TV RGB mod thread

[fandangos]

Wow, nice! I have a few BVMs here that I bet could get a better image with it.

Risky stuff to begin with, and ten times more so for Trinitron tubes, i hear. How do you know they need restoring though?

Because the image of the BVMs suck compared to my PVM 2950q, or my Sony FV310 or even my Philips Dwide that as far as all consumer CRT tvs I tested has the best PQ.

I have 3 BVM-20G1U and all have a "weak" image, the best way to describe it is if you turn contrast to the minimum on a regular CRT, that's how they look like. According to the menu, one is 40k hours, another 50k and the other 60k hours.

I tried my best to calibrate those but they don't came any closer to my PVM, that has the best picture I ever seen in my life.

The only time the picture gets good it starts triggering the overload light and turn itself off. I had to use those 75ohm terminator BNC adapters to avoid this but again, a lifeless picture.

[BobWoggle]

Thank you for the info. Are you using '104' 0.1uF capacitors?

I am, yes.

[buttersoft]

Yep, i'll pay those reasons. If you do get hold of a rejuvenator, remember to follow the instructions carefully and make sure to test the tubes throughly with it first, before going anywhere near any rejuv or even restore functions. If the readings show the tubes do look like they could use some love, don't get greedy. Always use the lowest settings first. And as soon as the readings are in the green/good zone, stop. If you push too far there's no warning, the tubes will just die like falling off a cliff.

That's notes for general rejuvenation, and i hear Trinitrons are ten times more sensitive than that. There's all sorts of stuff to work out with pin allocations and voltages first, of course. But if the sets aren't useable as they are, it *might* be worth looking into. Rejuvenating is pretty drastic, and works best with tubes that have been left alone for 20+ years and don't actually have worn cathodes, just some oxidisation. For your tubes, if it does work you'll get a few good years out of them, mb, but they'll fade back to where they are now much faster than the first time.

Wow, nice! I have a few BVMs here that I bet could get a better image with it.

Risky stuff to begin with, and ten times more so for Trinitron tubes, i hear. How do you know they need restoring though?

Because the image of the BVMs suck compared to my PVM 2950q, or my Sony FV310 or even my Philips Dwide that as far as all consumer CRT tvs I tested has the best PQ.

I have 3 BVM-20G1U and all have a "weak" image, the best way to describe it is if you turn contrast to the minimum on a regular CRT, that's how they look like. According to the menu, one is 40k hours, another 50k and the other 60k hours.

I tried my best to calibrate those but they don't came any closer to my PVM, that has the best picture I ever seen in my life.

The only time the picture gets good it starts triggering the overload light and turn itself off. I had to use those 75ohm terminator BNC adapters to avoid this but again, a lifeless picture.

[fandangos]

I know this thread isn't about it but it's worth shooting this question.

I got a Sony KV310 but the image is shifted to the left with everything but specially component.
Tried the PS2 and I can get the left side entire on screen but the right side has a 2 cm black bar.

Tried the service menu but the HPOS is at 0 and if I turn it up it will shift the image further to the left.

So what IC controls the position on the screen? the CXA?
If I remember someone commenting here, there's a pin that is controlled by voltage, more voltage to the right, less voltage to the left or something like this.
So this could be a faulty capacitor?
What pin should I look for?

[Syntax]

It's called l2fil on a cxa chip. It also controls the horizontal something something which is pretty much a safety against popping the tube from the wrong frequency ( I think, for lack of better understanding)

Basically what you need to do is put a pot with 5v one side ground the other and send the middle leg to l2fil, I'm not sure if before or after the cap.

DO NOT LET L2FIL FLOAT! YOUR TUBE WILL POP.

DO all this at your own risk. I killed a really nice set playing with this and figured out what I'd done wrong too late.
I'm still not 100% on the idea but when I get a shitty set I'll have more of a play.

[fandangos]

It's called l2fil on a cxa chip. It also controls the horizontal something something which is pretty much a safety against popping the tube from the wrong frequency ( I think, for lack of better understanding)

Basically what you need to do is put a pot with 5v one side ground the other and send the middle leg to l2fil, I'm not sure if before or after the cap.

DO NOT LET L2FIL FLOAT! YOUR TUBE WILL POP.

DO all this at your own risk. I killed a really nice set playing with this and figured out what I'd done wrong too late.
I'm still not 100% on the idea but when I get a shitty set I'll have more of a play.

If I use 3.3v that would be safer?
Also the higher the Pot the safer it gets, right? Using a 10k would be safer?

and what about removing some resistor in the line of l2fil and placing a pot there instead?

And what exactly did you do wrong there? Short the pot?

[Syntax]

I cut the pin while the set was running, letting it "Float"

It should always be grounded via a capacitor or the horizonatal runs off and pops the tube in about 1 second.

3.3 v isn't safer or worse, and the larger pot just gives more resolution.


Depending on what the value of the resistor is you may be able to modify it but im pretty sure the sets ive worked on only had the pin grounded via a ceramic cap.

