PAL Xbox360 to Sync Strike -> 15Khz

[voona]

Hi Guys,

I have a PAL Xbox 360 a Sync Strike and a WG D9200 Multi Sync monitor with 9pin VGA cable.

Trying to get SCART RGB into my Mutisync @ 15 Khz but getting nothing on the screen what so ever?

Can someone confirm the pinouts on both sides to enable 15khz rgb

Cheers

Edit: On further investigation it says its outputting 15.5-16Khz @ 50 Hz but still no picture..
Edit 2: Pluged it into my TV without the SyncStrike and plugged in the SCART cable. Works as expected and i changed the settings to PAL-60. Now its outputting 15Hkz @ 60 Hz but still getting a black screen with some weird output at the bottom of the screen
Edit 3: Bridged pins 28 and 26 on the xbox 360 side and now im getting all blue output (no other colours)

[fagin]

I'm confused....

You can't connect a 9pin dsub to the sync strike as the sync strike is 15pin dsub.

You mention pins 28 & 26 on the xbox side? There are no such pins on a scart connector.

It's hard to work out your photo, but it looks like you have bridged audio with a voltage line..... not good. You shouldn't be bridging anything with an audio output.

The sync strike should only require R, G & B and Sync to function (and possibly a ground).

Take a much clearer picture and let's see if we can help you.

[voona]

I'm confused....

You can't connect a 9pin dsub to the sync strike as the sync strike is 15pin dsub.

You mention pins 28 & 26 on the xbox side? There are no such pins on a scart connector.

It's hard to work out your photo, but it looks like you have bridged audio with a voltage line..... not good. You shouldn't be bridging anything with an audio output.

The sync strike should only require R, G & B and Sync to function (and possibly a ground).

Take a much clearer picture and let's see if we can help you.

Sorry you are correct i meant 15pin dsub.

I dont mean the SCART side i mean the xbox 360 side apparently the mode jumpers are pin 22 to 24 and 26 to 28.

Those photo are exactly as i looks out of the box

Sorry for the confusion, ill get some more photos tomorrow

[Fudoh]

you certainly don't have to bridge any pins on your 360.

The cable seems faulty. I would start by removing anything you don't need, which are all the connections from and to Pin 8 and 16. And especially kill that bridge to Pin 6.

You need R, G, B, Sync (Pin 20), one GND Line, and Audio L/R. Possibly another GND for audio.

[fagin]

I dont mean the SCART side i mean the xbox 360 side apparently the mode jumpers are pin 22 to 24 and 26 to 28.

I don't know what you're specifically referring to.... what are the "mode jumpers".

[Fudoh]

probably bridges on the 360's output to force RGB or component, 15 or 31khz. Just like on the DC.

[fagin]

Yeah... I sort of assumed that maybe the case. Just never heard of it before on the 360. As has already been alluded..... it's something not needed when using a scart lead and it may sound like he has shifted the output to component?!

[voona]

After having another look at this today the provided scart cable (which works on normal TV's) makes no sense to me what so ever it has pins grounded where it shouldn't according to this:

http://www.hardwarebook.info/Xbox_360_A/V_SCART

and this:

http://www.hardwarebook.info/Xbox_360_A/V

Does anyone know if the position of those pins changes on PAL consoles?

I think I'm just going to have to de-solder the whole thing and start from scratch

[voona]

you certainly don't have to bridge any pins on your 360.

The cable seems faulty. I would start by removing anything you don't need, which are all the connections from and to Pin 8 and 16. And especially kill that bridge to Pin 6.

You need R, G, B, Sync (Pin 20), one GND Line, and Audio L/R. Possibly another GND for audio.

When you say 1 ground do you mean the ground pins for R,G,B all jumpered together?

Xbox / Scart
Red Ground 1 / 13

Green Ground 2 / 9

Blue Ground 6 / 5

[Fudoh]

The only real important GND line is the video ground on pin 17 of the scart connector. Get this bridged to Pin 4 to be sure, but you certainly don't need the RGB ground lines, as the Sync Strike PCB probably uses common anyway (meaning that all ground connections are touching each other at one point).

[voona]

The only real important GND line is the video ground on pin 17 of the scart connector. Get this bridged to Pin 4 to be sure, but you certainly don't need the RGB ground lines, as the Sync Strike PCB probably uses common anyway (meaning that all ground connections are touching each other at one point).

Hrmmm, the scart side of the cable has no connection on pin 17 and according to those links i posted above 17 is also blank?

