate as an option and let the user swap it.
I can publish case drawings but so far nobody was interested. Although I don't plan to offer any custom things like this because I don't have time.
superg wrote:
I've seen somebody posted a photo of it mounted on a wall. Initially I wanted to cut some holes in a bottom panel just for this but changed my mind because screws could easily short some components.
I'm sure a wider bottom plate could accommodate screw holes. And, if you don't want to screw up the default footprint of the switches, offer a replacement plate as an option and let the user swap it.
I can publish case drawings but so far nobody was interested. Although I don't plan to offer any custom things like this because I don't have time.
I think that I am going to try to use some mirror hanging hardware and offset the depth a bit to make up for the thickness of the rubber feet. I will post how the results turn out.
ChrisTheMeat wrote:
I think that I am going to try to use some mirror hanging hardware and offset the depth a bit to make up for the thickness of the rubber feet. I will post how the results turn out.
I was going to suggest pcb feet turned in so the feet are hidden but some chrome mirror hooks would look so nice, and much easier to mount and dismount, its a top idea.
Keen to see the end result
ChrisTheMeat wrote:
I think that I am going to try to use some mirror hanging hardware and offset the depth a bit to make up for the thickness of the rubber feet. I will post how the results turn out.
I was going to suggest pcb feet turned in so the feet are hidden but some chrome mirror hooks would look so nice, and much easier to mount and dismount, its a top idea.
Keen to see the end result
I think that I am going to use plastic clips rather than chrome. I am a little worried about metal brackets damaging the acrylic case.
Just received my gscartsw and I love it! Something that’s surprising is that my SNES now works with my receiver. With my manual Bandridge it would stutter, but now it works great. I know the gscartsw has a sync stripper, but does it also have a signal conditioner too?
Landstander wrote:Just received my gscartsw and I love it! Something that’s surprising is that my SNES now works with my receiver. With my manual Bandridge it would stutter, but now it works great. I know the gscartsw has a sync stripper, but does it also have a signal conditioner too?
It regenerates the sync if toggle switch in CS position (the default), it might be helping.
butters wrote:I tried to find related information in this thread, however with so many pages there is a chance I missed something so apologizes in advance if this has already been answered.
I got a gscartsw 3.4 back in Jun 2016. I have many different consoles hooked up to my BVM and overall very happy. There is only one system I'm still having issues with as it outputs a different RGBs signal then typical. A Super8Bit NES clone console that outputs RGB with a Genesis model 2 plug. The system expects there to NOT have 220uF capacitors and 75 ohm resistors in series with the red, green, and blue wires. Connected directly to the BVM everything is perfect. However with the gscartsw in the loop, while it will still work, the color can become very dull or muted with certain games in certain scenes.
Guessing the gscartsw having caps/resistors take the signal out of acceptable range and become very obvious when games have a lot of certain colors on the screen at the same time.
Can I modify the output on the system so that the gscartsw can accept this type of signal without negativity effecting all of the other systems that are working fine? Does this type of "direct" non-caped signal have a proper name?
A lot of things can happen. If there is a capacitor on a signal line it's called AC coupled, if there is no capacitor it's DC coupled. Are you sure you don't have capacitors inside the console? To get to the bottom of it everything have to be measured with oscilloscope and console video output circuit has to be examined. It's a lot of effort, is there anything special with that console that you're using it? I mean usually people get NES and mod it with viletim nesrgb board. Clones often have issues.
butters wrote:I tried to find related information in this thread, however with so many pages there is a chance I missed something so apologizes in advance if this has already been answered.
I got a gscartsw 3.4 back in Jun 2016. I have many different consoles hooked up to my BVM and overall very happy. There is only one system I'm still having issues with as it outputs a different RGBs signal then typical. A Super8Bit NES clone console that outputs RGB with a Genesis model 2 plug. The system expects there to NOT have 220uF capacitors and 75 ohm resistors in series with the red, green, and blue wires. Connected directly to the BVM everything is perfect. However with the gscartsw in the loop, while it will still work, the color can become very dull or muted with certain games in certain scenes.
Guessing the gscartsw having caps/resistors take the signal out of acceptable range and become very obvious when games have a lot of certain colors on the screen at the same time.
Can I modify the output on the system so that the gscartsw can accept this type of signal without negativity effecting all of the other systems that are working fine? Does this type of "direct" non-caped signal have a proper name?
A lot of things can happen. If there is a capacitor on a signal line it's called AC coupled, if there is no capacitor it's DC coupled. Are you sure you don't have capacitors inside the console? To get to the bottom of it everything have to be measured with oscilloscope and console video output circuit has to be examined. It's a lot of effort, is there anything special with that console that you're using it? I mean usually people get NES and mod it with viletim nesrgb board. Clones often have issues.
Helpful information, thanks. The signal type is confirmed via testing myself and I did finally hear back from the designer.
This NES console has worked perfect and had RGB output while still using original PPU/CPU with brand new board/caps/etc. Outside of not functioning with the gscartsw its been great.
Again thanks for the reply and information, I'll have to find another way to get everything connected and working properly.
Hi there, I am also interested in a gscartsw lite. I noticed your 1/3 update says you will have some available in the next 2-3 weeks, but your comment above says that you are shooting for February. What is the best way to be notified when you have the next batch available? Or is it possible to place the order now? Apologies if this has been answered, I don't have time to crawl through the whole thread. Thank you!!!
