Modified CGA to VGA Scaler to accept clean sync RGB SCART

[hellbelly]

I'd like to connect some old Nintendo consoles that have SCART output (SNES, N64 and Gamecube).
Can i wire the SCART this way:

Code: Select all

GND <--- SCART ground
GND <--- SCART ground
VS (unconnected)
HS (unconnected)
S  <--- SCART pin-20
B  <--- SCART pin-7
G  <--- SCART pin-11
R  <--- SCART pin-15

?

Is the N64 modded to output RGB?

[eadmaster]

Is the N64 modded to output RGB?

yep, mine it is. It's an early Jap model and was modded for this purpose.
But the SNES and Gamecube are regular PAL consoles...

[emphatic]

Sorry if this has been asked and answered before, but I consider putting this type of scaler into a super gun I'm going to build.

* The menu buttons are momentary switches, right? | I plan to solder wires to each button to use 24 mm push buttons on my case
* Is the Auto setting good when it comes to centering the image and fill the output resolution? | I'll be using 480p
* Do I need a sync cleaner at all since I'll be using JAMMA boards exclusively? | I have a viletim unit should I want to run my PS2

Cheers.

[Fudoh]

Do I need a sync cleaner at all since I'll be using JAMMA boards exclusively?

it isn't a must, but you're on the safe side when using one. It can solve sync issues with certain jamma boards.

[Smashbro29]

I've been told to move my question here:

So I began writing http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?th ... ng.150057/ in hopes of finding out for myself/helping others who are struggling with this and I got a ton of help and some very patient people explained a lot to me and I ordered everything there, (I know one or two things are wrong right now, gonna do one big edit when I have it 100%)

So here's what I have now. I have a Sync Strike with a SCART cable from one system (can't find a switch yet) and my PS2 hooking into the scaler via component cables, so far here's what happens:

PS2: small dots in picture (see picture)
SNES: cuts in and out (the SS is properly powered as the N64 doesn't have this problem)
N64: DARKNESS!!! No amount of tweaking on the scaler setting changes this.
Genesis: video cuts in and out. Rarely makes it past the generic licensing screen oddly enough you still get the music.
Saturn: PERFECT



It also seems as if each console is going to need specific settings to fill the screen/look it's best which seems annoying.

[Zapf]

We already answered your question about the n64 in the srk thread - you have no amp.
Genesis: What model is it.

[Smashbro29]

We already answered your question about the n64 in the srk thread - you have no amp.
Genesis: What model is it.

Yeah, you did after I wrote the post in the wrong thread. My mistake. I have a model 2 Genesis.

[Beaps]

Hi All,

I am new to soldering etc & have just got one of these scalers.

Would someone be able to make me the RGB scart input device for a fee.

Let me know

[Zapf]

Hi All,

I am new to soldering etc & have just got one of these scalers.

Would someone be able to make me the RGB scart input device for a fee.

Let me know

Bencao's sync strike is available on his website Here. It will let you connect an rgb scart input to this scaler. Check his thread on this forum as well.

edit: alternative available on ebay: Here

[fagin]

Zapf,
The Sync Strike does not work with all of my consoles.... my SNES gives no image (seems OK for everything else though) with the Sync Strike, but works 100% with my own sync cleaner (as per this thread).

There are caveats so beware.

[Zapf]

Zapf,
The Sync Strike does not work with all of my consoles.... my SNES gives no image (seems OK for everything else though) with the Sync Strike, but works 100% with my own sync cleaner (as per this thread).

There are caveats so beware.

I just assumed he had missed the sync strike for some reason.

[Beaps]

Struggling to get hold of the LM1881 IC.

Is it the same as the LM1881N IC????

[matrigs]

yes

[bencao74]

@fagin : For the SNES I worked out a solution with 220 ohm attentuation for each line on the RGB Scart lead. I was quite sure that the gbs8220 scaler couldn't handle the signals and that it is independent from using a sync cleaner. I`m using LM1881N DIP.

[fagin]

@fagin : For the SNES I worked out a solution with 220 ohm attentuation for each line on the RGB Scart lead. I was quite sure that the gbs8220 scaler couldn't handle the signals and that it is independent from using a sync cleaner. I`m using LM1881N DIP.

Does the Sync Strike do "something" to the RGB signals on the current revision then?

[bencao74]

Nothing, Just forwarding.

[Beaps]

I bought the list of items required to make the sync RGB Scart.

Can you post some more pics of the actual PCB you created with the chip mounted on as I am a little confused please.

Thanks

[fagin]

What do you need to know... post 1 on this thread really does tell you everything.

[Beaps]

Sorry I am really new to this but keen to learn.

This is what I have done so far.

[fagin]

Don't take offence to this but I assume you can't read a wiring schematic?

Your answer will determine how I try to explain it all.

[Beaps]

No offence taken mate I have never done this before

Thanks for your patience fagin

[fagin]

OK...

Here is the schematic vs your board:





Firstly remove the legs on the IC you don't need (7 & 5)

Now lets take each IC pin circuit board row:

Pin 1 - OK
Pin 2 - OK apart from the fact you need to cut the track between the two capacitor legs - else you will have a short
Pin 3 - OK
Pin 4 - OK - although the wire is correctly placed you really need a smaller gauge
Pin 8 - OK
Pin 7 - Remove
Pin 6 - Resistor looks OK (but again cut the tracks between the two resistor legs - else you will have a short)
Capacitor is wrong - make sure it spans the same vertical holes as the resistor (then cut the tracks in between the two capacitor legs)
You then need to bridge each pair of legs, so left capacitor leg bridge to left resistor leg and then right capacitor leg bridge to right resistor leg
This will then give you a parallel connection of these two components as the schemetic instructs (stacked)
If you look at this image (right hand side of it) you will see how I have bridged the two component tracks.


Pin 5 - Remove

Connect all the rest of the wires up as per post 1 and you should be good to go.

[Beaps]

Fantastic mate, it seems a lot more clearer now.

If you don't mind before I solder them in place I will upload 2 more pics using these new instructions

Thanks again

[Beaps]

here we go like this?








Any good?

[Beaps]

Or Like this?

[fagin]

Either way will work.

[Beaps]

Scaler turned up today, allot smaller than I thought, looks pretty neat.

The scaler never came with a power supply any links to where I can get a cheap one from. Also where do i wire the power to underside of the scaler for my RGB board?

Thanks

[fagin]

I doubt you will get one that cheap as it needs to be at least 1.5amp.

Maplins do multi voltage ones with this kind of amp output, the ones that have multi connector types as well (that's what I use for this scaler).

With regard to the power connection on the PCB....

Centre of the connector is positive, so turn the board over and you need to use the rear solder point for +

[Beaps]

Oh OK I think I got one of those, just set the slider to 5v & put the correct end on and that should be it.

Here is the underside of the PCB. I have highlighted what I thought you said I need to solder the power to the RGB PCB, is that the correct one?



Thanks again buddy

[fagin]

Wrong one... rear of the connector, which in that image is the bottom joint.