XRGB-mini Framemeister

[Smashbro29]

I wish I could use 1080p D: I still get misscoloured pixels! and I don't mean individual ones but entire segments that goes ballistic

Don't feel too bad, I still wanna see which settings get "Fudoh approved" before jumping in.

[lettuce]

It looks like 1080p scanlines are finally fixed in v1.10 firmware. I didn't notice anyone posting this information! All you have to do is set ZOOM_SIZE to 90! When zoom is enabled, scanline odd/even is disabled, and the uniform scanline setting is active. Picture is from the NESRGB kit.

Those scanlines are bit too sharp and thin though arent they, anyway to blur them ever so slightly??

[EmperorZelos]

I wish I could use 1080p D: I still get misscoloured pixels! and I don't mean individual ones but entire segments that goes ballistic

Don't feel too bad, I still wanna see which settings get "Fudoh approved" before jumping in.

Oh no, I mean in general, I can't use 1080p due to these pixel segments just appearing, I have no clue why! DX

[Custardo]

Just upgraded to V1.10. I noticed that something has changed (for the better) with the sync level setting. On V1.8X i wasnt able to get a completely stable sync off my my JP mega drive (best setting seemed to be somewhere in the range of 22-24). In V1.10 I get a perfectly stable picture with sync level 14.

[Fudoh]

checked out the "new" 1080p scanline option and I guess it's just by mistake. ZOOM SIZE 90 overscans the image a little bit, so yes, the image is considerably larger than with the SMARTx2 mode. Funny thing is that all other zoom size settings (91 to 100) use the B scanline set, while 90 uses the A one, so you basically get the same "needle stripe" scanlines than in 1080p SMARTx2 mode, but without the big underscan. I still think the scanlines look ugly though. You might also have to toogle the scanlines for a moment to have the Mini switch from the B to the A set.

[RGB32E]

checked out the "new" 1080p scanline option and I guess it's just by mistake. ZOOM SIZE 90 overscans the image a little bit, so yes, the image is considerably larger than with the SMARTx2 mode. Funny thing is that all other zoom size settings (91 to 100) use the B scanline set, while 90 uses the A one, so you basically get the same "needle stripe" scanlines than in 1080p SMARTx2 mode, but without the big underscan. I still think the scanlines look ugly though. You might also have to toogle the scanlines for a moment to have the Mini switch from the B to the A set.

Scanlines in 720p are fugly in their own way... Like you speculated before, you can't H/V_WIDTH stretch Smartx2 to the same size as ZOOM 90.

[Fudoh]

Scanlines in 720p are fugly in their own way...

to be even more exact, they actually look the same as the 1080p scanlines (1 line of pixels, when you have a look at the raw 720p signal on the Mini's output), but the scaling on the display's side makes them usually look comparable to the typical 480p scanlines. You usually don't use scanlines anyway, do you ?

[AkibaDecker]

Just got my Framemeister today. I also got 21-pin cables for my SNES and PlayStation (from Retro Access via eBay). I just tried the SNES for now and played with the various settings. This thing's incredible!!! I kind of like the V_LINE option

I'm located in the U.S. and I read that those of you plugged in your Framemeisters without a need for any transformers. Do any of you have the Framemeister always plugged-in for weeks on end, even if it's on Standby?

[RGB32E]

to be even more exact, they actually look the same as the 1080p scanlines (1 line of pixels, when you have a look at the raw 720p signal on the Mini's output), but the scaling on the display's side makes them usually look comparable to the typical 480p scanlines. You usually don't use scanlines anyway, do you ?

The current state of 1080p scanlines in v1.10 FW was just something I was experimenting with and prefer the new 1080p result to 720p. My favorite scan lines are found on displays that actually have scan lines, such as CRTs!

Just got my Framemeister today. I also got 21-pin cables for my SNES and PlayStation. I just tried the SNES for now and played with the various settings. This thing's incredible!!! I kind of like the V_LINE option

I'm located in the U.S. and I read that those of you plugged in your Framemeisters without a need for any transformers. Do any of you have the Framemeister always plugged-in for weeks on end, even if it's on Standby?

The mini is pretty incredible, but its not without a few quirks!