Does anyone have a definitive SCART to X360 diagram ?

Thanks alot

[fagin]

Forget diagrams for the moment.

First off remove whatever jumpers you have installed (360 and or SCART)

You say that your 360 works fine on a normal TV with the SCART connection? If that is so, have you been able to connect another SCART RGB console (via the Sync Strike) to your D9200 sucessfully? If the answer to that is Yes then connect an external PSU to the Sync Strike and try again (I had to connect an external PSU to get a picture using a 360, which was quite strange as the Sync Strike light was on without the ext. psu).

Let us know.

[voona]

Forget diagrams for the moment.

First off remove whatever jumpers you have installed (360 and or SCART)

You say that your 360 works fine on a normal TV with the SCART connection? If that is so, have you been able to connect another SCART RGB console (via the Sync Strike) to your D9200 sucessfully? If the answer to that is Yes then connect an external PSU to the Sync Strike and try again (I had to connect an external PSU to get a picture using a 360, which was quite strange as the Sync Strike light was on without the ext. psu).

Let us know.

Im already using the external supply.

I have not tried any other consoles but using the 360 VGA cable works fine @ 31 Khz also my mame machine works fine at 15Khz using an Arcade VGA

[fagin]

OK so it's either your SCART lead or your sync strike that's the problem.

Remove all jumpers and bridges.

As asked previously, take some further pictures of your SCART wiring, so we can see if all appropriate pins are wired. The images need to be clear, so we can distinguish what is soldered to what pin.

[voona]

Ok added pics as requested. Got as much of the glue off as possible. This was how the cable was shipped. I have added or changed nothing

Also noteworthy there is a common ground being used on the blue / green wires and this is the same as the yellow / skin color also has a common ground

Further to this there is a bridge of what looks to be pins 22/24






Any help is appreciated.

[fagin]

*THAT* was how the cable was shipped? That soldering and wiring is aweful.


Just to confirm 100%.... if you plug this cable into a normal TV it works 100% and you're 100% sure it's giving a RGB image, not just composite!?

[voona]

*THAT* was how the cable was shipped? That soldering and wiring is aweful.


Just to confirm 100%.... if you plug this cable into a normal TV it works 100% and you're 100% sure it's giving a RGB image, not just composite!?

Yes that's how it was shipped. No bullshit. I have the soldering iron on my desk ready to go once i confirm what i need to actually do.

I have no idea if it was RGB or composite, how do i confirm? Going by the select pins it looks to be composite..

But it was working properly (with audio on a normal lcd tv with scart input)

[fagin]

Well.... if you can't tell the difference between a composite and RGB signal, you really are in the shit.

OK... here we go!

RGB SCART on the select pins should be:
PIN 18 not connected
PIN 22 connected to ground (PIN 24)
PIN 26 connected to ground (PIN 28)

Your SCART connector wiring looks suspect to me. See what the above does first and report back.

[voona]

Well.... if you can't tell the difference between a composite and RGB signal, you really are in the shit.

OK... here we go!

RGB SCART on the select pins should be:
PIN 18 not connected
PIN 22 connected to ground (PIN 24)
PIN 26 connected to ground (PIN 28)

Your SCART connector wiring looks suspect to me. See what the above does first and report back.

Dont you mean on the Xbox side ? I thought only the cable select pins were on the Xbox 360 side of the connector which is why you see that clusterfuck bridge on the xbox side (second photo) ?

[fagin]

Absolutely.... I'm referring to the xbox side for the select pins.

[voona]

Absolutely.... I'm referring to the xbox side for the select pins.

OK thanks, ill give that a crack when i get home. From memory thats what i did previously and it resulted in all blue on the screen.

Ill get some photos and let you guys know

[fagin]

Like I said... I suspect your wiring to your SCART connector is wrong as well. One step at a time though.

For reference to help me understand your wiring, can you tell me what pin number the blue wire is connected to on the 360 side?

[voona]

Like I said... I suspect your wiring to your SCART connector is wrong as well. One step at a time though.

For reference to help me understand your wiring, can you tell me what pin number the blue wire is connected to on the 360 side?

That is pin 1.

Pin 18 was already NC

jumper was already on 22/24 - see diagram above

I added a jumper to 26/28

Result:

[fagin]

OK..... I can see a few issues with the wiring and will explain back the next steps in a few hours.

[fagin]

OK....

1) On your SCART end you have a green and then a black wire adjacent to it.

