Nintendo 64 RGB Blur fixing

[Guspaz]

I flashed my NESRGB to install the FBX palette, it was really easy. Didn't need to do any soldering, didn't have to override the driver signature.

I simply used the pinout on the FBX page for the NESRGB to the USB blaster, and used the little pin wires that had come with my raspberry pi kit. The JTAG vias on the NESRGB are plated, so I just stuck one end of the wire pins into the connector on the end of the USB blaster's ribbon cable, placed the other end of the pins in the JTAG vias, and applied light pressure to keep the pins diagonal in the vias and in contact. Then I did the firmware flash, and it was very quick.

The N64RGB does not appear to have JTAG vias, only JTAG pads, so soldering is likely to be more reliable, by cutting up the USB blaster ribbon cable and soldering the wires to the N64RGB. It might still be possible to do it without soldering (a bit of kapton tape to help hold the wires on the pad might help), but there'd probably be an increased risk of failure.

[borti4938]

What does 15-bit color mode do?

It removes the two LSBs of each color channel and outputs a zero instead. Hence, you just have 5 bits for each color left (15bit in total) instead of 7 bits.
As far as I know, the N64 uses these bits to introduce a bit of noise over the picture. This mode removes this noise.
(I'm not 100% sure as I cannot find the reference where I've read this anymore. So just try it out...)

[tjstogy]

Borti you're a genius. Does this mean we can also reset from the controller for use with an everdrive?

Well, using the PIC is not a bad idea. However, you have to change the code a bit to have the opportunity to output low on both pins (6 and 7) as it is not used at the moment.

However - back to the new firmware:
As my heuristic guess implementation failed I decided to do something different. I end up with the controller for switching the de-blur in 240p on and off (default on) as well as the 15bit mode (default off). One can use (d-pad ri + L + R + C ri) to toggle de-blur on and off and (d-pad le + L + R + C le) to toggle the 15bit mode. The defaults are set on each power cycle.

To use the IGR one has to connect pin 100 of the CPLD (pad A) with the communication wire of controller 1. The is the middle pin on the ctrl. port or on most consoles pin 16 of the PIF-NUS.

At my latest test yesterday (viletims board v1.0) the controller switch worked. However, due to the lack of time I can only do short tests. If someone found a game / a certain situation where the IGR does not work or toggle de-blur / 15bit mode without pressing the given button combination or any other strange behaviors, please report this to me (with as much information as possible, such that I can hopefully reproduce it).

Pin 99 of the CPLD (pad M) is currently unused. But I planned to implement a reset there. Yesterday it didn't work - I hope it was just a bad solder joint or something like that

BTW:
I have connected yesterday my testing N64 directly to the TV (without any scaler in between) and for me it seems that the picture in the 15bit mode is less noisy (as expected). Will further test it with some other games and will put it probably as the default in future releases.

[borti4938]

Yes, this is exactly what it meant

I pushed the update to GitHub. (Link to the update)
The reset is initiated by pressing A + B + D-pad down + D-pad right + L + R together.
Pin 99 (which is pad M at viletims board v1.2) OR pin 1 (easier access on older boards) has to be connected to pin 27 of the PIF-NUS, additionally.

[tjstogy]

Amazing work yet again. So this is a firmware update for tims board, not a separate board? Also does the deblur function now work on the current board revision 1.2 with this update?

On a side note, how someone like you does all of this with no financial interest boggles my mind. Someone at least buy this man a beer.

Yes, this is exactly what it meant

I pushed the update to GitHub. (Link to the update)
The reset is initiated by pressing A + B + D-pad down + D-pad right + L + R together.
Pin 99 (which is pad M at viletims board v1.2) OR pin 1 (easier access on older boards) has to be connected to pin 27 of the PIF-NUS, additionally.

[zeruel85]

Yes, this is exactly what it meant

I pushed the update to GitHub. (Link to the update)
The reset is initiated by pressing A + B + D-pad down + D-pad right + L + R together.
Pin 99 (which is pad M at viletims board v1.2) OR pin 1 (easier access on older boards) has to be connected to pin 27 of the PIF-NUS, additionally.

I have lifted pin 27 of the PIF-NUS, for the OC mod. How should I proceed? I suppose that I have to solder pin 1/99 to pin 27 (NOT pad 27), is that right?

Thanks for all your efforts, you're great.

[borti4938]

So this is a firmware update for tims board, not a separate board? Also does the deblur function now work on the current board revision 1.2 with this update?

Firmware is compatible with all of viletims commercial RGB boards, i.e. v1.0, v1.1 and v1.2.

