Cave SH3 games that have no hiscore table erase.

[kernow]

It's pretty annoying buying a used board and not being able to initialise it fully. Do you think there is a hidden developer code for doing so? Maybe the mame guys have found something (christ why did I bring that up). It seems completely dumb to not think about it when developing the game. How hard would a clear hiscore table option be to put in? Not that difficult if you're able to set the rest of the settings back to default.

It sucks that the only way is probably reflashing the board, how about glitching it somehow? turning it off half way through a save and corrupting the eprom data? (I can't remember if its stored in eprom, flash or nvram on CV1000).

I'd bet my sexuality theres a hidden code to do it, you can demonstrate it on mame quite easily and make it re-init as if it was a new board, surely this can be performed on real hardware too.

Normal boot


Initialising on boot as if it was a new board


Cmon tech bods, someone must know something

[undamned]

Get good enough to beat those scores.
-ud

[kernow]

Get good enough to beat those scores.
-ud

Yeah, I guess Good luck with that kern.

[rtw]

CAVE CV1000B/D boards store their score in two ways:

. In the RTC/EEPROM (RTC-9701JE)
. In the U2 FLASH chip

The simplest one is the RTC. Buy one, desolder the old one and replace it. The initialization should commence.

The other method is a bit trickier, it works on the assumption that the EEPROM has a checksum. This may be verified by modifying the NVRAM file and seeing if you get a re-initialize.

When the board powers up the EEPROM is read and checksum verified. If you at this point destroy the data stream by pulling the data line of the EEPROM to GND through a resistor you might fool the code into thinking that the EEPROM is corrupted and force a reinitialize. Pin 9 is data out, try it and tell us how it goes

[kernow]

Scary.

Isn't the RTC battery driven? Mind you a lot of the boards don't even have a battery so maybe not. It's a pity it's not that simple.

[Drachenherz]

[idc]

Remove battery. Short pin 9 (DO) to pin 12 or 13 (GND) and power on. Wait until EEPROM test, watch for the word "INITIALIZE" and remove the resistor.

This works, and the game will re-initialise the EEPROM.

[kernow]

woo, now all I need is balls to try it

[rtw]

Remove battery. Short pin 9 (DO) to pin 12 or 13 (GND) and power on. Wait until EEPROM test, watch for the word "INITIALIZE" and remove the resistor.

This works, and the game will re-initialise the EEPROM.

Good suggestion to remove the battery, may I be so bold to ask the suggested value of the resistor ?

[kernow]

You think a piece of wire would work ok too?

I think it'd be cool if someone made a plastic thing to fit over the U2 chip that had metal contacts to touch those two pins. A man can but dream.

[idc]

Good suggestion to remove the battery, may I be so bold to ask the suggested value of the resistor ?

100 Ohm did it for me.

[Dave_K.]

Will this work across all Cave SH3 boards or only certain ones? Checksum/initialization looks to be different between Yagawa games and IKD games.

100 Ohm did it for me.

Which board(s) did you successfully do this on?

[kernow]

Don't most of the yagawa SH3 have a half decent init function in the test menu? I think most you can erase scores on.

[Dave_K.]

Ah, you're right. It's only IKD SH3 games that lack an initialize score function.

[kernow]

Wonder if it's all the IKD ones or theres some that do have it.

[idc]

Will this work across all Cave SH3 boards or only certain ones? Checksum/initialization looks to be different between Yagawa games and IKD games.

Which board(s) did you successfully do this on?

This was done on Espgaluda 2, with great success and rapturous applause, in order to reset the ranking tables.

It should also work on Mushihime-Sama for the same purpose, although I've been unable to confirm in practice as I don't have this PCB).

[Dave_K.]

Mushihemesama Original scoreboard before:



Mushihemesama Original scoreboard after:


Thank you rtw + idc! (And to kernow for starting this thread.)

BTW: this did not re-lock ultra mode, and I also did not remove the battery.

[rtw]

BTW: this did not re-lock ultra mode, and I also did not remove the battery.

The battery is just a precaution, since it powers the RTC part of the rtc-9701 you don't want to short it.

If ultra did not re-lock I am guessing you have the 1 dot version ? Would you mind checking ?

http://www.world-of-arcades.net/Cave/Mu ... isions.htm

[kernow]

@davek did you use a resistor or piece of wire? I've got the datasheet for the chip but it'd sure be nice to have the actual photo from the cv1000 board labelled with the correct pins to touch. Can't say I'm not tempted. mmh.

[SuperPang]

I'm tempted too, particularly on my bugfixed Mushi.

[kernow]

[rtw]

This right?

NO!

That's the wrong chip (please remove your post to avoid confusion)!

Go here: http://www.world-of-arcades.net/Cave/Ha ... rdware.htm

Look at the picture at the bottom, mouse over the device at U10

[kernow]

Mouse over doesn't seem to work for me on there, but I have now found it sorry about that.

edit: works now.

[rtw]

Or...

[kernow]

It's safe enough right? no real risk of killing the board if you're careful.

[Dave_K.]

@davek did you use a resistor or piece of wire?

I used a 97 ohm precision resistor that I had laying around. US Dime used as perspective...about as big as Roosevelt's ear.



I put one end in the Gnd pin of the missing serial connector to make it easier to focus on placing the other end on pin 9.

It's safe enough right? no real risk of killing the board if you're careful.

These parts are tiny, and pin 10 is vcc, so do this mod at your own risk! But for the overly cautious I used an exacto knife to place small squares of electrical tape to try isolating pin 9.

If ultra did not re-lock I am guessing you have the 1 dot version ?

Ah yes, this PCB is the bug fix version (single dot).

[SuperPang]

I have to send some stuff off to VectorGlow in the new year so I might see if he'll do this on a couple of PCBs for a few quid extra. Too scared

[kernow]

That serial/RJ45 connector isn't a hole on mine, just a solder plug, just tried it with some wire and it didn't work so I'll have to wait until I get a resistor I guess.

[kernow]

Yay! initialised, removed the battery, and just used a thin piece of wire and taped up the other pins. woot.

Taping up the other pins to isolate the pin you want was a great idea.

[Korszca]

Used U13 and the GND point Dave_K. used and it worked on my Mushihimesama board. Used a piece of plain ol' wire.
I did lose Ultra mode though. Unlocking it again worked. I have the original no dot revision.