Questions about the NTSC PS2 Slim

[Daigohji]

The laser in my modded PAL PS1 has been dying a slow death for years. I keep my discs pristine, but it's now reached the point where some of my US imports won't load, no matter what angle I tip the console to or how many times I adjust the pot. I've tried PC-based emulators like psX and ePSXe, and have been disappointed in the results in some of my favourite games.

As I see it, that leaves me with two options.

Option 1 is to play eBay roulette by buying a used PS1 of the same model. I can then cannibalise its disc drive for the modded console, and hope it's in better condition than the one I already have. That's the cheap option, but risky. I could potentially be throwing away money on one or more consoles that are as worn out as my current one.

Option 2 is to import a new PS2 Slim from America. The Slim has an external power brick, so am I right in thinking that all I would need is the power brick and plug from a UK PS2 Slim (which I already have), and I'd be okay to plug the US console into a 240V mains socket without needing a step-down converter? Also, does the NTSC PS2 have the same video output socket as the PAL one? Would I be able to use the same SCART cable as with my PAL PS1 and PS2?

Another issue I've had with my PS1 since I switched to a flatscreen TV (Panasonic L37G20) is that the horizontal hold goes out of alignment for NTSC games via RGB-SCART. PAL games are centred properly, but for NTSC the image is about an inch to the left, chopping off the left 10% of the image. There's no way to fix this on my TV via the normal menus, and I don't want to risk screwing around in the service menu when I don't know what I'm doing. Are there any devices that enable manual horizontal shifting, and input and output RGB-SCART (preferably that aren't too expensive)?

Any information appreciated.

[HydrogLox]

The Slim has an external power brick.

Only for models prior to the SCPH-9000x (which started shipping in Nov. 2007) - it integrated the power-supply.

Also, does the NTSC PS2 have the same video output socket as the PAL one? Would I be able to use the same SCART cable as with my PAL PS1 and PS2?

I occasionally use a Snakebyte PS3 RGB SCART cable purchased from amazon.co.uk from a NTSC-U PS2, NTCS-J PS2 or NTSC-J PSOne to an XRGB-Mini - so I wouldn't expect an issue.

[Thomago]

That's the cheap option, but risky. I could potentially be throwing away money on one or more consoles that are as worn out as my current one.

Why don't you just buy a new laser unit? This will probably be even cheaper.

Also, does the NTSC PS2 have the same video output socket as the PAL one? Would I be able to use the same SCART cable as with my PAL PS1 and PS2?

Yes, it's exactly the same.

Are there any devices that enable manual horizontal shifting, and input and output RGB-SCART (preferably that aren't too expensive)?

A sync strike + an Extron RGB interface (the latter would allow manual horizontal shifting) comes to mind, but that would be kind of expensive.

[Ed Oscuro]

I'd go with the external-PSU slim - somewhat newer and with a newer laser assembly. Might take slightly longer to heat up to the point that the fan spins, though I haven't tried testing this empirically or anything. That said, both varieties of slim have worked wonderfully for me. Running PS1 games I've never had the fan spin up. I haven't tried running them on a flat panel, though.

[pcb_revival]

@Daigohji

There is the other option of using Free MCBoot with Open PS2 Loader and rips of your games booting from a USB stick as long as they are compatible.

[Daigohji]

Thanks for the information so far everyone.

The Slim has an external power brick.

Only for models prior to the SCPH-9000x (which started shipping in Nov. 2007) - it integrated the power-supply.

Was the SCPH-9000x ever sold in the US? I notice on the Wikipedia page listing PS2 hardware revisions that it only mentions it being released in Japan. On Amazon, the most recent PS2 release date I can find is July 2007, which would correspond with the SCPH-7900x. Do those sites just have out of date information (it wouldn't be the first time)?

I also notice on that Wikipedia page that it mentions the SCPH-7900x reduced the weight of the power brick. Does anyone know if that corresponded with a change in power output to the console? My current PAL PS2 is an older v12 model with the larger brick (SCPH-70003).

That's the cheap option, but risky. I could potentially be throwing away money on one or more consoles that are as worn out as my current one.

Why don't you just buy a new laser unit? This will probably be even cheaper.

From what I've read, people selling new PS1 laser units are either using poor quality Chinese knock-offs that don't work well, or have just yanked them out of old used PS1s. It's certainly the cheapest option though, so I may try my luck at this first.