I have lifted pin 27 of the PIF-NUS, for the OC mod. How should I proceed? I suppose that I have to solder pin 1/99 to pin 27 (NOT pad 27), is that right?

Thanks for all your efforts, you're great.

It doesn't matter. You can use one of both options. If I were you I would use the pin 27 (or the pin 5 of the PIC12F629) because it should be easier to solder.

Amazing work yet again. [...] On a side note, how someone like you does all of this with no financial interest boggles my mind. Someone at least buy this man a beer.

Thank you (in advance in case you haven't tested it yet)!
I just have fun with my hobby

[bobrocks95]

So, to summarize for anyone using Tim's board who wants this firmware on it:

-For de-blur/15-bit mode (D-Pad Right + L + R + C Right and D-Pad Left + L + R + C Left, respectively) solder pad A (or CPLD pin 100 on older boards) to pin 16 of the PIF-NUS or middle pin on controller port.
-For controller resetting (A + B + D-Pad Down + D-Pad Right + L + R) solder pad M (pin 1) to pin 27 of the PIF-NUS.

Is that right? Does controller resetting also require the first wire?

What does 15-bit color mode do?

It removes the two LSBs of each color channel and outputs a zero instead. Hence, you just have 5 bits for each color left (15bit in total) instead of 7 bits.
As far as I know, the N64 uses these bits to introduce a bit of noise over the picture. This mode removes this noise.
(I'm not 100% sure as I cannot find the reference where I've read this anymore. So just try it out...)

Ah, cool. It probably won't make much of a difference but it's another improvement to try out!

Amazing work yet again. So this is a firmware update for tims board, not a separate board? Also does the deblur function now work on the current board revision 1.2 with this update?

It worked before, the earlier version Borti had up could be flashed to Tim's board a couple months ago if you wanted de-blur. It didn't have the controller switching though, and it may have been a hardware switch you had to solder on, though I'd need Borti to clarify on that one (might have been permanently on?).

[tjstogy]

Is there a US distributor for the N64-RGB boards yet?

[borti4938]

So, to summarize for anyone using Tim's board who wants this firmware on it:

-For de-blur/15-bit mode (D-Pad Right + L + R + C Right and D-Pad Left + L + R + C Left, respectively) solder pad A (or CPLD pin 100 on older boards) to pin 16 of the PIF-NUS or middle pin on controller port.
-For controller resetting (A + B + D-Pad Down + D-Pad Right + L + R) solder pad M (pin 1) to pin 27 of the PIF-NUS.

Is that right? Does controller resetting also require the first wire?

That's correct. For the reset feature you also need the first wire to read the controller.

What does 15-bit color mode do?

It removes the two LSBs of each color channel and outputs a zero instead. Hence, you just have 5 bits for each color left (15bit in total) instead of 7 bits.
As far as I know, the N64 uses these bits to introduce a bit of noise over the picture. This mode removes this noise.
(I'm not 100% sure as I cannot find the reference where I've read this anymore. So just try it out...)

Ah, cool. It probably won't make much of a difference but it's another improvement to try out!

Whoops - I have to revise myself. Actually, there was just a single game where 15bit results into a better picture. On all other games not! I'm sorry for that...!!! Just try out

Amazing work yet again. So this is a firmware update for tims board, not a separate board? Also does the deblur function now work on the current board revision 1.2 with this update?

It worked before, the earlier version Borti had up could be flashed to Tim's board a couple months ago if you wanted de-blur. It didn't have the controller switching though, and it may have been a hardware switch you had to solder on, though I'd need Borti to clarify on that one (might have been permanently on?).

Again correct. It worked before, too One just needed to have a switch for toggling on/off. Without the switch it was always on.

[Ikaruga11]

Thank you so much Borti! Does this only work on Tim's RGB Board?

[bobrocks95]

So should a soldering noob even attempt installing Tim's board on an MAV-NUS N64 with the new ribbon cable or should I not bother trying? I.e. will proper equipment be enough to make up for inexperience or should I just send the thing off to someone?

Thank you so much Borti! Does this only work on Tim's RGB Board?

Hmm, I'm not sure if there are any other boards that use a CPLD or FPGA out there? It looks the Otaku Store board might use one- I guess it could be modified to work, but I don't think their source code is public and you really wouldn't be saving any money with it...

Right now it's just for Tim's board I believe.

[Skips]

I tried the firmware today and all I can say is fucking fantastic. This system looks 10 times better with the blurring off.

[Ikaruga11]

I tried the firmware today and all I can say is fucking fantastic. This system looks 10 times better with the blurring off.

That's great to hear! I can't wait to try it out.

So once you get Tim's RGB Board installed on a Nintendo 64, how do you add the De-Blur function?

