XRGB-mini Framemeister

[Fudoh]

No, just RGBs and yes, it comes with a JP-Scart to MiniDin8 adapter.

[Seraphic]

If you use a SCPH-1050 cable from PlayStation 2, does it output RGBs or RGBHV?

[RGB32E]

If you use a SCPH-1050 cable from PlayStation 2, does it output RGBs or RGBHV?

It outputs RGBCv (Cv == Composite Video) for 240p/480i. If switched to progressive output (i.e. 480p) the output would be RGsB if RGB output is selected instead of component.

[Fudoh]

Did we have tests with different PS1 models on the Mini yet ? RGB32E, yours didn't work, right ? Did you have to chance to test it with an additional stripper yet or a mod to S-Video Luminance instead of composite video ?

Anyway, PS2 with Scart works fine on the Mini. You even eliminate all the noise that's present when using a RGB cable instead of a component cable.

[RGB32E]

Just tried my Saturn (Derby Stallion) and the image is massively over-scanned ... like it's hugely zoomed in. Is this something others have experienced?

I've encountered this before. My theory is that the mini doesn't like the sync. When I connected the particular Playstation through a XSYNC-1, the problem was resolved. Hence, the sync output on some revisions of some consoles needs to be buffered for the mini to display properly. So, you might need a LM1881 circuit or HEX buffer circuit to process the CSYNC/Composite Video.

[RGB32E]

Did we have tests with different PS1 models on the Mini yet ? RGB32E, yours didn't work, right ? Did you have to chance to test it with an additional stripper yet or a mod to S-Video Luminance instead of composite video ?

Anyway, PS2 with Scart works fine on the Mini. You even eliminate all the noise that's present when using a component cable instead.

One of my PS1 systems doesn't display without processing the composite video first (X-SYNC1 fixed it). However, using the same cable with a PS2 works just fine connected to the mini (via the included adapter).

The "High Grade" Hori D-Terminal cable produces some noise in the picture, so using a component cable doesn't guarantee there'll be no noise. I've had the opposite experience from you... RGB -> no noise, Component -> some noise.

YMMV!

[Seraphic]

Anyway, PS2 with Scart works fine on the Mini. You even eliminate all the noise that's present when using a component cable instead.

How would you connect PS2 to the Mini v.i Scart if the JP-Scart to MiniDin8 adapter/port only accpets RGBs?
RGB32E said the system would be sending RGBCv (is that the highest quality possible from a PlayStation 2?)
Also, I thought Scart could not pass 480p and only 240p/480i?

[darthcloud]

Anyway, PS2 with Scart works fine on the Mini. You even eliminate all the noise that's present when using a component cable instead.

How would you connect PS2 to the Mini v.i Scart if the JP-Scart to MiniDin8 adapter/port only accpets RGBs?
RGB32E said the system would be sending RGBCv (is that the highest quality possible from a PlayStation 2?)
Also, I thought Scart could not pass 480p and only 240p/480i?

SCART/RGB21 standard define only 480i but you are free to send anything you want on your cable as long the receiving device support it and the cable quality support that additional bandwidth. On XRGB3 you could switch the front RGB21 input to YPbPr and use the PS2 in YPbPr mode while using an RGB21 cable. Unfortunately you can't do that on the mini.

In this case for 240p & 480i game I would set the PS2 output to RGB and for anything equal or higher than 480p I would use YPbPr.

[Fudoh]

so using a component cable doesn't guarantee there'll be no noise. I've had the opposite experience from you... RGB -> no noise, Component -> some noise.

disregard my comment. You're right of course. Same as on the XRGB-3. RGB is noise-free, while component shows noise.

[Seraphic]

Anyway, PS2 with Scart works fine on the Mini. You even eliminate all the noise that's present when using a component cable instead.

How would you connect PS2 to the Mini v.i Scart if the JP-Scart to MiniDin8 adapter/port only accpets RGBs?
RGB32E said the system would be sending RGBCv (is that the highest quality possible from a PlayStation 2?)
Also, I thought Scart could not pass 480p and only 240p/480i?

SCART/RGB21 standard define only 480i but you are free to send anything you want on your cable as long the receiving device support it and the cable quality support that additional bandwidth. On XRGB3 you could switch the front RGB21 input to YPbPr and use the PS2 in YPbPr mode while using an RGB21 cable. Unfortunately you can't do that on the mini.

