NESRGB board available now

[mrkotfw]

Both J3 & J5 need to be jumped

Last iteration, I actually jumped both and proceeded to remove the regulator... Let me add it back in.

I have a sync stripper that takes in a SCART cable. The SCART cable is from the author of NESRGB.

[mrkotfw]

Just tried J3 and J5 shorted WITH the voltage regulator and it doesn't work.

Here are the images: Image 1 Image 2

Edit:

I just tried composite output with the NESRGB enabled and I get: http://i.imgur.com/xzwq0FT.jpg

[lettuce]

Just ordered a replacement NES PPU, I'll see if it makes a difference when it arrives (fingers crossed).

Where did you source your replacement PPU chip from, as i need one for a suspect NES Console i bought?

[leonk]

Just tried J3 and J5 shorted WITH the voltage regulator and it doesn't work.

Here are the images: Image 1 Image 2

Edit:

I just tried composite output with the NESRGB enabled and I get: http://i.imgur.com/xzwq0FT.jpg

What you have there is the old composite bypassed. When debugging an install always go to the simplest setup and work up from there. I would get a simple composite (RCA) plug and wire V and GND to it. Plug directly to yellow plug on TV, and set nesrgb to natural. If you got regular picture start adding components. If you got picture issues then nesrgb not installed correctly.

As with debugging anything in life, you want to minimize the number of variables.

[sazyario]

What kind of sync stripping device are you using?
Are you feeding it ppuv or v? Do not feed it cs#.

I use ppuv as the sync signal on the multiout and on Tim's minidin.

[mufunyo]

What kind of sync stripping device are you using?
Are you feeding it ppuv or v? Do not feed it cs#.

Why not? The LM1881 accepts a wide range of input sync levels including TTL level, and I know for a fact that daisy chaining LM1881s, although a pointless exercise; has no ill effects on either the sync output or the chips themselves.

[sazyario]

What kind of sync stripping device are you using?
Are you feeding it ppuv or v? Do not feed it cs#.

Why not? The LM1881 accepts a wide range of input sync levels including TTL level, and I know for a fact that daisy chaining LM1881s, although a pointless exercise; has no ill effects on either the sync output or the chips themselves.

Why are you questioning me? Do you own an SLG-In-A-Box or a GBS-8220?
I do. I know what it looks for.

It doesn't like the composite encoded from Tim's RGB. It doesn't like CS#.
It only works with stripped PPUV.

[mufunyo]

Why are you questioning me? Do you own an SLG-In-A-Box or a GBS-8220?
I do. I know what it looks for.

You are talking about sync strippers. They will accept almost anything, including CS#. Whatever you then hook up to the output of the sync stripper doesn't matter. If you have a different experience, I would be interested to know about it. No need to get hostile.

[ApolloBoy]

I think it's been established in this thread that sync strippers don't like the NESRGB's composite sync signal though?

[sazyario]

Why are you questioning me? Do you own an SLG-In-A-Box or a GBS-8220?
I do. I know what it looks for.

You are talking about sync strippers. They will accept almost anything, including CS#. Whatever you then hook up to the output of the sync stripper doesn't matter. If you have a different experience, I would be interested to know about it. No need to get hostile.

My current setup is an SLG in a box which is a GBS-8220 +Sync Strike + SLG3000.
The sync strike uses the common lm1881. I have fed PPUV, CS# and V into this. (Thank god I uses pin headers on my installs).

The GBS-8220 doesn't output any video unless it's fed PPUV.

CS# if I recall correctly, on the NESRGB board is the V output put through an lm1881.
Apoloboy just mentioned it has been determined earlier in the thread that CS# doesn't play nice with being stripped.

Further reenforcing my recommendation of using PPUV.

I also recall at least once in an XRGB Mini thread that PPUV created the best and most reliable results on a mixture of older and newer firmwares.

I apologize for coming off as hostile. I just don't arguing about real world results.

[Pasky]

Why are you questioning me? Do you own an SLG-In-A-Box or a GBS-8220?
I do. I know what it looks for.

You are talking about sync strippers. They will accept almost anything, including CS#. Whatever you then hook up to the output of the sync stripper doesn't matter. If you have a different experience, I would be interested to know about it. No need to get hostile.

My current setup is an SLG in a box which is a GBS-8220 +Sync Strike + SLG3000.
The sync strike uses the common lm1881. I have fed PPUV, CS# and V into this. (Thank god I uses pin headers on my installs).