The AC adapter included with the mini is full range (90-235VAC) IIRC. The AC adapter included with prior XRGB models was rated for 100VAC only. I've never had any issues keeping either the XRGB-3 or XRGB-mini AC adapters connected to US AC outlets for weeks on end.

[pyrotek85]

Do any of you have the Framemeister always plugged-in for weeks on end, even if it's on Standby?

I've had mine plugged in for over a year with no problems, it's never gotten too warm or anything. Even after long play sessions (6-8hr) it doesn't feel much hotter. Unless you notice it getting too warm I wouldn't worry. A surge suppressor wouldn't be a bad idea though, given the cost of the unit to replace should a spike happen.

[Fudoh]

The AC adapter included with the mini is full range (90-235VAC) IIRC.

unfortunately not.

[AkibaDecker]

I've got my consoles and the Framemeister definitely going into a surge supressor. It's no backup UPS, but it does the job (Monoprice branded).

[GohanX]

Hey guys, I'm having a slight issue and I've been messing with the settings and can't figure out a solution.

When I have a solid color screen (all white, or sky blue background, or something) and I have scanlines enabled it looks like there are faint bands in the lines, kind of like jailbars but horizontal. I don't notice them if there is something on the screen, just when it's all (or mostly) a solid color. I've tried it with the Genesis and a few different Neo Geos in RGB and also the Wii U in HDMI.

I usually play it in "Picture" mode in 720p with scanlines, as my sources are either old stuff in 240p RGB or the Wii U in 480p for VC games. I have the latest firmware, although the issue was present in the 1.8 firmware. I have tried adjusting everything I could think of and the only thing that changes it at all is the V WIDTH setting (32) but changing it does other weird things with the scanlines. The image still looks great, and it's barely noticeable, but maybe someone has an idea to make it just a little bit better.

[MMJuno]

Hey guys, I'm having a slight issue and I've been messing with the settings and can't figure out a solution.

When I have a solid color screen (all white, or sky blue background, or something) and I have scanlines enabled it looks like there are faint bands in the lines, kind of like jailbars but horizontal. I don't notice them if there is something on the screen, just when it's all (or mostly) a solid color. I've tried it with the Genesis and a few different Neo Geos in RGB and also the Wii U in HDMI.

I usually play it in "Picture" mode in 720p with scanlines, as my sources are either old stuff in 240p RGB or the Wii U in 480p for VC games. I have the latest firmware, although the issue was present in the 1.8 firmware. I have tried adjusting everything I could think of and the only thing that changes it at all is the V WIDTH setting (32) but changing it does other weird things with the scanlines. The image still looks great, and it's barely noticeable, but maybe someone has an idea to make it just a little bit better.

I had this same issue with my old Samsung LCD TV. Nothing I changed on the Mini or the TV seemed to help, aside from running 1080p in SmartX2 mode. Of course, this reduces the image size significantly, but the scan lines did look uniform only in this mode on my setup.

I recently picked up a new Sony LCD TV and it handles 720p scan lines fine (assuming I have the TV in the proper picture size mode). The scan lines on this TV appear quite uniform.

Unfortunately, it seems like certain TVs just have problems when it comes to scan lines in 720p on the mini.

[GohanX]

Interesting, I wonder if changing settings on the TV itself will help. I'll have to give it a try. Thanks!

My TV is a Plasma, but it also is made by Samsung. I wonder if that has anything to do with it.

[Fudoh]

But it's a 1080p plasma, right ? WXGA panels can't properly rescale scanlined images. You could try if you get better results with 480p from the Mini.

[Shining]

Hey guys, I'm having a slight issue and I've been messing with the settings and can't figure out a solution.

When I have a solid color screen (all white, or sky blue background, or something) and I have scanlines enabled it looks like there are faint bands in the lines, kind of like jailbars but horizontal. I don't notice them if there is something on the screen, just when it's all (or mostly) a solid color. I've tried it with the Genesis and a few different Neo Geos in RGB and also the Wii U in HDMI.