[borti4938]

How to update: http://etim.net.au/n64rgb/tech/

[Skips]

I have not tried a lot of games yet but I did notice that when the blurring is turned off Command & Conquer does this. Just a heads up so people know to wire the controller as Borti said since it seems some games don't like it off.

[tjstogy]

Skips what resolution is that game? Also can you post any pics of games where it works well? How's it look in goldeneye or ocarina of time?

I have not tried a lot of games yet but I did notice that when the blurring is turned off Command & Conquer does this. Just a heads up so people know to wire the controller as Borti said since it seems some games don't like it off.

[zeruel85]

I've just finished to work on my N64 and this new borti4938's firmware is working like a charm: IGR works great and it's beautiful resetting the console with the pad, just like the NESRGB-IGR or SuperCIC + uIGR!

I also tried de-blurring and 15bit toggling, they are also working really good. Well done borti4938!

I don't have too much time to try many games, if you want to make me do some tests, let me know.

I use N64RGB v1.1 and OSSC v1.3 for my test.

Installation images:

Spoiler

[bobrocks95]

Would love to see Paper Mario or Majora's Mask if you've got them!

To be clear on the Command & Conquer shots since I think I misread it the first time- that's when you turn on the de-blur feature right? As in the game wasn't using the blurring and now it's deleting picture data?

[Ikaruga11]

Would love to see Paper Mario or Majora's Mask if you've got them!

Also Pokemon Stadium 1/2

[tacoguy64]

Would love to see Paper Mario or Majora's Mask if you've got them!

Also Pokemon Stadium 1/2

Also Starfox 64, Perfect Dark, or Resident Evil 2.

[Skips]

Would love to see Paper Mario or Majora's Mask if you've got them!

To be clear on the Command & Conquer shots since I think I misread it the first time- that's when you turn on the de-blur feature right? As in the game wasn't using the blurring and now it's deleting picture data?

correct its when you turn on the de-blur.

[tjstogy]

Awesome do you have any before and after pictures of any games? Or anyone else ??

I've just finished to work on my N64 and this new borti4938's firmware is working like a charm: IGR works great and it's beautiful resetting the console with the pad, just like the NESRGB-IGR or SuperCIC + uIGR!

I also tried de-blurring and 15bit toggling, they are also working really good. Well done borti4938!

I don't have too much time to try many games, if you want to make me do some tests, let me know.

I use N64RGB v1.1 and OSSC v1.3 for my test.

Installation images:

Spoiler

[zeruel85]

Unfortunately I don't have a capture unit, so I'm gonna use my smartphone to take some screenshots, I hope that the differences between de-blur on/off will be visible (15bit color mode on/off are almost identical, IMHO), sorry for that.

ASAP I'll do it for all the games that you have requested.

[tjstogy]

Cant wait!

Unfortunately I don't have a capture unit, so I'm gonna use my smartphone to take some screenshots, I hope that the differences between de-blur on/off will be visible (15bit color mode on/off are almost identical, IMHO), sorry for that.

ASAP I'll do it for all the games that you have requested.

[andykara2003]

Same, looking forward seeing some images.

I would personally be very interested seeing the comparison on a sub 800 line CRT. To me, The N64's 3D graphics look weird on a high TVL display.

[Ikaruga11]

The N64's 3D graphics look weird on a high TVL display.

How so?

[andykara2003]

It might be just me but I find strong scanlines are more suited to 2D graphics than 1st gen 3D. The clearly delineated makeup of sprites and 2D artwork are 'broken up' cleanly by the thick scanlines and look good. I feel 1st gen 3D stuff on my BVM looks as if you're looking at a 3D world through a horizontal grid - like looking through Venetian blinds.

For me the N64's 3D graphics need to 'come together' more as a cohesive image and so benefits more from the mellower scanlines of a display that has more scanline bloom.

[Ikaruga11]

It might be just me but I find strong scanlines are more suited to 2D graphics than 1st gen 3D. The clearly delineated makeup of sprites and 2D artwork are 'broken up' cleanly by the thick scanlines and look good. I feel 1st gen 3D stuff on my BVM looks as if you're looking at a 3D world through a horizontal grid - like looking through Venetian blinds.

For me the N64's 3D graphics need to 'come together' more as a cohesive image and so benefits more from the mellower scanlines of a display that has more scanline bloom.

Makes sense. Thick black scanlines would look ugly on 3D games, even on first gen 3D like the Nintendo 64. Another issue is the lack of consistency. Most N64 games are 240p, which will show the thick black scanlines. While all of the 480i N64 games will not show scanlines. Even phonedork says he prefers thinner scanlines for N64 games.

[cfx]

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