Remove the black wire (disgard it for this test) and then move the green wire to where the black wire was. That should get the RED channel working.

2) On your 360 connector you have a blue wire on pin 1.

Remove the blue wire from pin 1 and solder it to pin 4. This should get the GREEN channel working.


Let us know how you get on.

[voona]

OK....

1) On your SCART end you have a green and then a black wire adjacent to it.

Remove the black wire (disgard it for this test) and then move the green wire to where the black wire was. That should get the RED channel working.

2) On your 360 connector you have a blue wire on pin 1.

Remove the blue wire from pin 1 and solder it to pin 4. This should get the GREEN channel working.


Let us know how you get on.

OK well i had to go down to the electrical store because the fuse popped in my soldering iron :/

After that ...




Only thing is im getting a buzz through my monitor, which it doesnt do with the VGA cable @ 31khz and no audio ^_^

In the 360 system menu it now says 'SCART' so i assume it was running composite previously ..

[fagin]

So just to confirm...... you did what I suggested and you now have a full colour RGB signal?

You're getting a buzz through your monitor or a buzz through your speakers (sorry, just want to be sure we're talking apples and apples)?

If it's a buzz through your monitor it will be because of your sync rate with the chassis. You maybe able to get rid of it by tweaking the hori and/or vert holds on the chassis / OSD.

[voona]

So just to confirm...... you did what I suggested and you now have a full colour RGB signal?

You're getting a buzz through your monitor or a buzz through your speakers (sorry, just want to be sure we're talking apples and apples)?

If it's a buzz through your monitor it will be because of your sync rate with the chassis. You maybe able to get rid of it by tweaking the hori and/or vert holds on the chassis / OSD.

Correct.

I still don't think the cable is 100% can you confirm if i need to remove anything else? Or can you tell me what i need exactly (R,G,B, Sync etc.)

Ill also need to change the audio pins because the sound inst working ..

I'm getting the buzzing through the monitor. Its jumping around between 15.2 - 16.5Khz and the top of the screen is shaking with some white lines ?

[fagin]

So just to confirm...... you did what I suggested and you now have a full colour RGB signal?

You're getting a buzz through your monitor or a buzz through your speakers (sorry, just want to be sure we're talking apples and apples)?

If it's a buzz through your monitor it will be because of your sync rate with the chassis. You maybe able to get rid of it by tweaking the hori and/or vert holds on the chassis / OSD.

Correct.

I still don't think the cable is 100% can you confirm if i need to remove anything else? Or can you tell me what i need exactly (R,G,B, Sync etc.)

Ill also need to change the audio pins because the sound inst working ..

I'm getting the buzzing through the monitor. Its jumping around between 15.2 - 16.5Khz and the top of the screen is shaking with some white lines ?

That sounds like your monitor doesn't like the sync coming from the sync strike. I can't comment on this as I have no experience of that specific monitor. As suspected the buzzing is down to a sync issue. Do you know if that monitor can accept a composite video signal for sync? Assuming it does, I would probably make a lead up to go from SCART to DSUB and try that.

[voona]

So just to confirm...... you did what I suggested and you now have a full colour RGB signal?

You're getting a buzz through your monitor or a buzz through your speakers (sorry, just want to be sure we're talking apples and apples)?

If it's a buzz through your monitor it will be because of your sync rate with the chassis. You maybe able to get rid of it by tweaking the hori and/or vert holds on the chassis / OSD.

Correct.

I still don't think the cable is 100% can you confirm if i need to remove anything else? Or can you tell me what i need exactly (R,G,B, Sync etc.)

Ill also need to change the audio pins because the sound inst working ..

I'm getting the buzzing through the monitor. Its jumping around between 15.2 - 16.5Khz and the top of the screen is shaking with some white lines ?

That sounds like your monitor doesn't like the sync coming from the sync strike. I can't comment on this as I have no experience of that specific monitor. As suspected the buzzing is down to a sync issue. Do you know if that monitor can accept a composite video signal for sync? Assuming it does, I would probably make a lead up to go from SCART to DSUB and try that.

Ok re-wired the audio - all good now..

So am i missing something here ? What is the purpose of the sync strike ? If just bypass it ? I thought i required the lm1881 circuit ? If i do the SCART to dsub what happens to the audio ?

http://www.wellsgardner.com/pdf/Spec/D9200_27_33.pdf

That is the monitor spec

On top of this i have an official xbox 360 vga cable is it possible to hack that to allow for the same output going straight to dsub?

Let me know. I think we are 99% of the way there !