XRGB-3

[RGB32E]

The PC10 and VS PPUs are socketed on their respective PCBs.

I found it to be a real bi*ch to desolder the NES PPU, even with a desoldering tool... but then again, I should've cleaned it out before starting...

I tried Moosman's RGB amp, and even after checking my work, the PQ was crap...

[ronaldo_76]

hello,

first sorry my english is not the best.
I have problems with the mode B1 mode. If I have the firmware 2.07 does the B1 Mode works great.(only the menuscreen is not clean)
if i have firmware 2.12 (jap or eng) installed. i only become a black screen on my sony lcd. i have connected the xrgb with a vga cable to my tv.

i use the follow consoles. N64, SNES, MD all modded and connected with an EU-->JAP scart cable.

why work the 2.07 firmware but not the 2.12? i hope you guys can help me?

ronaldo

[Konsolkongen]

Maybe its because you didn't reset the XRGB-3 after updating it. When in standby press and hold Menu + OK and press Power to turn it on. The word "Reset" should appear in the menu.

[ronaldo_76]

Maybe its because you didn't reset the XRGB-3 after updating it. When in standby press and hold Menu + OK and press Power to turn it on. The word "Reset" should appear in the menu.

no thats not the problem. i have reset the unit, and then i'm in B0 Mode. after switching to B1 i powered the xrgb-3 off. and turn it back on. but the screen is black. no signal with firmware 2.12

the same progress with firmware 2.07 works!
the firmware 2.12 not work with B1.

[Fudoh]

Do you have an active source selected ? I often don't get a picture as well as long as no active source signal is selected.

[ronaldo_76]

Do you have an active source selected ? I often don't get a picture as well as long as no active source signal is selected.

yes sure i have running my snes.

i have test it with a 19' tft monitor and i become a signal. on my monitor it work with the firmware 2.12 but i don't become a signal on my "sony kdl w 2000"

with firmware 2.07 --> B1 Mode --> Works on my Sony LCD
with firmware 2.12 or 2.12e -- > B1 Mode --> No Signal on my Sony LCD but a different TFT Monitor work? what is that?

thanks to all

[RGB32E]

I'd be curious to see what old school games would look like on one of the new Sony PVM-740 monitors:
http://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/product-PVM740/



MSRP is $3,850 USD!!!

[Konsolkongen]

Why are they so expensive? It was my understanding that OLED's would eventually be cheaper to produce than LCD and Plasma? I'm guessing that its just a temporary thing until they become much more common. I would kill for a 40" OLED

[Fudoh]

The price isn't caused by OLED technology (or only in parts). Production monitors with HD-SDI have always been this expensive. Panasonic's 17" HD-SDI display (and that's classic LCD) is priced at over 3000 Euro as well.

[Konsolkongen]

Oh. I have no idea what SDI is but i've seen hifi geeks tripping about it on forums

Anyways, hopefully i'll have a Neo Geo MV-4 board up and running later tonight. I remember that some said that they had dropouts when using theirs on the XRGB-3. I'll post my results here later

[RGB32E]

My 1 slot MVS works great in B0 mode, though I seem to recall that I couldn't get a stable picture in B1. I've tried my MVS connected to both the GAME and D2 inputs and prefer using D2. I haven't tried massaging the sync from the MVS yet...

[Konsolkongen]

What do you mean "massaging"? I didn't get it up and running tonight. Been soldering all week on my stick and now this. I needed a break and i'd rather not get cancer from inhaling the smoke ;p

Hopefully i'll be pwning in Neo Turf Masters and League Bowling this time tomorrow

[EatenByGrues]

So I finally took the plunge and ordered an XRGB-3, something I have been debating for a while. Anyway a while back I bought SNES/N64/Gamecube RGB Scart connector and a Saturn one. The problem is I have no idea if these are japanese or euroscart connectors. I bought them from the now defunct ZTNetStore. They were just labeled as 'RGB Scart'. How can I verify which type of cable these are? I can pick up a multimeter if need be. Or are these crap cables and I'm just better off ordering higher quality ones?

[gundamalpha]

My 1 slot MVS works great in B0 mode, though I seem to recall that I couldn't get a stable picture in B1. I've tried my MVS connected to both the GAME and D2 inputs and prefer using D2. I haven't tried massaging the sync from the MVS yet...

I had this problem when connected to my LCD monitors as well, but the problem got away with my plasma TV and CRT monitors.

[RGB32E]

So I finally took the plunge and ordered an XRGB-3, something I have been debating for a while. Anyway a while back I bought SNES/N64/Gamecube RGB Scart connector and a Saturn one. The problem is I have no idea if these are japanese or euroscart connectors. I bought them from the now defunct ZTNetStore. They were just labeled as 'RGB Scart'. How can I verify which type of cable these are? I can pick up a multimeter if need be. Or are these crap cables and I'm just better off ordering higher quality ones?

