Questions that do not deserve a thread

[LordHypnos]

Does anyone know what the best way would be to adjust the screen geometry on my PC monitor for my Xbox 360's VGA signal? Running it at 1024x768. For my Dreamcast I use the 240p test suite's red box pattern thing (can't remember what it's called).

You have to adjust the geometry independently for each scan rate. So any adjustments you make to 480p from the Dreamcast won't carry over to 1024x768. Your best bet is to either hook up a PC and load test patterns at 1024x768, or load the test patterns on your 360. I don't know if the 360 lets you look at image files directly (the PS3 does), but you could always go to lagom.nl in your 360's Internet Explorer

Thanks, I'll try that. Probably wouldn't be too big a deal to just run my laptop in at 1024x768 if it doesn't work

EDIT: Should probably mention that my PC monitor is a CRT... I thought I had before. lagom.nl looks like LCD calibration stuff...
EDIT 2: both the lagom.nl site (though probably not all of the patterns on it), and this site I found with several CRT test patterns seem to work using the 360 browser, but you need to make sure that you turn off the white borders on the browser (In the browser settings). Still nothing as comprehensive as 240p test suite. It does occur to me, however, that I could probably find some sort of DVD with test patterns if I looked around (or maybe burn one), although DVDs do not run at 1024x768 resolution ever, and I'm not sure if the 360's upscaling would be adequate for some purposes... Somebody here probably knows.

[Unseen]

It does occur to me, however, that I could probably find some sort of DVD with test patterns if I looked around (or maybe burn one), although DVDs do not run at 1024x768 resolution ever, and I'm not sure if the 360's upscaling would be adequate for some purposes... Somebody here probably knows.

You could try the AVS HD 709 test pattern collection, the MP4 version should be playable on the Xbox 360.

[BazookaBen]

Yeah, I forgot to mention I use the lagom.nl patterns mostly for setting brightness and contrast, I have test patterns I found on the avsforums for geometry. I'm sure you can find plenty through google searches as well.

[Some-Mist]

I saw someone selling an armed police batrider korean ver b board with JPN ver b roms. I've had zakk roms burned for my garegga board and they were simple to install, but how would I go about switching the version of my board from korean b to jpn b. It bugs the shit out of me that the extends don't drop and I can't adjust the autofire rate.

I feel like it's just a request that I can put into a rom dealer/burner since theres already a ton of dumps, but I figured it's best to ask here for clarification.

[Einzelherz]

Why did HD CRTs top out at 1080i? Was 1080p just asking too much of the electron guns?

[Grimakis]

Why did HD CRTs top out at 1080i? Was 1080p just asking too much of the electron guns?

This is just a guess, but it isn't until recently that almost all LCDs even support 1080p. Smaller size units often still have the 768p resolution. By the time CRTs supported 1080i, they were already nearing-extinction. I would assume that with newer thinner LCDs being all the rage, the demand for a 1080p CRT just wasn't there. Maybe it was cost prohibitive.

[Einzelherz]

Well that's what I meant. Not that electron guns *can't* do it, just they couldn't at the time.

[tacoguy64]

Why did HD CRTs top out at 1080i? Was 1080p just asking too much of the electron guns?

This is just a guess, but it isn't until recently that almost all LCDs even support 1080p. Smaller size units often still have the 768p resolution. By the time CRTs supported 1080i, they were already nearing-extinction. I would assume that with newer thinner LCDs being all the rage, the demand for a 1080p CRT just wasn't there. Maybe it was cost prohibitive.

PC crts topped out at higher resolutions. The highest i remember were in the 2048x1536 range but I don't ever think there was ever a limit to how far crts can output.

[Grimakis]

Why did HD CRTs top out at 1080i? Was 1080p just asking too much of the electron guns?

This is just a guess, but it isn't until recently that almost all LCDs even support 1080p. Smaller size units often still have the 768p resolution. By the time CRTs supported 1080i, they were already nearing-extinction. I would assume that with newer thinner LCDs being all the rage, the demand for a 1080p CRT just wasn't there. Maybe it was cost prohibitive.

PC crts topped out at higher resolutions. The highest i remember were in the 2048x1536 range but I don't ever think there was ever a limit to how far crts can output.

There's a good point. Forgot all about PC monitors. They did get up there in terms on resolution. My money is on lack of demand(and 1080p content) by the time of the CRT's demise.

[Xan]

Yeah, it's easy to forget that by 2002 or so even mainstream PC CRTs had maximum resolutions of 1920x1440. 60 Hz on CRTs just isn't very ergonomic with lots of white screens though and those high resolutions were a bit blurry as well.

[Ed Oscuro]

Most of those PC CRTs supported considerably higher refresh rates, and I don't recall my sorely missed 21" 1600x1200 being blurry at all.

Limitations on CRT fine pitch were probably mainly determined by the expense and precision required to get that many aperture wires solidly in place (I'm not sure how expensive the lithographic phosphor deposition process would have been, but that may have gotten more expensive for finer pitch screens as well, though certainly it was being done for regular screens at any size). For the considerably larger consumer TV, I think it was simply judged that the demand didn't support building a plant.

