shmups.system11.org

how/when do these timing issues show up? i'm using a vp30 too and have used it was an xrgb-2 in the past as well, and have never experienced such problems.

Issues through HDMI with 1080p input signal on both flat panel TVs I'v owned so far, the LG 32LD450 and this Sony.

With Fudoh's advice problem was solved on the LG just by reducing H-SIZE by 1 line (1920 -> 1919)
I had no picture at all otherwise.

The W6 seems to hate 1080p from the VP30 even more, like it cannot sync with it: losing picture all the time, sound sync seems to be an issue as well.
I cannot find the right settings, tried 1919 and -1 lipsync... it's better but that's not it yet.

Maybe you should start over and create a custom timing from scratch.

Do you have a PC connected to the W6 ? If yes, you could check the digital timing specs of the signal there and take them over to the VP30. I have no problems with the 50Pro here, so I doubt that the VP30 can't be forced to work nicely with the W6.

Will you be reviewing either one of these someday for us to measure how well they fare in terms of gaming dedicated TVs?

@Fudoh: No pc connected yet because I miss a DVI>HDMI adapter. (Before I was just using VGA)
I'll buy one next week and do a full check as you suggest.

The X9 seems like a poor choice for a gaming display:
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/kd55x900 ... 273528.htm

HDTVtest measured the W6 at 15ms and the X9 at 43ms. Which isn't the correct numbers, as the leo bodnar results have to be interpreted somehow. Anyway it should still give you the idea that the X9 has noticeable higher input delay.

Furthermore we will probably never see many retail PS4 and certainly not Xbox One 4K games. And should there ever be any, they would be limited to 30fps because of the HDMI 1.4 both systems use.

New Sony models announced at CES 2014 (for US market):

http://store.sony.com/-cms-ces.2014.tel ... nding.page

It will be interesting to see if Sony keeps input lag low in most of their models for 2014. Interestingly there are some new panel sizes: 48", 49", and 79". I don't recall seeing any 85" flat panels outside of commercial Panasonic plasmas... http://store.sony.com/gsi/webstore/WFS/ ... XBR85X950B

Okay so my W6's picture is kind of yellow and I can't seem to be able to find balanced color settings.
The 'Warm 1 & 2' settings to begin are extremely yellow to my eyes so I don't select those and try with either 'neutral' or cool'.
From there I am a lost,
- I don't want to lower the gamma because some dark scenes become way too dark.
- The black/contrast/white otions don't really help (clear white options don't seem to have any effect).
- Manual RGB settings are a mystery to me, just 1 push on any slider messes the colors completely.

Could you find a general acceptable setting for most uses Fudoh ?
My set is always on Game scene mode by the way, with backlight at 5 or 6.

Neutral and cool are completely off. If you prefer those, then you've got really bad viewing habits and your other displays are likely way off as well. It's kinda hard to get a display to a point where it actually doesn't belong (color-wise). On cool and neutral clear white doesn't do anything since your high-IRE areas are already way too blue and clear color just removes a certain red-tint from high-IRE colors.

Yellow-tint means you have a red and green push. The warm color temps push red, but they don't push green. You should try to display a greyscale when adjusting color. The PS2 memory card screen does the job if the got nothing else. Then just try to adjust the RGB sliders in the white level control to get grey to display in a tint of your choice. I can't recommend anything, since your prefered look would obviously seem very cold (blue-ish) to me.

Well I have the test patterns from the VP30 and EDGE, I'll give those a try but I don't really know how to use those efficiently.
Moreover I am now doubting my eyes.

Actually to be fair my parents who saw the display each at different times, both said the picture has a yellow tint...
I've tried clear whites with warm 2 and warm 1 (not with neutral or cool) but still could hardly see any difference.
For me the Warm settings are super yellow...