To check the wiring of your cables, just open the scart plug hood! You can do this by unscrewing the nut that holds the scart hood together, open the hood (it's like a clam shell), and check where wires are connected. Color of the wire dielectric might not match the signals, but the differences between SCART and Japanese RGB are distinct:

JP21 Pinout:
http://micomsoft.co.jp/xrgb-3_spec.htm

SCART:


Verify the wiring before using your cables before using them on the XRGB-3. More than likely you'll need to have your cables rewired on the 21 PIN connector.

[Konsolkongen]

So i got the Neo Geo up and running. Well partially that is. I still can't control anything as my arcadestick is in pieces and will be until early next week and i don't have sound yet. Picture is awesome and much better than i thought possible when making the cable from scratch using cheap wires. It works perfectly with LowPassFilter off too

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e236/ ... 1271460016

Oh yeah i accidentally reversed the Blue and Green wires :p

But the problem is that i can't get a picture at all in B1 mode Tried with V-sync on and off but it made no difference. Even worse is that i can only get a picture in B0 mode when the V-sync option is off (much like my Master System Converter problems).

Someone mentioned a while ago that he added a cap to the Sync line on his MegaDrive to prevent blackouts. I tried adding one but it didn't help anything. Picture is still great though...

Could the reversed colors have anything to do with it not showing a picture in B1 mode? This is really frustrating that it will only work in laggy B0 mode and with stuttering picture as i can't turn the V-sync option on

EDIT: Corrected the color wires and now i have sound too. The problem still remains

[gundamalpha]

So i got the Neo Geo up and running. Well partially that is. I still can't control anything as my arcadestick is in pieces and will be until early next week and i don't have sound yet. Picture is awesome and much better than i thought possible when making the cable from scratch using cheap wires. It works perfectly with LowPassFilter off too

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e236/ ... 1271460016

Oh yeah i accidentally reversed the Blue and Green wires :p

But the problem is that i can't get a picture at all in B1 mode Tried with V-sync on and off but it made no difference. Even worse is that i can only get a picture in B0 mode when the V-sync option is off (much like my Master System Converter problems).

Someone mentioned a while ago that he added a cap to the Sync line on his MegaDrive to prevent blackouts. I tried adding one but it didn't help anything. Picture is still great though...

Could the reversed colors have anything to do with it not showing a picture in B1 mode? This is really frustrating that it will only work in laggy B0 mode and with stuttering picture as i can't turn the V-sync option on

EDIT: Corrected the color wires and now i have sound too. The problem still remains

May I know what panel are you using for display? From my own experience only LCD monitors (no LCD TV though) gave me that problem.

[Konsolkongen]

Could it be the screen? I'm using a Sony KDL40W4000.

[ZOM]

The price isn't caused by OLED technology (or only in parts). Production monitors with HD-SDI have always been this expensive. Panasonic's 17" HD-SDI display (and that's classic LCD) is priced at over 3000 Euro as well.

You find that expensive?
I tell you I'm in the wrong country for this stuff; a 17 inch HD LCD PVM costs 12'000 francs around these parts.
I haven't checked the Panasonic's price tag yet tho.

[Konsolkongen]

I tried connecting the XRGB-3 directly to my tv instead of using my VGA to HDMI converter. Now it works with scanlines, and Master System too. I guess the converter was to blame.

Unfortunately the picture is still not usable. It's very unstable at the top of the screen and several vertical lines in the image appears to be shaky as well. Goddammit i'm starting to hate my tv

Any suggestions? I tried using the Extron F190 but it didn't make a difference no matter what setting i used.

[RGB32E]

I tried connecting the XRGB-3 directly to my tv instead of using my VGA to HDMI converter. Now it works with scanlines, and Master System too. I guess the converter was to blame.

Unfortunately the picture is still not usable. It's very unstable at the top of the screen and several vertical lines in the image appears to be shaky as well. Goddammit i'm starting to hate my tv

Any suggestions? I tried using the Extron F190 but it didn't make a difference no matter what setting i used.

Which RGB input are you using? What AFC levels have you tried? If you're using the D2 input, have you tried switching between the RGBHV and RGBC settings?

[Konsolkongen]

Haven't tried switching to RGBHV on the D2 input. Are you sure that will even give a picture?