The GBS-8220 doesn't output any video unless it's fed PPUV.

CS# if I recall correctly, on the NESRGB board is the V output put through an lm1881.
Apoloboy just mentioned it has been determined earlier in the thread that CS# doesn't play nice with being stripped.

Further reenforcing my recommendation of using PPUV.

I also recall at least once in an XRGB Mini thread that PPUV created the best and most reliable results on a mixture of older and newer firmwares.

I apologize for coming off as hostile. I just don't arguing about real world results.

Put a voltage divider on the output of the LM1881, and adjust it until you get a picture. Had a similar issue with the LM1881 & a Sony CXA2075M. The Lm1881 from a MVS-1C board's sync line amped the sync signal too high for the CXA2075M. Putting a voltage divider between it and the CXA2075M and lowering the Sync signal fixed it.

I never bothered to scope the input/output of the LM1881, I guess I should when I have time. I know the Sony CXA2075's are very picky about the sync signal, your SG3000 or whatever might be as well.

[sazyario]

You are talking about sync strippers. They will accept almost anything, including CS#. Whatever you then hook up to the output of the sync stripper doesn't matter. If you have a different experience, I would be interested to know about it. No need to get hostile.

My current setup is an SLG in a box which is a GBS-8220 +Sync Strike + SLG3000.
The sync strike uses the common lm1881. I have fed PPUV, CS# and V into this. (Thank god I uses pin headers on my installs).

The GBS-8220 doesn't output any video unless it's fed PPUV.

CS# if I recall correctly, on the NESRGB board is the V output put through an lm1881.
Apoloboy just mentioned it has been determined earlier in the thread that CS# doesn't play nice with being stripped.

Further reenforcing my recommendation of using PPUV.

I also recall at least once in an XRGB Mini thread that PPUV created the best and most reliable results on a mixture of older and newer firmwares.

I apologize for coming off as hostile. I just don't arguing about real world results.

Put a voltage divider on the output of the LM1881, and adjust it until you get a picture. Had a similar issue with the LM1881 & a Sony CXA2075M. The Lm1881 from a MVS-1C board's sync line amped the sync signal too high for the CXA2075M. Putting a voltage divider between it and the CXA2075M and lowering the Sync signal fixed it.

I never bothered to scope the input/output of the LM1881, I guess I should when I have time. I know the Sony CXA2075's are very picky about the sync signal, your SG3000 or whatever might be as well.

I won't bother doing that because my setup works already.
I'm not complaining or seeking help.

I'm trying to give suggestions to help mrkotfw but got derailed.

[Pasky]

I'm not providing an answer solely to you, it's anyone else with the setup or not getting signal after using a LM1881, including the person you're trying to help.

[Einzelherz]

Or a Saturn plug, since apparently that would work too?

A Saturn AV cable won't fit in a Genesis 2/3 AV port (10 pins vs. 9).

Oh yes, I know. I'm asking if wiring up the NESRGB to a mini din 9 or 10 like either a Gen2 or Saturn (respectively) would allow me to use the appropriate Sega cable rather than having to buy the proprietary one.

[mufunyo]

Interesting stuff about the NESRGB's CS# and the LM1881. Thanks for the info guys!

[ApolloBoy]

Oh yes, I know. I'm asking if wiring up the NESRGB to a mini din 9 or 10 like either a Gen2 or Saturn (respectively) would allow me to use the appropriate Sega cable rather than having to buy the proprietary one.

Well yes, but you'd have to remove the caps and 75 ohm resistors on the NESRGB since the cable already has them. The caps shouldn't matter that much but you'll get a darker picture if you leave the 75 ohm resistors there.

[mrkotfw]

Everything works now!

I tried the suggestion of simply wiring composite video straight to the TV and it showed a picture. Then I rewired everything and it works now! Occasionally the screen shifts really fast. Like every 15 seconds.



Does anyone's voltage regulator get really hot?

[Pasky]

If you're talking about the one included by Tim, I've measured it and it's gotten to 201* Farenheit. That little dinky copper plane it has isn't sufficient. The stock regulator is sufficient to power everything, and that thing shouldn't get hot at all with the giant heat sink it has.

[lettuce]

If you're talking about the one included by Tim, I've measured it and it's gotten to 201* Farenheit. That little dinky copper plane it has isn't sufficient. The stock regulator is sufficient to power everything, and that thing shouldn't get hot at all with the giant heat sink it has.

