I just found out about the xrgb-3. Is there any place that still sells them? How are peoples opinion of this? I have read good things, but just wanted to hear peoples opinion of this device. Is there any new devices that have replaced this in terms of quality or features?
You can always check my website http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/ for cheaper (and also more expensive) devices. There are units which are better suited for 480i material, but for 240p the XRGB-3 is king of the hill.
That screenshot feature is simply amazing. a. maz. ing. I need to upgrade my firmware. So far I havn't had a need to since I have mainly been using it as a transcoder, but this is must have stuff. Ordinarily you would have to have a capture card installed, and then record video, and then dump still images off of that. This method, makes taking screenshots a breeze.
"Nature is amazing when you're a kid.
You have fish in the rivers and oceans, and wild plants in the mountains.
There's food to be found everywhere.
That's how we enjoyed nature.
Well not really. You have to set the XRGB-3 in the new B2 mode and for best results use the dot_by_dot setting 1X and then the screen will probably be too small for your liking. Also the aspect is a little off which is why i posted the Gimp-scripts to fix it a page back.
If you want to take screens while playing you have to stop and change screen size and probably switch to B2 mode, and THEN take the picture. The end result is very very nice but the procedure does take some time. Still when you consider that the XRGB-3 was never built for this it's a very impressive feature nonetheless
I can't get a good picture with my WONDERBOY III PCB ... I know that this board has some weird frequencies and also the XRGB can't handle it proberly it seems...
only get a pictures in B0 mode and only 1/3 of the screen is covered
RuffNEC wrote:I can't get a good picture with my WONDERBOY III PCB ... I know that this board has some weird frequencies and also the XRGB can't handle it proberly it seems...
only get a pictures in B0 mode and only 1/3 of the screen is covered
anyone experienced the same ?
This happen to me all the time, mostly with my Genesis (All my system are plug into D2 RGBS). Usual I change the active input on the XRGB and switch back to D2 and the picture go back full screen. But your pcb sync might be so weird that the xrgb will alway do that.
RuffNEC wrote:I can't get a good picture with my WONDERBOY III PCB ... I know that this board has some weird frequencies and also the XRGB can't handle it proberly it seems...
only get a pictures in B0 mode and only 1/3 of the screen is covered
anyone experienced the same ?
This happen to me all the time, mostly with my Genesis (All my system are plug into D2 RGBS). Usual I change the active input on the XRGB and switch back to D2 and the picture go back full screen. But your pcb sync might be so weird that the xrgb will alway do that.
+1. It seems many Sega items from the 68k era have trouble syncing. Switching between inputs works for me as well...
Also, the intro of Bangai-O HD @ PAX2010 (D3 Publisher booth):
I'll have to find out if the game will support 1080p natively...
I don't like to keep my 360 in 1080p mode. Games like Dead Rising and Residente Vil 5 becomes a true tearing hell if set to anything above 720p Of course you could always switch resolution before playing those games but i don't see any difference between the 360 and my TV upscaling to 1080p
Konsolkongen wrote:I don't like to keep my 360 in 1080p mode. Games like Dead Rising and Resident Evil 5 become a true tearing hell if set to anything above 720p Of course you could always switch resolution before playing those games but i don't see any difference between the 360 and my TV upscaling to 1080p
That might be an issue with your TV not syncing to 1080p timing correctly. I've seen quite a few HDTVs have this problem (i.e. VSync OFF on the TV side of things... signal tearing that isn't in the source signal). Typically Capcom games run at 1280x720 (or some other odd frame buffer size) and are scaled by the 360's shenanigans. However, it's completely possible to run 1080p with VSync ON on the 360:
So, if the XNA program is available in Denmark, you could sign up and make your own test programs instead of using static images provided by someone else (do it programmatically).
Hardly any game even runs at full 1280x720. And I think the games natively running in 1080p can be counted on one hand. The problem usually isn't the TV, it's the 360 graphics array which is overcharged by scaling to 1080p. Many games (including a lot running at internal res considerably lower than 720p) take a massive framerate hit when output at 1080p. Setting the output to 1080p is also a problem for the majority of the Cave shoot'em ups which are optimized to be run at 720p.
It's not a problem with my TV Has happened on all tv's i've tried it on including several of my friends
I don't know if the XNA program is available in Denmark, but i'm using a UK account i've had since before Live came to Denmark... Also i don't have any programming experience... yet and i have a feeling you'll need to run Windows on your computer?
RGB32E which was better for RGB to component transcoding? The NeoBitz or "that other one"? If sick and tired of my Neo Geo not working in B1 mode on the XRGB-3 so i want to give this a try
Konsolkongen wrote:RGB32E which was better for RGB to component transcoding? The NeoBitz or "that other one"? If sick and tired of my Neo Geo not working in B1 mode on the XRGB-3 so i want to give this a try
The Kramer FC-14 is the defacto transoder, followed by the xselect followed by the pcbs. Note that the better power supply you use the better PQ. Back inside for PAX!!!
The Kramer FC-14 is the defacto transoder, followed by the xselect
the Kramer is a beast. Got one myself again. But I can't see any difference to the XSelect when in action. Also the XSelect is a bit easier to handle since it accepts composite video as sync and it does cross transcoding (RGB to YUV and YUV to RGB).
Hmm i was hoping for a cheap 20$ solution :p Fudoh didn't you mention some problem with the RGB to component transcoding on the X-select4?
The X-select4 seems like the obvious choice. It matches the design of the XRGB-3 and when used with a PS2 it completely removes the signal noise, right?
It's just so damn expensive and incredible hard to find
Hmm i was hoping for a cheap 20$ solution :p Fudoh didn't you mention some problem with the RGB to component transcoding on the X-select4?
absolutely not, it's what I use all the time, since the analogue filtering is so much better as in the XRGB. The other way around can be problematic since the XSELECT outputs seperate H/V sync even for 15khz signals.
So if i only make the D-select4 output in component and not VGA everything should be fine, right?
Any idea where i might find one? I've seen several in this thread looking for one and a few on the sales section of this forum. Never found one on eBay :/
So if i only make the D-select4 output in component and not VGA everything should be fine, right?
480p YUV to VGA is great as well. Just 15khz YUV to RGBs is problematic, since "Scart" usually carries composite sync, not split sync. Don't worry, you won't run into any problems.
Any idea where i might find one?
Yahoo Japan and using a proxy to buy one. The yen's high right now, but they are not this expensive. Maybe 12.000yen.
The XSelect removes almost all noise from the PS2 component signal, and the quality of PS2 480p transcoding paired with the XRGB is shockingly fantastic.
Gamecube is decent, haven't tried an Xbox yet, mine decided to break.
i got a problem updating the firmware on my xrgb3.
i conected the xrgb to the pc, a message pops up and tells me new hardware found.
next popup says something like unrecognized hardware is now ready to use.
so i start the update tool, but the update button is greyed out. so i try everything again
on a diffrent usb port with the same result. i tried my brothers pc but still the same
result.
the xrgb itself works fine, i dont know what im doing wrong.
has anyone else had this problem?
I had problems updating the firmware once and it turned out to be the USB cable. I don't remember if it happened like you describe it but it might be worth checking out.