If I were to do it all over again id wire 5v and ground to a 10k pot and the middle leg directly to the l2fil pin, with the pot turned mostly towards the ground pin but not all the way. then turn to suit. You can put 1k resistors on each outside leg of the pot for a safety barrier, then it will never short to ground or 5v, you always have that 1k there at full rotation either way.
You don't want to short it to ground but from experience that wont kill the set, the big no no is cutting that pin and just leaving it.

[lukilla]

I got two nib JVC´s and they were pretty simple to mod. The schematics ask for 4.5v osd but take 0.7v no problem, even the osd is usable without being connected lol (at least using a solid color background image). Put the vga lines on the legs of the caps and it got a small box right away, 5v from the tuner to a jumper directed to the blanking, full screen no problem







More pictures: https://imgur.com/a/0OY0u

[infinest]

Hello there!
I've been recommended to register and ask here about getting RGB into my monitor.
This is the monitor I've got. It's a JVC TM-90PSN

Spoiler

For inputs it only really has composite but also one RGB TTL (digital RGB) port. Sadly no analog RGB.

Spoiler

I've already taken a look at the schematics and my best bet would be feeding my own signals into the CRT socket board.

Spoiler

As you can see the analog composite signal at the end goes into the CRT board as a color difference signal so I'd somehow have to convert my RGB to Luma, Green - Luma (G-Y), Red - Luma (R-Y), Blue - Luma (B-Y). Unfortunately I don't really know how to pull this off and I couldn't find good solutions for this online.

The RGB inputs on the bottom of the CRT board are coming directly from the digital RGB port so I doubt that could be used, right?

Spoiler

And here are the complete schematics
https://mega.nz/#!34UQVaRL!r_NtWO_WvBVM ... CXluLnmtK4

I'd really appreciate if someone with more knowledge could point me in the right direction.

[MarkOZLAD]

Seeing as we've fallen off the front page of the Hardware forum list I thought I'd share some photos of my most recent mod, a Samsung CL29K40M.







Service manual here

All Images Here

If you're any kind of modder you should be able to work out how I did it.

...In fact there were two ways I could've modded this set and could've had dual RGB inputs if I wanted to. I did it both ways but finally chose this method shown in the photos.

Went the extra step and implemented the Scart Pin 8 functionality too.

[viletim]

Hello there!
I've been recommended to register and ask here about getting RGB into my monitor.
This is the monitor I've got. It's a JVC TM-90PSN

You cannot easily mod this TV for analog RGB. It's missing an RGB clamp circuit. Stick with more modern sets 1995+.

[MarkOZLAD]

Snip out of depth reply.

[Syntax]

Hello there!
I've been recommended to register and ask here about getting RGB into my monitor.
This is the monitor I've got. It's a JVC TM-90PSN

You cannot easily mod this TV for analog RGB. It's missing an RGB clamp circuit. Stick with more modern sets 1995+.

I just drove to the blue mountains for one of these sets ffs... didn't realise it was digital RGB only.

Composite looks nice tho...

[evilsim]

I'd somehow have to convert my RGB to Luma, Green - Luma (G-Y), Red - Luma (R-Y), Blue - Luma (B-Y). Unfortunately I don't really know how to pull this off and I couldn't find good solutions for this online.

I've seen a lot of people use the early SNES RGB AMP BA6592F for such a task, except I dont think it does G-Y, just outputs Y. I wanted to give it a go as I have a few junk SNES boards but didn't get around to it yet. You can even get these chips from ebay etc. IF this is the solution anyway. Goodluck with it, it's a pretty cool looking TV

[infinest]

Hello there!
I've been recommended to register and ask here about getting RGB into my monitor.
This is the monitor I've got. It's a JVC TM-90PSN

You cannot easily mod this TV for analog RGB. It's missing an RGB clamp circuit. Stick with more modern sets 1995+.

Thank you very much for your answer.
How about S-Video? I've been told that that would be more feasible.

[MarkOZLAD]

Thank you very much for your answer.
How about S-Video? I've been told that that would be more feasible.

I’m interested in whether amplified analog RGB could be fed here.

https://klovimg.com/image/3xLZg

[glaysonmestre]

Someone help me I bought a GBS-8100 converter card I tried to connect the pc in the neckboard did not work Look at the pictures and the video I made If someone can help me, I thank them

https://youtu.be/_Wz3t39wRoI

[Syntax]

I'm not sure how you expect anyone to help when you haven't even given us the model of your tv set.

Your pumping unamplified cga directly to the neckboard, and it looks like no sync either.

[evilsim]

AKAI CT-2020A (20" with LG tube) Jungle link is here, it's a Panasonic AN5159K http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet- ... 5195K.html
This TV has a blanked out SCART port on the back -- this is why I bought it. My suspicions were correct.
Mainboard has fully capped SCART header just with no SCART female socket soldered to it.

RGB modding was very easy since it has a SCART header in place.
pin 10 on jungle is YS (fast blanking) anything over 1v
pin 11,12,13 are R G B
sync seems to want to only be fed in via AV1, not via the pin 20 of the SCART header

Picture is pretty decent, TV was only $15 Pity its only mono sound, it has two speakers too..