So is this what all the pro modders are doing then, just using the internal Nintendo fitted regulator and not Tim's? As the heatsink on that gets super hot to the touch with everything at stock and the NESRGB not even fitted!?

[mrkotfw]

If you're talking about the one included by Tim, I've measured it and it's gotten to 201* Farenheit. That little dinky copper plane it has isn't sufficient. The stock regulator is sufficient to power everything, and that thing shouldn't get hot at all with the giant heat sink it has.

So is this what all the pro modders are doing then, just using the internal Nintendo fitted regulator and not Tim's? As the heatsink on that gets super hot to the touch with everything at stock and the NESRGB not even fitted!?

Tim's V regulator burns an th NES heat sink is nowhere near as hot. I still don't understand myself.

[ApolloBoy]

How do you have it wired up?

[RGB32E]

CS# if I recall correctly, on the NESRGB board is the V output put through an lm1881.

As Tim has mentioned earlier in this thread, CS# is the output from sync stripped PPUV (PPU pin 20) via a EL1881 (not a LM1881).

Years ago someone demonstrated what happens when you run CSYNC from a CPS-2 through a LM1881 to a XRGB-3 in B1 mode. It resulted in a wavy image. Just because something is tolerant of superfluous sync stripping doesn't make it a good idea.

Tim's V regulator burns and the NES heat sink is nowhere near as hot. I still don't understand myself.

Neither do I? I've installed a number of NESRGB boards using Tim's voltage regulator and never found it to get more than slightly warm to the touch. Could be where you're mounting it, or that you've connected it to the stock voltage regulators output instead of input.

Oh yes, I know. I'm asking if wiring up the NESRGB to a mini din 9 or 10 like either a Gen2 or Saturn (respectively) would allow me to use the appropriate Sega cable rather than having to buy the proprietary one.

Well yes, but you'd have to remove the caps and 75 ohm resistors on the NESRGB since the cable already has them. The caps shouldn't matter that much but you'll get a darker picture if you leave the 75 ohm resistors there.

A Genesis 2 RGB cable is probably the last cable you'd ever want to reuse! See Tim's comments in the Genesis buzzing audio thread!

As far as the SNES cable reuse goes, there's no reason to remove the 220uF tantalums on the NESRGB board. This is another one of those items Tim has commented on, yet people do not remember...

[Zer0-2k11]

Does anybody know when Tim is going to restock more NESRGB boards?. He's been out of stock for a little while now...

[ApolloBoy]

Does anybody know when Tim is going to restock more NESRGB boards?. He's been out of stock for a little while now...

Not sure, you could try emailing him though.

[ms06fz]

Yeah I only found out about NESRGB a couple days ago and I been anxiously looking around for any sort of availability update... Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit sniffin' glue.

[sazyario]

Does anyone have a model number for the bulky toggle switch tim supplied for a short while?

[mvsfan]

Tims regulator is running hot because either the input on Tims regulator is connected to the 5v output on the nes regulator - or theres a bad connection somewhere in the power section of your wiring or board. Its definately not the norm. Ive installed 2 in frontloader Nes's and both ran very cool.

I dont know of a model no. for that switch - but if your wondering how its wired - i just used my multimeter to figure out how the switch was wired internally and took it from there.

Tims not including the fat on on on switch anymore. Hes since changed the switch logic on v1.4 to allow a more user friendly On Off on single-pole switch although I still have a bunch of on on on's that i need to use up. I didnt like the slide switch that came with the original kits so i bought some.

I asked earlier in this thread and it was confirmed that any of the 3 different switches will still work with 1.4.

[sazyario]

I ask because I want to use it for something else.
It's nice metal construction with a long "neck" for mounting it.

[Moosmann]

I connect my unmodified US NES via Video/Audio Chinch to my Sony W6 this week. With the Option "Game" and "Bevorzugte Anzeigegeschwindigkeit" it is possible to make the composite video quality a little better. But i have to try 1-2 times to switch from off to on to get the right picture. Take a look:

[eightbitminiboss]

I connect my unmodified US NES via Video/Audio Chinch to my Sony W6 this week. With the Option "Game" and "Bevorzugte Anzeigegeschwindigkeit" it is possible to make the composite video quality a little better. But i have to try 1-2 times to switch from off to on to get the right picture. Take a look:

Understandable, Sony sets have a history with good comb filters.