In this case for 240p & 480i game I would set the PS2 output to RGB and for anything equal or higher than 480p I would use YPbPr.

Interesting, did not know 480p was possible over Scart. But does Scart provide the best possible image for 240p/480i with analog sources from PS2 in RGB mode? On a side note, would there be any benefit to feed the Mini 240p/480i RGB to scaled to 480p then into the Optoma HD3000 for scaling to 1080p? And does anything else have an SCPH-1050 cable? I wonder if you also count 14-Pins at the Scart head (purchased mine used)?

so using a component cable doesn't guarantee there'll be no noise. I've had the opposite experience from you... RGB -> no noise, Component -> some noise.

disregard my comment. You're right of course. Same as on the XRGB-3. RGB is noise-free, while component shows noise.

You mean d-terminal, correct?

[Fudoh]

D-terminal or component, both the same.

But does Scart provide the best possible image for 240p/480i with analog sources from PS2 in RGB mode?

yes, it does.

On a side note, would there be any benefit to feed the Mini 240p/480i RGB to scaled to 480p then into the Optoma HD3000 for scaling to 1080p?

no, the Mini's 480p is softer than the XRGB-3's B1 output, so it's not suited for further upscaling using a HD3000.

And does anything else have an SCPH-1050 cable? I wonder if you also count 14-Pins at the Scart head (purchased mine used)?

I've got one. There're different revisions of the cable. The earliest ones had all 20 pins present (but not connected of course). You're fine with 14 pins present.

[Konsolkongen]

Speaking of PS2 I have been trying for the last few hours to add a LM1881 circuit to my PAL PS2 so I can get composite sync. However it does not work at all. I have even tried using a different LM1881 IC, but nothing.

Here is a picture if the mod:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e236/ ... C00252.jpg

Not my best soldering job, but that shouldn't be the problem. I cut the sync line between the 100nF and the white line. Only thing I can think of is that either there is something else still connected to Pin 6 on the AVout or the PS2's sync is just so strange that it doesn't work with the LM1881 :/

Ideally I would be installing this in a cable, but the RGB cable I have right now is just a generic component + composite combo cable I wired a scart socket unto. Therefore there is no 5V wire to power the circuit.

I have removed the circuit from the console and restored the sync line, and it's working fine like normal. But with composite video as sync

[darthcloud]

The circuit look fine, maybe you short something to ground? Put electrical tape to isolated the unused pin of the LM from the PCB. Put some tape over everything to avoid contact with the metal shield that go over the board.

I'm using an LM1881 in my modded SCPH-1050 cable I use with my PS2, so it work for sure.

[Konsolkongen]

I glued the LM1881 to the PCB so there was enough room between the pins and the board. And between the grounding plate is a thin layer of plastic, so it shouldn't be a problem. I also checked it thoroughly before i assembled it

EDIT: I assume I just fucked up somehow. I'll wait until I get a RGB cable

[fagin]

Assuming you have a solid ground and +5v feed, have you cut the track from the original sync feed to your multi out?

[Konsolkongen]

Yes I cut the trace on the underside of the board, but there must have been something else connected to it still. Nevermind as I found an original S-video cable in a box and since the plug on that had all pins, I just butchered it and made a RGB cable myself with build in LM1881

It works fine

[Konsolkongen]

I didn't put anything in the cable but the LM1881. The RGB picture is perfect, but if run component through it into the D-input on the Mini there is a lot of flickering as usual. This was also the case with the XRGB-3 but there it helped some by just adding 220uF caps to the Y, Pb, Pr lines. I want to do this in my cable as well but there isn't much room left in the cable. Would these work just as well as regular sized capacitors?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tantalum-Capaci ... 673wt_1165

EDIT: I don't suppose feeding a YPbPr signal into the RGB input of the Mini, or a RGB signal (colors only) into the D input of the Mini, for an extended period of time could cause any harm, could it?

I have my PS2 connected with RGBs to my Extron Matrix where output 1 is RGB to the Mini and output 2 is component. This makes everything a lot easier

[Fudoh]

By using a Sony scart cable and a breakout cable to component and into the Mini, I could NOT get rid of any of the noise, so the trick which worked great on the XRGB-3, doesn't work on the Mini.

