Fudoh's ode to old display technology

[mgy1523]

Like this?

http://i.imgur.com/amo0wZL.jpg

And before you ask, yes it's connected to the RGB System not the Optional RGB System (and does the same thing on both).

Try using the BKM adaptor then go to OPT RGB SYST and select COMP/INT. After you've done that, then adjust the phase knob on the PVM panel.

Let me know if that helped.

[Mishrak109]

Was worth a shot at least.

http://i.imgur.com/7s2tYuV.jpg

Phase knob made no change at all under component. I could see why you would have me adjust that though when I tried it in s-video.

[mgy1523]

Damn, when I get home tonight I'm going to hook mine up and see if I can mess around with it and see if it's possibly the PVM that just needs to be configured.

[Mishrak109]

I really appreciate that. I hope that's the case.

[Ed Oscuro]

Phase knob does nothing for RGB by design (RGB values are already set) so I'm not surprised it would do nothing in YPbPr.

Is there a COMP/EXT option? Just try switching between the options available.

When you say component, you mean you're connecting the SNES via a three-plug cable, right? Also, if it's capable of RGB (I assume this means proper RGB output over the analog multi port), why not just get a RGB cable?

[Mishrak109]

Is there a COMP/EXT option? Just try switching between the options available.

Since people keep asking if I've tried an input, here's all of them:

S-Video: http://i.imgur.com/k5R7nvI.jpg

RGB/EXT: http://i.imgur.com/y7lzgsi.jpg (connected via component)

RGB/INT: http://i.imgur.com/DMxGnWE.jpg (connected via component)

Comp/INT: http://i.imgur.com/F68wKKC.jpg (camera makes it brighter)

Comp/EXT: http://i.imgur.com/z8pyLRR.jpg

In the case of both EXT settings, the picture moves in waves across the screen and is not stable. The results are exactly identical on both sets of connectors.

Is that /EXT setting looking for an external sync? Would it be possible for me to sync it externally?

When you say component, you mean you're connecting the SNES via a three-plug cable, right? Also, if it's capable of RGB (I assume this means proper RGB output over the analog multi port), why not just get a RGB cable?

There are several reasons, and I'll clear this up fully because this keeps getting mentioned too.

1) I plan on streaming to a PEXHDCAP via component cables.
2) Component cables are a lot more accessible and inexpensive than SCART cables and I don't currently have the SCART cables.
3) It requires the least amount of hardware change for my stream setup if I want to stream component quality video from my SNES.
4) It allows me to have two video outputs on the same console. (my original plan was to stream s-video and watch in component, now it will be the opposite)

And even so, getting RGB cables still doesn't explain why the component video isn't working on my PVM20L2MD. I know that's a very viable solution, and I'm not 100% against it, but I have component and the reason I posted in the first place was to attempt to diagnose the problem.

[BazookaBen]

Do you have Preset color mode off? That prevents you from using the front knobs.

[Mishrak109]

Yes, that is off.

[Ed Oscuro]

Right off the bat, the RGB input doesn't work right because you don't have the sync in RGBs going to the system. That's why that one looks wavy and crazy. If you do get an RGB cable that one should look fine.

On one of my PVM-20L2 monitors, and using the official PS3 era component cable on a JP PS2 slim (and running Raiden II off Raiden Project, in both screen modes - pillarboxed and in tate) I get accurate color with these settings:

For the bottom inputs, select COMP/INT. All other settings give errors. Note that you have to push the RGB/COMPONENT button to select these.
For my BKM-129X, again select COMP/INT. This is OPT 1, which is lit up (in use) in at least some of your pictures.

Interestingly I noted that colors could look off unless I bumped the plugs - if fit between your component cable and the RCA to BNC adapters isn't good, try jiggling them. Also double check that you have the right component jacks in each plug: On the PVM inputs, the order is green, blue, red.

PHASE does nothing, CHROMA affects saturation.

[Mishrak109]

No dice. Still does the same thing.

My ability to select which input is being used is here:

http://imgur.com/9DFaWhd

RGB/Component is the stock panel on the lower backside of the monitor. Option 1 is the BKM-129X which is selected in the photo, but the little light is hard to see because of the camera flash.

All the cables seem to be connected correctly and are in the correct order.

[Ed Oscuro]

Yes, I've been through that as well. It should be literally the exact same configuration. All that should matter is having COMP/INT chosen for the active input, be that RGB/COMPONENT or OPT 1. Either this is based around something hidden in menus which I can't think of (but I can't think why this should be the case), or there is a problem somewhere.

Unless somebody comes up with a simple suggestion, I'd try troubleshooting the component input of the PVM by inputing 15KHz component from another device. The PS2 and the original Xbox will do this.

[BazookaBen]

Unless somebody comes up with a simple suggestion, I'd try troubleshooting the component input of the PVM by inputing 15KHz component from another device. The PS2 and the original Xbox will do this.

He mentioned that these component cables work on other TV's, so it sounds like a problem with his PVM. There are lots of color options in the service menu dealing specifically with Component video, so maybe that's something he should look into.

[Mishrak109]

How do you even access the service menu? I've not been able to locate a manual for it either yet.

[BazookaBen]

Enter regular menu, then hold Enter and press Degauss.

Hit Degauss twice whenever you want to save your changes (Be careful!)

Even if you can't find a service manual for your version of PVM, there's enough overlap with the other models that you can get an idea of how to navigate yours.

[Mishrak109]

Well, I don't think I'm gonna screw with this unless someone can tell me what to adjust.