[glaysonmestre]

lg_rp_29fa35a_cp_29k35a I do not understand why it does not work I turned on two televisions I got the same result on the two tvs, in my opinion the models do not make a difference since I'm calling directly on the neckboard using the mesh as ground and the TV sync look video pleas https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wz3t39wRoI

[Syntax]

Why the hell are you trying to feed unamplified cga directly to the neckboard when your LG tv sets HAVE A SCART PLUG!?!?

Seriously go take a look at the service manual and do your mod correctly.

EDIT**

My bad, your TVs actually have 2 scart plugs each!

[MarkOZLAD]

glaysonmestre

Please de-solder those wires from the neckboard.

These TVs have a much better way of being fed RGB. If you check the TV schematic and inspect the chassis you will find two hidden headers for Scart ports. One of these, JK201 is a full scart port that is designed to accept RGB. There will currently be an AV port on top of this.

The correct way to mod this TV is to remove the AV port, solder in a 90 degree angled Scart port and then inspect the chassis for missing parts and jumpers to complete the R/G/B/FB circuits from the scart port to the Jungle chip (IC11 VCT49xyI) RIN/GIN/BIN/FBIN. Once you have done this you should be able to enable the scart option in the service menu.

The scart port itself is optional, you could instead wire your RGB lines directly to the solder points on the scart header or the PIP jumpers.

Either way, do some research!

[fandangos]

I'm considering modding my Sony KV-29FV305 with chassis BA-5D.
The jungle IC is a CXA2154AS.

I want to clear a few things to avoid killing this awesome tv set.



I have marked in green the points that I believe should be used for this mod.
I don't remember who commented here that you can't use the main GND for grounding the scart female plug that you need to use digital gnd or something?
So I marked pin number 2 as a GND possibility. Can I use this as GND for my mod?

Also, the best way to go into those RGB pins 41, 42, 43 is to remove the 0.01 cap before it and solder directly into the pad that is wired towards the IC, correct?

And the YS (fast blaking), is that pin 44? Labeled VCC1? I'm considering using the 10k pot for injecting voltage for blanking but do I need to lift this pin from the circuit?
And if I do lift it, the switch will have 2 states:
My 10k pot on one of the switches pin and the other should have the entire circuit before the pin, correct?

This VVC1 line is 9v, is it ok to use it as my source for blanking feeding my 10k pot?

And finally, I can't find that L2Fill that should fix my horizontal position problem. Is it labeled differently in this CXA IC?

[evilsim]

And the YS (fast blaking), is that pin 44? Labeled VCC1?

Looks to me like its 40 to try and get the FB going, labelled YS2.
VCC1 is a power rail (Double letters (cc) refer to power supply voltages)

[Pikkon]

My set shares the same BA-5D chassis.
For the blanking pin you don't need a pot as your set should have a diode in place so just run 5v from your set or scart and keep the pin in circuit.

As for the rgb pins it's really up to you,what I did was cut the traces.

[Syntax]

I don't remember who commented here that you can't use the main GND for grounding the scart female plug that you need to use digital gnd or something?
So I marked pin number 2 as a GND possibility. Can I use this as GND for my mod?

Get your multimeter and do a continuity test between pin 2 and some main ground points on the chassis.
Pretty much every time it will be linked.

Sometimes audio grounds are separated from video but that's a separate issue really.


What the deal with this sets PIP? Not RGB??

[infinest]

I’m interested in whether amplified analog RGB could be fed here.

https://klovimg.com/image/3xLZg

Somebody else already suggested that to me on another site so I've already went ahead and tried that.
Didn't yield a result though. Nothing displayed whatsoever.

[MarkOZLAD]

I’m interested in whether amplified analog RGB could be fed here.

https://klovimg.com/image/3xLZg

Somebody else already suggested that to me on another site so I've already went ahead and tried that.
Didn't yield a result though. Nothing displayed whatsoever.

Were you feeding the TV sync at the same time?

[tiff_lee]

Hey Syntax being an Aussie you may be able to answer this... I just picked a Sony Trinitron (Aus model KD-32DX51AUS) and the scart port is YUV enabled and not RGB enabled as per the UK model (KD-32DX51U) just wondering if you had any idea why this was? particular region requirement? Personally I have no idea as i'm a Pom!

[evilsim]

Hey Syntax being an Aussie you may be able to answer this... I just picked a Sony Trinitron (Aus model KD-32DX51AUS) and the scart port is YUV enabled and not RGB enabled as per the UK model (KD-32DX51U) just wondering if you had any idea why this was? particular region requirement? Personally I have no idea as i'm a Pom!

go into the service menu and change it. you need to dig deep to find it. i think the option is YUV switch or YUV enable and there is another one nearby for RGB enable or disable, both of those options seem to change the same thing (YUV <-> RGB over the SCART port)
The reason for this is, aussies never needed RGB over SCART, nothing sold here ever used it really - only YUV over RGB, thats why all our YUV SCART ports are YUV enabled (mostly anyway)