There's also the technical challenge posed by how the horizontal beam sweep is voltage driven: In order to accelerate the beam across the screen in half the time (i.e., for a 31KHz screen instead of 15KHz), voltage is roughly doubled, before design changes. Newer designs may make this problem less relevant than it seems at first, however.

[BazookaBen]

Yeah, there just wasn't any 1080p content at the time CRT's started to fade out. Blurays didn't exist yet, and all TV broadcasts were 1080i or 720p. Netflix was just a DVD mail service.

Some CRT projectors could do 1080p, though I'm not sure what sort of content they needed 1080p for.

And PC CRT's can go crazy high. The Sony FW-900 can actually do 4k at interlaced 30hz.

[Xan]

Can anyone rate the quality of this S-Video OoT capture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfThglMW64E

He says he used a DVD recorder to convert it from 240p to 480i in order for the capture card to record it. It looks pretty decent to me overall, though the text seems somewhat pixelized. Not sure if that's normal or due to the conversion process, since I've only played the GC version (which outputs in 480i).

[Lord of Pirates]

Most of those PC CRTs supported considerably higher refresh rates, and I don't recall my sorely missed 21" 1600x1200 being blurry at all.

Limitations on CRT fine pitch were probably mainly determined by the expense and precision required to get that many aperture wires solidly in place (I'm not sure how expensive the lithographic phosphor deposition process would have been, but that may have gotten more expensive for finer pitch screens as well, though certainly it was being done for regular screens at any size). For the considerably larger consumer TV, I think it was simply judged that the demand didn't support building a plant.

There's also the technical challenge posed by how the horizontal beam sweep is voltage driven: In order to accelerate the beam across the screen in half the time (i.e., for a 31KHz screen instead of 15KHz), voltage is roughly doubled, before design changes. Newer designs may make this problem less relevant than it seems at first, however.

I picked up a Daewoo 103FH for free not too long ago and the text is sharp at every resolution I've tried.

[Einzelherz]

I have a CSY-2100 clone that occasionally creates climbing waves of interference on my PVM. Since it's not every single time, I assume it has something to do with the power input from the plug. It uses a 12v 500mA adapter. What I'm curious about is if it is a power issue, would getting a higher amperage power supply help alleviate the issue?

Edit: turns out I'm a dummy. The cables were loose. A little plier action and we're all set!

[Blinge]

My little CRT's picture sometimes moves to the side very quickly, like the screen has been nudged from within or something. It is quite rare.

Anybody know what this is? is problem?

[Ed Oscuro]

deflection caps are goin'?

[Charleaux330]

I have a question... Is it possible to get a SPDIF optical/coax out of the original NES?

[TJB]

Rotating a New Astro City monitor from Horizontal to Vertical.

I just have a brief question, I'll be laying it on its back as I do this, is it absolutely necessary that I unplug anything in the back? Wires are hanging loose at this point.

I've looked at the usual suspects for information, I think I'm just after reassurance :V

[ApolloBoy]

I have a question... Is it possible to get a SPDIF optical/coax out of the original NES?

Nope, the audio that comes straight out of the 2A03 is analog so you'd need an external converter for that.

[beatsgo]

Rotating a New Astro City monitor from Horizontal to Vertical.

I just have a brief question, I'll be laying it on its back as I do this, is it absolutely necessary that I unplug anything in the back? Wires are hanging loose at this point.

I've looked at the usual suspects for information, I think I'm just after reassurance :V

First things first: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/9/96 ... Manual.pdf

PDF pg 17 will inform you what needs to be disconnected. You really are just disconnecting 2 plugs (audio and video connections) underneath the CP.

[TJB]

Rotating a New Astro City monitor from Horizontal to Vertical.

I just have a brief question, I'll be laying it on its back as I do this, is it absolutely necessary that I unplug anything in the back? Wires are hanging loose at this point.

I've looked at the usual suspects for information, I think I'm just after reassurance :V

First things first: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/9/96 ... Manual.pdf

PDF pg 17 will inform you what needs to be disconnected. You really are just disconnecting 2 plugs (audio and video connections) underneath the CP.

Just got that sinking feeling upon the realization that indeed I could've simply just looked at the manual also, go me.

Thanks for pointing that out, rotating it tonight for Esparade & Espgaluda 2 and given the scarcity of working things in Australia (and their absurd cost) I'm terrified of botching something.

[YONKE]

Im looking for a monitor for console gaming (xb360,ps3,retron5) low on lag & ghosting. I was having in mind getting BenQ Gaming Monitor RL2455HM but TN panel its a NO for tate

I found this IPS monitor

do you recommend it ?


http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VX2452M ... op?ie=UTF8

Thanks in advance.

[Xyga]

http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VX2452M ... op?ie=UTF8

That one's a TN too.

I would suggest the entry level LG IPS monitors instead, pretty much all low lag and well-overdriven standard IPS.
24MP55HQ-P, 24MP56HQ-P, 24MP57HQ-P
Sometimes they're found in 23" size and slightly cheaper, just replace the '24' by '23' in the product name.