[Ed Oscuro]

You should still rule out the input. It seems highly unlikely that another source will work where the SNES failed - it's just transcoding and the SNES works on other TVs, I did get that - but this will be very easy to check, if you have another component source. That would let you definitively rule out the SNES component connection with this TV. Like I said, I noticed some unexpected things with a simple component connection for one of my PVMs.

About the service menu, you really can't go on a fishing expedition in there. Without knowing what you are looking for, settings can be dangerous.

If you want to note some of the settings in the service menu, I'd be happy to compare those to mine. However, given the nature of these things, there's no guarantee settings from one set will work on another.

Whatever you do, don't enable Aging Mode, and don't do Factory Reset or any kind of reset.

[Mishrak109]

Yeah, I had read enough to know better before I messed around with anything. I took a navigating look at the menus and decided to set it aside.

I'll try to get ahold of some PS2 component cables (need them anyway) soon and see if I can figure something out.

[BazookaBen]

I'll try to get ahold of some PS2 component cables (need them anyway) soon and see if I can figure something out.

The Monster cables are good, very durable and should last a long time, not as cheap as they were a few years ago but they're still an OK price:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?clk_rvr_ ... 29&_sop=15

On the other hand, if you find a set of component cables that also has the composite connection, it will also work as an RGB cable (sync on yellow).

[Jademalo]

Hey, quick question to anyone who has a BVM-20F1E, is a buzzing sound normal?

I can't remember if it was like this when I got it, but if I stand to the left hand side then I can hear a buzzing that's sort of like a cricket. It's hard to describe, so I've tried to record it;
https://soundcloud.com/jademalo/bvm-buzz/s-k3SW5
It's not the best, but you can hear it starting about 7 seconds in. It's not the standard CRT high pitched squeal, it's definitely a buzz.

Just want to make sure that it's normal and nothing to be concerned about, or if there's any easy way of sorting it without bother.
Thanks!

[Bancho]

For any one interested i did a little comparison of a new Sony PVM 20M4E i picked up today against my JVC. It cost me £35 which i'm happy with. Its the most i have spent on a display (yes i like to do things on the cheap!)

Scanlines are really nice and thick. Ever so slightly thicker than the JVC but not much given the JVC is 750 lines and the m4e is 800. The JVC stomps the Sony for geometry. One thing i hate about PVM's is the tweaking you need to do in the service menu. I've only spent a small time with the 4e but i need to put some time to getting the geo tweaked more. In comparison the JVC took me 5 mins to set up, center and re-size the screen and done. I think i slightly prefer the colours on the JVC, but to be fair i haven't given the Sony any time. I prefer the screen glass on the Sony as it's only a horizontal curve unlike the JVC which has Hori/Vert curving of the glass.

Overall i'm pleased with my Screens now. 3 Screens 14" PVM 14m2e. 20" PVM 20m4e and my JVC 20". All three screens cost me a total sum of £46! Bargain!

Comparison Shot. SMB3 RGBFamicom

Sony



JVC




Couple of scanline shots of the SNES

[Xan]

Very nice SNES shots, love the contrast between the focused/defocused areas.

[BazookaBen]

So what distinguishes the PVM M2 series vs. the M4? 800 lines vs 600 lines? Anything else?

[donluca]

So what distinguishes the PVM M2 series vs. the M4? 800 lines vs 600 lines? Anything else?

AFAIK the PVM-xxM4 were the top of the PVM line.

I believe they use better phosphors too, not sure though, same as BVM-xxM4DE (which was at the same time the bottom of the BVM line iirc)

[BazookaBen]

AFAIK the PVM-xxM4 were the top of the PVM line.

I believe they use better phosphors too, not sure though, same as BVM-xxM4DE (which was at the same time the bottom of the BVM line iirc)

Is the front bezel dark-grey instead of beige? Because I may have seen one at my local PVM place.

[donluca]

Aesthetically the PVM-14M4E and BVM-14M4DE are identical.

[BazookaBen]

I meant in contrast to the PVM-**M2MD. Those have beige fronts.

But yeah, the warehouse I went to had tons of PVMs, all M2, L2, etc., but there was one with a dark grey front bezel. It was below two pallets of other PVM's though, so I couldn't turn it to see its model number. May have been an 20M4.

[donluca]

My PVM and BVM have both a dark grey bezel.
I believe the beige ones were the Medical grade monitors.

Also, I recommend staying away from the "M" series of PVM and BVM unless you're ready to get your hands dirty and do a complete recap.
The caps in those monitors have been proved problematic.

If you can get a newer (or even older) series is better.

I know I'll have to go through a complete recap (140 electrolitic caps, yay!) and it will take me quite a bit of time (and money!).

[Mishrak109]

I can confirm that my PVM 20L2MD is biege.

[geekmiki]

I manged to get a JVC TM-H150CG, only problem is that it has an SDI card and the only RGB/Component input cards I've found (JVC IF-C01COMG) are £150 without shipping which will end up in £200+ with shipping and taxes to Norway.

Am I missing any options to get RGB signals to that monitor without that specific card?

Thank you in advance!

[BazookaBen]

I manged to get a JVC TM-H150CG, only problem is that it has an SDI card and the only RGB/Component input cards I've found (JVC IF-C01COMG) are £150 without shipping

Have you checked ebay to see how much the SDI card sells for? Put it up on Ebay with global shipping. Who knows, there may be a studio in Hollywood that needs a replacement. Maybe it could offset your costs a little bit.