[Konsolkongen]

Okay, so I guess it wouldn't make any difference if I added those 220uF's or not. That's alright

[darthcloud]

Received one US SNES today with serial#: UN314791014

And it's a 1CHIP-01 I'm glad the lower SN I've got is one of them. Since UN60 look rather rare.

The picture is just perfect to me seriously. It's just amazing :O



I'm using a regular SHVC-010 cable btw.

Seriously everyone need to get one of those SNES version.


All my system look fine now, with the exception of my Atari 7800 but their is no hope on that front I guess

[SGGG2]

All my system look fine now, with the exception of my Atari 7800 but their is no hope on that front I guess

You can get an RGB 7800 off ebay France (ebay.fr)

[darthcloud]

All my system look fine now, with the exception of my Atari 7800 but their is no hope on that front I guess

You can get an RGB 7800 off ebay France (ebay.fr)

I already have one RGB 7800 and it's the worst shit ever made on earth

My S-video mod look a lot better than this horrible hack Atari come with for the french market.

The TIA and Maria chip only output Chroma and Luminescence level anyway.

[SGGG2]

Ugh, I didn't know the French 7800 was a hack job like the NES. Glad I haven't bought one. Someone make an FPGA board replacement already...

[Fudoh]

Received one US SNES today with serial#: UN314791014

congratulations on the hit! Looks amazing! It will be more than tough for us europeans to get ahold of a proper US-NTSC unit. If you by any chance end with with another nice 1-chip US unit and mind selling it, let me know

[TurboCro]

Hi all,

I got addicted to this whole thread and ended up getting a Framemeister. I currently have connected: A Sega CDX via Japan RGB, SNES via s-video and Neo-Geo via component.

Sega CDX picture is pretty much perfect.
SNES and Neo-Geo are nice, but not as crisp as via RGB.

So I went and ordered some more RGB cables from retro console accessories.

My SNES cable came in today and when the picture is there its perfect. Unfortunately it drops out or shakes every so often (but much less with SF2: Turbo than Super Mario All Stars). My first SNES didn't work at all. My backup system had the above results. Any ideas?

I'll report the Neo-Geo results when the cable comes in.

*UPDATE*

My SNES is a UN101, does this mean I need to seek the holy grail that is UN60?

[RGB32E]

Received one US SNES today with serial#: UN314791014

And it's a 1CHIP-01 I'm glad the lower SN I've got is one of them. Since UN60 look rather rare.

The picture is just perfect to me seriously. It's just amazing :O



I'm using a regular SHVC-010 cable btw.

Seriously everyone need to get one of those SNES version.


All my system look fine now, with the exception of my Atari 7800 but their is no hope on that front I guess

SWEET!!! Glad I was able to point you in the right direction!

[darthcloud]

It's mostly perfect but in one SMW level (Donut plains 4) I do saw the ghosting issue some where speaking. And It's really disgusting. Did not get that in that level with my RGB-02 and GPM-02.

But it's only in that level that I saw that. Weird.

Played SMB1 and SMB3 in mario All-Star and I do not see ghosting either here.

Will see if the other I've bought do that once I get them.

I'm almost tempted to lift the pin on the 1CHIP and throw in the same amp I'm using with my N64 (JRC2297) just to see how it perform since I'm quite happy with the result I get with my PCE and N64.

[Plasia]

I notice solaris japan is selling the Xsync-1 + SC-500n1 combo.

Can someone tell me or link me to what the xsync-1 actually does? What are the inputs and the outputs? I'm struggling to find concrete information after some extensive searching. Also how would I hook it up to the xrgb-mini? Would it solve atomiswave RGBS by turning it into RGBHV? What can it accept on inputs, just 15khz?

I have a lot of different consoles (everything Sony/Sega/Nintendo/Microsoft 16bit onwards) and a few arcade units (MVS, CPS3, Atomiswave) that I want to hook up, and I think the xsync-1 would help with that?

[RGB32E]

I just hooked up my XRGB-3 after playing through the first stage of Super Castlevania IV.... I'm having second thoughts about the mini....

[Konsolkongen]

Why?