XRGB-mini Framemeister

[Seraphic]

is is the XRGBmini folder that goes into the base directory of the mini sd card? I can't find the old 1.04 instructions anymore =S

Yes

try holding the "force 480p" button on the remote for a few seconds. I up- and downgraded 5 times the day before yesterday. No problems whatsoever.

Both firmwares 1.03E and the new 1.05 game me a lot of trouble so I went back to 1.04E and all is well. It seems 1.05 is a beta firmware anyway, so I will stay away from it until the final release. Fudoh, what was the process you used to upgarde to 1.05? I did unplug mini, insert memory stick, plug in mini, wait until flash is complete, remove memory stick, turn on mini.

[Konsolkongen]

That's cool! I'm still using the 2 NJM amp in my RGB-NES and haven't experienced dropouts. I've been tempted to build a second RGB-NES (been sitting on a second PPU for a while) and will likely go with a THS for that one. I haven't had any issues with dropouts using 2 NJMs with the XRGB-3 or mini though. Also, I'll be testing out the Don Lancaster 4049 sync buffer tomorrow! So, you might be able to just replace the NJM with a 4049 circuit for full TTL/CMOS level CSYNC.

0.3Vp-p Csync // CVideo level sync (NJM?)
5.0Vp-p Csync // Full TTL/CMOS level (4049)

Please let me know how that turned out. At the moment I have a complete NJM amp (2x NJM's) wired up just for sync. I completed this amp a long time ago and I just couldn't be bothered to reduce the size, so this is what it looks like at the moment



Hopefully just a temporary solution, but for now it works

Another thing. Because the NES has an all white veritcal line in the left side of the image I thought it would be best to run the NES' RGB through an Extron interface where I could shift the image left. Unfortunately my RGB190 doesn't like the RGB from the NES at all, so it didn't work. Doesn't work with the MegaDrive either, but works fine with the Neo Geo CD for some reason...

Have any of you tried using the H_Pos option on the Mini? This should solve my problem, but when I shift the image left the Mini adds some strange white lines on the right side of the image!? This is not a NES issue as it happens with all sources I have tried. Really hope they can fix this so I don't get burn-in from that white stripe

For the time being I can use the H_Width to widen the image a little bit. Setting this to 33 removes the white line completely, but also stretches the image some. This is fine for NES but it's a bit annoying that I have to remember to undo this when I want to play any other console.

Here's one more hoping that Micomsoft will let us store and recall presets on the Blue, Red, Green and Yellow buttons sometime in the near future

[Fudoh]

Have any of you tried using the H_Pos option on the Mini?

yes, completely unusable as of now, because of the vertical line which appears on the edges.

Fudoh, what was the process you used to upgarde to 1.05? I did unplug mini, insert memory stick, plug in mini, wait until flash is complete, remove memory stick, turn on mini.

same here. I just do an additional internal FW reset after each update.

[Seraphic]

I just do an additional internal FW reset after each update.

How do you do an internal reset?

[Fudoh]

Options -> Reset.

[Zapf]

That snes list has a un32 number listed, but not what it actually is. Anyone have any ideas?

[Hamburglar]

I tried two different SCART switch boxes and neither work with my XRGB Mini. They work fine with other SCART to HDMI devices. Only thing I can think of is that are these switch boxes wired for Euro SCART or something? I bought one of those nice male to male Sony SCART cables so as far as I know, all wires are hooked up. It also doesn't make sense why mine wouldn't work if you guys seem to be doing things fine with that switch box from Germany?

[Fudoh]

All scart switch boxes (except the one from Micomsoft) are for use with EURO-Scart cables ONLY. If you put a JP-Scart cable into one of the inputs and use a standard Scart-Scart cable to connect the output to the Mini you can blow the Framemeister.

If you want to use a scart switch box (without massive internal modification), you can ONLY use EU-Scart cables for your consoles and you have to use a custom-made EU-Scart to JP-Scart cable to connect the switch to the Mini. You must pay attention though, not to use the EU/JP Scart cable the other way around.

[Hamburglar]

All scart switch boxes (except the one from Micomsoft) are for use with EURO-Scart cables ONLY. If you put a JP-Scart cable into one of the inputs and use a standard Scart-Scart cable to connect the output to the Mini you can blow the Framemeister.

If you want to use a scart switch box (without massive internal modification), you can ONLY use EU-Scart cables for your consoles and you have to use a custom-made EU-Scart to JP-Scart cable to connect the switch to the Mini. You must pay attention though, not to use the EU/JP Scart cable the other way around.

Aw, ok. I was trying not to have to resolder my expensive Japanese SNES Nintendo-brand RGB cables. But I guess I will. Is there anywhere to buy this EU-Scart to JP-Scart custom cable for the Mini? I'd rather not mess with the proprietary one that comes with the XRGB Mini.

[Fudoh]

If you want to use the switch exclusively with the Mini, it would make sense to directly get a MALE EU SCART to MINI-DIN8 cable. I'm sure sure Retro Accessories or any other custom cable builder will make you one.