Unfortunately i can't test it for a few days. The Neo Geo is in pieces atm and if the weather is good enough tomorrow i'm gonna paint the aluminum shielding

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e236/ ... 1271713090

[Konsolkongen]

Switching to RGBHV only gave a very unstable picture. I'm hoping these problems will be resolved when i get a Gefen VGA to DVI scaler

[RGB32E]

I've finally decided to take action to fix the RGB output from the Sega Saturn. As many of you have noticed, the Sega Saturn's RGB output typically isn't the greatest when using on the XRGB-3 - Jail bars, and interference. Even though I've been able to tame this problem for a few games (e.g. RSG), it isn't an end solution to the problem, just a work around.

I've noticed that the RGB output quality varies from SS to SS. Different revisions used different RGB encoders, and different capacitors (brand/quality). Depending upon the health of the capacitors, the video signal quality can varry. Hence, my quest is to get high quality RGB output (and analog audio) from any given model 2 unit by:

-Full EL Cap replacement for RGB encoder circuit (some of the 220uf RGB output caps had buldges at the top of the casing)
-Remove FB/Caps on all used outputs
-Replace RGB Encoder (Fujitsu MB3516A -> Sony CXA2075)
-Build Hex buffer circuit to get a clean composite sync
Example of usage - from a Sanwa Jamma adapter:

-Full EL Cap replacement for audio DAC circuit (Burr Brown PCM1710U) with Elna brand "Silk" capacitors
http://www.elna.co.jp/en/capacitor/alum ... /rfs_e.pdf

● ELNA developed new raw material for the separate paper which use a silk fibers.
Therefore, this capacitor can give you high grade sound for your audio design.
● Due to the silk fiber's pliability, the capacitor makes a dream of the high quality
sound.
For examples ;
● To relieve the music's vibration energy.
● To decrease the peak feeling sound at high compass and rough quality sound at
middle compass.
● To increase massive sound at low compass.

Anyways, I have some of the parts (RGB Encoder, and some of the caps), and am waiting for the rest to arrive.

Here's some pics of the part removal in progress:

[RGB32E]

Switching to RGBHV only gave a very unstable picture. I'm hoping these problems will be resolved when i get a Gefen VGA to DVI scaler

Yeah, I tested again last night and do not get a picture with D2->RGBHV in B1 mode, but this works great for B0 mode! Yeah, without some sort of sync processing (I'll try the hex buffer I'm building for the saturn work). In B1, no AFC level produces a stable image with the MVS.

Hmm... perhaps the GAME input is better (from the wiki):
NTSC AFC : MANUAL / AFC level : 5
RGB-21 INPUT termination : 220 OHM

I certainly had a much noisier picture using Game instead of D2 when I tested arcade PCBs... Perhaps the 220 ohm setting on the Game input also drops the sync voltage as well? So, perhaps a 2.2k ohm resistor in series on the MVS csync signal might help? B0 works without problems...

[Fudoh]

I've finally decided to take action to fix the RGB output from the Sega Saturn.

looking very much forward to the results! Would be amazing to be able to use my "round button" Saturns on the XRGB without any issues...

[Konsolkongen]

I certainly had a much noisier picture using Game instead of D2 when I tested arcade PCBs... Perhaps the 220 ohm setting on the Game input also drops the sync voltage as well? So, perhaps a 2.2k ohm resistor in series on the MVS csync signal might help? B0 works without problems...

I don't see any difference in using the D2 in or the Game in port I'm guessing the 2.2k ohm resistor would provide a better picture (for you at least) but not solve my sync problem, right?

[RGB32E]

I don't see any difference in using the D2 in or the Game in port I'm guessing the 2.2k ohm resistor would provide a better picture (for you at least) but not solve my sync problem, right?

I noticed a PQ difference between the two inputs with a number of arcade PCBs. However, I wasn't using resistors on R, G, and B when connecting to the Game input (using 220 ohm setting instead). Perhaps I'd get better PQ on the Game input if I used fixed resistors instead of the XRGB-3 functionality.

The 2.2k ohm resistor on sync is an idea from the Sanwa Jamma adapter pictured above. I've also noticed that the Sega Saturn also has a 2.2k ohm resistor in series followed by a .1uf cap to ground before connecting to the sync input on the RGB encoder. Hence, if the same parts were added to the sync before reaching the XRGB-3, the sync problem in B1 might be solved. It's something I'll try once I get the 2.2k ohm resistors...

[Konsolkongen]

Ok thank you very much. I think i'll go buy a 2.2ohm resistor tomorrow then

Btw should anyone need it here is how to tap the RGB and sync lines from a MVS 4-slot:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e236/ ... 1271960268

(I used the guide to consolizing a 2-slot on jamma-nation-x.com to find these soldering points)

[RGB32E]

I received all of the parts earlier, including 2.2k ohm resistors!