@Daigohji

There is the other option of using Free MCBoot with Open PS2 Loader and rips of your games booting from a USB stick as long as they are compatible.

I tried installing FMCB yesterday, but I can't get the installer to launch. The installation instructions mention several methods, but the only two I could try were a combination of Swap Magic and the installation files on either USB stick or CDR. Neither worked. I'm guessing my version of SM is too old (3.3).

[Ed Oscuro]

Was the SCPH-9000x ever sold in the US?

SCPH-90001 is A Thing, so yes. 'net sources seem to date it to about 2008 which makes sense. Dunno how common it is, though; I'm not sure you can get PS2 fat-style deals on eBay for these.

[HydrogLox]

Was the SCPH-9000x ever sold in the US?

I picked up a "spare" PS2 which is a SCPH-90001 CB in December 2011 in a Walmart in London, Ontario (last one on the shelf).
Also look on ebay for "SCPH-90001"
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= ... &_from=R40

Does anyone know if that corresponded with a change in power output to the console? My current PAL PS2 is an older v12 model with the larger brick (SCPH-70003).

My primary PS2 it a SCPH-79001 - the supply is a SCPH-79100 100-240V~1.2A 50/60Hz to 8.5V - 4.5A - so that one you should be able to use with just a AC plug converter.

The SCPH-90001 CB on the other hand is strictly 120V 60Hz 35W. (The NTSC-J SCPH-90000 is 100V 50/60Hz 35W).

[Ed Oscuro]

The SCPH-90001 CB on the other hand is strictly 120V 60Hz 35W. (The NTSC-J SCPH-90000 is 100V 50/60Hz 35W).

I think it's the same console power brick and console internals though, isn't it? Just different inventory coding.

[HydrogLox]

I think it's the same console power brick and console internals though, isn't it? Just different inventory coding.

The SCPH-90001 and SCPH-90000 could actually have different power supply boards if heat dissipation was a concern - an identical circuit could generate more waste heat at 120V. I would expect that the SCPH-79100 power brick is an entirely different design as it allows the full range of 100-240V - the voltage regulator (IC) would dissipate a lot more heat at 220V - which isn't a concern in a power brick but wouldn't be desirable inside the actual console.

[Ed Oscuro]

Yes, I agree, but without shots it's hard to say. 100V versus 120V isn't really that great a difference, and line voltages for 120V are often 110V anyway.

[Daigohji]

I appreciate all this detailed information.

My primary PS2 it a SCPH-79001 - the supply is a SCPH-79100 100-240V~1.2A 50/60Hz to 8.5V - 4.5A - so that one you should be able to use with just a AC plug converter.

I notice that the power supply on my PAL SCPH-70003 is a bit different. Input is 100-240V~1.5A 50/60Hz. Output is 8.5V = 5.65A, while the console itself says it takes 5.3A. So if I plugged that into a 79001, would that damage the console, or would it only draw the 4.5A (or less) it needs? I know it would make more sense to use the power brick packed with the console, but I'm just curious, since I've never really grasped the different significance of volts, amps, hertz and watts in powering electronic devices. This is one of those situations where it's important to know what's potentially dangerous, what's just an inefficient draw on power, and what makes no difference.

[HydrogLox]

I notice that the power supply on my PAL SCPH-70003 is a bit different. Input is 100-240V~1.5A 50/60Hz. Output is 8.5V = 5.65A.

Sounds like its a SCPH-70100.

So if I plugged that into a 79001, would that damage the console, or would it only draw the 4.5A (or less) it needs?

The SCPH-790001 would simply draw what it needs - assuming the coaxial power connector is identical and the polarity is the same - probably a safe assumption given that there are third party power supplies that claim compatibility across all SCPH-7xxxx models. On the flip-side running the SCPH-70003 on the SCPH-79100 would be unreliable at best.

[speedlolita]

Was the SCPH-9000x ever sold in the US?

SCPH-90001 is A Thing, so yes. 'net sources seem to date it to about 2008 which makes sense. Dunno how common it is, though; I'm not sure you can get PS2 fat-style deals on eBay for these.