Ambient light is important here: If the room is primarily lit by incandescent bulbs you want a "warmer" color temperature to make things look reasonable; compact florescent lighting (and daylight) tend towards the blue end of the spectrum (typically). That said, I don't think you need to worry about getting a perfect fit; your brain can adjust a little bit, so long as it's close.

Yes I was wondering about that as well.
Most of the time I warch the set in a rather dim room with no light soucre in the front, and a moderate one in the back (small 40W-ish bulb).

With *every* single TV set to at least 8000°K at the factory, I have no doubt that your parents aren't used to calibrated sets either.

On the VP30 display the grey ramp. When you use warm2 (which you should) and you enable clear white you'll see that it takes some red out of the brightest bars on the ramp.

A D65 calibration isn't for everyone and I wouldn't enforce it on anyone either, but if you want to see your movies the way they're mastered at the studios you have to aim for that kind of color temp.

Hmm. I've had my LCD monitor set to 6500K since I've gotten it and never noticed a tint on it. No matter the ambient light. My guess is that Xyga's TV might really not be calibrated properly if he's seriously seeing a tint.

It really depends on what else you got around. If you use a PC screen that's set to 9000+°K and then switch to a D65-set TV set, you'll always have the impression that everything's red-tinted.

Thanks for the advice I'll have a serious look at this during the week-end.

To give some examples about what I see even on 'neutral';
- yellowish skies
- yellowish vegetation
- people all seem to be sick

On 'cool' the yellow tint is gone but everything overall looks a bit washed out / dull.

Honestly with the IPS I was using before in the same room and same hardware I never noticed anything like that.
No problem with my MVA pc monitor as well.

Bad factory calibration ? Different MVA panel ? I don't want to speculate.

Silly question but if my TV has about 29ms of input lag and the XRGB-Mini adds about 24ms, do i get a total of 53ms or is it limited to 29ms?

you get a total of 53ms

possible, but I would assume that it's easily fixable.

Really? I guess i'm not that sensitive to input lag then

If you need a surround sound receiver to go with your new TV, Sony's 2013 models seem pretty darn good too, my review of the STR-DN840 is here http://www.videogameperfection.com/av-g ... 40-review/

Good read. You might want to add the price somewhere. Especially with AVRs it's so easy to spend anything between 200 and 2000 pounds. On my Sony HX setup I still use a Denon AVC-A1D. Will get replaced someday... To go along with the Sony W655 I recently bought a pair of Edifier Luna Eclipse. Very nice sound for a your "average" pair of active speakers.

Good point!, Current price added (£50 less than I paid frustratingly) also forgot to mention it has an analogue radio (no digital).

Those speakers are a little 'loud', aesthetically I mean, for my tastes! Luckily I'm still happy with my Tannoy set so didn't need to replace my speakers.

Not that anyone needed a reason to bump this fine thread, but I feel like this belongs here:

-> http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/kdl42w70 ... 233639.htm

I had a hunch W600/630B felt like downgrades but it seems like W705B is being pinned as the replacement.

Sadly it seems to lack Motionflow/strobing altogether, but it has 2 extra HDMI ports. I'm quite bummed for the lack of strobing though.

Excellent news !

It has got the same "LED Motion Mode" as the W6 models. That's 60Hz strobing BL.

^ That's certainly good to hear/see clarified. (thanks)

Did the W650 have Motionflow options? (because when it comes down to specs W705B still claims to be Motionflow XR200 compliant) Trying to figure out wether this TV is the very same or not for all means and purposes.

Also, seems like no 120 Hz strobing this year even on the high end, which is disappointing but expected.

No motionflow setting on either the 650, 680 or 700 series.

Well Motionflow = much more input lag, so it's not like we will miss it.

Also IIRC the strobing mode adds only about 5ms, but it's not like anyone can stand looking at the screen with it on.
(I know I can't, the headache starts after about 10 mn)

I love the Impulse mode on my W9, and I can't feel any added lag at all. Wouldn't play without it as the motionblur without it looks like ass in most games.