[ZellSF]

Figure it's best to register to ask here since here's where the expertise is

1: How do you power this thing if you're in Europe/The UK?
2: How's PS2 deinterlacing image quality / input lag?
3: Does this currently have any problems with any common consoles/setups?
4: Is this really worth it if all I'm looking for is the best 240p processing you can get?

[BuckoA51]

All the above have pretty much been answered already, you did see Fudoh's review right?

All scart switch boxes (except the one from Micomsoft) are for use with EURO-Scart cables ONLY.

I appreciate I'm not an expert but I don't understand this statement at all.. a SCART lead should simply connect 21 pins on one end to the other, a switch simply switches those pins. RGB are on different pins on the JP RGB cables, but why would a switch or a SCART lead care about this?

[darthcloud]

I appreciate I'm not an expert but I don't understand this statement at all.. a SCART lead should simply connect 21 pins on one end to the other, a switch simply switches those pins. RGB are on different pins on the JP RGB cables, but why would a switch or a SCART lead care about this?

Because all the ground found in the pinout of a SCART cable are all connected together inside the switch. And since GND pin on japanese 21 cable is not at the same place some signal will endup being connect to ground. All SCART involve some voltage pin which are too differently placed compare to japan rgb21 cable.

A switch will only switch the video/audio signal and this is why you need to a cable wired correctly for your particular switch.

[Hamburglar]

Is Micomsoft the only maker of Japanese SCART switches? The one I found for them is really expensive.

[BuckoA51]

A switch will only switch the video/audio signal and this is why you need to a cable wired correctly for your particular switch.

This shouldn't be true of more expensive switches since you can do some non-standard things on the other pins (some set-top boxes use them for sending data for instance) though the ground thing might be true on a lot of switches.

[Shining]

If the serial on the system is UN31 then it is a 1CHIP.

Be aware that a lot of seller "built" complete kit so if the serial on the box is UN31, it's quite possible that the seller put another random SNES in the box!

The seller has now confirmed that the tabs are grey but the serial on the system starts with UN31 and "Eject" is molded. Just to make sure, do you think this still might be a 1CHIP?

The seller probably didn't check correctly, He saw the eject button tab rather than the connector tab that are below.

To me if the serial is UN31 it is a 1CHIP no doubt.

You can go ahead and add UN309431475 to the list as a 1CHIP US SNES. The difference in picture quality is quite remarkable
Will have another one shipping in this week. EDIT* Pic size fixed.

[Zapf]

Who added the UN32* serial number to the list? I'm tryin to find out if that's a 1chip or not

edit also make some thumbnails.

[Zapf]

Is Micomsoft the only maker of Japanese SCART switches? The one I found for them is really expensive.

How many consoles do you have where you already own a japanese 21 pin rgb cable instead of SCART? I can't imagine it is going to be cheaper to import micomsofts switcher over getting the hama one and a different cable for your snes

[darthcloud]

Who added the UN32* serial number to the list? I'm tryin to find out if that's a 1chip or not

edit also make some thumbnails.

I added this one and a few other to have an idea of the span the serial range take. Saw on ebay and I didn't buy it.
You can be sure it is an 1CHIP-01 at worst it could be an 1CHIP-02 But I'm pretty sure the !CHIP-01 is the last regular NTSC revision before the mini.


UN60 seam to be "special" SNES with bilingual text on the sticker below the power button released here in Québec and maybe other part of Canada. They have they own PCB order.
UN80 are special too they seam to be use for repaired system. It's a new sticker over the original SN. They can have any pcb rev inside. (Stay away from those )

Aout japan S vs SM: so far all S system I saw was "MADE IN JAPAN" and all SM I saw where "MADE IN CHINA".


btw the link to the list again: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub ... utput=html


We need more Europeen SN with PCB info!!

I would like to get all NTSC and PAL version and a HDMI capture card to test them all on the same setup. So far I've got GPM-02,RGB-02,APU-01 and 1CHIP-01.

[Konsolkongen]

We need more Europeen SN with PCB info!!

Okay! Please add my UP17716536 with PAL SNSP-CPU-1CHIP-01 to the list

My friends US UN313798793 is a SNS-CPU-1CHIP-01 which makes sense according to your list.

[Shining]

These pics do not do the 1CHIP justice, but here is a small comparison anyway. Settings:

HDMI 1080p
4:3
Normal 2
Picture
Sharpness 1 (TV sharpness is like 1 or 2/10)
H_scaler 5
V_scaler 6
Official PAL RGB Gamecube cable

SHVC-CPU-01

1CHIP-01


Looking at some of the others photos, how do you avoid getting all those wavy lines when taking pictures directly off of a TV screen?

[Fudoh]

taking photos from LCDs: a) right distance. Try a few and stick to one and b) downsize in steps, e.g. 3200 -> 1600 -> 800. Really helps.

The 1-chip looks amazing and your old US one looks really bad. Could you add your output resolution (1080p I assume), scaler settings (auto ? manual ?), please ?

[Fudoh]

Here are some shots from my SFC.

It's a launch model (november 1990), s/n S1036...

Sharpness 0:





Sharpness 1:





I'm basically happy with it, but removing those "hints of shadows" at sharpness 0 sounds tempting nevertheless

[Shining]

taking photos from LCDs: a) right distance. Try a few and stick to one and b) downsize in steps, e.g. 3200 -> 1600 -> 800. Really helps.