I usually play it in "Picture" mode in 720p with scanlines, as my sources are either old stuff in 240p RGB or the Wii U in 480p for VC games. I have the latest firmware, although the issue was present in the 1.8 firmware. I have tried adjusting everything I could think of and the only thing that changes it at all is the V WIDTH setting (32) but changing it does other weird things with the scanlines. The image still looks great, and it's barely noticeable, but maybe someone has an idea to make it just a little bit better.

I have this problem too (Toshiba 1080p LCD). The image is fantastic in 1080p though so i tend to stick with that and with no scanlines enabled.

[andykara2003]

I'm curious whether an RGB scart output from a Gamecube to the XRGB mini would produce the same resulting image as a component output?

Also, would there be more lag with RGB as the mini would be deinterlacing it?

[marqs]

I'm curious whether an RGB scart output from a Gamecube to the XRGB mini would produce the same resulting image as a component output?

Also, would there be more lag with RGB as the mini would be deinterlacing it?

With progressive scan disabled, there shouldn't be much difference. RGB has sync on an external line, whereas it's embedded on the luma line (Y) on component, reducing the quality in theory. Chroma (Pb&Pr) may also be subsampled internally, but I don't think you'll spot these differences by eye.

Component is clear winner if you enable progressive scan, as you get better image quality and one frame less lag. However, there is also a way to get progressive (480p) RGB from Gamecube. I'd interested to know how that stacks against component.

[Smashbro29]

I'm still fuzzy on what the new firmware actually does. Do they put out anything in English?

[andykara2003]

I'm curious whether an RGB scart output from a Gamecube to the XRGB mini would produce the same resulting image as a component output?

Also, would there be more lag with RGB as the mini would be deinterlacing it?

With progressive scan disabled, there shouldn't be much difference. RGB has sync on an external line, whereas it's embedded on the luma line (Y) on component, reducing the quality in theory. Chroma (Pb&Pr) may also be subsampled internally, but I don't think you'll spot these differences by eye.

Component is clear winner if you enable progressive scan, as you get better image quality and one frame less lag. However, there is also a way to get progressive (480p) RGB from Gamecube. I'd interested to know how that stacks against component.

Cheers

[AkibaDecker]

I performed the firmware upgrade per good instructions and the green lights were pulsating. Now, there are two solid green lights on power and input. Should I just unplug the power adapter now, remove the microSD and reboot? Just got a little scared since the normal process listed before was that it would power down and show off the red light

Update: Nevermind... guess it worked after I tried the J version, then back to the E version.

[RGB32E]

I tried adding a few caps to get rid of the very subtle vertical bar on a 1CHIP-01. It seems to eliminate the vertical bar on problematic titles (e.g. Final Fantasy 3). I set brightness and A/D level to max to help illustrate.

[AkibaDecker]

I tried adding a few caps to get rid of the very subtle vertical bar on a 1CHIP-01. It seems to eliminate the vertical bar on problematic titles (e.g. Final Fantasy 3). I set brightness and A/D level to max to help illustrate.

This is very cool... I have a Japanese Super Famicom I bought used from my last trip to Japan (last April). Once I had my Framemeister hooked up to the SFC, I did notice this vertical bar. It's subtle enough that it doesn't annoy me, but it's there. What you did looks great

[Smashbro29]

HDMI passthrough is a godsend for my multimonitor setup. Switching away from it doesn't cause a renegotiation which is amazing!

[Smashbro29]

https://twitter.com/MicomsoftX/status/4 ... 3556315136

This is pretty cool.

[broken harbour]

https://twitter.com/MicomsoftX/status/4 ... 3556315136

This is pretty cool.

Dammit if it's so simple why don't they just produce one?

[AkibaDecker]

https://twitter.com/MicomsoftX/status/4 ... 3556315136

This is pretty cool.

Dammit if it's so simple why don't they just produce one?

They just announced it... That said, it's coming soon then? So they finally made a sync combiner?

UPDATE: Looks like a tease, asking users if there is demand. Of course there is!

[broken harbour]

Dear everyone:

Please reply to their tweet and demand it!

[Fudoh]

It wouldn't be a bad idea to include one with future shipments, but getting something as simple as that from japan would just raise the price. You can get an adapter cable with a passive sync combiner circuit from your next door modder. I'm surprised that nobody here on the marketplace sells them already.