They (LG) have even lower-grade models (i.e. MP35, MP37, MP47 etc) and higher end ones (MP65, MP67, MP75, MP76, MP77 etc) but all-in-all they're the same just with more or less useless features.
IMHO the 'MP5*' series is the brand's sweet spot in terms of price and performance.

Check that recent discussion and in particular my exchange with Kilmaattikahn http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... &start=120

EDIT: by the way LG also have a 'hidden' category of monitors, which are basically their entry level IPS models with added fully-adjustable and rotating stand: for instance 24MB35PY-B, 24MB35PU-B, 24MB35P-B
The only issue with those it that they normally lack an HDMI input, which means you'll have to use an HDMI>DVI adapter if you want to use an HD console, but that's not a big problem as adapters are lossless and cheap.

[YONKE]

http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VX2452M ... op?ie=UTF8

That one's a TN too.

I would suggest the entry level LG IPS monitors instead, pretty much all low lag and well-overdriven standard IPS.
24MP55HQ-P, 24MP56HQ-P, 24MP57HQ-P
Sometimes they're found in 23" size and slightly cheaper, just replace the '24' by '23' in the product name.

They (LG) have even lower-grade models (i.e. MP35, MP37, MP47 etc) and higher end ones (MP65, MP67, MP75, MP76, MP77 etc) but all-in-all they're the same just with more or less useless features.
IMHO the 'MP5*' series is the brand's sweet spot in terms of price and performance.

Check that recent discussion and in particular my exchange with Kilmaattikahn http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... &start=120

EDIT: by the way LG also have a 'hidden' category of monitors, which are basically their entry level IPS models with added fully-adjustable and rotating stand: for instance 24MB35PY-B, 24MB35PU-B, 24MB35P-B
The only issue with those it that they normally lack an HDMI input, which means you'll have to use an HDMI>DVI adapter if you want to use an HD console, but that's not a big problem as adapters are lossless and cheap.

Thanks for your reply i read all the discussion you commented about ips monitor.

i got confuse with my past link about the ips monitor , i was referring to this one

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K7CMY8C/?ta ... estmonitor

i dig a little bit about this monitor specs doesnt look that bad but havent find any review about if its had ghosting or not

here a not to technical review of it

http://www.pcgamer.com/the-best-gaming-monitors/#page-4


In the past i had very good experiences with the LG Brand , my actual 42 inches TV has been good for my HD gaming in general (42le5300 2.4 ms respond time)

i think i can live with 3-5 ms , what is very important for my its ghosting (or blurness) because im very receptive to blurriness and easily my head start to hurt when i play in blurry monitors. on my LG tv ghosting its very minimal.

After your suggestions on the LG brand i found this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFX ... _i=desktop

vesa compatible, ips 27 inch , im searching for a technical review in this model but havent find it at the moment .. what do you think of this one?

[bobrocks95]

I have a CSY-2100 clone that occasionally creates climbing waves of interference on my PVM. Since it's not every single time, I assume it has something to do with the power input from the plug. It uses a 12v 500mA adapter. What I'm curious about is if it is a power issue, would getting a higher amperage power supply help alleviate the issue?

Edit: turns out I'm a dummy. The cables were loose. A little plier action and we're all set!

Were the waves of interference subtle or very obvious? I'm tempted to yank A/V stuff out and give crimping a shot, though I'm pretty sure my interference is from my plasma. That thing might as well be its own radio tower with the interference it gives out.

[Xyga]

@YONKE: I wrote a long~ish reply here: http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 1#p1099971

[Einzelherz]

I have a CSY-2100 clone that occasionally creates climbing waves of interference on my PVM. Since it's not every single time, I assume it has something to do with the power input from the plug. It uses a 12v 500mA adapter. What I'm curious about is if it is a power issue, would getting a higher amperage power supply help alleviate the issue?

Edit: turns out I'm a dummy. The cables were loose. A little plier action and we're all set!

Were the waves of interference subtle or very obvious? I'm tempted to yank A/V stuff out and give crimping a shot, though I'm pretty sure my interference is from my plasma. That thing might as well be its own radio tower with the interference it gives out.

They were varying. Sometimes they'd travel up, sometimes down. Faint/thick. In my case it was that I think the RCA to BNC connector was loose, but it could have been loose on the RCA side too.

Just take it slow, bending is a lot easier than unbending.

[Immryr]

Can some suggest a decent step down for using a Japanese saturn in the uk? All the ones I've seen either say something like "not for continuous use", or have reviews saying the get very hot and smell of burning electronics.

Or is there a better way of powering it here? Short of swapping out the internal psu board that is.



-edit- is something like this fine? the saturn says it's only 12w. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000 ... 1_1&sr=8-1

[lui]

I have recently purchased a Ps2 D-sub 15pin cable

I'm assuming I will need to purchase a vga to 4 BNC to acquire both 15khz RGBS and 31khz RGSB from the cable?