Fudoh's ode to old display technology

[lui]

Does an RGB21 to BNC adaptor require any components, or is it merely a direct pass-through?
I had intended to purchase : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Female-RGB21-to ... 1511848802
for use with a super famicom console, but making my own would be a more "attractive" solution since I am assuming the following cables are relatively cheaply made.

Just tap into the R, G, B and composite lines, and ground all of them. That's about it.

You can check the picture I posted a few posts earlier.

Also regarding BNC coaxial cables, is there a noticeable difference between a 50ohm impedance BNC cable, and a 75ohm impedance cable?

As I am heading down the direction of building my own, I am intending to purchase a pair of these perhaps : http://www.ebay.com/itm/50cm-0-5m-RG316 ... 35d9406cd0
Due to the BNC heads being relatively small in size and the cable being thin.

But RG316 is a 50ohm impedance.

[elmagicochrisg]

Also regarding BNC coaxial cables, is there a noticeable difference between a 50ohm impedance BNC cable, and a 75ohm impedance cable?

As I am heading down the direction of building my own, I am intending to purchase a pair of these perhaps : http://www.ebay.com/itm/50cm-0-5m-RG316 ... 35d9406cd0
Due to the BNC heads being relatively small in size and the cable being thin.

But RG316 is a 50ohm impedance.

No idea. Better ask someone else about that.

[Fudoh]

For short runs it really doesn't matter.

BNC/SDI connections can run for hundreds of ft and that is where it gets important.

We equipped a friend's BVM setup with 50 ohm cabling (8ft cables) and didn't notice any problems.

[ociplaC]

I may have a lead on a Sony PVM-20L5, to join my current 14L5! I'm concerned a little about the price though and would like to ask for counsel from experienced buyers.

The seller had a BKM142 HD card installed, so the combined monitor and card went for $600 PLUS $130 shipping.

I PM'd the guy asking if he could uninstall the card and sell it separately, as someone else would want it more than me. Then I told him I could arrange for local pickup to completely knock out the shipping cost. So far, they have dropped to $495 after removing the card.

What do you guys think? Is this fair? Or should I push my luck and try to negotiate down $50-$75 somehow? If you've successfully negotiated on a deal in the past, how did you do it?

[Fudoh]

$500 is the price tag I would put on a D-series BVM in 20" (BVM-D20F1).

[Ed Oscuro]

Hard to say if that PVM price is good or not. I paid something like $500 for mine and I rather regret it. However if it had arrived completely fine and had a great picture for 240p out of the box, I wouldn't mind so much.

PVMs don't ship well. Especially the PVM 20L5 I would be worried about shipping.

[Xyga]

Even if it's in good shape I'd say that's way too expensive.
For that price I would demand proof of its mileage (hrs of usage in the menu), + enough good quality pics or vdeo of the unit in action with the basic geometry/color test patterns... and/or proof that it has been recently serviced by professional hands.
Seriously.

[Ed Oscuro]

PVM 20L5 doesn't have an hours counter so you have to guess :/
For our purposes it basically does everything the BVM does, but it seems it's substantially less rugged and not having an hours of operation counter sucks big time. No pull-out board for adjustments either.

[c4ke]

@ociplaC: I totally agree with Xyga. 600$ is pretty expensive, even for a 14L5.

[Ed Oscuro]

Is there any reason for preferring the PVM chassis over the BVM?

Also, for a 14" I would halve the price, at least. It's the more desireable 20" version he was talking about.

[ociplaC]

@Ed Escuro: You might remember but the 14L5 I picked up a month ago was $185, local pickup. It came with an SD SDI Option Card, but it gets no use out of me. Again, with this deal I have the opportunity to do local pickup, so shipping costs/worries are not a factor.

The seller's description is not very specific on the condition of the tube. They claim it was used in a Broadcast Facility until it was shut down 2 years ago, and the unit has been in storage ever since. As for testing, they say it "displays Color Bars from external input," but again this isn't very specific in regards to possible tube issues (discoloration, warping, convergence misalignment).

I want to check the settings and conduct my own testing on the PVM, using the Wii version of 240P Suite and one 240P, 480I, and 480P title each. I think I could negotiate the seller down to $450 down from $500, to cover my gas and me performing personal tests. I might be pushing my luck if I went further, let's see...

[BazookaBen]

Nice work c4ke, that's good information in case something ever gives out in my 20L2 or 20M2.

[Xyga]

I mean even for a 20" or bigger, unless it's confirmed fucking perfect there's no reason to pay so much for an used crt monitor, even broadcast-level.
Probably 9 out of 10 of those Sonys are really old, with issues, sometimes too big issues to do anything unless you've got beyond average skills, parts, and proper tools.

- For something 20" to 29" I haven't tested myself, with no pictures of the unit in action I'd pay max $50 just looking at the cosmetic condition.
- One with pics of it in action showing an okay~ish image, max $150 depending on the model and cosmetic.
- With excellent pics showing test patterns and even a good video, around $200-300 depending on model and cosmetic.
- And same as above + proof of decently low hours running + history of servicing and even invoices if applicable or closeup photos of serviced parts; $300-500 depending on model and cosmetics.

An rgb crt is the best, but unless it's in really, really good working condition... it's just garbage.

[BazookaBen]

Honestly, if you're east of the Mississippi, it's worth your time to drive down to Tekyard in Elkin, NC with a Dreamcast running the 240p test suite and just try one of their 40 or so PVM's until you find one you like. Especially now while gas is cheap. The last one I bought from them was $35, built in 2004 with a pristine tube.

