Necronopticous wrote:There is a guy pretty local to me selling a 20L5 in "excellent" condition according to him. I may go take a look this weekend. I talked him down to $150 and he says he will go no lower. Would you guys consider that to be a reasonable price for this unit?
Why you lucky deuce, you.
I have to pay at least twice that and what I'll get most definitely wont be in "excellent" condition. Go for the L5, you wont regret it.
Just bought a PVM 2044QM there from someone in Germany. I'm hoping this one isn't as bad as the one I bought last month and had to get my money back on.
fagin wrote:Just taken the top of the unit off and the date stamp on the tube is 1987. It's 25yrs old!!!!
That is truly unbelievable as the image is outstanding.
They sure for shit don't make them like they used to and this alone is testament that the units age (and presumably fairly high hour usage) doesn't have to be a negative at all.
I'm honestly shocked.
Trinitrons from that era have a high failure rate actually. I've got this confirmed by several repairsmen after finding a dozen faulty tubes out of about 50 trinitron TVs I've inspected from the 1987-1991 era (AE-1 chassis). This is no doubt because of their age not because they're inherently bad, they just don't have as long a lifespan as other CRTs (Videocolor for instance).
Pyongyang wrote:Just bought a PVM 2044QM there from someone in Germany. I'm hoping this one isn't as bad as the one I bought last month and had to get my money back on.
fagin wrote:Just taken the top of the unit off and the date stamp on the tube is 1987. It's 25yrs old!!!!
That is truly unbelievable as the image is outstanding.
They sure for shit don't make them like they used to and this alone is testament that the units age (and presumably fairly high hour usage) doesn't have to be a negative at all.
I'm honestly shocked.
Trinitrons from that era have a high failure rate actually. I've got this confirmed by several repairsmen after finding a dozen faulty tubes out of about 50 trinitron TVs I've inspected from the 1987-1991 era (AE-1 chassis). This is no doubt because of their age not because they're inherently bad, they just don't have as long a lifespan as other CRTs (Videocolor for instance).
Excuse my ignorance but how can a tube "just fail"?
Pyongyang wrote:Just bought a PVM 2044QM there from someone in Germany. I'm hoping this one isn't as bad as the one I bought last month and had to get my money back on.
I'm considering doing an adjustment / cleaning up of my 2950q, as it has some geometry issues and I don't know if anyone in my immediate area can do that anymore. What is a good, inexpensive test image generator? Will I need to make adjustments on every input? I think the monitor options mentioned a blue mode as a possible substitution to getting one of those filter sheets - is that adequate? Would it be better to use the internal adjustments or the osd ones - does it matter?
so it's from the mid 90s? i'd be kind of crazy if hd has been a thing since the 80s. though i can imagine that it's a widescreen 15khz monitor with the so-called high reslution in lines (just like the bvm presented in this thread).
Zapf wrote:I'm considering doing an adjustment / cleaning up of my 2950q, as it has some geometry issues and I don't know if anyone in my immediate area can do that anymore. What is a good, inexpensive test image generator? Will I need to make adjustments on every input? I think the monitor options mentioned a blue mode as a possible substitution to getting one of those filter sheets - is that adequate? Would it be better to use the internal adjustments or the osd ones - does it matter?
However, if you're just on about basic geometry you'll need to connect all your consoles one by one and find a happy "framing" medium between your various consoles for underscan and/or overscan.
the 2950q should have an osd with width/height adjustments. i recommend just noting the best values for each consoles and adjusting it on the fly. just takes a couple seconds anyways. if you can get into the service menu i'd use that to adjust geometry instead of fiddling with the pots inside (if it even has any for geometry that is)
blog - scores - collection Don't worry about it. You can travel from the Milky Way to Andromeda and back 1500 times before the sun explodes.
fagin wrote:Just taken the top of the unit off and the date stamp on the tube is 1987. It's 25yrs old!!!!
That is truly unbelievable as the image is outstanding.
They sure for shit don't make them like they used to and this alone is testament that the units age (and presumably fairly high hour usage) doesn't have to be a negative at all.
I'm honestly shocked.
Trinitrons from that era have a high failure rate actually. I've got this confirmed by several repairsmen after finding a dozen faulty tubes out of about 50 trinitron TVs I've inspected from the 1987-1991 era (AE-1 chassis). This is no doubt because of their age not because they're inherently bad, they just don't have as long a lifespan as other CRTs (Videocolor for instance).
Excuse my ignorance but how can a tube "just fail"?
Various shorts in the electron gun assembly. Cathode to heater, Cathode to control grid, control grid to screen grid. Heater filament may break. Sometimes a rejuvenator can remove the short, but most times it can't or the short comes back after some time.
fagin wrote:
Excuse my ignorance but how can a tube "just fail"?
Various shorts in the electron gun assembly. Cathode to heater, Cathode to control grid, control grid to screen grid. Heater filament may break. Sometimes a rejuvenator can remove the short, but most times it can't or the short comes back after some time.
Never in all my life have I ever heard of this.... perhaps I've just been lucky.
I would however suspect and expect the PVM and BVM (even more) to be of much higher grade stock than regular consumer grade tubes.
Well, "excellent" condition turned into "component/RGB input does not work." After this discovery, he said he'd let it go for $70 but I'm not interested in a busted unit so I suppose I will be holding off until something else appealing pops up.
Bad geometry can always be adjusted, but buying a PVM with a bad RGB/Component input is like buying a race horse with a limp.
Too bad though, I was curious to know how well the L5 could handle a composite signal from the likes of the classic NES.
I would expect a professional display to have a pretty good comb filter but you never know. The 2530 I once had was abysmal with composite. Absolutely unwatchable.
Bah, humbug. Every person with a L5 for sale wants too much for it. I've found sellers wanting several hundred for ones that are only partially functioning.
Well, their loss. Their prices pushed me to opt for a 14L2 because the seller claimed it had almost no hours on it.
Now I'll have something to play on while taking my time looking for a mint L5 for a good price. Hell, if I like the size and quality I might just give up on the L5 altogether.
It has been ages since I saw a 14" CRT so I have a hard time imagining whether it is too small or just right for a desktop unit.
Once it arrives in a week or two I'll know. At about 200 CAD I can afford to make a mistake I feel. Most excited to see the composite performance.
14" is around the size of many standard old PC / Mac monitors. It's considerably smaller than a 17" monitor, which is a very reasonable size for close viewing, but at 240p resolutions it shouldn't matter much. I have noticed that overall cabinet dimensions (and probably weight too) of a newer 17" PC CRT is almost on a par with the older 15" (possibly some smaller Mac monitors) ones I have. I am not sure that this will hold for Sony pro monitors though.