I won a 90004 on eBay last week for £30.99, console only though. Seem to be pretty desirable, though inexpensive in Germany at least. Built in PSU and style that is a mix of a phat and original slim make is seem like a far more robust unit. The laser is supposed to be excellent. Only bought it for curio reasons really though. Have an NTSC Debug machine and a 39003 with DMS3 Plus with a Ghost 2 v2 chip in the post to chip another 39003.

Phat machines will always rule the roost in my eyes, getting a model with a KHS-400R laser and you're laughing.

[Ed Oscuro]

Built in PSU and style that is a mix of a phat and original slim

The Japanese 90000 has a slick (glossy) surface that shows scratches badly, unlike the 75001 which has the PS2 fat-like style you mentioned. I can't seem to tell from a Google Image Search whether the 90004 really does have that style or not - I see some that look like the 9- series and some that look like the 7- series.

Still don't get the love for a built-in transformer - that goes bad, and you've got a lot more to worry about than you do with the 7X000 series. That being said, the rumor always went around that early slims were likely to have bad lasers. I also tried to conjecture a while back about whether the slightly smaller power draw of the 9- series coupled with having the heat-dissipating transformer in the body meant it was more or less likely to spin the fan than the others. Of course there's also the fan quality to consider, too. I've always wanted to find a nice quiet fan replacement for PlayStation 2s.

[speedlolita]

Yep.





Check the styling on the back and the smooth lines on the front and generally. I much prefer it.

[Ed Oscuro]

That's just the 90000 style styling, which is different from the "PS2 fat-like" styling of the original slim. The key is along the front view: There are three ridges along the front - here there is just a gap between the top lid and the rest of the body. You see ridges like that along the back and the sides, though they are "flat" and not rounded like on the 70000/75000 series. The 90000 series slims really have a new style entirely. There's now a checkerboard pattern along one of the sides, and the vents at the front of the 75000 series (under the PlayStation logo, as seen when the unit is laid flat) and back are gone, with instead an unobtrusive vent along the left and right sides of the unit (which would be facing the top and bottom, if the unit is placed on the vertical stand). Overall I'd the 90000 series has cleaner (or harsher) lines and looks more monolithic. Personally, I like both - but I appreciate how the 75000 series hides scratches well. On the other hand, the new format of the 90000 series is sexy enough.

From what I've read, the 77000 series might be a good compromise between having a lighter system (lighter than earlier slims) while still having the power brick external. Of course, the internal power supply models are lighter still.

[Thrill]

Anyone know where I can still buy a new NTSC PS2 Slim 77000 series for shipment to the UK?

[Ed Oscuro]

You can try eBay, but the ones that show up there tend to be a bit expensive.

Yeah, it's just been a few years but they're already considered collector grade investments by people who still have them, sorry

You probably can do pretty well getting a nice used one. I've seen some guides on cleaning them up, too, if that's a concern.

[Thrill]

Like I know I could probably go get a new V9 one and use a step down but obviously being able to just use a PAL power brick is way easier.

I only actually need an NTSC PS2 to play a NTSC PS1 game with fast disc load speed... how annoying.

[Daigohji]

In the end I decided on a belt-and-braces approach, so I bought a new PS1 laser pickup/disc drive as well as a used SCPH-70001 (I think that's a v13) PS2 on eBay. I went with the earlier model for a couple of reasons. First because it uses the same model power brick as my PAL 70003 (v12). Second because one of the main games I want it for is Xenosaga Episode 1, one of the few PS2 games that doesn't work with a boot disc, due to being on a DVD9. I've heard conflicting reports about that game not working on some models of PS2, but I know it worked on my v12 before the mod chip died. Hopefully it will work on this v13, but I won't be surprised if it doesn't (just annoyed).

As for the new PS1 drive, I've seen replacement laser pickups/disc drive on sale before, but had heard that they were just yanked out of broken second-hand consoles. Fortunately, at least one seller on eBay is a China-based company that manufactures replicas of the original units. One arrived well packed today, and it only took ten minutes to swap the disc drive over. The simple procedure involved removing the outer casing, unplugging the power and data cables running from the disc drive to the motherboard, and switching in the new unit.

I had low expectations for it, considering it only cost £7, but initial tests look promising. The Playstation still doesn't read all the discs I tried quite as consistently as it did back in 1997, but I don't know if that's down to the quality/calibration of the new laser or the fact that the discs in question are 10-15 years old. Regardless, for now my Playstation is running better than it has for the last decade.