[Ed Oscuro]

@Ed Escuro: You might remember but the 14L5 I picked up a month ago was $185, local pickup. It came with an SD SDI Option Card, but it gets no use out of me. Again, with this deal I have the opportunity to do local pickup, so shipping costs/worries are not a factor.

Ah, yes. Likewise you're not desperate with no local options, either, like I was when I got the 20L5, and you are saving them the hassle of long-distance salez. You should really not go above $450. I'd even try $300. I'd say you should definitely try and get it "at all costs" but $450 is pushing what the market value is.

FWIW I think it's a bit overkill to spring for one of these if there are any regular 600TVL options locally, which there might well be, if you don't foresee any use for the 480p and higher resolutions.

[BazookaBen]

FWIW I think it's a bit overkill to spring for one of these if there are any regular 600TVL options locally, which there might well be, if you don't foresee any use for the 480p and higher resolutions.

I recommend just getting Trinitron or Diamondtron computer monitor for 480p and higher. With the PC CRT you can basically play at any resolution. 1080p for Wipeout HD, 720p for most other PS3 games, 1800p for Ikaruga (Steam version), 1200p at 100hz for Battlefield 4, and so on.

Then you can have your little PVM on the side for 480i/240p. Having two monitors takes up more space but you end up getting the best PQ for all games.

[Xan]

Wipeout HD

Perhaps the one modern-ish game I'd be really intrigued to see on a multiformat BVM or even an OLED PVM... from watching a couple of making-of videos, a lot of developers still used CRTs even when creating 7th gen games.

[tacoguy64]

A little over a month ago I was browsing craigslist, making my regular checks for old crt's that might pop out anywhere in the states. At this point I have been looking for any 15khz rgb monitors for about 2-3 months.

That's when I saw an ad for an NEC multiSync xp37 plus. I emailed the person and got a quick response. I told him I really wanted the tv and that if it was possible for him to sell to me via paypal. But he declined, and instead told me that if I wanted to get the tv I would have to pay cash. Naturally I thought scam but what the heck, he seemed legit (showed me his ebay account and had a good rating and great feedback) and he wasn't asking to much for tv.

That same morning I went to FED EX and securely sent cash for next day delivery. There was another guy that day that was suppose to see the tv on Thursday, but he missed his window of opportunity and my cash payment arrived early on friday, locking me in as the buyer. Fast forward to today, and I have the beast of a television and it is a beauty.

I couldn't get it to work yet for my retro consoles. I think the sync might be out of wack or something. Anybody with experience using the NEC multiSync that could help me I would really appreciate it. In the meantime I did plug my laptop to it and played game on it.

http://i.imgur.com/AXBRN2D.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zpCp5yv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/v0o8DQR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8fBXslE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UhpvOrw.jpg

[Mishrak109]

Has anyone run into this situation before? I have an RGB restored snes with a component mod on it and my PVM 20L2MD is giving me a total green image. S-video works just fine, and the cables and snes work fine on another CRT. Is there something I can to do fix this, or am I kinda SoL as far as component goes? I guess in that case, the next step is to pick up the SCART connectors.

S-Video
http://i.imgur.com/xvYWcXK.jpg

Component Video
http://i.imgur.com/3YVWcop.jpg

[Xan]

Setting your monitor to component instead of RGB?

[Mishrak109]

I tried all the simple things like that.

Setting it to component does the exact same thing as RGB only it's a bit brighter.

[Xan]

I'm not familiar with this model, but it's strange that the OSD shows RGB (and 480i as well). In any event, using a component mod on the SNES is pretty counter-intuitive considering you already have the right monitor for RGB, so I'd go for that instead anyway.

[Mishrak109]

Well the component mod means I don't have to do all the RGB cable stuff and it accomplishes the same thing with one American standard cable rather than two EU cables, and it works fine on other CRTs. I'm well aware that RGB is a solution, but my question still stands about component:

Why is it doing this?

[BazookaBen]

You have it set to RGB, go back into the PVM's menu. Set it to Comp - int sync

[Mishrak109]

Like this?

http://i.imgur.com/amo0wZL.jpg

And before you ask, yes it's connected to the RGB System not the Optional RGB System (and does the same thing on both).

[BazookaBen]

Do you have any other component systems (PS2, Xbox, PS3, etc.)? What do they look like? Do you have any systems that you can hook up via RGB?

[Mishrak109]

I don't have component cables for them sadly, but even if I did, that wouldn't tell me anything new probably. I've already determined that the component mod is working correctly, as well as the cable I'm using by testing it on another CRT. So the issue isn't the console. There's either a) a setting I'm missing on the PVM or b) it just flat out doesn't like the component for some reason. I'll probably get ahold of the SCART cables in the next week or so and hopefully that works OK.

[BazookaBen]

I don't have component cables for them sadly, but even if I did, that wouldn't tell me anything new probably. I've already determined that the component is working correctly, as well as the cable I'm using by testing it on another CRT. So the issue isn't the console. There's either a) a setting I'm missing on the PVM or b) it just flat out doesn't like the component for some reason. I'll probably get ahold of the SCART cables in the next week or so and hopefully that works OK.

If it's giving you the same color in component and RGB mode it sounds like a deeper issue. Normally if you switch to RGB mode from Component, or vice-versa, the colors change drastically.

[Mishrak109]

Yeah I'm quite curious to know what that is. It's interesting to me how the s-video works just fine.

[c4ke]

Is there any reason for preferring the PVM chassis over the BVM?

I love the clean look of the 14L5, the overall dimensions are smaller compared to the BVM and it has a built-in speaker which I often use. It also matches perfectly next to my 14L3. :-)