The 1-chip looks amazing and your old US one looks really bad. Could you add your output resolution (1080p I assume), scaler settings (auto ? manual ?), please ?

Oh, thanks. I might update my post with some new shots when i find the time.

Settings updated.

I think yours looks really great as it is! If you can find a cheap 1CHIP i would still go for one though

[ZellSF]

All the above have pretty much been answered already, you did see Fudoh's review right?

Yes, of course, sorry, that post was made a bit late at night. Done more research now including reading lots of this topic. And I've of course read Fudoh's review quite a few times before that. So if I get this right:

I get a Framemeister, I power it via... Fudoh uses a step-down adapter, I would rather not do that. Some other guy I saw on youtube uses a standard UK power adapter but he says you need a special adapter for the somewhat uncommon (in Europe) plug type used on the Framemeister? Any more information on that method?

I connect my sources, for SCART I need a PAL SCART to Japanese SCART cable, then I just plug that in the adapter that comes with the Framemeister, which connects to the mini-input on it? I also should buy a component to d-terminal cable for my component sources?

Some sources have problems with RGB, if I want to use those I need some sort of sync fixing equipment, but if I run into any of these problems s-video should work fine right? Super Famicom seems to be a common problem, but how are PAL Super Nintendos? (I know, no 50hz)

Maybe wildly off-topic question, but since there are some PSP owners here...: Does the PSP output native 240p while playing PSX titles? I know it says 480i but I want someone to test...

Sorry for the somewhat noobish questions, but I'm really new to this and would like to know this before I spend lots of money on it

[Fudoh]

I would rather not do that. Some other guy I saw on youtube uses a standard UK power adapter but he says you need a special adapter for the somewhat uncommon (in Europe) plug type used on the Framemeister?

not really. The XRGB-3 PSU was hard to find, but if you take the Framemeister to your lcal electronics supply, you'll easily find a fitting 5V PSU for around 10-15 EUR.

I connect my sources, for SCART I need a PAL SCART to Japanese SCART cable, then I just plug that in the adapter that comes with the Framemeister

yes, that's one method. Or you use a scart switch and add a cable from the switch's output to the Mini's MiniDin8 input.

I also should buy a component to d-terminal cable for my component sources?

yes, make sure to order one along right away.

Some sources have problems with RGB, if I want to use those I need some sort of sync fixing equipment, but if I run into any of these problems s-video should work fine right?

I wouldn't revert to s-video. Fixing a possible RGB problem is easy enough. Also PAL sources won't work via composite or s-video, even when running in 60Hz.

Maybe wildly off-topic question, but since there are some PSP owners here...: Does the PSP output native 240p while playing PSX titles? I know it says 480i but I want someone to test...

no, 480p.

[ZellSF]

I wouldn't revert to s-video. Fixing a possible RGB problem is easy enough.

The sync issues I read about most people solved by making custom cables to a sync strike... There's an easier way?

Also PAL sources won't work via composite or s-video, even when running in 60Hz.

I was planning on region modding any system in question, play NTSC games on PAL systems... I don't think I ever want to play a PAL game again. Are you saying that won't work?

no, 480p.

Have you tested with PSP output set to 480i? I tried testing by connecting to my CRT but due to some issues with the cable I ended up with a black white image... and I can't easily tell interlace artifacts on a CRT, but it looked pretty good.

[Fudoh]

I don't use a Sync strike. If you have problems with a particular system, mod the cable (e.g. Mega Drive) or just get another cable which uses raw sync in the first place.

Modded PAL systems don't output real NTSC through composite or s-video, you have to use RGB or component.

PSP: why would you want to set the PSP output to 480i if you can use 480p instead ? I haven't tried 480i since I only had a 2000 before my Go and only the 3000 introduced interlaced support for games (I think).

[ZellSF]

I don't use a Sync strike. If you have problems with a particular system, mod the cable (e.g. Mega Drive) or just get another cable which uses raw sync in the first place.

That sounds easier, I think... Any good places to look for cables?

Modded PAL systems don't output real NTSC through composite or s-video, you have to use RGB or component.

That's disappointing, what do you mean not real NTSC though? Do they output PAL60?

PSP: why would you want to set the PSP output to 480i if you can use 480p instead ? I haven't tried 480i since I only had a 2000 before my Go and only the 3000 introduced interlaced support for games (I think).

If PSP output is 240p for PSX games when set to 480i (I want someone to test this, it seems that way to me, but my test conditions are awful), then I sort of want to use it because it has relatively lag free wireless controllers and storage support so I don't have to change discs all the time. That's the ideal setup, but the input lag and audio quality issues might make me just go with a PS1 or PS2.

[Fudoh]

That's disappointing, what do you mean not real NTSC though? Do they output PAL60?

indeed.

If PSP output is 240p for PSX games when set to 480i

that's definitely not the case. I get your idea, but remember that the PSP runs at 272p internally, so with 480i output you get pre-scaling plus interlacing.... Also zoomed PSP looks way worse than real 240p from a PS1 or PS2.