That is good news.viletim wrote:I have posted all the orders. Now working on producing the next batch...

That is good news.viletim wrote:I have posted all the orders. Now working on producing the next batch...
ckong wrote:That is good news.viletim wrote:I have posted all the orders. Now working on producing the next batch...Is it possible to make a reservation list for the guys who were out of luck with the first batch?
If you want to do some serious testing for yourself (not that a video wouldn't be appreciated), you can download the emulators the palettes came from. They're mentioned in the first post.leonk wrote:Can I do a vid request? Focus on the TV (full screen) and switch between the different color mods to show us the difference? Do it in spots where the video will not move.. e.g. world map in SMB3, or enemy select screen in mega man?
I'd like to see what all the hype is about the different colors.
Yes I'm using the original japanese AC adapter. Is there anything that I can check before desoldering the NESRGB and putting the PPU back in the original location?alamone wrote:Are you by chance using the original AC adaptor for your Famicom?
When I was doing the PPU based RGB hack I ended up frying a couple of AV famicoms and I think
it is because the original AC adapter only has enough amps for the AV famicom and nothing else.
I never ran into this problem when hacking a toaster NES.
A solid grey video signal comes out of the NESRGB board before the game initialises the PPU. If you see this it means the CPU is not executing code. After running the Famicom for a few minutes put your finger on the CPU and PPU to check if one is warmer than the other.frsj8112 wrote:I wonder if I've broken somethin :cry:
After I was tidying things up to make the board fit in the AV Famicom shell again, it just gives me a grey screen when starting games again
The cart slot and carts are clean, what could have happened?
Not at all. The original power supply should be fine.lettuce wrote:Damn so u can't use an official nes PSU if using this pcb??
No, different.lettuce wrote:Regarding the scart cable, I never ordered one as viletim was all sold out, does it use the same din plug as a Megadrive 2
If you send me an email I'll let you know when they're ready. I'm not taking reservations/pre-orders.ckong wrote:That is good news. :D Is it possible to make a reservation list for the guys who were out of luck with the first batch?
I plan to have it for sale separately. It should be easy to install into all game console SCART cables.keropi wrote:any chance you can tell us about this 5v->12v "pump" inside the scart cable?
this can be VERY useful to systems like the sms and md that don't have 12v and default to 16:9 on tv sets...
Nothing too fancy. What's wrong with the LM1881?antron wrote:Tim, please let us know if you are doing something fancy in your comparator circuit that makes your c-sync better than what an lm1881 would give from c-vid.
I think he says if you got something better rather than it being bad on its ownviletim wrote:Nothing too fancy. What's wrong with the LM1881?antron wrote:Tim, please let us know if you are doing something fancy in your comparator circuit that makes your c-sync better than what an lm1881 would give from c-vid.
awesome then!!!!viletim wrote:I plan to have it for sale separately. It should be easy to install into all game console SCART cables.keropi wrote:any chance you can tell us about this 5v->12v "pump" inside the scart cable?
this can be VERY useful to systems like the sms and md that don't have 12v and default to 16:9 on tv sets...
right.EmperorZelos wrote:I think he says if you got something better rather than it being bad on its ownviletim wrote:Nothing too fancy. What's wrong with the LM1881?antron wrote:Tim, please let us know if you are doing something fancy in your comparator circuit that makes your c-sync better than what an lm1881 would give from c-vid.
Tim says it won't fit that way in the front loader and I don't think it would with the top loader or AV Fami either.leonk wrote:I can see that the PPU solders to the NESRGB. Does it makes sense to socket it? Will it have clearance in the system (toaster or top loader) if it's installed like this?
Actually, I wonder if he's referring to if you're keeping the bottom RF shielding and if it would fit with the PPU socketed if the RF shielding is removed (or if removing the RF shield is required to make the rgb board fit at all).Tim says it won't fit that way in the front loader and I don't think it would with the top loader or AV Fami either.
No, you can definitely make it fit, and leave the RF cover on too. Yes even with a socket.ApolloBoy wrote:Tim says it won't fit that way in the front loader and I don't think it would with the top loader or AV Fami either.leonk wrote:I can see that the PPU solders to the NESRGB. Does it makes sense to socket it? Will it have clearance in the system (toaster or top loader) if it's installed like this?
What about with the front loader? There's not that much vertical clearance in the front loader and I don't think a socketed NESRGB with a socketed PPU and RF shield would fit.acidhammer420k wrote:No, you can definitely make it fit, and leave the RF cover on too. Yes even with a socket.